
mm 



il-; 



mMm 







iM O - \. 



i. 



^m' 



J'" 

'y 



iJ-jl 






1.^1^ 




7^ 



ADVERTISEMENTS. 



Dcsls'natcfl Depository and Financial Ag:ent of the United Sltates, 
and Appro ve<l Depository for U. S. Disbnrning Officers. 



THE 



First ITational Bank of Omaha, 

CORNER FARNHAM AND 13TH STREETS. 
Oldest Banking Establishment in Nebraska ! 

Successors to Kountze Bros., 

Established in 1856. 

Orgciui^edi am a National Bank, Any. 26 f 1863, 

Capital and Profits, April 6, 1868, over $200,000. 
Deposits, April 6, 1868, $1,719,974 45. 



OFFICERS AND DIRECTORS: 



E. CREIGHTON, President. A. KOUNTZE, Cashier. 

HERMAN KOUNTZR, Tice- President. H. W. YATES, Ass't Cashier. 



CONBTECTING BAMKS. 

COLORADO NATIONAL BANK, 

LUTHER KOUNTZE, President; 1^ ^, 

CHARLES B. KOUNTZE, Cashier ; / ^^nver, Lol. 

ROCKY MOUNTAIN NATIONAL BANK, 

HERMAN KOUNTZE, President : • n . i n* r- i 
J. H. GOODSPEED, Cashier : , Central City, Col. 

Kountze Bros. & Co., Bankers, Cheyenne, D. T. 

KOUNTZE Bros., E. Creiqhton, J. S. Casement, 

D. T. Casement, H. W. Yates, Will. B. Bbrger, 



turner's guide to the rooky MOUNTAINfi. 




ADVERTISEMENTS. 3 

Reuben iMicKEi,. ,r 

AT T ^ , T ^ , , Mahlon Head. 

MKMvEI. cV^ HEAD, 

JEFFERSON, GREENE CO., IOWA. 

made, Trompt Personal aUentio?i qirenio 

the paymeni of 2'axes, redeeming lands 

sold for J axes, buying and Sellina 

Jieal JEJslale, I'urmshi7i(/ Ab- 

sir acts. Collecting Claims, 

dc.f d'Cy in 

areene Carroll, Crawford, Guthrie, Audubon, 

bhelby, Calhoun, Sac, and all the North- 

V^estern Counties of the State. 

J-ifth National Bank.. 

Messrs. Jay Cooke k Co ' " Chicago, III. 

First. National Bank ^^^ York. 

R. F. Allen, Esq.. " Davenport, Iowa. 

John White, Esq.. " Dee Moines, " 

.^ " Oskaloosa, '■ 



yi, McHExNRY, 

County Treasurer and County Surveyor * **''^^^J"; 

Notary Public. 

MORRIS McHEITRY & CO 

5 






IDEIbTZSOIsr, 

Cr aw/or d Counij, - . IOWA. 

1^** Will pay taxes throughout the State. 

oh,Tl"?" ;"7'^''/''^*™*^ »'■ Ti'le : buy and sell LANDS on Commi«i„„ ; 
ob,a,„Ia,cm. f„r Government Lancb; Survey and K.an.ine Lands, in per- 
son, .an.l g,vc description of the same, with Maps, sho.ving the whole 
County, and ,he d.stanee of the Land from the County Seat, Timber, i^l 

400,000 Acres choice Prairie and Timber Land for Sale, at from $1.75 to 
•pio per acre. 



ADVERTISEMENTS. 



CAMIAGE & WAGON FACTORY 

— OF—; 

The Studebaker Bros. Manufacturing Co. 

A portion of which is represented on another page, is located near the St 
&n«r'' f-f^'^''^'?}^^^ to the Michigan Southern and Northern Indiana 
Railroad eighty-five miles east of Chicago. It was established in 1852, and 
nntln'f ^r^'^'M^ "' manufactory of the kind in the West. Indiana^s 
noted tor the excellent quality of its timber-particularly the oak found upon 
he openings of the northern portion of the State is equal if not superior to 
chisiver Connecticut and New York. This Timber we use ex 

Attention is called to the fact that we use 

®AE¥®s^^ g^sawi ®w@&¥ wmmm&t 

Which is far superior to any other known to the trade. Also, 

c3-R.A.3srT's SKiFTinsro- rail 

by which a Buggy-Top can be almost instantly removed, either for conve- 
nience or in case of accident. conve- 

Our wagon is known as the celebrated " Studebaker Wagon," and our shoD 
IS the only one in the country where the ^ 

SLOPE SHOULDERED SPOKE IS USED. 

LV- Thimhir^f "'' w^"" "^"^ '^^'!^'.' ^" ""'^^ S^^^ * warranty that those on 

carr;^Fortrmmdr:d ! '"^ " '"^^ ^'^P*"^ ^^ generaf farm use) will 

We have a Branch Factory and Repository at St. Joseph, Mo where can 

STOTTY PTTV ic ^- B. VVAITE, 

bShTm^'texas...::....;;:;:;;;;; •"''• Yr'S?!*^ JS^- 

CHATTANOOGA, TENN RDRI P K WTT papS' 

KANSAS rTTV \jn rvUBLL lV WILFORD. 

LEXINGTOT ' ^' P""'^ "^KOS., PRATT & CO. 

LITTLE PINPV " ff-'- ARMSTRONG. 

AKrfANWs:;:,:.v:.v.:v;;::::; '''''''''-"m''cco7b\'o^ 

MINNeIpolis, MINN Z '™™ L'i*??n\''f;^- 

HELENA, TEXAS :^:zzz::::::::i}^-i^^^tZ 

»t. Joseph, Mo. South Bend. Ind. 



LBTJ '« 



ttthnp:r's guide to the rocky mountains. 

STATESMAN 



remiiiM 





MANUFACTURED BY 



JACOB Sl^RAYER & CO., 



mm 



^Mix> _^'«a,i 




We are now manufacturing the above celebrated Drill, with eight and ten 
hoes, double rank, with grass seed sower and surveyor, all warranted to sow 
wheat, rye, oats, barley, timothy and clover seed, and to be quickly regu- 
hited to sow any quantity per acre that may be desired. 

This Drill has taken many premiums at State and County Fairs, and 
what is even better, has stood the test of experience for the last eight years. 
It has been several times improved since the first Patent was issued, and 
now claims to be as near perfection as any other article of Agricultural Ma- 
chinery. The Drill is 

ALL THAT FARMERS CAN WISH. 

Try one and you will have no reason to regret it. Drills are delivered on 
board ihe cars at South Bend, free of charge. 

Those desiring Drills should apply to our Agents, or write to the Mauu- 
faoturers in time. Delaying until seeding time may result in being too late 
for the season. 

For prices see our Agents, or write to the Manufacturers. 

JACOB STRAYER Sc CO. 



ADVERTISEMENTS. 



For Fort Benton and the Cold Mines ! 



JTIL " ■ 

North-West Transportation 

LINE OF FIRST (JiASS STEAMERS 

From Sioux City to Fort Benton 

In coiiuectiou with the Cliicago and Noi'tli-AVesteru Railway, and iormiug a 
direct, expeditious and cheap line of travel and transportation from the East 
to the Gold Mines of Montana. 

The boats of the Company for 1868 consist of the Dkkr Lodce, 1>krtha, 
North Alauama, Lacon and Fanny Barker, all of which are first class in 
every respect. For the business of 18G9 five other boats will be added to 
the line, and all possible facilities will be afforded for the dispatch of the 
rapidly increasing trade between tlie East and the Mountains. 

It is the intention of this Company to make four trips for each boat dur- 
ing each season. 

Passengers and Shippers will save lUOO miles' river navigation and fif- 
teen days' time by taking this line. 

Take the Chicago and North-Western Railway from Chicago to Missouri 
Valley Junction ; thence the Sioux City and Pacific Railroad to Sioux City, 
where a boat is always in readiness to receive Freight and Passengers. 

The boats of this line insure A 1, and at least two per cent, insurance is 
saved over St. Louis boats. 

For information and rates apply at the Oftice of the Company, Sioux 
City, Iowa. 

C. I>. Woolwortli, Joab Lawrence, 

Secretary. I'r«'s't N.-W. T. Co. 

Sum. De Bow, 

Geu. Ageut. 



turner's guide to the rocky mountains. 



JOHN (;. RTRDSP]LL & SONS, 

Patentees and Manufacturers of BIEDSELL'S 




COMBINED CLOVER SEPARATOR. 

Tho above ongraving illustrates om* of tlie oroalest lal>oi -saving uiaciiines 
of our (lay. Unlike many machines for rubbing out the clover seed after the 
heads are gathered, this niacliine takes the clover as it is ordinarily cut witli 
a machine, threshes the liead from tlio straw, and rubs out the seed at one 
operation, and witli little breaking of straw. 

Send for circulars. Orders solicited and letters promptly answered. 

MURRAY, BAKER & WALKER, 

FOUNDRY & MACHINE SHOP, 

Nen.!* the Railway Station, 

FORT WAYNE, INDIANA. 



All kinds of Machinery made to order and put up. Steam Kngines 
manufactured with all the most modern improvements and appliances. Special 
attention jtaid to tlie erection, extension and repairs of Gas Works. Ksti- 
mates, plans and specifications made for Gas and Hydraulic Works, and con- 
tracts made for the erection of the same at the very lowest rates. 

As to Gas Works, reference is made to South Bend, Indiana, Aurora. 
Illinois, and several other places. 

Our Mr. Walker, who is thoroughly acquainted with the business, makes 
Gas engineering and construction a specialty. 



KZRA XII.LARD, Pres't. 



ADVERTISEMENTS. 

i. H. niLLARD, Cafih. 



A. D. WYHA!!, Att't Caib 



- iiiii iiriiiiL iiii, 

Cor. Douglas and Thirteenth Sts., Omaha, Nebraska. 

CAPITAL, 8100,000 : AUTHOKIZED CAPITAL. $.'>00,000. 

FINANCIAL AGENT FOR THE UNITED STATES, 

This liank deala in Government Bonds, Vouchers, Exchange, (Jold Coin, and makes the pur- 
thase of Bullion and Gold Dust a leading branch of its business. 
Letters of Credit and Drafts issued on all parts of Europe. 



The Oldost Established Banking House in Nebraska. 



;(i&l@w fe 



»?) 



UKALKRS IN 



&olfl Dust, Coin, Bullion, Foreip anfl Doinestic Exchanp, 

AND EUROPEAN PASSAGE TICKETS, 



OlMAHA. 



ivebi*a.sk:a. 



jiiif*iif«w 



I)Kal>:ks; i>r 



BOOTS & SHOES AT WHOLESALE ONLY, 

LEATHER AND FINDINGS, BELTING, HOPS, ic, 
Pioneer Block, 1S2 Farnham, St., 

OMAHA, NEB. 

jm-H/ff/tetf pr/ce pa/d for 7/t(les, ^eUn, Wool, Furs, •f-r.'^t* 



OMAHA: ^: &. f^r'^f «^°" 
CHICAGO: J; S. Sharp. 



R. H. WlI.LIS, 

L. M. ANDRESON. 



KSTABLISHED 



WILLIS & ANDRESON, 

Importers of 

WINES, BRANDIES AND GINS IN BOND AND FREE; 

Wliole»«ale dealers iu 

Ture Bourbon Co., K'y, Copper JDistilled Whisky, 

SMOKING & CHEWING TOBACCOS, CIGARS & PIPES, 

soo &: 511 1^^ o xj R mc 1^: N 1" ti S^riiKlCX, 

Bet. Farnham and Douglas, Omaha, Neb. 



10 turner's guide to the rocky mountains. 

Stationers, Booksellers and News Dealers, 

515 Thirteenth St., Omaha, Neb. 
STEFHENS & WILCOX, 



Wiiulesale aii«i Ketsiil Dealers in 



if irLE i Fiiif ill 



Pi 



Carpets, Oil Cloths and Matting, 

NOTIONS, INDIAN GOODS, ROBES AND PURS. 

We invite the attention, of the Trade. 

239 Farnham St., Omaha, Nebraska. 

I^^IS^KIJS G HOUSE OE 

A. K. IKTELLZiS, 

Commercial Block, Cor. of Eighth and Story Streets, 

MONTANA, BOONE COUNTY, IOWA. 

J^usinoss Notes Discounted, Notes, Bills and Drafts 
Collected. Gold and Silver Bought. 

Jte^ Dealer in Exchange and Government Securities, ^%^ 

Real Estate and Collection Office, 

MAGNOLIA, HARRISON CO., IOWA. 

Lands Bought aii<l Sold, Farms and Houses Rented, Money Invested, 
Taxes Paid, Abstracts Furnished, and Titles Investigated. 

Qood Selections of Land Constantly on Hand and for Sale. ..JEI 



ADVERTISEMENTS. 11 

F. 1». TliOMPSON, T. C. McCALL, 

Attorney at Law. Keal Kstate Agent. 

McCALL & THOMPSON, 

Law, Real Estate and CoHectiog Agents, 

ITEVADA, STORV CO., lO'WA. 

Will practice in District Court ol" Story ami adjoining; counties, and proiuijily attend to making 
Collections, invt-stigatiug Titles, and payin;,' Taxes. Will buy and sell Land on Commission, in 
all the Centra! and Western Counties of Iowa, and transact Notarial business and Conveyancing 
with care and dispatch. Will also attend to drocuring Hack Hay, Bounty, Pensions, and all 
other (laiiiis against the tiovcrninent. 

AttorEeys anfl Coiselors at Law, anfl Real Estate Apnts, 

MARSIIAT.LTOWN, MAUSUALL COUNTY, IOWA. 

Will practice in the Supreme and District Courts of Iowa, buy and sell Real 
Kstjite, Pay Taxes, Examine Titles, Make Abstacts, &c., &c. 
Office Over First National Bank. 

H. E. .1. IJOARDMAN. TIMOTHY MROWN. 



HOWARD <t JOHNSON. 

Attorneys at Law, Real Estate Apnts, an! Notaries PiiWic, 

BELLE PLAINE, BENTON COUNTY, IOWA, 

Will practice in the several courts of the State, buy and sell real estate, ex- 
amine and perfect titles, pay taxes, &c., kc. 

M. Howard. E. S. Johnson. 



Wholesale and Setnil Dealer in 



Clothing and Dry Goods, 

* SIOTJX OITY, IOWA. 

Wholesale anrl Hetail Dealers in 

Shelf Hardware, Woodenware, Stoves, 

IRON, STEEL. CARPENTERS', BLACKSMITH AND MINERS' TOOLS, 

REAPKRS, MOWERS. THRESHIXO MAC^HINES, AC, AC. 

Also, Manufacturers of Tin, Copper and Ironware, &c., &c. 
CORNER 17TH AND O'NEIL STREETS, CHEYENNE, WYOMING TER. 

Also, 40 Lirimkk Street, Dknykr, Colorado Territory. 



12 



TURNER S GUIDE TO THE ROCKY MOUNTAINS. 



T. G. TURNER, 



SOUTH BEND, IND. 



mMMMi^ & m&. M€»BltJi8 



(Successors to Dunlop, Sewell & Spalding,) 




gbtt.#- 



■^■^—r - MM 



-gW^ 



ttS; £ia&«> ^fi^eiel, 






»jsm^4 



i 



■«> 



^z^-rA/^/^r^ 



TURNERS' GUIDE 



FROM THE 



LAKES TO THE ROCKY MOUNTAINS, 



VIA THE CLEVELAND AND TOLEDO, MICHIGAN SOUTHERN AND NOKTHEKN 

INDIANA, CHICAGO AND NOllTH-WESTERN, AND UNION PACIFIC 

KAILROADS; ALSO, FROM MISSOURI VALLEY, VIA THE 

PACIFIC AND SIOUX CITY RAILROAD, AND THE 

STEAMBOATS OF THE NORTH-WEST 

TRANSPORTATION COMPANY ; 

IISrCIjXJlDIINa^ A. 

Historical aM Statistical Account of ttic Railroads of the 

COUNTRY, TOWNS AND CITIES 

^L03SrC3- THE I^OXJTE, 
AND NOTICES OF THE CONNEGTINa ROADS AND ROUTES. 



/ytrr 



, v/zti^V^-T^-^ 



r»UJBLISlIEI> BY 

T, G. cfe C. E. TURNER, 

South Bend, Ind. 




Chicago : 
SPALDING & LaMONTES, PRINTERS, 

138 LAKE 8TREKT. 

1868. 



^T 



Entrrcd according to Act of Congress, 

Bv T. G. c^- C. E. TURNER, 

II the Clcik's Office of" tl\e District Court of the United Statc^, for the 

Northern District of Illinois. 



' 1 



r-q^ 



PREFACE. 



in writing a book like the one herewith presented I am 
aware of the impossibility of pleasing all, or of doing full 
justice to every section or place which comes under review. 

At most I can only claim an imperfect accomplishment <»f 
the work now submitted to just and candid criticism. The 
labor and annoyance attending a performance like this can 
only be fiilly appreciated by those who undertake a similar 
ettbrt, and none but tliose can undei'stand the sincerity of 
that gratitude which I feel towards the many gentlemen wh<> 
have voliinteered aid and sympatli3\ The most that I can 
claim is that I liave faithfully and honestly endeavored to 
U'ive such facts as shall be of advantage to the general public, 
and to those individual places to which inv line of travel and 
remark has bronght me. I take this opportunity to express 
my thanks to all those generously disposed persons who have 
given me much needed assistance. 

T. G. TU^tNEP..^ 

Simth Bend, Imliiiua, 
October, 186S. 



TABLE OF CONTENTS, 



1. — Historical Sketch, etc. - - - - - 
U.—Kailioads : Their History, etc. - - - ■ 
in.— Mauufactures at the West, - - - - 
IV.— Capabilities of the West— General View, 
v.— The Guide— Cleveland to Chicago, 

VI. '« " Chicago to the Missouri, 

VII. " " The Missouri to the Mountains, 

Vlll.— " " The Missouri Valley— Conclusion, 



PAGE. 

17 

- 33 
50 

- 59 
65 

- 122 
197 

- 234 



NDEX TO ADVERTISEMENTS. 



Ames, Iowa, 
Boonesboro", Iowa, - 
Blairstown, " 
Belle riaiuc, " 
Chicago, 111., 
Clinton, lown, 
Carroll City, Iowa, 
Council Blufls, " 
Cedar Rapids, " 
rheyenne, Wyoming Tcr., 

Denison, Iowa, 

Dunlap, " - 

Fort Wayne, Ind., 

Fremont, Neb , 

Jefferson, Iowa, 

Lyons, " 

Logan, " 



207 

268-9 

262 

11, 263 
258 
259 
270 

279-81 

- 260-1 
1 1 , 288 

- 3, 271 

271 

8 

285-7 

3, 269-70 

260 

- 272-3 



Montana, Iowa, - 
Missouri Valley, Iowa, 
Marshalltown, " 
Moiugona, " 

Magnolia, " 

Nevada, " 

Notre Dame, ind., 
N. W. Transportation Co., 
Omaha, Neb., 
Onawa, Iowa, 
Railroads, - 
Sioux (Jity, Iowa, 
State Center, " - 
South Bend. Ind., 
Tama City, Iowa, 
Toledo, " 

Woodbine, " 



Pag«. 

10, 267-8 

274 

11, 263-4 

269 

10, 273-4 

11, 266 
o 



9, 10, 281-5 

274-5 

249-254 

7, 11,275-9 

265 

5, 6, 8, 255-7 

- 252-3 
- 262 

- 271-2 



I. 



SKETCH 

OF THE 

DISCOVERIES AND EARLY EXPLORATIONS 

OF THE WEST. 



Only three hundred and seventy-six years liave eLapsed since 
the discovery of the American continent. Those liave been 
busy years in the history of men, of progress, and of nations. 
In those latter days of the fifteenth centnry, the Castihan 
conrt and their Catholic Majesties, Ferdinand and Isabella, 
little thonght that by a casual though earnest patronage of the 
Genoese adventurer, Columbus, they were transferring the 
empire of the world to an unknown hemisphere. Even Co- 
lumbus himself did not expect to discover a new continent, 
and, to the day of his death, never knew, noi* even imagined, 
that he had given a mundane twin to the then teri'a cognita. 
His utmost thought and care was to find a westward passage 
to the Indies, teeming with fabled wealth and splendor. 

From what a small beginning has tin's great continent of 
ours sprung ! An inspired beggar, hanging upon the vero-e 
of courts and praying for help in the ante-rooms of imbecile, 
proud, liaughty, but rich aristocracy, after years of vexation 



18 turner's guide to the rocky mountains. 

and luimiliation, is at length so far successful that he has at his 
command three vessels, the largest of which, ninety feet in 
length, is less than the ordinary fishing smack of to-day, and 
the other two undecked and unfit to venture beyond European 
bays and inlets. With these little vessels and an insufficient 
outfit of men and munitions, the man of destiny boldly pushed 
his prows into the unknown waters and hastened to duplicate 
the then know^n world ! So, not by human forecast or design, 
but by that providence of events sometimes called accident, 
America w^as discovered ! 

But in those far-off days, little was gained for humanity by 
the discovery of a continent. Aside from the pious and pat- 
riotic zeal of Columbus, the explorers of that period were 
moved by tlie hope of personal aggrandizement, by greed for 
gold, and the lust of power. 

The career of Hernando Cortes is familiar to all. With the 
characteristic effrontery of a Spanish grandee in reduced cir- 
cumstances, he tried the ineffectual experiment of reducing 
the aborigines to slavery, and sacrificed innumerable human 
lives for gold, failing in the event to get the fortune which he 
sought. In 1536 he was in California, but soon after died in 
solitude, in his own country. 

The history of the Spanish conquests and oppressions has 
engaged the attention of men of genius and learning. Vol- 
umes have been written uj^on the theme, and the summation 
of the whole matter is, unpardonable cruelty, unparalleled 
perfidy, and unconscionable avarice on the part of the Euro- 
pean. Magnificence and gilded splendor ruled in European 
courts ; gold was the key which unlocked the avenues to 
prominence and power; human life and human happiness 
were matters to be freely sacrificed by those who sought the 



turner's guide to the rocky mountains. 19 

higlier position of fame, — especially tlie lives and interests of 
the heathen were considered of little or no account. 

Thus, though providence seemingly opened the way in 
America for the higher achievements of enterprise and intel- 
lect, the low and groveling instincts of what was called Euro- 
pean civilization were not restrained. Cruelty, perfidy and 
meanness, refined and intensified, mark the immediate super- 
aboriginal period of the American continent. Slavery, wasted 
life and wasted energies, avarice with its innumerable attend- 
ant vices, sensualities and untold crimes, form the substance of 
the annals of those days. 

Columbus, the zealous, the enterprising and the just, and 
Cortes, the cruel, the malignant, the avaricious and the tyrant, 
died equally neglected and obscure. They had, however, 
opened a new world to Anglo-Saxon genius and enterprise. 

The first European explorer of the valley of the Mississippi 
was Fernando De Soto, a Spanish officer, born the first year 
of the sixteenth century. He first saw the mighty river in 
June, 1541, near the present site of Helena in the state of 
Arkansas. His explorations, however, were of little account, 
and, as the coveted gold which lured the Spaniard was not 
found, the rich bottoms were left in disgust. One hundred 
and thirty-two years later the Frenchmen, Marquette and 
Joliet, descended the river nearly to its mouth. In 1682 the 
great explorer. La Salle, followed the course of the Mississippi 
to the Gulf, and, in the annexative spirit of the day, took 
possession of the country in the name of the king of France. 
In 1703 the settlement of St. Peters was made upon the Yazoo ; 
in 1718 Is^'ew Orleans was laid out, and ten years afterwards 
the levees were completed in front of the latter city. It may 
be remarked that at that time, that is to say one hundred and 



20 tukner''s (uiide to the kocky mountains. 

fifty years ago, the levee system was fully established in the 
lower part of the state ot' Louisiana. Father Marcjuette was 
a missionary and a Jesuit. As a man he was honest, consci- 
entious and reliable ; as a 2)riest, pious and ever zealous ; and 
as an explorer, enterprising and fearless. Louis" Joliet was 
also a Jesuit by education, born in Quebec, Canada. He had 
an excellent reputation for prudence and tact, and his experi- 
ence among and knowledge of the Indian tribes made him a 
great favorite in the wilds of the West. He was highly 
esteemed by his government and well deserved the confidence 
placed in him. 

Those whom w^e have mentioned were the most eminent of 
the early explorers of the country now included in the United 
States. Theirs, however, w^as but a very general and 2:>artial 
work. It is true they determined the locality, course and 
magnitude of many of the larger water courses, and gave to 
the world a description of the country which had fallen under 
their vision, not at all distinguished for its minuteness or reli- 
ability. They seem to have been more intent upon converting 
the Indian tribes to their peculiar faith, rearing the emblem 
of their especial religious belief, and seeking those sudden and 
magnificent fortunes which had been pictured in their imagin- 
ations, than actuated by an earnest endeavor to confer practi- 
cal benefits upon the human race. The peculiar adaptation of 
the country which they traversed for agricultural purposes is 
nowhere described in their writings ; the prospective location 
of legitimate marts of trade, traffic and exchange were ai)par- 
ently overlooked. Nor can this be wondered at. Hundreds 
of miles inland from the most advanced posts of civilization ; 
amid savage tribes of nomadic men ; with the commerce of a 
continent almost entirely undeveloped ; solitary and alone in 



turner's guide to the rocky mountains. 21 

the wilds ; with the rushing waters of those magnificent rivers 
coming from and going to — they knew not where nor whither ; 
with the rich valleys and boundless prairies before and all 
around them, it is not astonishing that they were bewildered at 
the prospect. They were, at most, only the advanced guard of 
progress and civilization. They came, they saw, but did not 
conquer. Possibly in their minds was the dim prophecy of the 
outcoming future ; but so far removed w^as the full fruition c>f 
their hopes that confidence was abashed. To-day it would be 
interesting to know the musings and the dreams of those ad- 
venturous spirits. We shall never see the record of them. 

The Pacific Ocean was discovered by Balboa, the Spanish 
adventurer, from the. summit of the Sierra de Quarecpia, on 
the Isthmus of Darien, September 29, 1513. It was an occa- 
sion of much rejoicing and very extensive Spanish glorification. 
The significance of the discovery w^as not, however, then at 
all appreciated. It was not even suspected that those placid 
waters formed the western boundary of two continents. 

At the beginning of the present century little w^as known 
of that country now forming the central and western portions 
of the United States. The larger rivers, as we have seen, 
had been discovered and j)artially explored, and vague state- 
ments of impenetrable mountains, flanked to their very base 
by arid plains and impassable gulfs, were made and believed. 
The Indian was lord of the soil, and immense herds of buffalo 
fattened upon the rich grasses. Europeans disturbed neither 
the wild men nor the wdld beasts. Mountain ranges, spurs 
and peaks frowned upon the maj)S, and imaginary deserts 
covered geographical ignorance as with a mantle. 

In the summer of 1S03, Capt. Merri wether Lewis, accom- 
panied by his associate, Capt. William Clark, under the 



22 TrRNKK's (lUIDE TO THE KoCKY MOUNTAINS. 

auspiccvs ul' g(.»\'eriimeiit, set out upon an exploring expedition 
across the continent to tlie Pacific. So slow and tedions was 
their jonriiey that tlie end of the hrst season fonnd them and 
their ])arty on the l)ank of the Mississippi, opposite the month 
of tlie Missonri, where they encamped for the winter. In the 
s])ring of ISO-l the party was again in motion, and passing, by 
September, into the conntry of the Sionx Indians, w^ere able 
to spend their second winter among the Mandans, in latitnde 
47° 21' N. Their w^eary and dangerons march began again in 
A})ril, 1805. Still ascending the Missonri they reached the 
great falls in Jnne. Dnring the snnimer they explored, to 
some extent, the head waters of the Missonri, and for twenty- 
three days of the early antnnni traveled amid the defiles and 
passes of the monntains. Their progress was freqnently 
interrnpted by snow, which began to fall on the 16th of 
September. Eeacliing, at length, the broad plains of the great 
western slope they embarked in canoes on the left branch of 
the Colnnibia, and, on the 15th of November, landed at the 
month of that great river, having traveled more than fonr 
thousand miles from the confluence of the Mississippi and 
Missonri rivers. Here they spent the winter and commenced 
their homeward voyage in March, 1806, by ascending the 
Columbia, re-crossing the Rocky Mountains, amid great hard- 
ships and perils, and after making several fatiguing diversions 
from the main route, they descended the Missouri river, and, 
after an absence of two years and three months, reached the 
city of St. Louis. This was the first systennitic and autlior- 
ized exploration of that interesting region. It required forti- 
tude, daring and sagacity of the highest order, and involved 
great labor and untold snfiering. Althongli at the present 
day the undertaking would be considered of so trifling a char- 



turner's guide to the rocky mouj^h-ains. 23 

acter as to scarcely elicit notice or remark, it was at that early 
period a matter of national solicitude and of great i3ul)lic ben- 
efit. The rocky chain had never before, in those latitudes, 
been penetrated, much less passed by the tread of the white 
man. The natural barrier between the two great oceans, so long 
supposed to be entirely insurmountable, had been overcome! 
The sources of the great Missouri had been sought and found, 
dashing through the mountain fastnesses and draining while 
they watered immense plains and prairies. Trans-Atlantic 
geography had taken a new degree in its development. Vis- 
ionary topographical theories were dissipated. Important 
additions were made to the meager geological knowledge of the 
country. JSTatural history received an accession of important 
facts, and a spirit of inquiry and enterprise had been aroused 
which was destined never to slumber again until the two 
oceans became bound together by the appliances of civiliza- 
tion, of arts, of sciences and religion. It is not, therefore, 
astonishing that the news of the safe return of Lewis and 
Clark with their party was received throughout the country 
with great delight and much rejoicing, and that they were 
hailed everywhere as the great explorers of the day. 

Notwithstanding the brilliant achievements of Lewis and 
Clark, the interior regions of the continent were of course but 
little and imperfectly known. The problem of possible transit, 
it is true, had been solved, but the maps and atlases of the' 
times were covered all over with "unexplored regions" and 
impassable deserts. The United States had only an unimpor- 
tant frontage upon the Pacific ; the JSTorth -Western Territory, 
comprising the present states of Ohio, Michigan, Indiana,' 
Illinois and Wisconsin, was unsettled and but partially ex- 
plored ; the Louisiana purchase added new and more access- 



24 turner's guide to the rocky mountains. 

ible fields for enterprise and fortunes, and the boundless wastes 
bej^ond the great rivers were, by common consent, given over 
to savage and nomadic life. The missionary, the hunter and 
the tra})per were almost the only whites who, for years, in- 
vaded the wildness of those almost unknown regions. In the 
few years that followed some unimportant explorations were 
made, when, at length, in 1816, Major Long, of the United 
States To2>ographical Engineers, commenced his examination 
of the country from the northern boundary of Texas to Lake 
Superior and the sources of the Mississippi. During eight 
years he was employed in this work, and, in that time, trav- 
ersed more than twenty-six thousand miles of wilderness, 
prairie and plain, and gave to the world much new and valu- 
able information in regard to those portions of the national 
domain. lie made an expedition from Pittsburg to the base 
of the Eocky Mountains, penetrated the solitary ravines and 
explored the peaks and canons. One of the highest elevations 
which he noticed was christened Long's Peak, and by that 
name it is still known as a landmark of the mountains. 

The expedition of Colonel Bonneville in the prairies, reach- 
ing, however, no farther than the base of the mountains, is 
now of little interest except as the data from which our late 
countryman, Washington Irving, wrote his interesting work 
on western life, entitled, " Adventures of Captain Bonneville, 
U. S. A., in the Kocky Mountains and the Far West." 
Whether truth or fiction predominates in this work is a ques- 
tion which the reader of it must determine for himself. 

Nicollet, the French astronomer and geological explorer, 
wdio was also the pupil and friend of Laplace, came to the 
United States in 1833 and immediately commenced an 
extensive examination of the southern states, and soon after 



TURNEK S GUIDE TO THE KOCKY MOUNTAINS. 25 

entered upon a scientific exj)loration of the sonrces of the 
Eecl, Arkansas and Missonri rivers. In 1836 ha extended his 
observations to the head waters of the Mississippi. After- 
wards he was engaged by the United States Government to 
revisit the far West and prepare a general report and map. 
His map was completed bnt his report was cut short by his 
death which was hastened by exposure. Fremont was his 
assistant on his last expedition. 

The name of John Charles Fremont, the great explorer of 
America, has become evermore associated with the interior of 
the continent, and will be familiar to the student in geography, 
topography, geology, and indeed all the physical and natural 
sciences, so long as the Eocky Mountains stand upon their 
firm base. Whatever may be, or may have been the merits 
of General Fremont as a statesman or a military commander, 
may safely be left to the pen of impartial history to determine 
and record ; one thing is certain beyond the possibility of suc- 
cessful contradiction — as an explorer, as an enterprising, 
energetic, intelligent, fearless discoverer, he stands among his 
countrymen without a rival or a peer. With the utmost com- 
placency and safety might he rest his claims to an undying 
name upon his magnificent achievements in the mountains 
and upon the plains of the North American continent. 
Humboldt may have done more for science, but no one has 
done more for the world. Columbus, it is true, unwittingly 
discovered our continent and became immortal; Fremont 
explored what Columbus discovered, and determinately 
measured its capabilities and its uses ! To say so much is not 
to enter the realm of flattery nor of eulogy, but to speak those 
sober truths which the discreet and honest historian will not 

fail to record. The teeming thousands, who, for more than 
4 



26 turner's guide to the rocky mountains. 

twenty years, have swelled the tide of emigration to the 
Paciiic; the evidences of civil life, dotting the country and 
extending from ocean to ocean ; the outreaching hands of trade, 
and commerce, and enterprise, of all sorts, skimming the plains 
and feeling among the gulches and canons of the golden sierras, 
for glittering wealth ; the iron track and the speeding train, 
coursing Avith exceeding velocity across the arid plains, and 
winding its devious way among the crags and peaks of the 
mountains ; all these, with their accessories and concomitants, 
only bear testimony to the transcendent genius of the man 
who, regardless of labor, of peril or of good or evil report, 
demonstrated that the Alps of America could be made the 
highway of the world. The civic w^reath which crowns the 
brow of the explorer will be fadeless, and the fame which he 
has achieved will be immortal. 

Fremont was born in Savannah, in the state of Georgia, 
fifty-live years ago. At an early age he lost his father, and 
from his boyhood was the architect of his own fortune. The 
vicissitudes of his early life are not here important. After 
various struggles and serious failures, he at length struck upon 
the course of life for which nature seemed peculiarly to have 
designed him. In 1837 he accompanied CajDtain Williams, of 
the United States Army, in a military reconnoissance of the 
mountainous Clierokee Country, in Georgia, J^orth Carolina 
and Tennessee. This was accomplished in the depth of win- 
ter, and amid mountain winds, frosts and snows. It was his 
first experience of that peculiar and severe kind of cam- 
l)aigning. In 1842 "Fremont," says one of his biographers, 
" projected a geographical survey of the entire teri-itory of 
the United States, from the Missouri Eiver to the Pacific 
Ocean, the feasiljility of an overland comnmnication between 



turner's guide to the rocky mountains. 27 

the two sides of the continent being a leading idea in his 
scheme of explorations. lie accordingly aj^plied to the War 
Department for employment on this service, and having 
received, at his own snggestion, instructions to explore the 
Eocky Mountains, and particularly to examine the South 
Pass, he left Washington, May 2, 1842, and on June 10th be- 
gan his expedition from a point near the mouth of the 
Kansas, a few miles beyond the Missouri border, whence he 
proceeded up the Platte Kiver and its tributaries, through 
bands of hostile Indians, to the South Pass, which was care- 
fully examined. He next explored the Wind Eiver Moun- 
tains, the loftiest peak of which, 13,750 feet above the sea, he 
ascended, August 15th, accompanied by four of his men. 
This mountain is now called Fremont's Peak. From the 
Wind Eiver Mountains, which he left August 18th, Fremont 
returned to his starting place, by nearly the same route that 
he had followed in going out. He reached the mouth of the 
Kansas, October 10, 1842, after an absence of four months. 
He had encountered much hardship and many perils, and 
had successfully accomplished all the objects of the expedi- 
tion. Over the whole course of his extended route, he had 
made barometrical observations for latitudes and longitudes. 
The face of the country was noted as fertile or sterile, the 
practical)ility of routes w^as settled, military positions indi- 
cated, and large contributions made to geology and botany. 
His report of the expedition was laid before Congress in the 
winter of 1842-3. It attracted great attention both at home 
and abroad. It was praised by Humboldt in his "Aspects of 
Kature," and the "London Athen^um" pronounced it one of 
the most perfect productions of its kind. Immediately after 
the publication of his report, Fremont planned a second 



28 turner's guide to the rocky mountains. 

expedition of a iiiucli more euinpreheusive cluiracter tlian tlie 
first. lie deterniiiied to extend liis ex])loratious across the 
continent, and to survey the then unknown region lying 
between tlie Rocky Mountains and the Pacific Ocean. In 
May, 1843, he commenced his journey with thirty-nine men, 
and, in pursuance of liis instructions, proceeded up the Kan- 
sas River far enougli to ascertain its character, and then 
crossed over to the Phitte, W'hicli lie ascended to its source in 
the mountains, where the Sweet Water, one of its tributaries, 
springs from the neighborhood of the South Pass. He reached 
the Pass on August 8th, w^ent through it, and saw the head 
w^aters of the Colorado flowing towards the Gulf of Califor- 
nia. On September 6th, after traveling over seventeen 
hundred miles, he came in sight of the great Salt Lake, of 
wdiich no accurate account had ever been given, and of 
wdiicli very vague and erroneous notions were entertained. 
His investigations effected very important rectifications in 
our geographical knowledge of this portion of the continent, 
and had subsequently a j)owerful influence in promoting the 
settlement of Utah and of the Pacific states. From the Salt 
Lake he proceeded to the upper tributaries of the Columbia 
River, whose valley he descended till on NoveTnber 4th he 
reached Fort Vancouver, near the mouth of the Columbia. 
On November 10th he set out on his return to the States. 
He selected a south-east route, leading from the lower part of 
the Columbia to the Upper Colorado, through an almost 
unknown region, crossed by high and rugged mountain chains. 
He soon encountered deep snows, which impeded his progress 
and forced him to descend into the great basin, and presently 
found himself in the depth of winter in a desert, with the 
prospect before him of death to his whole party trom cold and 



turner's guide to the rocky mountains. 29 

luiiic;er. By astronomical observation lie found that lie was 
in tlie latitude of tlie Bay of San Francisco, T)ut, between 
him and the valleys of California, was a range of mountains 
covered with perpetual snows, which the Indians declared no 
man could cross, and over which no reward could induce them 
to attempt to guide him. Fremont boldly undertook the pas- 
sage without a guide, and accomplished it in forty days, 
reaching Sutter's Fort on the Sacramento early in March, 
with his men reduced almost to skeletons, and with only 
thirty-three out of sixty-seven horses and mules remaining, 
and those that survived so weak and thin that they could 
barely walk while led along. He resumed his journey March 
24th, and proceeding southward, struck the western base of 
the Sierra Nevada, crossed that range through a gap, entered 
the great basin, and again visited the Salt Lake, from which, 
through the South Pass, he returned to Kansas in July, 1844, 
after an absence of fourteen months, during the greater part 
of which he was never out of sight of snow." 

In the spring of 1845, Fremont set out on his third expe- 
dition, to explore the great basin and the maritime region of 
Oregon and California. Examining the head waters of the 
rivers which rise in the dividing rido-e between the Pacific 
.and the Mississippi valley, he again visited the great Salt 
Lake, explored the Sierra Kevada, which chain he crossed 
again in the dead of winter, and after many perilous adven- 
tures successfully made his way to the valley of the San 
Joaquin. For some years political aifairs engrossed his 
attention, and it was not until the autumn of 1848 that Fre- 
mont started on his fourth expedition, at his own expense. 
His route now lay along tlie w^aters of the Pio Grande, 
among Indians then at war Avith the United States. His 



80 TUKNEK'S GUIDE TU THE KUC'KY :MUUNTAL\S. 

object was t<> find a practiciible passage in this direction to 
California. Losing his Avay in the great Sierra, lie and his 
party were subjected to almost intolerable sufferings, and some 
of them were reduced to the horrors of cannibalism to sus- 
tain life. He, how^ever, accomplished the object of his 
search, and found a secure route by which he reached Sacra- 
mento in the spring of ISttO. 

His fifth and hist expedition, undertaken on his own account, 
was. commenced in September, 1853, for the purpose of com- 
pleting the survey of the route taken on his fourth journey. 
He found passes through the mountains on the line of 38*^ 
and 39' north, and reached California in safety, though not 
without the customary amount of hardship and suffering. 
For fifty days the party lived on horse flesh, and for days 
together had no food at alL 

We have thus taken, a hasty glance at the discoveries and 
explorations of the most interesting portion of the continent, 
down to the time w^hen the accession of California to the 
United States, and the discovery of placers and mines teeming 
with deposits of the precious metals, set in motion that extra- 
ordinary emigration wdiich swarmed in the mountains and 
pressed onward to the Golden Gate. As pioneers Lewis and 
Clark stand foremost. They demonstrated the possibility of 
crossing the unexplored and rugged waste and furnished the 
initial to those who succeeded them. Fremont earned for 
himself the title of the great "Pathfinder," and seemed 
almost to have been providentially raised \\\> for the time and 
the occasion. The Gallic moiety of his nature gave buoyancy, 
hope and enthusiasm, while his Saxon blood and American 
education outcropped in indomitable will, d(>gged persever- 
ance and a determination satisfied by nothing short of success. 



turner's guide to the rocky mountains. 31 

The ideal of Columbus was a passage westward to the spicy 
groves and golden sands of India. He died when fruition 
was, seeminglj, almost within his grasp. Fremont, when the 
proper time arrived, opened the path which Columbus sought 
in vain. At the approach of Fremont, snow-clad mountains 
seemed to fade away and become naught ; rocky fastnesses 
melted into accommodating passes ; yawning canons became 
practicable and safe highways, and all barriers were proved to 
be unsubstantial and visionary. The explorations of Fremont, 
by throwing light upon the physical geograjDhy and topo- 
graphy of a vast region, evoked that first hajDjDy thought 
which has culminated in an almost completed railway from 
ocean to ocean. A jDrouder monument need not be coveted 
by any one. Had Fremont lived in the fifteenth century he 
might have been a Columbus; had the great Genoese been of 
the present century he might have been a Fremont. 

In the month of February, 18i8, gold was accidentally dis- 
covered on the property of Col. Sutter, in Caloma County, 
California. The news spread with great rapidity. Immedi- 
ately the restless spirit of the East was aroused to 
extraordinary activity. Men left their farms, their work-shops 
and their merchandise to go in search of sudden wealth. 
Ease, comfort, home, friends, all which spring from, and are 
included in a fair condition of civilization or development 
were sacrificed without hesitation or re^et. Men cono-reo-ated 
in masses along the frontier, eager to rush over the plains and 
plunge into the mountains. All known modes of transit 
were brought into requisition, and when they were exhausted 
others were invented. And so, the thousands upon thousands 
rushed on, taking the roads hitherto marked out by the 
"Pathfinder," and swelling the grand caravan which was soon 



32 turner's guide to the rocky mountains. 

to set new stars blazing npon tlie American flag — wliicli was 
to raise a new Anglo-Saxon empire on the Paciflc, and to 
give civilization and hnmanitj new hopes, and extraordinary 
facilities for development and expansion. The Great Salt 
Lake Yalley, but now recently known, l)ecame a point of 
attraction and of importance. There a singular people, moved 
by religious zeal and driven by religious persecution, estab- 
lished, as it were, their New Jerusalem, and began their 
important part in the wonderful living panorama. The 
explorer, with his suffering and his science immediately gave 
way to poj)ular knowledge. The gates were opened and the 
irrepressible Saxon with lirm tread and defiant look walked 
through to possess the land. 



II. 



RAILROADS: 



TIIEIE HISTOEY, USES AND VALUE. 



The history of Eailroads with their appliances, from their 
first incipiency to the present day, minutely followed, would he 
hoth curious and instructive. That history, notwithstanding 
the vast amount of material at hand, has, as yet, never heen 
fully written. It involves much more than a chronological and 
statistical account of the progress of construction, and a detail 
of the various contrivances and inventions now known to 
locomotion hy rail. It must necessarily enter into the phi- 
losophy of economics ; discuss the commercial relations of 
states and nations ; consider the moral and social questions 
involved, and, generally, elucidate the suhject in its various 
connections and multifarious bearings. Such a liistury, it is 
hoped, will, at no far distant day, be written. It is our j)res- 
ent purpose to give only a brief synopsis of Railroad annals. 
The collieries of JSTewcastle-upon-Tyne, in England, had the 
honor of inaugurating the use of rails, nearly two hundred 
years ago. It was a rude contrivance made " by laying rails 
of timber exactly straight and parallel ; and bulky carts were 
made with four rollers fitting those rails, whereby the carriage 
was made so easy that one horse would draw four or five 



34 turner's guide to the rocky mountains. 

clialdroiis of coal." Many cliaiiges were subsequently made 
in the construction of tliese tracks, but it was not until 1765 
that the principal features of the present Railroad had been 
established. The bearings w^ere first made of strips of wood, 
easily removed and replaced, for which straps of iron were 
subsequently substituted ; and in 1767 cast iron bars were 
used. These bars were made Rxe feet long, four inches wide, 
and one and three-quarter inches thick, and were firmly 
spiked to the lower rail. Tliese were called " tram " roads 
from a Mr. Outrani, who had much to do with their construc- 
tion. At an early day the top of the rail was oval and the 
tire of the wheel was hollowed out so as to fit the convex sur- 
face of the rail. It Avas not until 1820 that machinery was 
invented for rolling iron into suitable shape for rails. Up to 
that time horse power was exclusively used, except that, on 
inclined planes, gravity was made use of for descending 
wagons, and ascending trains were sometimes thus drawn up 
by means of a rope j)assed around a wheel at the summit. 
Watt first suggested the idea of constructing steam carriages, 
and directed inventive thought to the locomotive. In 
1782, Oliver Evans, of Philadelphia, patented a steam wagon, 
and two years after. Watt secured a patent for a locomotive. 
In 1812, engines were made with eight driving wheels, for the 
purpose of securing the required traction, while others were 
tried with posterior levers w^orking alternately, like the hind 
legs of a horse. In 1825, the first Railroad in the world was 
opened for conveying jjassengers. It ran from Stockton to 
Dai'lington, and was worked with horse }30wer. The year 
folhjwing, locomotives were successfully introduced in France, 
in which many of the peculiarities of the Stephenson engine 
were successfully adopted. In 1829, George Stephenson gave 



turner's guide to the rocky mountains. 35 

to the world a locomotive wliicb ran at an average speed of 
fourteen miles an hour, with a gross load of seventeen tons, 
and under favorable circumstances a speed of twenty-eight 
miles was attained. This was the model on which all steam 
locomotives have since been built. Thus, it is said, was 
established a new system of locomotion, vastly exceeding in 
capacity all others before known, destined to be rapidly ex- 
tended, and to exert an extraordinary and most beneficial 
influence upon human affairs. At this time the maximum 
weight of the iron rail was thirty-three pounds to the yard, 
and the gauge, which has since become the national gauge of 
Great Britain, was four feet eight and a half inches. Inclined 
planes were in frequent use to draw trains up ascents, by 
means of stationary engines. The more important roads 
were built with double tracks as a measure of safety. 

Tlie first Eailroad built in the United States was com- 
menced in 1826 and completed in the following year. It ran 
from the granite quarries of Quincy, Massachusetts, a distance 
of three miles, to the JSTeponset river. It was built on granite 
sleepers, seven and one-half feet long, laid eight feet apart. 
The iron was composed of flat bars. The second road was 
conq^leted in May, 1827, from the coal mines of Mauch 
Chunk, Pennsylvania, to the Lehigh river, a distance of nine 
miles. With the turn-outs and branches, this road exceeded 
thirteen miles in length, and was thought at the time to be a 
wonderful achievement. The rails were of timber laid on 
wooden sleepers and " straj^ped " with iron. The Delaware 
and Hudson Canal Comj^any constructed their road from the 
coal mines to Honesdale in 1828, and in 1829 imported an 
engine built by George Stephenson, at his works at JS'ewcas- 
tle-upon-Tyne, which was the first locomotive seen in Amer- 



36 tuknp:r's guide to the kucky mountains. 

ica. This engine luid four wheels, was furnished with the 
nmltituhuhir boiler and the exhaust blast. In 1831, four- 
wheeled trucks for locomotives and long passenger cars were 
first introduced on the Charleston and Hamburg road in 
South Carolina. These were designed by Horatio Allen, and 
with trifling change, his system of double truck running gear, 
including the application of pedestals to the springs, has con- 
tinued in use to the present time in this country. 

The Baltimore and Ohio road was commenced July 1, 1828, 
and was the first of that great system of roads which now 
form a net-work over a large portion of the country. In the 
first eight months of 1831, this road transported over eighty 
thousand passengers, and about six thousand tons of freight. 
In October, 1831, the number of passengers daily transported 
over the Hudson and Mohawk Kailroad between Albany and 
Schenectady, in the state of New York, was three hundred 
and eighty-seven, and in 1832, a locomotive with a load of 
eight tons traveled on the same road at the rate of thirty 
miles an hour. Good authority states that in 1832, sixty- 
seven Kailroads were in full or partial operation in Pennsyl- 
vania alone. From this time forward the roads hi this have 
exceeded those in any other country. 

In 1838, the number of miles of Kailroad completed in the 
United States amounted to 1,843; in 1850 it had reached 
8,827 miles, and at the close of 1860 it amounted to over 
thirty-one thousand. We have no data from which to ascer- 
tain the aggregate length of the hundreds of roads now in 
daily use, but it cannot fall much short of fifty thousand. 

In Illinois, where in 1850 there were but twenty-two miles 
of Eailroad, there were in 1858 over two thousand two 
hundred and fifty miles. At this time, twelve trunk and 



turner's guide to the rocky mountains. 



37 



twent j-nine branch and extension lines, in all forty-one roads, 
witli seven thousand and nineteen miles of main track cen- 
ter at Chicago alone, a large proportion of which is built on 
Illinois soil. The number of regular passenger trains arriv- 
ing at and departing from Chicago daily is ninety, and the 
number of freight trains ninety-six. Tile gross earnings of 
the main lines leading from Chicago, for nineteen years, coin- 
mencino; with 1849, show a strand total of over three hundred 
and forty-five millions of dollars ! 

The comparative statement of the extent and various con- 
ditions as to cost and profits of the Eailroads of the principal 
countries of Europe and the United States, for the years 
named, is given in the following table from English author- 
ities : 



COUNTRIES. 



Austria 

Belgium 

France 

Germany, exclusive of 
Austria and Prussia. 

Great Britain — Eng- 
land and Wales... 
Scotland.. 
Ireland... 

Holland 

Prussia 

Sardinia 

Spain 

Switzerland 

Tuscany 

United States 



1850 
1856 
1854 

1855 

1857 

1857 
1856 
1855 
1855 
-1856 
1856 
1 1855 





> 1) 


c 


-o a 




• 


o 

4> 


go 








«ii 








•e"s 


O 




«; 


x: 


" !:; 


^S 


a ca 


c — 


*J (D 


<u ^ 


o-o a. 


l-H «^ 


H aj o 


1,586 


£16,378 


445 


16,391 



2,913 

2,226 

} 6,706 

1 1,243 

[^1,070 

163 

2,503 

234 

130 

203 

132 

17,481 



25,668 

13,111 

39,275 
28,225 
15,664 
19,931 
14,101 



19.888 

15,556 

8,275 



©.S 



s-s 



4) c 
O i^ <u 

a CO 



£2,190 
2,158 
2,706 

1,816 

3,161 

2,107 

1,091 

1,709 

1,877 

1,477 

924 

636 

966 

1.234 



n a 



Z o 



c. 



•fe ?! 



•^ <U c3 

c s. 

C <u u 
.2 G 



£1,040 

898 

1,515 



52.70 
58.16 
44.01 



919 49.28 



1,597 
1,166 
626 
667 
909 
703 
402 
295 
520 
568 



48.00 
44.00 
38.00 
60.96 
51.59 
51.38 
56.48 
54.28 
46.18 
54.00 



6.32 
5.48 
6.58 

5.70 

4.06 
4.13 

3.99 
3 35 
6.22 



1.48 
3.34 
6.70 



By inspecting the foregoing table many important tacts 
will appear. It will be observed that the United States, at 



38 turner's (U'ide to the RorivV moixtains. 

the time indicated, liad more than twice as many miles of 
Kaih-oad as any otlier country in tlie world. At tlie present 
time it is safe to say the pro23ortion is at least as tliree to one. 
It will also appear that the cost of construction here is less 
than one-half in most European states, about one-third in 
France, and a little over one-fifth in England. It will further 
be noticed that the return for capital employed, in om- coun- 
try, exceeds that in any of them, which is a matter of no 
small importance. When it is considered that the natural 
increase of business here is greatly in excess of that of any 
other country, and that, year by year, the running expenses 
are being gradually and greatly diminislied, the important 
lact is deduced that Raih'oad investments are, ere long, to 
become not only very safe but very profitable. The traffic on 
American Railroads increases rapidly and regularly. In this 
regard there is no retrogression. In short, it is safe to say 
that Railroad investments are, with us, the surest, safest and 
most productive of any. This may be said so far as mere in- 
vestments are concerned. But when we take into the account 
the untold benefits which Railroads confer upon the country 
through which they pass; the limitless amount of territory 
which they develop ; the cities, villages and towns which they 
create, and the many other benefits which they bestow, no 
just-minded person will dispute the proposition that no (►ther 
investment is or can be so productive. Indeed, we deem it 
certain that the time has come wdien no prudent num can 
doubt the propriety of placing his surplus funds in those insti- 
tutions which, by an inevitable necessity, not only distribute 
but create wealth. 

The project of connecting the Missouri River with the 
Pacific Ocean resulted from the successful exph.) rations of 



turner's guide to the rocky mountains. 39 

General Fremont, and was first presented to public notice by 
Mr. Asa Whitney, in 1846. When first announced, it was 
generally considered chimerical in the extreme. Few persons 
thought the enterprise possible, and less expected to live to see 
its completion. Mr. Whitney agitated the scheme for several 
years in every possible way. The accpiisition and settlement 
of California afforded new^ and potent reasons for the build- 
ing of the road, and finally the serious attention of the 
Government was directed to the subject. In March, 1853, 
Congress made an appropriation of $150,000 to defray the 
expenses of necessary surveys, and several parties, fitted out 
and equij^ped in the most perfect manner, were dispatched 
by the War Department. With a single exception these ex- 
plorations were in charge of officers of the Topographical 
Engineer Corps of the Army. The work was prosecuted 
with -great vigor and thoroughness, and the result embodied 
in thirteen volumes of reports with maps and profiles, which 
were printed by order of Congress. As a matter of history, 
it may be stated that these explorations were made under the 
immediate orders and superintend ency of a man named 
Jefferson Davis, then Secretary of War, but more lately 
notorious as a traitor. Ten routes w^ere examined and reported 
upon. Of these, two were pronounced altogether impractica- 
ble. Of the remaining eight, the comparative 'cost was 
estimated at from sixty-eight millions to over one hundred 
and forty millions of dollars. The altitude above the sea of 
the highest points on the eight feasible routes varied from 
5,717 feet to 8,373 feet, which last had reference to the route 
near the -list and 4:2d parallels, from Council Bluff's, Iowa, 
the same being substantially the one adopted by the Union 
Pacific Company. It is proper to remark that tlie liighest 



4:0 turner's guide to the rocky mountains. 

altitude of this road as constructed is found to be 8,218 feet, 
a fact wliich sIioavs tlie remarkable accuracy of the prelimin- 
ary surveys. The length of this route was estimated at two 
thousand and thirty-two miles, and the cost of construction at 
$116,095,000. The number of miles of the route which 
would 23ass through arable land was estimated at six hundred 
and thirty-two. Finally, in 1862, after mature investigation 
and deliberation. Congress authorized the building of the 
great Union Pacific Road from the Missouri Eiver westward, 
and the Central Pacific from the California coast, tlie two to 
meet and form a continuous line. It is a semi-Governmental 
work, and eminently national in its designs and character. 
The donations of land and the subsidies made by the United 
States constitute a munificence unequaled in the history of 
improvements, and the steady, persistent and enlightened 
enter]3rise of those men who have prosecuted the great work, 
stand without a parallel in the world. When we consider the 
magnitude of the undertaking, the difiiculties to be encoun- 
tered and the discouragements to be overcome, all former 
projects, however important or successful they may have been, 
are dwarfed into comparative insignificance. Starting from 
almost the extreme of our western border, it traverses for its 
whole distance an unsettled and generally unproductive 
country, with little wood and no suj^plies. It stretches across 
arid plains and plunges into mountain defiles, spans broad 
rivers and leaps, as it were, over yawning chasms. Undaunted 
by the varied and almost innumeral)le physical im])ediments 
which abound all along the route, and regardless of dangers 
of the situation springing from the hostility and perfidy of the 
savage tribes of Indians wliich swarm along the whole line, 
these brave men have gone on with their work until success 



turner's guide to the rocky mountains. 41 

is assured and victory is certain. It is said tliat the men 
wlio are so actively prosecuting this great enterprise are actu- 
ated by selfish motives, and that the result of their labors 
will be princely fortunes. Very likely. They do not claim 
to be missionaries, and men who value their services at so low 
a rate as to work for nothing are not the ones to successfully 
build Railroads, especially where extraordinary difficulties 
are to be overcome, incredible hardships and privations to be 
endured and great risks to be taken. All honor to the 
men ! 

Some of the unusual features of the Union Pacific Railroad 
have been already enumerated ; others may be readily men- 
tioned. The possibility of spanning the continent with an 
iron way has been practically demonstrated. There is no 
longer doubt upon this subject; hence this is likely to be the 
pioneer of many other and similar enterprises. 

Unlike all otliers, this is peculiarly an American road, and 
the interests of the Government are so intimately interwoven 
with it that it assumes the character of a national work. 
The means for its construction have been drawn entirely from 
domestic sources, and every pound of iron used or to be 
used upon it is the product of American work shops. It 
was commenced and vigorously prosecuted in the midst of a 
desperate and expensive war, when the very life of the nation 
w^as trembling in the balance, thus demonstrating, not only 
the faith of its projectors in the permanency of our Govern- 
ment, but furntshing evidence of the great nmterial ability of 
the country. 

During the late war it was sufiiciently proved that Railroads, 

besides furnishing indispensable means of transit for troops 

and munitions, were themselves the strongest and most avail- 
G 



42 turner's guide to the rocky mountains. 

able fortresses that could be erected. Tliey gave a sort of 
omnipresence to armies, and by frequently duplicating forces, 
made great movements and sj^lendid victories easy, which 
without them would have been impossible. They have now 
become military necessities, and may be considered as an im- 
portant arm of the service. Viewed from a military point, 
the Union Pacific Railroad possesses a value which can hardly 
be over-estimated. It insures peace and safety along its route, 
and affords the means for the ready and perfect protection of 
the Pacific coast. 

Of late years there has been a tendency towards the con- 
solidation of Eailroad lines having a common interest, for the 
purpose of securing greater certainty, usefulness and economy. 
The Chicago and North-Western Railway affords one of the 
best illustrations of the importance and success of consolida- 
tion. The following statement, compiled by one i:)eculiarly 
versed in Railroad affairs, is to the point, and embodies much 
valuable information : 

"In 181:8 a charter was procured by the officers of the 
Galena & Chicago Union Railroad Company for a branch of 
their road into Wisconsin, to be called the Beloit & Madison 
Railroad. Various changes and combinations took place, the 
Illinois & Wisconsin Railroad Company being incorporated 
in 1851, and merged in 1855 with the Rock River Valley 
Railroad (formerly the Beloit & Madison), into the Chicago, 
St. Paul & Fond du Lac. In 1857 this road was consolidated 
with the Wisconsin & Superior Railroad, which had received 
valuable land grants for a line to the great iron and copper 
regions of Lake Superior. In the revulsion of 1857 the 
Chicago, St. Paul & Fond du Lac Railroad was mostly 
ruined. It surviN ed the storm, though badly shattered, and 



turner's guide to the rooky mountains. 43 

in 1859 was organized as the Chicago & Xorth-Western 

Railway. 

" In 1864 the Chicago & l^orth-Western achieved a great 
step in obtaining control of the Galena & Chicago Union 
Railroad, then one of the best paying roads in the country. 

"The Fulton branch, which was included in this consolida- 
tion, is, with its extension across Iowa, perhaps the most 
important branch of the great line, on account of the vast 
westward region which it w^ill open up. It runs due west 136 
miles almost on an air line to the Mississippi, at Fulton, 
w^here it crosses on a splendid bridge, erected in the rapid 
current, in some places forty feet deep, at a cost of $400,000, 
and pushes on across the rich fields of Iowa tow^ards the Mis- 
souri River at Omaha, which place it reached early in 1867, 
being 500 miles west of Chicago. Here it connects with the 
great Union Pacific Railroad. When this great enterprise is 
completed, the whole immense territory from Lake Michigan 
to San Francisco will be bound by a continuous line of rail. 

"In 1865 the Chicago & Milwaukee became a permanent 

part of the great Chicago & ^N'orth-Western system by virtue 

of a perpetual lease. In 1862 the Peninsula Railroad w\as 

chartered by the Legislature of Michigan, to run from Escan- 

aba, or Green Bay, to the great iron regions at i^egaunee, 

sixty-two miles, and thirteen miles south of Marcpiette, and 

in 1864 the Chicago & North-Western Company obtained 

control of this also. The remaining link to Marquette on 

Lake Superior is supplied by the Michigan & Bay de ISToquet 

Railroad. This line, in connection with the fine steamers 

which run betw^een Escanaba and Green Bay, one hundred 

miles, where the main line of the Chicago & ISTorth- Western 

Railway terminates, forms a delightful route for summer 



44 turner's guide to the rocky mountains. 

travel, and (^j^eiis up the great lumber and mining regions of 
Wisconsin and Michigan. 

"An enterprise of scarcely less importance than any ol 
those already mentioned is now on foot to extend the Madi- 
son Division of the great North-Western system to Winona, 
and thence up the Mississippi to St. Paul, tap])ing the 
innnense fur and other business of the North-West. The dis- 
tance from Madison to Winona is about 130 miles, and from 
thence to St. Paul about 90 more — making 220 to be built. 
^Negotiations are now pending in regard to the construction of 
this important line. 

"The following are the lines constituting the great system 
now known as the Chicago & North- Western Railway : 

" Wisconsin Division. 
" Chicago &, North-AVestern Railway — From Chi- 
cago to Fort Howard, Wis., opposite Green Bay, 242 miles. 
''Peninsular Division. 
" From Escanaba to Negaunee, Mich. - - - - 60 " 

"Kenosha Division. 
" Kenosha ife Pockford Railroad — From Kenosha, 
Wis., to Rockford, 111. 73 " 

" Milwaukee Divisioii. 
"Chicago tfe Milwaukee Railway — From Chicago 

to Milwaukee, 85 " 

' ' Madison Div ision. 
"Beloit «fe Madison Railroad — From Caledonia, on 

the Kenosha Division, to Madison, ----- 60 " 

" Galena Division. 
" Galena tfe Chicago Union Railroad — From Chi- 
cago to Freeport, ----- - 121 " 



turner's guide to the rocky mountains. 45 

''''Fox River Yalley Division. 
"From Elgin, on the Galena Division, to the Wis- 
consin State line, -- 35 miles. 

" Omalia Line, 
"Dixon Air-Line Railroad — From Chicago to Ful- 
ton, _ ... 136 " 

" From Clinton, Iowa, opposite Fulton, to Omaha, 

Nebraska, - - - - 364 " 

"Total length of C. &K"VY.Ry., - - - 1,176 miles. 

" The last annual report of this great consolidated line gives 
an idea of the amount of business transacted by it. The 
gross earnings for the year ending May 31, 1867, of all the 
lines of road oj)erated by this company, including the leased 
roads in Iowa, and the Chicago & Milwaukee Railway, were 
$10,161,735, being an increase of $1,035,663 over the previ- 
ous year. The operating expenses were 69 91-100 per cent, 
of the gross earnings, or $7,193,993; lea\ang the net earnings 
over operating expenses, $3,057,742. 

"During the year there were purchased or built by the 
company 76 locomotives, 9 passenger cars, IS baggage cars, 
1,570 freight and way cars, and 197 ore cars. The present 
equipment consists of 248 locomotives, 133 passenger cars, 
and 5,556 other cars. 

"The earnings for passengers were $2,945,016 ; for freight, 
$6,649,589 ; and for mail, express, &c., $567,129. 

"The value of the property of the road is $45,864,322, 
being $5,857,226 more than the previous year. The total 
number of passengers carried during the year, each way, w^as 
1,533,028. The number carried to Chicago w^as 345,182; 
from Chicago, 413,440." 



46 turner's orTDE to the rocky amount atns. 

It should bo remarked tliat the Chicago tfe l^orth-West- 
ern Railway has given important aid in the construction of 
the Union Pacific, and that it forms an indispensable link in 
the great chain which is to bind the Atlantic to the Pacific 
Ocean. 

The Pailroad system of the United States is yet in its 
infancy. Less than forty years has elapsed since the first 
]'ail w^as laid. Many discouragements have been met and 
vanquished. Yet so accustomed have we become to these 
wonderful utilizers, that we are slow^ to realize their import- 
ance, or to appreciate their significance. Let us look a 
moment at this subject. There are not far from thirty-five 
thousand miles of Railroad in the United States, which at an 
average of forty thousand dollars to the mile, represent a 
ca]ntal of one thousand four hundred millions of dollars. At 
fifty-six pounds to the yard, it requires two millions four 
hundred and thirty thousand tons of iron to lay the track. 
Twenty years is the utmost length of time which Pailroad 
bars w^ill last ; the average is much less, and it is safe to 
assume that this incredible amount of iron has to be replaced 
every fifteen years. The Avorking expenses of each mile per 
annum is found to average about six hundred dollars, or an 
annual aggregate of twenty-one millions. An army of men 
is constantly employed, day and night, in this great interest, 
embracing the best executive and financial ability, men of 
science, and of art, persons of high mechanical attainments, 
besides skilled and common laborers. Indeed, railroading has 
already become an industry of itself, a trade, a i)rofession 
Avhich is constantly absorbhig a large amount of the best talent 
of the land. In the late war, the element in our Northern 
armies drawn from this interest, gave us a great advantage over 



tuenek's guide to the bocky mountains. 4:7 

the enemy, and contributed largely to our final success. We 
had almost an army of practical engineers ready at a mo- 
ment's notice to build a bridge, or an engine, or to locate and 
construct a railroad, or a line of telegraph. 

The increase in the value of property, and the impetus 
given to all kinds of business and industries by railroads, if 
reduced to the lowest money valuation would constitute a sum 
quite incredible. They have opened up and settled immense 
territories, giving a commercial value to many commodities 
before considered worthless ; they have increased the price of 
nearly all the products of labor by affording facilities for ex- 
change ; they have created towns and cities and established 
many notable marts of trade ; they have stimulated intellect- 
ual improvement, have benefited the moral status of the land 
and added largely to social culture and enjoyment. They 
are not only great revolutionizers but the most important civ- 
ilizers the world has ever known. 

The city of Chicago and the state of Illinois may be very 
properly referred to for the purpose of illustrating the great 
benefits resulting from railroad communication. In 1833, the 
town of Chicago was organized when there were exactly twen- 
ty-eiglit voters. The city was chartered in 1837, in which year 
the first census showed a population of 4:,-170. There were 
then four warehouses and three hundred and ninety-eight 
dwellings. The celebrated river and harbor convention of 
1847 found there a population of less than 20,000, prostrated 
and impoverished by recent financial and commercial reverses. 
In 1850 the first railroad, twenty-two miles in length, pene- 
trated the city, and the census stood at 28,269, which doubled 
every four years till it reached 130,000, and now it is found to 
be over a quarter of a million. The total value of agricultural 



48 turner's guide to the rocky mountains. 

productions in Illinois in 1839-40 was $11,577,281, and in 
1849-50 it was $57,404,114. Careful and accurate men now 
estimate tlie amount at not much less than two hundred mil- 
lions, and all other interests have increased in about the same 
pro2)ortion. One fact stands out boldly and can not fail to 
attract the attention of every one. It is this: The progress 
of Illinois, of Chicago and of the railroads permeating the 
state and centering at the wonderful city have increased since 
1850 in about the same ratio. 

It is observable that notw^ithstanding the great increase of 
railroads and the facilities which they afford for moving the 
products of the country, the business of our water thorough- 
fares has not only not been diminished, but has been very 
materially augmented. This shows that railroads increase 
production and stimulate enterprise in a much larger ratio 
than they afford facilities for transit and transportation. The 
remark is applicable not only to our OAvn but to other coun- 
tries. And yet it is a curious fact that the first roads built in 
the United States were not designed to carry freight. Indeed, 
the roads in the State of JSTew York were strictly prohibited 
from performing such service, and it was only after a severe 
struggle that they obtained the right to transport property in 
the winter when the canals were closed. Subsequently all 
restrictions were removed. 

The electric telegraj^h since its invention has been the 
steady pioneer and almost constant companion of the railroad. 
Indeed, so intimately are their uses interwoven that rail- 
roading would be, at the present time, almost impracticable 
without the aid of the telegraph. The writer of these pages 
was present in Cleveland, Ohio, in the summer of 1847, and 
heard the first tick of the first telegraph constructed west of 



turner's guide to the rocky mountains. 49 

Buffalo and north of the Ohio river. The line ran from 
Pittsburg to Cleveland, and the first message conveyed over it 
was a congratulation from the Mayor of Pittsburg to J. A. 
Harris, Esq., then Mayor of Cleveland, and one of the 
editors of the Daily Herald of that city. H. B. Ely, Esq., 
of Kochester, N'ew York, now deceased, was the constructor 
of that line. 



III. 



MANUFACTURES AT THE WEST. 



WESTEEN AND EASTERN FACILITIES 
FOR MANUFACTURING COMPARED. 



The manufactures of the West, although less concentrated 
than in older sections and lacking, to a degree, the system 
and consequent economy which maturity affords, are scarcely 
surpassed by the great work-shops of the East. It has long- 
been one of the vain imao^inino^s of the rn^ficed New Ene:land 
states that there, and there alone, was to be the seat of wealth 
and of that productiveness resulting from ingenuity and skilled 
labor, in our land. This phantasy if not already, is certainly 
in a fiiir way soon to be dispelled. The notion that these 
states are peculiarly adapted to manufacturing industries 
seems to spring from the oft repeated maxim that nothing is 
created in vain ; and as nature has withheld from them those en- 
dowments which render other industrial achievements possi- 
ble, they have thoughtlessly concluded that they are predes- 
tined to be the spinners and weavers and general artisans of the 
continent. The conclusion, whether logical or not, is at least 
flattering, and so long as it is harmless should perhaps be 
allowed to stand ; but there is a logic of events, a conclusion 



T^-I-.' 



TURNER S GUIDE TO THE ROCKY MOUNTAINS. 51 

springing from facts and the nature of things, with whicli 
New Englanders would do well to acquaint themselves. They 
will then ascertain that the time is approaching when they 
will be obliged to seek other uses for their " hills and rills," 
or abandon the maxim to which they now so fondly cling. 
It is not pleasant to undeceive those whose ignorance has 
long been a very profitable bliss ; but the truth if not spoken 
here will be sure to assert itself in the current and fast crowd- 
ing events of the West. 

Undoubtedly the most economical, safest and consequently 
best point for manufacturing, other things being equal, is 
where production and consumption meet. That point, so far 
as the West is concerned, is assumed and can be proved to 
be in the West and not in the East. What are the relative 
advantages of these two sections in this regard ? 

In New England the motive power is very generally, 
though not exclusively, water. From her innumerable hill- 
tops, mountain streams come rushing, wildly and madly, 
down to the lower lands, and form by their united volume 
water courses, which in some instances assume the dignity as 
well as name of rivers. By these streams and rivers a large 
proportion of the machinery is moved. In the springtime they 
are impetuous and uncontrollable. The sun of summer 
parches the hill sides and dries up their sources. For a por- 
tion of the year sufiicient j)ower is obtained to drive a large 
amount of machinery. This, however, is not constant. An 
ordinary drought reduces the largest river to a thread and a long 
continued one dries up the water altogether. As the country 
has been cleared, as the hills and intervals have been denuded 
of their wealth of original forest, the volume of running 
waters lias been gradually but certainly and permanently 



52 tpkner's guide to the rocky mountains. 

decreased, and year by year the process goes on. So true is 
this that it is thought by many that, ere long, a large portion 
of the hitherto valuable mill-sites will become entirely value- 
less. At the best, even now, they are intermittent and 
inconstant, and many water mills are obliged to be furnished 
with steam engines to guard against frequent and disastrous 
stoppages. When steam is used, fuel is generally scarce and 
expensive. The precipitous character of the country occasions 
many and destructive floods, rendering all mill property liable 
to accident and much of it hazardously insecure. The raw 
material which enters into the composition of most fabrics 
has to be transported a long distance, often passing the very 
door of the consumer a thousand miles from the manufactory. 
In this process not only are great expenses incurred but much 
time and a large amount of extra capital is required. The 
manufactured articles must find a market in the West, and, 
for this purpose, are subjected to heavy transportation charges, 
extra insurance and loss of interest. The intervention of an 
army of commission merchants, agents and other middlemen 
is required to keep up the commimication between the pro- 
ducer and the consumer. Subsistence for employees has 
to be obtained from the teeming prairies of the West, all of 
which is subjected to heavy freights and the usual commis- 
sions. The needs of the market for which products are destined 
are but imperfectly known, and losses from this cause must be 
sustained or imdesirable goods be forced upon the consumer 
with detriment to one party and dissatisfaction to the other. 

On the other hand, the West is noted as much for the 
length and magnitude of its rivers as for the fertility of its 
soil. Notwithstanding the generally even surface of the 
country, the main water courses have so decided a fall that 



turner's guide to the rocky mountains. 53 

extraordinary manufacturing facilities are duplicated at fre- 
quent intervals. The water power is abundant, constant and 
entirely inexhaustible. Buildings and machinery are sub- 
jected to no nnusual danger or risks. Floods, for the most 
part, are unknown, and such disastrous freshets as are fre- 
quent in hilly countries never occur. Tlie streams are nearly 
all fed from springs or lakes which form fountains or reser- 
voirs, pure, clear and inexhaustible. From this latter 
circumstance arises tlie fact that extreme low stages of water 
are infrequent and stoppages from want of motive power are 
never experienced. The average volume ot water flowing in 
the streams, instead of being decreased as the surrounding 
country is improved, is considerably augmented by the sur- 
face water thrown off by cultivation and drainage. I^or is 
this accretion insignificant ; for it is well known that many 
minor streams which, at an early day, were useless for 
mechanical purposes, are now valuable for the mill-sites which 
they furnish. In localities where it is necessary to use steam, 
wood, coal or an excellent quahty of peat is usually found in 
abundance and can be procured at very low prices. A large 
proportion of the material used in manutacturing is the product 
of the soil of the West, and only requires short transporta- 
tion to bring it under the manipulation of the operative. 
Wool, flax, hemp, corn, coal, lumber, iron, copper and lead 
are leading productions of our western soil and mines, while 
cotton is readily within reach at small cost for moving. Homes 
are cheap and accessible to persons of moderate means; 
schools are excellent and entirely free ; manhood is estimated 
at its intrinsic worth, stripped of all those fortuitous appli- 
ances which encumber and depress it in older communities ; 
a nobility of sentiment is predominant which, imder all the 



54 turner''8 guide to the rocky mountains. 

circiiiHKtaiices and vicissitudes of life, recognizes in man a 
fellow man, and dares to maintain the potent truth that 
tliough humble, depressed or ev^en debased 

'* A man's a man for a' that." 

Subsistence is plenty, cheap and easily obtained without paying 
tribute to speculators, middle-men or transportation companies ; 
taxes are comparatively insignificant ; poor rates are nearly 
unknown, because there are few paupers ; and, more import- 
ant than all this, the market for all commodities produced is 
at the very door of the mannfactory ! Exchanges are there- 
fore easily and cheaply made. The taste, wants and 
convenience of consumers can at all times be consulted, 
known and accommodated, and the mntual interests of those 
who 2:)roduce and those who consume be continually cultivated 
and subserved. 

But it is argued that in the West there is a deficiency of 
capital wherewith to carry on large manufacturing enterprises, 
and that had we the capital, the experience and skilled labor is 
wanting. Viewed as a present expediency or a sudden emer- 
gency, perhaps there is force in the objections ; prospectively 
considered, no talk could be more maudlin or pnerile. Is it to 
be for a moment snpposed that the capital of the country is 
to remain forever among the bleak and deserted hills and 
mountains of New England, or in the hands of the effete and 
rotten speculators of Wall street ? For a time, it is true, to 
those purse-proud vampires w^ho control a large aggr gation of 
the country's wealth — to those who have much, much may be 
given ; but the center of trade, of manufactures, of caj^ital as 
w^ell as empire is fast approaching the Far West. The agri- 
cultural resources of the prairies, bottoms and plains of the 
lakes, Mississippi, Missouri and cis and trans-mountain states 



turner's guide to the rocky mountains. 55 

and territories are almost infinite ; while the gold and silver 
and the coarser metals enveloped in the gulches, ravines and 
spnrs of the Rocky Mountains and the sierras is, in intrinsic 
value, beyond computation or comprehension. The single 
territory of Colorado, new and sparsely settled as she is to-day, 
has more real wealth within her borders than was ever counted 
in New England and New York put together ; Indiana, Illi- 
nois, Iowa, Missouri, Kansas and Nebraska can duplicate the 
bread-stuffs of the world and have a large surplus on hand, to 
bestow with more than princely munificence upon the starving 
peoples of the old and new world ; the copper of Lake Super- 
ior, the lead of Illinois, Wisconsin and Iowa, the iron of 
Michigan, Missouri and the Rocky Mountains, and the coal 
of the great Mississippi basin are priceless in their values and 
simply render ridiculous all attempts at even approximate 
computation. Capital, indeed ! Why, in a quarter of a cen- 
tury the West will not only be in a condition to command the 
uttermost dollar that is needed, but she will have it in her 
own coffers ; and as for workers of skill and exj^erience, 
where are they to be found, except where the great law ol 
supply and demand draws them ? To this day the West has 
never suffered even a momentary inconvenience from the want 
of expert workers in any branch of mechanical or manufac- 
turing labor which she has undertaken. In fact, it is well 
known that the word has only to be sent forth that they are 
needed, and any reasonable demand will be at once supplied 
by the best of those who now ply their vocations in the work- 
shops and factories of Europe and New England. 

Only eighteen years have passed since the first locomotive 
ever built west of Buffalo, was turned out at the Cuyahoga 
Iron Works, at Cleveland, Ohio. It was constructed under 



56 turner's guide to the rocky mountains. 

tlie superintendency of Mr. Elislia T. Sterling, now deceased, 
and specially and constantly inspected at all stages by Mr. 
Ilarbacli of the pioneer railroad contracting firm of Harbacli, 
Stone & Witt. It was tlie first of eleven engines included in 
one contract and was fully equal in all respects to those after- 
wards made, or to the best ones at that time turned out at the 
ISTew Jersey or Massachusetts shops. Now the best of loco- 
motive engines are built west of the Missouri River, at a 
handsome profit over cost and transportation of eastern ma- 
chines. 

The West has long excelled the East in the quality, style, 

finish and cheapness of railroad passenger, sleeping and pal- 
ace cars. Two palace cars constructed by the Michigan 
Southern & Northern Indiana Railroad Company, last year, 
at Adrian, Michigan, surpass any mechanism of the kind 
hitherto known in the world. 

The carriages and w^agons made at the West are cheaper, 
better and every way more desirable than the eastern ones. 
The article of farm wagons especially has been brought to 
so complete perfection in Indiana, Illinois and Iowa that com- 
petition is not only impossible but ridiculous. The Studeba- 
ker wagon built at South Bend, Indiana, has reached a point 
of perfection never dreamed of at the East, and is closely 
followed by many other western manufacturers. 

The agriculturists of the western states would sooner 
think of going to Greenland for sugar or to the tropics for ice 
than to New England for their implements of husbandry and 
farming machinery. Western brains and western skill have 
culminated in an almost absolute monopoly of this branch of 
industry, and that too without the aid of that species of gov- 
ernmental subsidy commonly called protection. 



tijener's guide to the kocky mountains. 57 

The Watch Factory at Elgin, Illinois, has proved a perfect 
success, as well in the quality of the article produced as in a 
pecuniary point of view. The finest works are made without 
difficulty and with great perfectness ; and Waltham, Massa- 
chusetts, finds a successful rival in the prairies of the West. 

The great Singer Sewing Machine Company have recently 
located their extensive works at South Bend, Indiana, and 
their machinery is henceforth to be driven by the waters of 
the beautiful St. Joseph river. They have no apprehension 
that skilled labor will not be abundant, and very wisely con- 
clude that the proj^er place for making their valuable 
instrument is in the midst of a people sensible enough to use 
and with the ability to pay for it. 

While the woolen mills of 'New England are languishing 
and the proprietors are clamoring for more protection, the 
factories of the West are flourishing and remunerative. The 
quality of the goods manufactured is excellent and the prices 
reasonable. In a few more years eastern mixtures of cotton 
and shoddy will be entirely superseded by honest fabrics of 
domestic wool from western looms. 

In short almost all manufacturing industries are rapidly, qui- 
etly but surely seeking a settlement in those great states of the 
West which are soon to become the centers of population and 
wealth. The tide is already setting away from the boundar- 
ies of New England and the hopeful Yankee may compla- 
cently sit on his native rocks and look in vain for it to roll 
back. It will never come. The fiat of destiny is irrevocable. 
The course of empire is marked and certain. The fertile and 
picturesque valleys of the St. Joseph, the Eock, the Iowa, 
the Cedar, the Des Moines and hundreds of other rivers and 

streams at the West, will be made musical by the whir of the 

8 "^ 



58 TURNER^ S GUIDE TO THE KOOKY MOUNTAINS. 

spindle and the clang of the anvil when ^N'ew England shall 
have been remitted to her original solitude, and it shall have 
been conceded that her meandering rivnlets are no longer 
worth a dam. 



IV. 



THE CAPABILITIES OF THE ¥EST. 



A GE]^EEAL YIEW. 



We have already taken a brief view of the discovery and 
explorations of the country between the lakes and the moun- 
tains and stretching over the western slope to the Pacific. 
It is now proposed to speak briefly and, necessarily, m very 
general terms, of that wide expanse, destined, at a day not far 
in the future, to be the political, agricultural, commercial and 
manufacturing center of the great republic. The nineteenth 
century was apparently foreordained as the period in which 
the political and industrial center of " the globe which we in- 
habit " should be removed from the effete capitals of the 
eastern hemisphere and permanently domiciled in the new 
world. An insignificant island, not so large as a state of first 
magnitude in our American system, has long monopolized the 
trade and emoluments of the great, and, up to this day, little 
known, country of the Indies of the East. Wealth and power, 
interwoven and consolidated with injustice, tyranny and un- 
told oppressions, have been the result. Indeed, so carefully 
and successfully has the game been played that, for years, 
that little island has been able to boast that the sun never 



60 turner's guide to the rocky mountains. 

goes down upon its possessions. What possessions ? How- 
obtained ? Stolen provinces wrenched from honest peoples by 
conquest, cruelty, an intolerable excess of misrule and oppres- 
sion. Might, not right, has ever been the watchword of the 
Briton. With an island containing scarcely territory enough 
to accommodate its " home offices " and furnish domains and 
pleasure grounds for its aristocracy, " Great " Britain, so 
called, in disregard of all facts and in defiance of all harmon- 
ies, has for centuries, until recently, maintained her position 
as the ruler of the seas and grand buccaneer of the oceans. 
Within the last twenty years, however, the world has learned 
to regard the old refrain, " Britannia rules the wave," as the 
lanffuao^e of the brao^^art, and G-reat Britain has been dwarfed 
down from the first of the leading, to a position with the 
second or third class powers. California is now conceded to 
be the gateway to the commerce of the Indies, and the over- 
land route from the Golden Gate to the Atlantic is to bear the 
wealth of the famed Orient to the shores of Europe. The 
whistle of the locomotive is already heard amid the defiles 
of the Kocky Mountains, and the plains are immediately to 
become the pathway, not of one, but of many nations. A 
vast extent of territory, larger than the average of European 
sovereignties, is to be developed and subjected to the uses of 
civilized man. What are the capabilities of that country and 
what its probable future ? 

It is but recently that the fertility, the wonderful capacity 
of the prairies of the West have been appreciated. It is now 
patent to every observant thinker that the granary of the 
world is to be transferred to the interior of our continent. 
For untold centuries, nature in her mysterious and silent 
operations has here been maturing the elements of an agri- 



turner's guide to the rocky mountains. 61 

cultm-al wealth nnequaled on the globe. With slight aid 
from the hand of man, the prairies, plains, valleys and moun- 
tain slopes, stretching from the lakes to the Pacific, are capa- 
ble of feeding the world. The state of Illinois, within the 
present century entirely reclaimed from the rule of aboriginal 
savagism, and even now sparsely settled and in a condition 
of very primitive immaturity, is to-day almost an assurance 
to the civilized world against famine or want. Bread and 
meat from her fat fields fill the warehouses of the sea-board 
and are leading commodities in many of the chief marts of 
Europe ; and yet, with her agricultural productions amounting 
in value to nearly two hundred millions of dollars yearly, Illi- 
nois has only given a small earnest of her coming fruitfulness, 
and is only one of many states, each equal to her in natural 
wealth and the elements of productiveness. Between the 
Mississippi and the lakes, millions of broad acres invite the 
industrious and enterprising worker to plenty and to fortune. 
Between the two great rivers, the Mississippi and the Missouri, 
stretches a wonderful domain, but triflingly developed, capable 
of sustaining an empire in luxury. Lands, unsurpassed in 
productiveness, can be had merely for the asking, where toil is 
sure to be rewarded and independence is certain. West of 
the Missouri and reaching far aw^ay to the base of the great 
mountains, immense prairies, plains and bottoms are in re- 
serve for generations to come, while the mountains themselves, 
in addition to the vast deposits of mineral wealth which crop 
out at every angle, are indented in their length and breadth 
with valleys of inexhaustible fertility. The Pacific slope 
teems with fatness and its agricultural productions have 
already rivaled, nay, surpassed the wealth of the mines. 
Such, in brief, is the great West, a country of infinite possi- 



62 tfrker's gfide to the rocky mountains. 

bilities ; an incipient empire, destined, in the fullness of time, 
to exercise a controlling influence over the destinies of the 
world ! 

The traveler from the lakes to the mountains is apt to un- 
dervalue that great expanse of territory which he traverses. 
He is bewildered by its immensity. Political, social, indus- 
trial and commercial problems which have no parallel and as 
yet have had no solution, crowd upon him and he vainly strives 
to outwork them. He recognizes the prophecy of events but 
he fails to realize its fulfillment, and it is only when he 
observes the ever increasting tide of humanity rushing into 
the wilds and establishing out-posts of civilization that he 
catches glimpses of the golden future. He sees the popula- 
tion of the continent, which in 1854 was but fortv millions, 
augmented, by the well ascertained rate of increase, to be 
eighty-eight millions in 1900, and to one hundred and seven- 
ty-six millions in 1925. A large proportion of this mighty 
throng he finds domiciled upon the three millions of square 
miles over which the flag of our country now floats. The 
plains and the mountains are teeming with intelligence, in- 
dustry and busy life. He beholds new cities, ncAv marts of 
trade, new industries. A dozeii iron roads, instead of one, 
span the continent and carry from ocean to ocean the com- 
merce of half the world, with incredible speed. The political 
center of our country has passed the Missouri and the capital 
of the nation rears its dome almost in sight of the snow-cap- 
ped peaks of the West. This is not a picture so far fanciful 
as to be beyond the realm of probability ; it is leased u23on 
reason and drawn from exj)erience. The full conclusion 
which we have a right to draw from the logic of the past, 
would, indeed, add much to our prophecy of the future ; but 



TURNER S GUIDE TO THE ROCKY MOU]!^ArN'S. 63 

when moderation itself assumes the appearance of hyperbole 
it is better, perhaps, to remit the subject to the development 
of time. Had some seer of twenty years ago written a pro- 
phetic history of the events which have matured from that 
time to this day, he would have been set down as a visionary 
enthusiast or a fool ; and, very probably, had he ventured so 
far as to have predicted that, before 1870, travelers would 
pass from 'New York to San Francisco in a week, by railroad, 
he would have been considered a fit subject for treatment at 
the nearest lunatic asylum. 

Ninety-two years have passed since the independence of 
our country was declared. For nearly one-fifth of that time 
our government has been engaged in foreign or domestic war. 
At the outset we had only thirteen states, sparsely settled by 
less than three millions of people ; the valley of the Mohawk 
was then the far west ; western New York was Indian terri- 
tory and to a great extent unexplored ; the first white settler 
had not penetrated to the banks of the Ohio ; the north-west- 
ern territory was entirely under aboriginal rule ; the great 
valleys of the Mississippi and the Missouri had only been par- 
tially revealed to the furtive glance of the hasty adventm-er ; 
the country beyond, the plains, valleys and mountains had, to 
the public mind, only a sort of fabled existence ; the Floridas 
were dependencies of Spain and the Louisiana territory was 
held and governed by France ; Texas and California belonged 
to Mexico, which was a Spanish province ; steamboats, rail- 
roads and telegraphs were unheard of and beyond even the 
imagination of man ; the city of New York, now the metrop- 
olis of America and the second commercial center of the 
world, was only a paltry town of some fifteen thousand inhab- 
itants ; Philadelphia had less than thirty thousand people ; 



64: turner's guide to the rocky mountains. 

Brooklyn, the third city of the present day was a small 
villao:e of Dutch market-men ; Cincinnati was an Indian 
camping place and Chicago a morass, uninhabited even by 
savages. Behold now the change ! Behold, and then predict 
who can, the achievements of the century to come. With an 
hundred stars glittering in the American diadem ; with vales 
and mountains inhabited by hundreds of millions of indus- 
trious, free and hapjDy people ; with the wealth of the moun- 
tains revealed ; with all her varied and almost infinite 
resources developed, the great republic will stand before the 
world without a peer, unparalleled in the past and without 
fear of rivalry in the futm-e. The " mother country," in de- 
crepitude and decay will then lean upon her vigorous offspring 
for sustenance and support ; and sister nations will ask and 
modestly receive protection from the controlling power of the 
earth. 



V. 



THE GTJTDE. 



FROM CLEYELAISTD TO CHICAGO. 



It was late in the year 1852 wlien the railroad from Cleveland 
to Toledo was so far completed as to admit of the transit of 
passengers. This was the last link required to complete the 
chain of rail communication between the sea-board and Chi- 
cago. This latter city at that time contained not over 55,000 
people and Cleveland had not far from 20,000. Chicago now 
numbers her quarter of a million and Cleveland has reached 
nearly to 100,000. The traveler of that day will not fail to 
remember that the passage of the Maumee at Toledo was 
tedious and difficult. There was no bridge. The '' middle 
ground " had not been improved and utilized. Rude ferry 
boats and a dismantled hulk of the old steamboat Clinton 
were used for purposes of transfer. Sometimes hours were 
consumed in making the passage from the cars to the hotels 
in Toledo. This road, the " Cleveland & Toledo,'' passes 
through the thriving and picturesque village of Elyeia, in 
Lorain County, and thence to Oberlin, an important and well 
known seat of learning. From Oberlin it passes to J^orwalk 

in Huron County, a place of considerable importance, and 
9 



66 turner's guide to the rocky mountains. 

thence through Fremont to Toledo, 113 miles from Cleve- 
land. It is one of the best roads to be found in the country, 
and is managed in a model manner. It was at an early day 
under the superintendency of E. B. Phillips, Esq., now Pres- 
ident of the Michigan Southern & Northern Indiana road, 
and up to this day can show a record almost entirely unob- 
scured by accident or detention. 

Oberlin is thirty-four miles west of Cleveland, and has a 
population, exclusive of students, of about 3,000. The college 
here was founded in 1834, in the midst of a forest and with 
no surroundings at all prepossessing. For many years Ober- 
lin, because of its entire and persistent adherence to the anti- 
slavery doctrines of the day, was extremely and very gener- 
ally odious. Amid all discouragements, however, it held its 
way, steadily increasing in population and influence, and giv- 
ing to the world, year by year, well educated and sterling 
men and women. The institution is open to both male and 
female students, among whom, so far as education is concerned, 
there are no inequalities. It has several distinct departments, 
occupies seven large buildings and has an annual attendance 
of about one thousand students. From the commencement, 
no distinction in any regard has been made between students 
of different creeds, nations, bloods or colors. Oberlin, before 
the war, was always in the van of anti-slavery efforts, and 
never had a first rate reputation in the extreme South. 

ISToRWALK is the county seat of Huron county, fifty-six 
miles from Cleveland, and has a population of nearly six 
thousand. It is one of the oldest cities of northern Ohio and 
has long been noted for beauty of location, the enterprise and 
intelligence of its inhabitants and all of those concomitants 
which go to make up a desirable place of business or residence. 



FEOM CLEVELAND TO CHICAGO. "" 

It contains the connty buildings and several educational insti- 
tutions, among which are the Norwalk Institute and a female 
seminary. Its mechanical industry is considerable, and the 
surrounding country healthy and productive. 

The citv of Toledo is 113 miles by railroad west from 
Cleveland' The population in 1840 was only 1,232. In 1860 
it had reached 13,768 and now contains probably not far 
from 20,000 people. It is an important commercial town, 
possessing a fine harbor and enjoying excellent railroad tacili- 
ties. During its early settlement it was proverbially un- 
healthy, but it has outgrown that impediment and is now 
almost noted for its healthiness. Toledo is accessible to 
6 000 miles of lake shore, and by canal is connected with 
Cincinnati, and EvansviUe, Indiana. By railroad it as in daily 
communication with the chief cities of the East, South and 
West. Its trade is large and constantly increasing. A large 
proportion of the travel from the East reaches this point by 
what is called the South Shore Route. By adopting this 
route the difficulties, annoyances and extra expense ot passing 
through a foreign country (Canada) are avoided, and time 
economized. The traveler has also an opportunity of seeing 
several fine American cities and of becoming acquainted with 
an agricultural region of great fertiUty. It is decidedly the 
favorite and best route to and from the West. 

From Toledo the Michigan Southern & Northern Indiaufl 
Railroad runs 242 miles to Chicago. This is perhaps the 
most perfect railroad in the Union. It traverses an excellent 
and well cultivated country, nmning through the beautiful 
valley of the St. Joseph from Hillsdale, in Michigan, to the 
western part of St. Joseph county, Indiana, and thence by 
the shores of Lake Michigan, to Chicago. Its management 



68 turner's guide to the rocky mountains. 

is entirely unexceptionable and its appointments not only ex- 
cellent but magnificent. The palace cars upon its day line, 
running without change from Chicago to Cleveland and the 
reverse, are unequaled in point of luxury in the world ; 
while its night trains are furnished with the best sleeping 
cars which art can construct or money procure. Its capital 
stock and bonded debt represent a capital of over twenty 
millions of dollars, and the total number of miles annually 
run by all trains would reach more than ninety-five times 
around the globe ! The track owned, maintained and oper- 
ated by this company is as follows : 

Toledo to Chicago, old line. 

Main track north of 22d street, Chicago, 

Toledo to Elkhart, air line. 

Air Line Junction to Detroit, 

Adrian to Monroe Junction, 

Palmyra Junction to Jackson, 

Side tracks, _ _ - _ _ 

Total, ----- 578.27 " 

E. B. Phillips, Esq., is President; Charles F. ITatch, Esq., 
Superintendent, and C. P. Leland, Esq., General Passenger 
Agent of this road. 

The Michigan Southern and Northern Indiana possesses 
the very great advantage of having, for over one hundred 
and thirty-three miles, two separate and distinct tracks, viz.: 
from Toledo, Ohio, to Elkhart, Indiana. They are known as 
the old line and the air line, and are equally excellent. By 
reason of these two roads the probabilities of accidents are 
greatly decreased and dispatch secured. From Toledo to 
Chicago, over the old line of this road, the traveler passes 



242.06 miles. 


1.18 




133.20 




61.51 




33.60 




44.40 




62.32 





FROM CLEVELAND TO CHICAGO. 69 

through the main towns of Adrian, Hudson, Hillsdale, Jones- 
ville, Coldwater, Sturgis and White Pigeon, in Michigan, and 
Elkhart, Mishawaka, South Bend, Laporte and Calumet, in 
Indiana. 

Adri^vn, the county seat of Lenawee County, Michigan, is 
thirty-three miles from Toledo, and has a population of about 
10,000. It is situated on a tributary of the Raisin river, and 
has an inland trade of considerable importance. The Detroit, 
and the Monroe and Jackson branches of the M. S. & 'N. I. 
road diverge from this point. The manufacturing interests of 
Adrian are in a healthy condition and fast increasing. It has 
excellent schools, good hotels and many iine churches ; and is 
rated as the third city in the state of Michigan. 

Hudson is a small but growing town in Lenawee county. 

Hillsdale county, Michigan, containing some of the highest 
land in the peninsula, is the fruitful mother of rivers. Here 
rises the St. Joseph of lake Michigan, the St. Joseph of the 
Maumee, the Raisin and the Kalamazoo. Several other small 
streams rise in, or traverse the county. The surface is gener- 
ally rolling, with abrupt swells, which may, perhaps, properly 
be called hills. The soil is rich and productive. In several 
places fine quarries of a very good quality of sandstone crop 
out, well adapted for building — almost the only ones to be 
found in the lower peninsula. Lime and iron ore are found, 
though not in large quantities. Wheat, corn, potatoes and 
wool are the chief agricultural productions. The village of 
Hillsdale is the county seat. It is very pleasantly situated 
near the outlet of Baw Beese lake, and is noted for the 
romantic beauty of its surroundings. It enjoys a large and 
increasing trade, and its manufactures are in a thriving con- 
dition. Hillsdale College, a large and esteemed institution. 



70 turner's guide to the rocky mountains. 

under the control of the Freewill Baptists, is located here. 
Both male and female students are admitted. 

The village of Jonesville is situated about four miles 
north-west of Hillsdale, on the Michigan Southern and North- 
ern Indiana Railroad and on the St. Joseph river, which even 
here, furnishes a very good water power. It is, properly, the 
first village in the valley descending the river. Its popu- 
lation is estimated at nearly two thousand, and noted for 
intelligence and enterprise. It contains several manufactories, 
among which is an extensive woolen factory. 

The city of Coldwater, the seat of justice of Branch 
county, Michigan, is situated on the east branch of the river 
of the same name, and not far from Coldwater lake. Mr. 
Clark, in his Gazetteer of Michigan, says that " this is one of 
the most beautiful and pleasantly located towns in the coun- 
try, being located in the center of a farming region that is 
unsurpassed for fertility and productiveness, and inhabited by 
an enterprising and refined class of people, w^ho evidently 
take great pride in rendering their city neat and attractive." 
It has a population of over five thousand. The celebrated 
Loomis' Battery went from here, and the six guns with which 
they did such splendid service have been returned to the city, 
and are there held as mementos of patriotism and valor. 
Aside from the elegant public school, built at the cost of over 
$30,000, the public buildings are unimportant. There is 
located here a very fine " Young Ladies' Seminary," which 
is performing a work of great usefulness. Hon. Anson Bur- 
lingame, who has recently attained to a world-wide celebrity 
by his connection with the Chinese Embassy, is a native of 
the township of Coldwater and spent his early boyhood there. 

Sturgis is a thriving prairie town of about 2,000 people. 



FROM CLEVELAI^D TO CHICAGO. 71 

surrounded by a countrj renowned for its productiveness. 
The Micliioran & Indiana Railroad now in course of construe- 
tion crosses the Southern Michigan here. 

White Pigeon is located near the Indiana line and is the 
southern terminus of the St. Joseph Yalley Railroad, running 
north to Kalamazoo. Pigeon river flows through the town, 
and affords good and abundant water power. Considerable 
manufacturing is done here, and the toM^l is in a healthy and 
flourishing condition. The population is nearly or quite two 
thousand. 

We now^ pass into Elkhart county, Indiana, the population 
of which is about 30,000. The county contains 472 square 
miles, or 302,080 acres of land. The number of acres 
returned for taxation is 291,830, which shows the waste land, 
village plats, &c., to be but a small fraction over three per 
cejit. The last property valuation, as returned, is as follows : 

Real Estate, ------ $4,604,163 

Personal Estate, - - . - - - 4,101,493 



Total for taxation, - - - $8,Y05,656 

But these figures fail entirely to give the actual value of 
the property in the county. It does not include a large 
amount of property exempt from taxation, and the taxable is 
only an approximation to the real value. 

There are nine villages in the county, viz. : Goshen, Elk- 
hart, Middlebury, Bristol, Millersburg, Waterford, Wakarusha, 
New Paris and Benton. The first two are important towns ; 
the others are thriving points for local trade. 

The St. Joseph river enters the state of Indiana and the 
county of Elkhart near the north-east corner of Washington 
township, and runs south-westerly, through Bristol to Elkhart ; 



72 turner's guide to the rocky mountains. 

thence, nearly due west to St. Joseph county. The Elkhart 
river enters the county near the north-east corner of Benton 
township, and runs nearly west, through the village of Benton 
to Jackson township ; thence it pursues a north-westerly course 
through Waterford and Goshen, in Elkhart township, across 
Jefferson and Concord townships, to Elkhart, where it enters 
the St. Joseph. It is a fine stream, of considerable volume, 
and has several valuable mill sites upon it. At Goshen it is 
made available for manufacturing purposes to a large extent. 
The Little Elkhart passes through Middlebury and joins the 
St. Joseph at Bristol. Christian creek rises in Michigan, 
enters Elkhart county at the noi'th-west corner of Oseolo town- 
ship, and runs thence nearly south to Elkhart, where it falls 
into the St. Joseph. Turkey creek enters into the Elkhart 
river some four miles south of Goshen. Baugo creek and 
its tributaries serve to water much of the west part of 
the county. 

The Michigan Southern and ]^orthern Indiana Eailroad 
touches the county in York township, runs south-westerly 
through Bristol and Elkhart to the west line of Baugo town- 
ship, where it enters St. Joseph county. The air-line branch 
has its western terminus at Elkhart, and runs almost due 
south-east, through Goshen and Millersburg, to the north-east 
corner of Benton township, a distance of about twenty miles, 
where it leaves the county. 

The soil of Elkhart county is invariably of a most excellent 
quality, and well adapted to the production of fruits, vege- 
tables, and all kinds of grains and grasses. The climate is 
good, the water excellent, and no county in the state of 
Indiana stands higher in every desirable respect. 

Elkhart is an important railroad point. Here the air and 



FROM CLEVELAND TO CHICAGO. Y3 

the old line of the Michigan Southern and I^orthern Indiana 
road join, it being by the former 133, and by the latter 142 
miles to Toledo. The distance to Chicago is 100 miles. The 
only eating house upon the line is located here. It is in great 
favor with the public. Its hotel accommodations are com- 
plete. 

Goshen is the county seat of Elkhart county. It is situated 
on the east bank of the Elkhart river, and about eighty rods 
from the lower point of Elkhart Prairie. This prairie is about 
five miles long by three miles in width, and is noted for the 
depth and richness of its soil.. The site of the town was 
formerly oak openings: 

In 1860 Goshen had 2,042 inhabitants ; at the present time 
the number does not vary much from 3,500. The town is in 
a healthy condition, and increasing rapidly in wealth and im- 
portance. The Michigan Southern and Northern Indiana 
Air-line Kailroad runs through the western part of Goshen. 

There are several towns on the air-line east of Goshen, 
some of which are important and thriving, but a large propor- 
tion of the country is quite undeveloped, but the immigration 
induced by the railroad will very soon bring it under cultiva- 
tion. The soil is good and excellent timber abounds. 

St. Joseph is one of the most important counties in Indiana. 

The face of the county is handsomely diversified, and is in 

every respect well adapted to all kinds of agricultural industry. 

The soil may be divided into four kinds, viz. : the light, sandy 

soil of the original oak openings, or barrens ; the black, sandy 

loam of the thick woods ; the deep, vegetable mold of the 

prairies ; and the natural meadows or marshes. The former 

of these is quick, easily tilled, and is highly prized for the 

culture of fruit and for horticultural and gardening purposes. 
10 



74 turner's guide to the rocky mountains. 

It readily responds to the application of fertilizers and to all 
the appliances of good husbandry. It is no more easily 
affected by drouth than the prairie or the thick woods ; and 
seldom suffers from excessive rains. The little labor and 
expense required to bring it from a state of nature under cul- 
tivation, secured for it the favorable notice of the early settlers 
of the county; and many of the first and best farms are 
located upon it. The densely vi^ooded sections of the county, 
or as those localities are technically called, the "thick woods," 
present a soil noted for its strength, certainty and durability. 
The original growth of the timber upon these lands has been 
the marvel of all observers ; and it has never failed to be a 
token of the great producing capabilities of the soil when cul- 
tivated in the ordinary crops of the farm. 

The prairies are Terre Coupee, Greene's, Portage, Harris, 
and Sumption's. Terre Coupee is much the largest, being 
about nine miles long and an average of three in width. It 
is quite level and exceedingly fertile. The others are more 
rolling ; but none of them differ essentially from the ordinary 
prairies of the West, excepting, perhaps, in the high state of 
cidtivation to which careful management has brought them. 
The marshes are quite numerous, but none of them of much 
magnitude, except the celebrated Kankakee, w^hich commences 
two miles from the St. Joseph river, near South Bend. It is 
but a few years since these lands began to be prized at some- 
thing near their real value. At present, however, under a 
proper system of drainage, they have become very desirable. 
In many localities the coarse marsh grass and useless weeds 
have given way to tields cultivated with wheat, corn or other 
crops, or to })asture, or meadow lands tliickly set in timothy 
or blue grass. The Kanhahee marsh, or perhaps more pro- 



FROM CLEVELAND TO CHICAGO. Y5 

perly, the Yallej of the Kankakee, in particular, presents a 
remarkable illustration of the benefits of judicious drainage. 
Here, on four square miles of land, or about two thousand 
five hundred acres, there has been constructed over twenty 
miles of ditch, averaging eight feet in width by four feet in 
depth. These ditches have an average fall of about four feet 
to the mile. Three-quarters of this drainage is through the 
outlet of the Kankakee lake into the St. Joseph river, some 
two miles distant, and more than forty feet below the surface 
of the lake and the surrounding country. Along here is the 
dividing line between the waters flowing into the St. Lawrence 
on the one hand and into the Gulf of Mexico on the other. 
Indeed, so equal is the poise here, that it is frequently impos- 
sible to tell in which direction the water is inclined to run, 
when unobstructed or unassisted by art. Some years ago, it 
is said, the outlet of the Kankakee lake was by the way of 
the river of that name towards the south-west ; and old Gov- 
ernment maps make the head of the river in the lake. It is 
also asserted, upon what seems to be abundant evidence, that 
by the breaking away of an old beaver dam, the waters of the 
lake were diverted to the St. Joseph and the lakes. 

The valley of the Kankakee is ascertained to be a mine of 
useful wealth and capable of furnishing an inexhaustible su]3- 
ply of fuel at low prices. The following from LeaviWs Peat 
Journal is interesting in this connection : 

" There is one peat bog in Indiana over sixty miles long, 
with an average width of three miles, extending from South 
Bend to the Illinois line, along both sides of the Kankakee 
river. It is possible, at small expense, to lower the bed of 
this river below the marsh, so as to drain the peat ten or 
fifteen feet deep. In places it is known to be over forty feet 



76 turner's guide to the rocky mountains. 

deep. The amount of fuel in this bog is perfectly incalculable, 
or rather incomprehensible, to any ordinary class of minds. 
South of the Kankakee, the peat bogs between there and the 
Wabash are simply immense, and they are traversed by three 
railroads. 

" The only objection we ever heard to the prairie-marsh 
peat is that it is generally too light, porous, spongy ; too much 
of it un decomposed fibre of coarse grass and weeds to make 
good fuel when dried. That objection is all obviated in just 
such peat when worked in a condensing machine. 

"]S"umerous tests have been made with this class of peat 
from all the extreme north-western states, which prove that it 
is highly combustible, and leaves a very small per cent, of ash. 
It is the very material needed in all the prairie towns to make 
gas ; for that it is excellent." 

MiSHAWAKA is situated on both banks of the St. Joseph, 
within about a mile of the most southern point of that river. 
The site is one of very great natural beauty, and art and 
taste have added largely to its original loveliness. On the 
south side there is a gentle upward slope from the river bank, 
far off beyond the limits of the town. Here, embowered 
beneath a profusion of natural and cultivated trees, shrubbery 
and flowers, is built the main portion of the town. On the 
opposite side the banks are more precipitous, forming a high 
table of land, seemingly designed by nature for its present 
uses. The hydraulic power afforded by the St. Joseph river, 
at this place, is excellent. 

South Bend, the most important city in northern Indiana, 
and destined undoubtedly, when its great facilities are even 
moderately developed, to become one of the largest manufac- 
turing and business centers of the West, is situated on both 



FROM CLEVELAND TO CHICAGO. 77 

banks of the river St. Joseph, in Portage township, near a 
point where the river suddenly turns from a nearly west course 
and stretches away with a rapid current, northward, into the 
state of Michigan. The site of the city is extremely pictur- 
esque and beautiful. On the west bank of the river an abrupt 
bluff rises to the height of some forty feet, thence, for a dis- 
tance varying from one-fourth to three-quarters of a mile, 
extends a beautiful table of gravelly land, eminently fitted for 
purposes of building. Then ensues another elevation, of 
some ten or twelve feet, with a succession of fine, dry and 
eligible building ground. This is the old town of South 
Bend. The location is elevated and commanding, and the 
character of the soil and the excellent facilities for perfect 
drainage, are a perpetual guarantee of healthy and attractive 
places of residence, and dry, hard and durable thoroughfares 
for locomotion. The rich, sandy loam, of which the soil is 
composed, forms abundant nutriment for the healthy and 
rapid growth of innumerable shade and ornamental trees, 
indigenous to the locality, among which may be mentioned 
the sugar and silver maple, the elm, the sycamore, the wal- 
nut, and the oak ; while gardens are filled with thrifty apple, 
pear, peach, plum, cherry and quince trees, and an abundance 
of the smaller fruits. The streets are wide and regular, 
crossing each other at right angles, and at convenient inter- 
vals. The grades are uniform, with a sufficient fall toward 
the river to secure perfect drainage, and afford a never-failing 
auxiliary to the natural healthfulness of the place. The busi- 
ness houses are capacious and convenient, while many of 
them, by their imposing appearance, impart a metropolitan 
air to the city. The private residences, many of which are 
of brick, are generally neat and tasteful, and frequently illus- 



78 turner's guide to the rocky mountains. 

trate some of the most modern and artistic achievements in 
architecture. 

On the east side a wide and rich bottom stretches away 
from the margin of the river, with a gentle acclivity, until it is 
lost in the romantic hillsides bordering upon the domain of 
I^otre Dame du Lac. This, until recently, was the village of 
Lowell. It is now a part of the city. Through the bottom, 
and sufficiently elevated to be secure from inundations, runs 
a capacious race, affording a large number of excellent mill 
sites, and abundant hydraulic power. Here are also many 
fine business localities and desirable lots for private dwellings. 
The time cannot be far distant when this now sparsely settled 
delta will be the industrial center, not only of the city, but of 
northern Indiana. 

Nature has here been lavish of those advantages which only 
require the developing hand of human enterprise to yield rich 
and sure returns. Here the whole machinery of Lowell or 
Lawrence might be driven without intermission, and still 
there would be power loft for new comers and new enter- 
prises — not among the rugged hills and rocky mountains of 
ISTew England, where the chief "agricultural productions" 
are school-houses and men, but in the very lap of luxuriance 
and plenty, and at the doorway of the capacious market of the 
great West. 

The population of South Bend, including the late village of 
Lowell, was, in 1840, according to the census of that year, 
Y28 ; in 1850, it was 1,653 ; and in 1860 it had reached 3,832. 
A liberal and fair estimate of its present population results in 
about 9,250, which is probably within bounds and not far 
from exact. At the present rate of increase, and with the 
unusual inducements for men of capital, business or leisure to 



FROM CLEVELA:^D to CHICAGO. 79 

settle here, it is quite safe to say that the census of 1870 will 
show a population of nearly 15,000. 

In 1842 the South Bend Manufacturing Company was char- 
tered, and in the following year the company built a substan- 
tial dam across the St. Joseph river, which affords an 
abinidant and almost exhaustless hydraulic power, and which 
has contributed largely toward the permanent prosperity of 
the place. 

The first determined effort at utilizing the great water 
power afforded by the St. Joseph, at South Bend, was made 
by Joseph Fellows, Garrett Y. Dennison, Thomas W. Alcott, 
James McKown, William J. Worth, and John Yan Buren, 
all of the state of I^Tew York. Most of these men will be 
recognized as ha\^ng figured largely in public life ; Judge 
McKown, General Worth, and John Yan Buren, especially, 
have since been widely known. The property which they 
purchased is now owned by the South Bend Hydraulic Com- 
pany, a corporation with a capital of $100,000, composed of 
live men who are now engaged in enlarging the capacity of 
the power and perfecting it for an almost unlimited use. This 
company has a right to the use of one-half the water flowing 
in the river, which is equivalent, at a very moderate estimate, 
to a sixty-horse power for one hundred water wheels. They 
have a race five hundred yards in length, and it is now in pro- 
cess of improvement. When completed it will be one thou- 
sand yards long, one hundred feet wide, and seven feet deep. 
The fall of the river, over the dam, is eight feet on the west 
side and nine feet on the east side. The fall from the head 
to the mouth of the race is twenty-eight inches. Such a 
hydraulic power in IN'ew England would ensure the building 
of a city of fifty thousand inhabitants in two years. It would 



80 turner's guide to the rocky mountains. 

set the capitalists of Boston half crazj in an hour ; and agitate 
the " hub of creation " to the extremity of every spoke. But 
when it is considered that here this power is, in reality and 
for every practical purpose, worth one hundred per cent, more 
than it would be if located in any part of New England, who 
can compute its value ? But when we go further and state 
the fact, which exists to-day, that this is but one-half of the 
power now in perpetual motion at South Bend, and the addi- 
tional one that for a distance of more than one hundred and 
fifty miles, the St. Joseph is competent to duplicate the whole 
of it every five miles, the senses are astounded, and every 
attempt at computation becomes not only futile but farcical. 
It requires no elfort of the imagination, but only the exercise 
of those more sober and reflective faculties which enter into 
the mental composition of the successful business man, to see 
that the time is approaching — that it is now almost here — 
when this valley must and will be an industrial bee-hive, un- 
surpassed in any section of the land. 

One-half of this immense power is owned by the South 
Bend Manufacturing Company, alluded to above. Their race 
extends over one thousand feet, on the west side of the river, 
and every water lot upon it, but two or three, is already occu- 
pied. Right there, under the hill, in those unpretending mills 
and factories, lie the main-springs of the prosperity of this 
infant city. AVars may come, the elements may be unpropi- 
tious, crops may fail — no matter ! The prosperity of the city 
is not retarded. The hum of industry goes on. Labor reaps 
its full reward ; capital is safely employed and richly remun- 
erated, and wealth, with all its comforts and blessings, pours 
in, in an uninterrupted stream. 

All branches of manufacture are in a healthy condition. 



FROM CLEYELAin) TO CHICAGO. 81 

The demand for all articles produced more than equals the 
supply. Sales are easily made, and with little outlay for com- 
missions. Wages are liberal and promptly paid. Living is 
cheap, and operatives, as well as employers, are thriving and 
independent. 

When the charter expired, in 1856, and the Bank of the 
State of Indiana was incorporated, a branch was organized 
here with a capital of $100,000, afterwards increased to 
$150,000, which continued until the First E'ational Bank, 
with a capital of the latter amount, took its place. In addi- 
tion, there is now in operation a branch of the Bank of 
the State of Indiana. Under the late free banking law of 
the state, the Bank of South Bend was located here by 
some Eastern capitalists. It was little more than a redemp- 
tion office, but was one of the few of its class that never sus- 
pended. 

The property of the city is valued for taxation at $2,522,977. 
This is less than one-half its actual value, which may be safely 
put at $6,000,000. The levy for 1867 is only about sixty 
cents on the dollar. 

'No other city in the state presents so varied and excellent 
facilities for the training and education of youth, of both sexes, 
as South Bend ; and probably these facilities are not excelled 
in any part of the continent. As early as 1832, when the 
chief part of the inhabitants of the valley were the red men of 
the forest — the Mianiis and the Pottawatomies — the Kev. 
Stephen T. Badin visited the sj)ot now known as l^otre Dame, 
and, with an eye schooled to the appreciation of the beautiful 
in nature, became impressed with the loveliness of the situa- 
tion. The gently undulating surface, the groves of magnifi- 
cent oaks and other trees of the forest, the natural fertility of 
11 



82 turner's guide to the rocky mountains. 

the soil, tlie abundant growth of native grasses, the profusion 
of wild flowers, the crystal lakes, and generally all that could 
contribute to the composition of a scene of rural beauty and 
almost absolute enchantment, attracted the attention of Father 
Badin and became a prophecy, in his mind, of future advan- 
tages and pious uses. He, therefore, lost no time in becoming 
the owner of a magnificent domain, of some eleven hundred 
acres, and with a zealous devotion to the Catholic Church, 
resolved to dedicate it to the education of youth. With him 
to resolve was to execute. He placed the title in the hands 
of the ruling authorities of the Church, and in a few years it 
was transferred to the " right man in the right place," the 
Yery Rev. E. Sorin, priest of the congregation of the Holy 
Cross, who, with a few brothers of the same order, had then 
recently come to America from France. In 1842, Father 
Sorin (with his confreres) took possession, and, with that pious 
determination and indomitable energy which enter largely 
into the character of this extraordinary man, he immediately 
commenced that system of improvements which has, in a 
quarter of a century, resulted in placing "IS'otre Dame du 
Lac " very far towards the head of the educational institu- 
tions in America. 

The " University of Notre Dame " was incorporated by the 
Legislature of Indiana in 1844. It is situated on a table of 
land elevated nearly a hundred feet above the St. Joseph 
river, and distant from the river and the center of South 
Bend but a little over one mile. It is on the banks of two 
lovely lakes of clear, cool spring water. On one hand Arca- 
dian groves of native forest trees, adorned by all the appli- 
ances of cultivated art, invite to their cooling shades and 
silent retreats; on the other a landscape of sylvan beauty, 



FROM CLEVELAND TO CHICAGO. 83 

rarely surpassed, stretches as far as the eye can reach. The 
college is of most liberal proportions, and of that subdued, 
though tasteful style of architecture, eminently fitted fo% its 
uses. An air of quietude and neatness pervades every part, 
not only of the college but of the whole domain. It is con- 
ducted by the Fathers of the Congregation of the Holy Cross, 
assisted by a number of competent lay professors in the 
various branches of study. The whole is very ably presided 
over by the Kev. W. Corby, Father Superior. These edu- 
cators, with a profound appreciation of the keynotes of the 
human mind, have successfully elaborated, and, with admir- 
able tact and ability, now conduct an institution which is not 
only valuable but attractive. Here is no rude coercion, no 
fear of punishment, no abnegation of individualism, but all 
are kept within the line of duty by a noble sense of honor and 
justice. A healthy emulation is excited by various devices 
which appeal to the higher and nobler faculties of the youth- 
ful mind. 

The University has recently, in addition to the land above 
spoken of, purchased a tract of about thirteen hundred acres 
in Harris township, and they also own a fine peat bed on 
the Kankakee, which they have commenced working. A 
trial of this peat shows it to be superior in every respect, as 
fuel, to the best wood. 

The JSTorthern Indiana College, a Methodist institution, is 
located at South Bend, at the west end of Washington street, 
just one mile from the court house. Its position is easy of 
access, healthy, and afibrds a fine view of the city and sur- 
rounding country. 

St. Mary's Academy, under the direction of the Sisters of 
the Holy Cross, and devoted to the education of females, is 



84: turner's guide to the rocky MOUNTAESrS. 

pleasantlj situated upon the east bank of tlie St. Joseph 
river, not far from one mile below South Bend. This is 
excl\isively a boarding school. It has already earned for 
itself a high reputation and as a consequence is very liberally 
patronized, both by Catholics and Protestants. The buildings 
are large and well adaj^ted to the purposes for which they 
were constructed. Hot and cold baths attached to the sleep- 
ing apartments form a peculiarity which may well be copied 
elsewhere. Only one wing of the edifice, as it is designed to 
be, has been yet erected. There is ample accommodation for 
several hundred pupils. It has just entered upon its thirteenth 
year of usefulness. All branches of a liberal female educa- 
tion are taught, including vocal and instrumental music and 
the modern languages. Its proximity to ]N^otre Dame, it 
being less than a mile distant, is a great convenience to 
parents having children at both institutions. 

St. Joseph's Academy is an institution for the education of 
females, and is situated in the city of South Bend. It is an 
elegant edifice of large proportions, and is under the manage- 
ment of the sisters of the Holy Cross. This school is intended 
for the accommodation of externs, or day scholars, in which 
it differs entirely from St. Mary's, where only boarders are 
taken. It has been in operation only about three years, but 
has already won a large share of public favor. 

St. Patrick's Select School is situated in South Bend, con- 
tiguous to the church of the same name. It is a Catholic 
school, of the parochial order, and not incorporated. It was 
organized in 1866, by the present principal. Rev. P. P. 
Cooney. It is intended for boys. This school is in a thriving 
condition, and enjoys a substantial patronage. 

Public schools are kept in the several wards of the city 



FROM CLEYELA]SnD TO CHICAGO. 85* 

throughout the year. There are in addition several private 
English and G-erman schools. 

The first newspaper west of Detroit and north of Logans- 
port was published at South Bend, in 1831, bj Hon. John D. 
Defrees, the present Superintendent of Public Printing at 
Washington. It was called the North-Western Pioneer. 
Hon. Schuyler Colfax, Speaker of the House of Pepresenta- 
tives and candidate for the Yice-Presidency, resides here. The 
South Bend Gas Light Company have their works nearly 
completed and the city will soon be lighted with gas. These 
works, erected by Messrs. Murray, Baker & Walker of Fort 
Wayne, constitute a model of their kind, and are well worthy 
the inspection of others contemplating similar structures. 
The Singer Sewing Machine Company have recently located 
here, and are now engaged in erecting very extensive work- 
shops. Early in the year 1869 they will have in operation 
the largest manufactory of the kind in the world. Altogether, 
South Bend is an interesting city and should not escape the 
notice of those seeking locations in the West. 

To say that the St. Joseph river in Michigan and Indiana 
is a beautiful stream of water, and that the country through 
which it flows is a very pleasant and productive valley of 
land would be a truthful generalization not likely to be dis- 
puted, but equally applicable to many other rivers and their 
surroundings. Indeed, it may be doubted whether the eye 
of the poet or of the painter would here meet with that satis- 
faction easily to be found in more ungenial climes and amid 
more rugged formations. To the eye of the utilitarian, 
however, he who seeks for immediate and more practical uses, 
very little is here wanting to insure the highest gratification. 
Almost from its very source, the river has such a volume of 



86 turner's guide to the rooky mountains. 

water and such a gradual but decided fall, as to afford a suc- 
cession of valuable locations for the development of hydraulic 
power ; and the country which it at once waters and drains, 
though in many places highly picturesque and beautiful, is 
noted more than for all else, as a section where rural abund- 
ance is almost spontaneous. Perhaps no valley in the land, 
of equal size, is capable of yielding more sure or more ample 
rewards to the industrious worker, or offers greater facilities 
for the support of a dense population of enterprising people. 
This fact cannot but be apparent to even the casual observer. 
The numerous and large fields of all the cereals adapted to 
the latitude bear ample testimony to the quality of the soil ; 
natural meadows, thickly set in the rich native grasses and 
affording abundant and excellent herbage ; orchards laden 
with their pomological treasures, gladdening the sight and 
tempting the appetite ; gardens rejoicing in succulent luxur- 
iance ; natural forests of useful and ornamental trees, all 
these and much more, give to the landscape an air not only of 
plenty but of absolute profusion. Add to all this the fact of 
easy culture, speedy and cheap transportation and a good and 
never failing market, and the dream of the agricultural 
Utopian appears to be realized. But add, further, the extra- 
ordinary facilities for all manner of industrial pursuits afforded 
by the immense hydraulic power of the river, and a reality, 
not a picture, is produced which challenges competition or 
comparison. 

Each town and village along the valley, wliich has struggled 
up from the days of the early settlement of the country, is 
now becoming the nucleus of a thriving and important center 
of industry and trade. The rose colored expectations of the 
first settlers and the feverish excitement occasioned by the 



FROM CLEVELAND TO CHICAGO. 87 

constrnction of railroads tlirough the coimtry, each visionary 
and delusive, have subsided into a more sober and practical 
view of things, and now there seems to be, not only a rational 
appreciation of the facilities which nature has afforded, but a 
substantial exhibition of that practical application and ener- 
getic action which forms a sure presage of success. A 
generation of white men have quietly seen the St. Joseph 
river sweeping past their doors, wasting its mighty powers in 
improvising sand-bars and in dancing over riffles. That gen- 
eration, while waiting, like Micawber, for " something to turn 
up " to their advantage, have passed away. A new era has 
dawned. Enterprise is at work. Genius and art ; intelligence 
and thrift ; capital and labor have combined in a sort of co-op- 
erative union for the purpose of subjecting to humanizing 
uses the hitherto unappropriated and unappreciated capabili- 
ties of the situation. 

It is proper to remark that for much of the interesting mat- 
ter of several of the foregoing pages we are indebted to the 
" Gazetteer of the St. Joseph Yalley in Michigan and Indiana," 
published last year. 

Laporte, the capital of Laporte county, is a beautiful and 
thriving prairie city, iifty-eight miles east of Chicago. It has 
a population of nearly 7,000, has many fine residences and 
quite extensive manufactories. The Michigan Southern and 
Northern Indiana have large machine and repair shops and 
a round-house here. The Cincinnati, Peru and Chicago road 
here forms a junction with the M. S. & X. I. road. Laporte 
is situated at the north end of Door prairie, and twelve miles 
from Lake Michigan. It is in the immediate neighborhood 
of several very fine lakes of clear pm-e water, and surrounded 
by a highly cultivated country of surprising fertility. Prob- 



88 turner's guide to the rocky mountains. 

ably no city in the land has better public schools, and no one 
of its size can boast of a more enterprising, intelligent and 
refined population. 

Ten miles west of Laporte is the crossing of the l^ew 
Albany and Salem Railroad, running from Michigan City to 
the Ohio river, by the way of Lafayette. Passengers for 
Lafayette, Indianapolis, Louisville and Cincinnati change cars 
here. 

Speeding westward the train soon passes the small village 
of Calumet, and, crossing the Michigan Central Railroad, 
enters the sand-hill region bordering upon lake Michigan. 
The Central crossing was many years ago the theater of a 
fearful accident, in which many lives were sacrificed. There 
need be no fear now, however, as, by a very proper law of the 
state, all trains on both roads are compelled, under heavy 
penalties, to come to a dead stop before passing the junction. 
Such a regulation is, we believe, observed by all roads before 
making a crossing. It is a very proper, because it is the only 
safe, mode of procedure. 

A few miles now brings the traveler to the state line, 
which is marked by a handsome granite monument, and he 
enters the state of Illinois, and soon catches glimpses of the 
wonderful city of Chicago. Yery shortly the train reaches its 
destination in the most magnificent depot in America, if not 
in the world. 

The state of Illinois has an area of 55,405 square miles, or 
35,459,200 acres. Its extreme length is 388 miles, and its 
average breadth 212 miles. The following table exhibits the 
population of the state for fifty years down to 1860, and gives 
an idea of its astonishing growth ; 



FROM CLEVELAIH) TO CHICAGO. 



89 



United States Census. 



1810, 
1820, 
1830, 
1840, 
1850. 
1860, 



White. 



11,501 

53,788 

155,061 

472,254 

846,034 

1,704,323 



Free 
Colored. 


Slave. 


618 
457 
1,637 
3,598 
5, 'J 36 
7,628 


168 
917 
747 
331 



Total. 



12,287 

55,162 

157,445 

476,183 

851,470 

1,711,951 



a 



u 



The ratio of increase for forty years is given as follows : 
From 1810 to 1820, increase 349.53 per cent. 
" 1820 to 1830, " 185.17 " 
" 1830 to 1840, " 202.44 

" 1840 to 1850, " Y8.81 

" 1850 to 1860, " 101.06 

The census of 1860 shows Illinois to be the fourth state in 
the Union in point of population, only New York, Pennsyl- 
vania and Ohio ranking ahead of it. The census of 1870 will 
probably reverse the position of Illinois and Ohio. The spec- 
tacle of so large a population as Illinois contained in 1850 
more than doubling itself in a decade, by the regular course 
of settlement and natural increase, has no parallel in the his- 
tory of peoples. Well may it be said that the condition to 
which this state has attained in the last forty years is a monu- 
ment of the blessings of industry, enterprise, intelligence and 
free institutions. 

Illinois occupies the lower part of that inclined plane of 
which Lake Michigan and both its shores are the higher sec- 
tions. The greater elevation of the country is 800 feet, and 
the mean elevation about 550 feet above tide water. Extend- 
ing, as it does, nearly 400 miles north and south, it has a 
diversity of climate and temperatm'e highly beneficial to its 
amcultural interests. For months there is a succession of 



fruits and vegetables, and wheat from one end of the state is 
12 



90 ttjener's guide to the rocky mountains. 

in the market and being made into bread long before it is 
ripe in the northern sections. The soil is of dilu\aal origin, 
and it is claimed that at an early geological period the whole 
state formed a portion of the bed of an immense lake. Prairie 
largely predominates, although large bodies of timber are 
found in very unequal distribution. The soil of the prairies 
is deep, rich, and exceedingly fertile, j^roducing a large 
growth of native grasses ; and, when cultivated, yielding 
enormous crops of vegetables, fruits and cereals. Indian corn 
is easily and extensively cultivated, and both winter and 
spring varieties of wheat are raised in great excellence and 
profusion. No other state in the Union produces so many 
and so fine cattle and swine. Illinois beef and pork have long 
taken the lead in the markets of the world. The dairy pro- 
ducts are unimportant. In 1860, the assessed value of prop- 
erty was as follows : 

Keal estate, ----- $287,219,940 
Personal property, - - - 101,987,432 



Total, ----- $389,207,372 
The true value of the real and personal property in 1850 
was $156,265,006, and in 1860, $871,860,232, showing an in- 
crease in ten years of $715,595,276, or within a fraction of 458 
per cent. The number of acres of improved land in 1850 was 
5,039,545; in 1860 it was 13,251,473. The cash value of 
farms in 1850 was $96,133,290, and the value of farming 
implements and machinery was $6,405,561. In 1860 the 
cash value of farms had increased to $432,531,072, and of 
implements and machinery to $18,276,160. The return of 
live stock for 1850 and 1860 shows as follows: 



FROM CLEVELAND TO CHICAGO. 



91 



Horses 

Asses and Mules 

Milch Cows 

Working Oxen 

Other Cattle 

Sheep , 

Swine 

Total 



1850, 



4,000,212 



1860. 



267,653 
10,573 

294.671 
76,156 

541,209 

894,043 
1,915,907 


575,161 
38,881 

532,731 
90,973 

881,877 

775,230 
2,279,722 



5,174,575 



The value of live stock was in 1850 $24,209,258, and in 
1860, $73,434,621. 

The following table gives a comparative statement of the 
chief productions of agriculture for the years indicated : 



Wheat bushels, 

Rye " 

Indian Corn " 

Oats... " 

Irish Potatoes " 

Barley " 

Buckwheat " 

Value of Orchard Products dollars, 

Value of Market Gardens " 

Value of Home-made Manufactures.. " 

Value of Animals slaughtered " 

Butter pounds, 

Cheese " 

Hay tons, 

Wine gallons. 



1850. 



1860. 



9,414,575 


24,159,500 


83,364 


981,322 


57,646,984 


115,296,779 


10,087,241 


15,336,072 


2,514,861 


5,799,964 


110,795 


1,175,651 


184,504 


345,069 


446,049 


1,145,936 


127,494 


418,195 


1,155,902 


933,815 


4,972,286 


15,159,343 


12,526,543 


28,337,516 


1,278,225 


1,595,358 


601,952 


1,834,265 


2,997 


47,093 



In consequence of the extensive and unprotected prairies 
and plains, the winds, especially in the winter season, are 
very disagreeable, and sometimes destructive. The winters 
are excessively cold, and the summers very hot. The mean 
annual temperatm-e on the 40th parallel is about 54 '^ Faren- 
heit, that of summer 77°, and that of winter 33|-°. Vegeta- 
tion comes forward early, and severe frosts are seldom known 
before the first of October. In the early summer the face of 
the country presents a beautiful aspect — sometimes appear- 



92 ttjrneb's guide to the rocky mountains. 

ing " like an ocean of flowers of various hues waving to the 
breezes that sweep over them." An alhivial formation, called 
the American bottom, extends along the Mississippi for about 
ninety miles, and has a breadth of some five miles. It is of 
wonderful richness, rivaling the famed valley of the l^ile. 
Some of these bottoms, it is said, have produced annual and 
heavy crops of Indian corn for over two hundred years with- 
out manure, and with indifferent cultivation. 

The general salubrity and healthiness of the climate have 
been well attested, although at certain seasons of the year 
fevers and fluxes, occasioned by the decay of the exuberant 
vegetable growth, are somewhat frequent and sometimes fatal 
in their type. The upland prairies and oak openings are, 
however, quite free from ej^idemic disorders. Taken alto- 
gether, Illinois may be set down as one of the healthiest states 
in the Union. The year ending June 1, 1860, shows the per 
cent, of deaths to have been only 1.14, while the per centages 
in the 'New England states were as follows : 

'Connecticut, - - - - 1.35 per cent. 

Maine, 1.23 " 

Massachusetts, - - - - 1.Y6 " 
New Hampshire, - - - - 1.39 " 
Khode Island, . . - - 1.44 " 

Vermont, 1.08 " 

The latter alone of these states appears to have a less pro- 
portion of deaths to the population than Illinois, and yet not 
only are the people of New England extremely fearful of dis- 
ease in this beautiful state, but Illinoisans, in large numbers, 
yearly seek the mountains of the east for recuperation and 
health. 

Two counties of Illinois border upon Lake Michigan, viz., 



FROM CLEVELAND TO CHICAGO. 93 

Lake and Cook, thus giving to the state the key to the 
extended and constantly augmenting commerce of the whole 
chain of lakes and the rivers of the Atlantic slope, as well as 
placing her in communication with all the sea-coast of America 
and the ports of the eastern hemisiDhere. Chicago, although 
nominally an inland city, is in fact little less a seaport, open 
to the trade of the world, than N'ew York, Philadelphia, E'ew 
Orleans, or London. On the west the state is bounded for its 
whole length by the Mississippi, whose deep and rapid waters 
furnish a direct and an almost perpetual highway to the 
ocean, while on the south the beautiful Ohio meanders towards 
its confluence with the " father of waters." On the east bor- 
der the Wabash, for a long distance is navigable. The rivers 
within the limits of the state are numerous, and, with their 
branches and tributaries, constitute Illinois one of the best 
watered sections of our common country. J^ot with standing 
the level surface of the land through which they flow, many 
of these rivers have a volume of water and swiftness of cur- 
rent which produce a succession of most excellent and avail- 
able sites for manufacturing purposes. Eock river, in par- 
ticular, is hardly surpassed as a water power in the nation. 

The Michigan and Illinois Canal runs from Chicago to the 
rapids of the Illinois, in La Salle county, one hundred and 
six miles, thus forming continuous water communication from 
the lakes to the Mississippi and thence to the ocean. 

The prevailing rocks throughout the state are those of the 
coal measures. They occupy most of the country lying south 
of a line drawn from the Hiouth of Kock river east to the 
county of La Salle and thence south-east across the line of 
Indiana. The formation is extensive and covers an area, in 
and out of the state, which may be reckoned as one coal field 



04 turner's guide to the rocky mountains. 

three hundred and seventy-five miles long and about two 
hundred miles in breadth. The thickness of these coal 
measures is generally shallow, but promise is given of an 
abundant supply for centuries to come. In many localities 
wood is abundant, and in others an excellent quality of peat 
can be easily developed into an almost unlimited supply. 

The Galena lead mines in tlie north-western portion of the 
state have long been celebrated for their inexhaustible rich- 
ness. These mines have proved so productive that the metal 
has long constituted one of the most important exports of the 
state. In other sections, salt is found in considerable 
abundance. 

The railroad system of Illinois is second to that of no state 
in the Union. The net-work, though by no means complete, 
has matured into a system which, converging at Chicago, is 
highly beneficial to all sections and all interests. Thus has 
immigration been stimulated, improvements been rendered 
possible, production increased, values appreciated, and all the 
concomitants of civilization multiplied and distributed. 

As an agricultural state, Illinois ranks second and is fast 
reaching up towards the first in the Union. Considered in 
reference to the profits of agricultural industry she is already 
without a peer. The level and unobstructed surface of the 
country renders the use of all kinds of farm machinery not 
only possible but safe and very economical. This is a very 
important consideration where land is cheap and labor com- 
paratively scarce and high. But for the reaper and the 
mower, it is well known that not one-fourth of the wheat, oats, 
barley and grass crops of the present year, in the state, could 
have possibly been gathered, and if harvested and secured, 
without the threshing machine it would have been the work 
of a year to prepare the cereals for market. 



FROM CLEVELAND TO CHICAGO. 95 

It may very properly be remarked that Illinois with her 
present advanced position, large popnlation, splendid towns 
and cities, numerous railroad lines, educational advantages 
and cheap lands offers better inducements than ever before to 
those seeking pleasant homes in the midst of plenty, intelli- 
gence and refinement. 

Chicago is the chief city of Illinois, of the lakes and, indeed, 
of the West. Many considerations concur to constitute it the 
most extraordinary city of the age or of any age. A quarter 
of a century ago it had almost no population, now it has a 
fourth of a million ; then it had no place upon the map, now 
it is known to the uttermost corner of the civilized globe. 
Large cities do not spring ready made into existence, and few 
are the result of forecast or design ; even their location is fre- 
quently referable to accident. So of Chicago ; forty years 
ago the most unlikely place in the West to have predicted the 
building of the metropolis of to-day would have been the 
very one where that city now stands. 

Eelatively the site of Chicago is low, and the prairie which 
surrounds it for several miles has comparatively little or no 
variation of surface; but in reality the city occupies the 
dividing ridge, six hundred feet above the ocean, between the 
two great rivers, the Mississippi and the St. Lawrence, which 
together drain half the continent. The lake and its rivers 
afford a capacious, convenient and safe harbor and give a 
water front for shipping of more than twenty miles in length. 
Here enters and hence departs an amount of shipping which 
puts to shame or quite reduces to contempt, the navies of 
almost every one of the ocean ports of the world. But it is 
not the rivers, nor the lakes, nor anything primarily con- 
nected with its mere location that has made the city what it 



96 turner's guide to the kocky mountains. 

is. Other cities on the lakes have just as good harbors, some 
of them perhaps better ; but there is but one Chicago. Cities 
are the offshoots, not the causes of production ; they are the 
conveniences, not the promoters of commerce ; they are the 
necessities, not the originators of civilization. Chicago is no 
exception ; she is the greatest lumber market in the world 
because the wants of a rich and fast developing country 
demand an accumulation of that commodity at the conven- 
ient and accessible point which she happens to occupy. She 
is the largest grain and cattle depot in the world because facil- 
ities are afforded for bringing these productions of the interior 
speedily and cheaply to her markets. The benefits of city 
and country have, it is true, grown to be reciprocal ; the 
country would, however, speedily and without great incon- 
venience, recover from the loss of the city, while the city 
would very shortly relapse into its original marshes and mud 
holes were the support of the country withdrawn. It is a 
sense of this mutual dependency and, so far as Chicago is 
concerned, prime necessity, that has stimulated that enterprise, 
and kept in motion those energies which have woven a net- 
work of iron all over the West and made the city the 
converging point of more miles of railroad than center at any 
other place on earth. 

It is not intended here to give anything like a full or ex- 
tended history of the railroads centering in Chicago, but the 
industry of a daily print of that city (the Tribune) affords 
much valuable and varied information on the subject and we 
are happy to make such extracts as follow : 

'' Chicago is the center of a great net- work of railway, whose 
lines stretch out towards almost every point of the compass, 
and grasp, with their iron fingers, the trade and traffic of many 



FROM CLEVELA:ND to CHICAGO. 97 

degrees of latitude and longitude. The great cliain of lakes 
and the long and sluggish canal are, in many respects, tributary 
to, rather than competitive with the railroads, as the products 
which the former slowly collect are rapidly scattered abroad 
by the latter to other markets. And so great are the currents 
of business rushing into and out from this center, that while 
lake and canal and river craft are all busied to their utmost, 
the railroads are alive night and day with their trains, which 
find scarcely room or time for passage ; and yet new lines are 
being built and projected, and existing lines extended still 
further into the distance. Twelve distinct lines of road send 
out their own trains from this city daily. Many of them 
have branches which form distinct routes under difierent 
names, though they belong to our main lines, and should 
really be included in the enumeration, while several other 
distinct roads have their offices here and run their cars here 
over other tracks ; so that the number of railroads centering 
and represented here is much larger than that named, and the 
number which make direct connection with our lines at greater 
or less distances from this city, can scarcely be reckoned. 

" The past and futm*e growth of Chicago are intimately 
identified with — in fact, dependent upon — her railway system, 
and a brief but careful review of the history of each of oui* 
main lines, and a glance at the business which they have 
done, will be found a very interesting document, both for 
perusal and preservation here and for sending abroad. 

" The organization of the first line of our present magnifi- 
cent railway system dates back thirty-one years, to 1836, 
when the Galena & Chicago Union Railroad — the pioneer 
road of Illinois — was incorporated by the Legislature. At 

that time there were only about 1,000 miles of railroad in the 
18 



^8 turner's guide to the rocky mountains. 

United States. The time proved a disastrous one for public 
undertakings, as the financial crash came in the year following, 
making it impossible to go on with the work. It lav dormant 
for ten years, when, in 184Y, the first rail of strap iron was 
laid on the present line to Freeport. In 1850 it had reached 
Elgin, forty-two miles from Chicago, and from there it was 
soon built to Freeport, where it connects with the Illinois 
Central road for Dunleith and Dubuque. About this time 
the company purchased the Mississippi & Kock River Junc- 
tion Railroad and completed it as the Dixon Air Line road, 
to the Mississippi at Fulton, in 1855. 

" In 1864 this parent road was j^urchased by its young and 
ambitious son, the Chicago & JSTorth-Western, and absorbed 
in it, losing its old and honored name. 

"Although the road was projected from a little trading 
town back upon the almost unsettled prairie, its coming caused 
villages and farm houses to rise along the way with marvel- 
ous rapidity, furnishing to it, almost from the first year, a 
liberal and profitable business. In 1850 the dividends of the 
road were 10 per cent.; in 1851, 15 per cent.; in 1852, 15 per 
cent.; in 1853, 20 per cent.; in 1854, 21 per cent.; in 1855, 17 
per cent.; in 1856, 22 per cent.; and previous to its sale to the 
E'orth-Western Company, its stock was in demand at as high 
as 24 per cent, above par. 

" Thus this parent road of Chicago, built as an experiment, 
and with much misgiving and doubt, proved to be very profit- 
able, retm'ning handsome dividends to the men who had the 
courage to inaugurate the bold system of railways which has 
made Chicago what she is, and whose receipts from this city 
alone reached, in 1867, the immense sum of $12,033,000." 

That portion of the able compilation from which the above 



FROM CLEVELAND TO CHICAGO. 99 

is extracted relating to the Chicago & jSTorth-Western Railway 
has been given elsewhere. The writer proceeds to say, in 
reference to the Chicago, Burlington & Qnincy road, that 
" this road justly claims to be one of the best managed and 
most profitable roads in the West, and is one of the very few^ 
railroads of the West which is in the hands of the original 
stockholders, who, in this case, are receiving handsome divi- 
dends on their investments. Its friends are in the habit of 
saying that its initials, "C, B. & Q.," properly indicate its 
characteristics as the "Cheapest, Best and Qnickest." The 
line runs south-west, through some of the finest and best 
developed agricultural regions of the state, to Burlington, 210 
miles from Chicago, with a branch of 100 miles, from Grales- 
burg to Quincy, 269 miles from Chicago. 

" The part of what is now the Chicago, Burlington & 
Quincy Railroad which was first operated was the Aurora 
Branch Railroad, which in the fall of 1852 was completed 
thirteen miles, from Aurora to the Junction, on the Galena & 
Chicago Union road. In the fall of 1853 it was completed 
south-west to Mendota, forty-five miles from Aurora. About 
1856, the Chicago & Aurora road was consolidated with the 
Central Military Tract Railroad from Mendota to Galesburg, 
and with the Peoria & Oquawka Railroad, the western part 
of which was between Galesburg and Burlington. About the 
same time, a consolidation was efiected with the Northern 
Cross Railroad, from Galesburg to Burlington, thus comj)let- 
ing the Chicago, Burlington & Quincy Railroad. Until 1863, 
the trains of this road ran into the city over the Galena & 
Chicago Railroad track, from the Junction, thirty miles out, 
but in that year the company completed its o^vn track, enter- 
ing the city along Sixteenth street. 



100 turner's guide to the rocky mountains. 

"The road is now virtually extended into Iowa by a contract 
made with the Burlington & Missouri Railroad, which is 
already built 156 miles west of Burlington, forming a very 
important connection, as it taps the richest portion of Iowa, 
and is rapidly extending towards the Missouri, at or near Omaha. 
The Hannibal & St. Joseph Railroad, which runs across the 
great state of Missouri, from opposite Quincy, is also a very 
important feeder, connecting with Atchison, Kansas, and 
thence with the Central Branch of the Union Pacific Railroad. 
Costly and extensive bridges of some 1,200 feet in length are 
now being erected across the Mississippi at Quincy and Bur- 
lington, and their completion will greatly facilitate the business 
of the road. 

"The Council Bluffs & St. Joseph Railroad, which runs 
parallel to the Missouri, between these two cities, is being 
rapidly pushed from both ends, fifty-five miles being already 
in operation from Council Blufi*s. The entire road will prob- 
ably be completed during the coming summer, and will then 
prove a valuable feeder to the Chicago, Burlington & Quincy 
Railroad, through its immediate connection with the Hannibal 
& St. Joseph Railroad, and will undoubtedly attract a consid- 
erable share of business from the Union Pacific road at 
Omaha. 

"The earnings of the road for the year ending June, 1867, 
were: From passengers, $1,543,714; from freight, $4,124,692; 
miscellaneous, $414,730; interest and exchange, $63,723. 
Total revenue, for the year, $6,146,861 ; revenue above ex- 
penses, $2,793,462. The earnings ten years ago were but 
$117,949. 

" The equipment was enlarged during the year by the addi- 
tion of 8 locomotives, 1 passenger car, 2 baggage and express 



FROM CLEVELAND TO CHICAGO. 101 

cars and 118 other cars, making the present rolling stock 119 
locomotives, 59 passenger, 27 baggage, and 2,235 freight and 
other cars. The capital stock and debt of the company is 
$15,921,260. 

" The number of passengers carried westward during the 
year was 466,902 ; carried eastward, 450,918. Total, 917,820. 

" The Chicago, Eock Island & Pacific Eailroad bears off in 
a south-westerly direction to Rock Island, on the Mississippi, 
at the mouth of Eock Eiver, 182 miles from Chicago. It 
was commenced in April, 1852, and com23leted in February, 
1854, being only one year and ten months. Here it crosses 
the river on a fine and costly bridge, and joins what was 
formerly the Mississippi & Missouri Eailroad, with which the 
Chicago and Eock Island road was consolidated August 20, 
1865, the name being changed to the present one. The great 
consolidated line, therefore, will eventually reach from Chicago 
to the Mississippi, and thence directly across the broad and 
fertile state of Iowa to Council Bluffs, opposite Omaha, on 
the Missouri river. The road is already in operation to Des 
Moines, the ca23ital of Iowa, and is being rapidly pushed 
north-westerly to Council Bluffs. Within a few weeks the 
directors of the road have issued additional stock to the 
amount of $4,900,000, for the completion of this important 
part of the line, and a large portion of it has been sold at 
nearly par value, the road ranking among the most prosper- 
ous roads in the West. When the line is completed it will be 
the shortest route from Chicago to the Missouri, and of course 
receive a large addition to its business. It is already graded 
about fifty miles beyond Des Moines. The company has now 
182 miles of main line in operation in Illinois, and a branch 
of forty-six miles from Bureau to Peoria, and by its consoli- 



102 turner's guide to the rocky mountains. 

dation with the Mississippi & Missouri, it now operates 450 
miles of road. 

" The hist annual report, dated April 1st, 1867, shows the 
following facts : The cost of tlie road, equipments, lands and 
all other property was $15,313,822. This includes the cost of 
the two consolidated lines, the Chicago & Rock Island and 
the Mississippi 6z Missouri. To aid the latter a large amount 
of land was granted by the acts of Congress and the Legisla- 
ture of Iowa, of which tliere has been certified by the 
Government of the United States to th company $481,000. 

'' There has been a large amount of rolling stock placed upon 
the line dm^ing the year, and a splendid depot in Chicago has 
been built in common with the Michigan Southern Railroad. 
The receipts of the road last year amounted to $3,574,033 ; 
the expenditures, $1,995,034; leaving as the net earnings, 
$1,578,999. The company have 92 engines, 46 passenger 
coaches, 20 baggage and express cars, and 880 other cars. 
The amount of freight transported was 1,197,824,158 pounds. 

" During the year the comj^any have built, about two miles 
south of the city limits, a large round-house and very exten- 
sive car shops, which will })robably employ nearly a thousand 
men, and quite a village has already begun to spring up there. 
Speculators have bought uj:* tracts of land adjoining the 
works and divided them into lots, which they have sold, or 
still hold at almost city prices, and when, as in due time will 
no doubt be the case, frequent '' dummy " trains are run to 
this point, stopping at every street for passengers, a populous 
suburb will grow up along the line. 

" The Chicago and Alton road bears off still further to the 
south than the one just mentioned, and strikes the Mississippi 
at Alton, 275 miles from Chicago, where it connects with the 



FKOM CLEVELAND TO CHICAGO. 103 

Alton and St. Louis Railroad, which is operated and virtually 
owned by the same company (the payments of $800,000 for 
its purchase being nearly completed), and follows the river to 
St. Louis, 282 miles from Chicago. Here connections are 
made with lines of steamers up and down the Mississippi and 
up the Missouri to the wilds and gold-fields of the northern 
territories, and with the Missouri and Kansas Pacific Rail- 
roads, and other lines through the great state of Missouri. 
The road is formed by the consolidation of several distinct 
lines, of which the first was the Joliet and Chicago, to which 
the right to enter the city on the Archer road was given 
January 5th, 1857. The earnings are reported below from 
the organization of the road in 1855. 

" The Chicago and Alton Railroad proper was built under 
two charters — the first to the Alton and Sangamon Railroad, 
granted February 27, 1847, and the second to the Cliicago 
and Mississippi Railroad, granted June 19, 1852. In 1855 the 
name of the road was changed to the Chicago, Alton and St. 
Louis Railroad ; the company was again reorganized under 
the title of the St. Louis, Alton and Chicago Railroad in 1857 ; 
and again, for the third time, reorganized in October, 1862, as 
the Chicago and Alton Railroad. 

'' The first portion of the present line that was constructed 
was the Alton and Sangamon Railroad, from Alton to Spring- 
field, which was completed in 1853. The Chicago and Missis- 
sippi Railroad, from Springfield to Joliet, was next built, in 
1854, and arrangements which were made with tlie Chicago 
and Rock Island Railroad, from this city to Joliet, and with 
the Terre Haute, Alton and St. Louis, between the two last 
named places, completed the line from Chicago to St. Louis. 
In 1857 the Joliet and Chicago Raih-oad was built, under a 



104: turner's guide to the rocky mountains. 

separate charter, and the trains of the Alton road run over it 
until January, 1864, when it was perpetually leased by the 
latter, and in the same year the Alton and St. Louis Railroad 
was purchased, completing the ownership of the present Chi- 
cago and Alton Railroad Company of the entire road from 
Chicago to St. Louis. 

" The road has passed through many financial vicissitudes 
since its organization, which seemed for a time to have utterly 
wrecked it. In December, 1859, its heavy mortgages were 
foreclosed, and it passed into the hands of a receiver. In 
September, 1862, the road was sold at Joliet, under a decree 
of the United States Court, Messrs Samuel J. Tilden and S. 
H. Meyer becoming the purchasers for the bondholders. The 
road was then reorganized, the first mortgage bondholders 
receiving new bonds, the second mortgage bondholders receiv- 
ing preferred stock, and the third mortgage bondholders 
receiving common stock. A" large amount was spent in 
repairing and equipping the road, and it is now in splendid 
running condition, and is a first-class road, running through 
some of the best farming country in the State, most of which 
is thoroughly improved, and connecting the two principal 
cities of the West, between which there is a large and increas- 
ing amount of travel and business. 

"The principal event of the year, in connection with the Chi- 
cago and Alton road, has been the opening of the Chicago, 
Jacksonville and St. Louis Railroad, which runs from Bloom- 
ington, on this road, through Jacksonville, 150 miles, to 
Monticello, eight miles above Alton, where it connects again 
with the main line. This new line was opened September 
23d, by a very pleasant excm*sion from this city, and it has 
since proved a very important feeder, as it taps a wide belt of 



FROM CLEVELAND TO CHICAGO. 105 

sj^leiidicl agricultural land which has been settled and devel- 
oped for many years, but until this had no railroad communi- 
cation. Although lying much nearer to St. Louis than to 
Chicago, by far the largest part of its grain and cattle are sent 
to this market, from which merchandise of all kinds are sent 
in return, to the 2)roiit of both seller and buyei'. The fact 
that Chicago can draw trade from within forty or fifty miles 
of St. Louis, paying better prices for products and selling 
goods at lower rates, sliows its superior advantages as a 
market. 

'' At the date of the last published annual report, the com- 
pany owned 67 locomotives and 1,359 cars, of which 37 were 
passenger and 15 baggage and express. Tlie total assets of 
the road were $12,290,904. 

" The Illinois Central road had its origin in the year 1850, 
when Steplien A. Douglas and General Shields obtained from 
Congress a grant of alternate sections otiand on both sides of 
the proposed route, through the richest portions of the Garden 
state, giving it an immense and increasing revenue from their 
sale, without which encouragement the road would not have 
been imdertaken. In 1852 the officers of the road applied for 
permission to enter the city along the lake shore, which was 
granted, and the Illinois Central, fifteen years ago, was added 
to our railroad system. 

" This is our southern line, penetrating the state from the 
west to its extreme limit at the point formed by the Ohio and 
Mississippi rivers at Cairo, 363 miles from Chicago. After 
pursuing a south-westerly direction from this city the road 
unites at Centralia, 253 miles distant, Avith the North Divi- 
sion, which starts at Dunleith, 343 miles away at the extreme 

northern limit of the state, and thence runs due south to its 
14 



^^)(^ turner's guide to thk rocky mountains. 

terminus. The total length of this immense line is 706 miles, 
and, with its vast grants of government land, which are 
gradually being sold and settled, it is one of the most wealthy 
and important corporations in the conntry. The value of this 
road in opening np and developing the agricultural and min- 
eral wealth of the state can hardly be over-estimated. At 
Cairo connections are made with the trade of the great rivers 
and the southern cotton and sugar fields, while the loAver 
portions of this state, with their high temperature and varied 
productions of fruit and grains, pour in an unfailing supply of 
necessaries and luxuries to our northern market. The Illi- 
nois Central very materially facilitates the speedy and safe 
transfer of fruit from this garden region by placing upon their 
road fast fruit trains in the straw^berry and peach seasons, 
bringing these delicious products fresh from the garden and 
orchard, so that they could be in the hands of the dealers, 
and, perhaps, on the tables of our citizens in the early morn- 
ing, twelve or fifteen hours after they left the vines or trees. 
The amount of fruit shipped during the last season was 14,000 
bushels of berries, and 389,000 baskets of peaches, which, 
with small lots of other fruit and vegetables, made nearly nine 
millions of pounds. Of this vast aggregate Chicago received 
12,500 bushels of berries, and 289,191 boxes of peaches, the 
larger part of which were consumed in this city. 

" The Central effected an important extension on October 
1, 186Y, by leasing for twenty years, for a rent of thirty-five 
per cent, of the gross earnings, the Dubuque and Sioux City 
Kailroad, which is already completed due west from Dubuque 
143 miles to Iowa Falls, with a branch fifty-three miles long 
running south-west from Farley to Cedar Kapids, on the Chi- 
cago and North-Western Railway. It also connects at Cedar 



FROM CLEVELAND TO CHICAGO. 107 

Falls, ninety-nine miles from Dubnque, with tlie Cedar Falls 
and Minneapolis Eailroad, which is being bnilt northward 
through western Iowa and Minnesota. The Illinois Central 
thus gains a large and constantly increasing amount of travel 
and trade from these two fine states. The company is now 
perfecting facilities for shipping freight across the Mississippi, 
between Dubuque and Dunleith, without breaking bulk, and 
is building for this purpose barges capable of carrying Rve 
loaded cars each. The company has also contracted for a new 
first class ferry-steamer, to be delivered at the opening of 
navigation next spring. It is their intention to have facilities 
for transferring both ways two hundred and twenty freight 
cars a day, if necessary. 

" The original grant of land to this company was for 2,595,000 
acres. These lands have been in the market for twelve years, 
during which time 1,885,000 acres have been disposed of In 
the early days the sales were made upon long time and at a 
low rate of interest, to induce settlers of small means to start 
and bring the lands into immediate cultivation and produc- 
tion. For the last three years the terms of payment have 
been either cash or on short credit. 'No actual settler has 
ever been deprived of his home through harsh measures on 
the part of the company, and up to January 1st, last, full title 
papers have been passed for 907,365 acres. The number of 
deeds and contracts for farm lands issued to the same time has 
been 37,144, for an aggregate of over twenty millions of dol- 
lars. The business of the. last year has been 203,834 acres, 
sold to 2,633 settlers, at an average of $10.67 per acre. One 
hundred and thirty-five thousand acres of these lands sold in 
1867 lie on the Chicago branch, in the great corn, cattle, hog 
and fruit producing districts directly tributary in business to 
the city of Chicago. 



108 turner's guide to the rocky mountains. 

" The lands are sold in tracts of forty acres and upwards, 
at from $6 to $12 per acre, and are being taken np by a 
thrifty class of settlers who soon cover the wild prairie with 
waving cornlields and blossoming orchards. The road is thus 
developing the country, which will in turn support the road. 

" The Chicago & Great Eastern Eailroad is the most westerly 
of the roads radiating to the south-east, and is the most recent 
of the trunk lines of Chicago. It was formerly known as the 
Chicago & Cincinnati Air Line Eailroad, and entered the 
city over the Pittsburg & Fort Wayne Eailroad from Valpa- 
raiso, forty miles distant. It now has its own track the entire 
distance from Eichmond, Indiana, to Chicago, 224 miles, 
running parallel with and just west of the city limits to Kinzie 
street, and thence using the track of the C. & N. W. Ey. 
to the de])ot on the corner of Kinzie and West Water streets. 
Tl^e company propose, eventually, to erect a fine passenger 
de23»^t in Carroll street. At Eichmond the road connects with 
the Cincinnati, Eaton tfe Eichmond Eailroad for Cincinnati, 
to which place it is the shortest route from Chicago, and 
where it connects with main lines for the West and South. 

" The Pittsburcr, Fort Wavne & Chicao^o Eailroad was 
incorporated in 1S52 as the Fort Wayne & Chicago Eailroad. 
Tlie work progressed slowly, the company not being able to 
make a free sale of its secm-ities. In 1856 it was consoli- 
dated with the Pittsburg Division under its present name 
and completed lN"ovember 10th of the same year. In 1861 it 
met the fate of many western roads, and was sold by a decree 
«.»f the United States Circuit Court ; being reorganized and 
placed in the hands of Trustees in February, 1862. Since 
then it has been very prosperous, doing an immense through 
as well as local business. 



FROM CLEVELAJSTD TO CHICAGO. 109 

''Tlie Micliigan Southern & E'ortliern Indiana Railroad 
was the second raih-oad opened to Chicago, that important 
event occurring on the 20th of February, 1852. Previous to 
that the Galena trains alone entered the citv, and that road 
was completed only to Elgin, forty miles distant. This line, 
after running south-east around the bend of Lake Micliigan, 
points due east to Toledo. At Elkhart, 101 miles east of 
Chicago, the road forks, the " air line " branch continuing 
through the northern part of Indiana and Ohio, and the 
other deflecting northward through southern Michigan, via 
Adrian to Toledo, whence the line is continued north-east to 
Detroit. The distance from Chicago to Toledo is 244 miles, 
and to Detroit 284 miles. At these places connection is 
made with the Lake Shore road east and the Grand Trunk 
and Great Western roads through Canada. The line is one 
of the most popular and successful of those leaving this city. 

" This company, in conjunction w^ith the Chicago, Rock 
Island & Pacific Railroad company, completed, in May last, 
on Yan Buren street, between Griswold and Sherman streets, 
an immense and magnificent union j)assenger depot ; the 
finest, it is said, in the whole country, in point of size and 
accommodations. It is of stone, in the Italian .style, and cost 
$250,000. The length is 594 feet, the width 160 feet. The 
front section, which contains the general ofiices of both com- 
panies, is 52 feet deep by 160 feet w^ide, and three stories high. 
On the front are three towers, the middle one eighty feet 
high, and the two at the corners each 74|- feet high. The 
Michigan Southern road has also built during the year an 
immense brick freight depot, south of the passenger depot, 
on Griswold street, north of Polk, 51 feet wide and 603 feet 
long, containing standing room for twenty cars, and storage 



110 turner's guide to the rocky mountains. 

room for two thousand tons. The front portion is two stories 
high and contains the freight offices. The building cost 
$47,000. 

" The general offices of the road were removed during the 
summer from Toledo to Chicago, this being found much the 
most convenient place for doing the business. 

" The equipment of the road at the date of the last report 
was as follows : First class passenger cars, 64 ; second class, 
baggage, &c., 39 ; freight, stock, &c., 1,405; locomotives, 101. 

" The number of miles of main tracks owned and operated 
by the company is 516, and of side tracks 62. 

" The Michigan Southern has always been one of the most 
popular and successful of our great lines. Its assets at the 
date of the last report were given at $20,473,991. The stock 
is divided into 98,135 shares of common and 7,877 of guaran- 
teed, or in all 106,012 shares. 

" The Michigan Central Railroad completes the list of 
roads radiating from Cliicago and is one of the oldest. It 
was projected in 1842, and built in that year from Detroit 
westward to Ypsilanti, but did not reach Chicago until May 
21st, 1852, previous to which time passengers between Chicago 
and Buffalo crossed the lake to St. Joseph, and traveled by 
stage until they reached its terminus. For more than twenty 
years this road has gone steadily on in prosperity, with hardly 
a change in its management. Its total length is 284 miles." 

Eighteen years only have passed since Chicago was proud 
of her first railroad of a few miles in length ; now forty dif- 
ferent roads have direct and immediate connection with the 
city and reach out in all directions at least seven thousand 
miles and draw trade and tribute from an immense scope of 
country. In that time the aimual earnings of the iron 



FROM CLEVELAND TO CHICAGO. Ill 

roads have increased from $174,000 to the enormous sum of 
$49,000,000, with of course a corresponding appreciation of 
business and population. The future cannot be predicted. 
'New lines have, however, been projected and are already in 
course of construction, each one opening a new artery of trade 
and tending to increase the wealth, population and import 
ance of the imperial city of the lakes. 

The manufactures of Chicago, although in their infancy, 
are quite extensive, and are constantly and rapidly increasing. 
No branch is overdone and there is plenty of room for the 
prosecution of all imaginable industries. 

An enterprise recently consummated at great expense has 
furnished the city with an abundance of the best of water. 
An immense tunnel runs two miles into Lake Michigan 
whence, at a great depth, is pumped the pure, cool and healthy 
element in unlimited supply. Besides the comfort and even 
luxury thus afforded, the sanitary condition of the city is 
much improved. No city on the continent can compare with 
Chicago in the quality of the water afforded and the expense 
is comparatively insignificant. The possible supply is suffi- 
cient for many years to come. 

The public schools of Chicago are unsurpassed anywhere. 
The system has been borrowed from New York and various 
improvements engrafted upon it. Every child in the city is 
educated without charge. At the head of the system stands 
the High School, which is annually reinforced from the ward 
or grammar schools, and which affords facilities for instruction 
almost equal to a majority of the colleges of the land. Pov- 
erty is no impediment to learning. Frequently the best 
scholars are from the most humble circles and many a prize 



112 turner's guide to the rocky mountains. 

and honor are borne off by scions of families in whose veins 
does not run 

" All the blood of all the Howards." 
Here the classics, the sciences and the higher branches of an 
English education are taught, and the offspring of the j)Oorest 
and most obscure man in the city may asj^ire to the highest 
honors. 

The city is not handsome. In many respects it is exceed- 
ingly unpicturesque and unattractive. It has the aspect in 
several sections of having been built in a hurry — of having 
been thrown together in exceeding haste. Cheap and fast 
decaying structures, perhaps, predominate. Yet in some 
parts palatial mansions rear their stately domes and commer- 
cial buildings appear, unsurpassed in grandeur and even 
extravagance in any city. It is a city of extremes. Wealth 
and poverty with all their peculiar indications meet at every 
turn. The palace and the hovel are neighbors ; the temple 
with its lofty spii*e overshadows the haunt of vice and absolute 
crime ; high-toned virtue is not shaded and toned down, but 
sinks like the banks of a fearful chasm to the level of indes- 
cribable abandonment. At one ]wint is an evangelical 
association striving for the conversion of the world, at the 
next corner open the very gates of hell. In short, Chicago is 
a city indigenous to the West, unparalleled in the world and 
unequaled in almost every respect. It is the home of the 
apostle, the elysium of the missionary and the paradise of sin. 
Here speculation is profitable, gambling respectable, cheating 
perpetual and stealing not always discreditable ; while piety 
is possible, charity inevitable, virtue questionable and the 
police and city authorities always honest if there is nothing at 



I 



FKOM CLEVELAND TO CHICAGO. 113 

Stake. As a general proposition, the best thing the stranger 
can do after arriving in this wonderful town is to pass over to 
the depot of the Chicago & N^orth- Western Railway and take 
the western bound cars. If he does so, we hope to be able to 
tell him something of the country beyond and give a glimpse 
of the fortunes which await him. 

As has been elsewhere intimated the Chicago and North- 
Western is the greatest combination or consolidation of rail- 
road interests in Ainerica. Its success and usefulness are 
mainly attributable to William B. Ogden, Esq., the late Pres- 
ident of the corporation. This gentleman, on retiring from 
the executive control of tlie great interests over which he had 
for many years presided with distinguished ability and success, 
in June of the present year, addressed to the stock and bond- 
holders of the E'orth-Western Railway Company, the follow- 
ing manifesto, wdiich on account of its general and historical 
importance is here given in full. It is a terse, truthful and 
eloquent statement of facts which cannot be considered with- 
out increasing public confidence in the great corporation to 
which it refers, and eliciting universal commendation of the 
intelligence, foresight and faithfulnegs of its author : 

" The time has happily arrived when the Chicago tfe North- 
Western Railway Company, after long years of faithful effort 
on the part of those hitherto connected with its creation, 
organization, development and administration, has emerged 
from its earlier condition of poverty and embarrassment, 
which for want of means and equipment, and lack of power 
and ability j)roperly to do and control its ever increasing- 
business, limited for a time its usefulness to the country, and 
disabled it from making adequate returns to its stockholders, 

until, at length, chiefly through its own earnings and the wise 
15 



114 turner's guide to the rocky mountains. 

and necessary application of tliem, it has, from very insig- 
nificant beginnings and after many trials, become one of the 
broadest and firmest foundations, and most favorably situated 
and connected railway institutions of the country ; already 
among the largest in earnings, and with a future promise of 
traffic and income scarcely excelled perhaps by any. 

" The original conception of the enterprise was to connect 
Chicago with Lake Superior on the north, and with St. Paul 
on the north-west. For its full realization it needs only the 
construction of the section between Fort Howard and Escan- 
aba, wisely deferred until the development of the Peninsula 
Division should demonstrate its ntility, as it has now done ; 
and the completion of the north-west connection with the St. 
Paul and the railroads radiating from it, including the IS^orth- 
ern Pacific Kailroad, by finishing the short Trempelean link 
connecting with the Winona & St. Peter, and by forming 
proper relation, if practicable, with existing lines, always pre- 
ferable to new construction so long as adeqnate to the wants 
of the country and available on just terms. 

" To this original plan was added, in 1864, the western line 
by consolidation with the Galena, and the subsequent com- 
pletion of the route to Omaha, forming the earliest and best 
connection with the Union Pacific Kailroad, which is rapidly 
spanning the continent, and now extends a continuous line of 
railroad west from Chicago eleven hundred miles ; a distance 
greater on the west than the distance from Chicago east to 
'New York or Boston. This was done by a new and revised 
agreement and lease which was by some millions more favor- 
able to this company, at the same time that it expedited many 
years the completion of that connection, and made possible 
the rapid extension of the Pacific Kailroad. 



FROM CLEVELAl^D TO CHICAGO. 115 

" The foundations have now been substantially laid and the 
work principally done, to render this company, with its lines 
resting on Lake Superior on the north ; St. Paul on the north- 
west, and the Missouri on the west, a complete institution ; 
and giving to it capacity to serve the public with efficiency, 
and to its proprietors the safety incident to very long lines, 
not easily repeated, from the excessive and improvident com- 
petition which the physical conformation of a prairie country 
admits of, and which too often endangers railway investments. 

'^ Thus has been covered the ground necessary to secure 
permanently to the Chicago & North-Western Railway Com- 
pany a business and an ability to control and conduct it with 
the greatest economy to the country and with satisfactory 
advantage to itself, that is not now, perhaps, or likely here- 
after to be enjoyed by other railway organizations of the 
country ; and which if wisely and timely secured and accom- 
plished, will continue hereafter as in the past to steadily and 
ra23idly increase its present liberal earnings, until, with a 
continuance of proper care and management, they will be 
likely in a short period of years to be enlarged to nearly or 
quite double the amount to which the course of policy adopted 
by the past management and thus far steadily pursued by 
them, so far at least as the stock and bondholders could be 
brought to understand and approve, the wisdom of that policy 
has already advanced them. 

'' My connection with the enterprises, which are now em- 
braced in the Chicago & North-Western Railway Company, 
commenced in 1817, when, thoroughly impressed with the 
importance and necessity of railway communications to the 
growth of the country, I was induced to accept the presidency 
of the Galena & Chicago Union Railroad Company, which 



116 turner's guide to the rocky mountains. 

first undertook the constriietioii of a railway from Chicago 
into any of the tributary regions of the IS'orth-West. 

"When, after about four years' service, I resigned that 
trust, and left that enterprise in a course of successful pro- 
gress, with its stock at a high premium, I supposed I had 
terminated forever my relations to such undertakings. 

" In 1853, however, on account of the bankruptcy of the 
company which had begun to construct the railroad from 
Chicago to Janesville and Fond du Lac, afterwards forming 
the line of the original Chicago & North-Western Kailway 
Company, I was induced to accept the presidency of that 
company for the purpose of rescuing the enterprise, and car- 
rying it forward to more complete development. 

" I have followed its fortunes since, and during the period 
of railway revulsion in 1857, became heavily involved in 
liabilities for it, wdiich it took years of effort to fully pay and 
discharge ; and I have often been called upon subsequently to 
make large advances for its benefit. 

" In all this period, of now twenty-one years' duration, and 
comprising the best business portion of my life, my single 
governing motive has been the physical and industrial develop- 
ment and progress of the North-West ; though, in aiming at 
this object, I have always endeavored to protect, preserve and 
make adecpiately remunerative, as far as possible, the capital 
of those who have invested their money in these great and 
most beneficial public works. I ha\^e contemplated these 
enterprises only in their public aspects, and not as sources of 
profit to myself. Bearing freely the burdens incident to their 
creation, without salary, and often without full remuneration 
of actual expenses, and without ever having speculated in 
their stocks or in any [)roperty connected with them, I have 



FROM CLEVELAND TO CHICAGO. 117 

shared in the transcendent blessings which they have show- 
ered so prodigally upon all the JSTorth-West, only in common 
with my fellow-citizens, by the added prosperity of all our 
business and the enhanced value of all om- property. 

"On the reorganization of 1859, under statutory enact- 
ments for that purpose, it was provided that the bondholders 
should have the right to vote at all corporate meetings, in the 
same manner as stockholders. The object of this expedient 
was, by enabling the bondholders to control the administra- 
tion of the property for the time being, to make it safe for 
them to restore and preserve the interests of the stockholders, 
which by the mortgage foreclosures at that time, were legally 
extinguished ; and enable their stock, then without appreci- 
able value, to become vitalized by the future growth and 
prosperity of the enterprise. 

"Until 1864, the bondholders exercised a large, perliaps 
controlling influence in the management ; but alw^ays in com- 
plete harmony and co-operation with the stockholders; and 
always recognizing the legal and moral obligation of Directors 
to represent, with judicial impartiality, all classes of interests. 

"Nothing can better illustrate the liberal and provident 
care of the interests of the holders of the common stock 
(about 4,000,000 of which was saved from total extinction on 
the re-organization; and 6,000,000 of which was issued for 
equalization in the Galena consolidation) than the results we 
now experience. The growth of earnings in the year just 
closing is $2,448,757.19 ; of the year previous, $1,917,895.17; 
and in the year still previous, $1,423,090.53 ; making in all, 
$5,789,742.89. This has been accomplished during a period 
following the close of the war, when the earnings of most rail- 
roads have not largely increased, in a small degree by the 



118 turner's guide to the rocky mountains. 

addition of the 150 miles of the Iowa line from Cedar Kapids 
to Omaha, and the acqnisition of the Chicago & Milwaukee 
Railway, but chiefly by successive and immense additions of 
equipment upon the lines in use three years ago. It was 
foreseen, as stated in the report of last year, that as the equip- 
ment forms less than one-fourth of the investment in the whole 
railway, and as additional equipment, if fully employed, would 
yield, at least, fifty per cent, a year in net income, the policy 
adopted and systematically pursued, of boldly continuing new 
investments in equipments for the purpose of bringing into 
productive use the unemployed capacity of the permanent 
way, would enable the company to earn income on all its 
stocks, as, with continued good management, it will henceforth 
be able to do. 

" The j)rogress and success of this enterprise is sufficiently 
and gratifyingly indicated in the change that has been already 
effected in the increased public confidence and estimation of 
its present and future value. During the early years of its 
poverty and lesser importance and earnings, when it taxed 
the eftbrts and purses of its managers and friends severely, to 
sustain and advance it to the position and eminence to which 
they then felt assured it was entitled and would soon occuj)y, 
the public were slow to discover and appreciate its elements 
of future greatness or to give to it the degree of confidence to 
which it was then actually entitled. ]^ow, it not only com- 
mands the attention of capital, which seeks investment in its 
stocks and securities with avidity and advantage, and at 
materially advancing prices, but a growing interest in its 
affairs, and an increasing disposition to be identified with its 
management is also manifested, until its administration, in- 
stead of being a burden to be borne from public motives, as 
in the past, has become an object of desire and ainl)ition. 



FROM CLEVELAND TO CHICAGO. 119 

" Some, among the most valuable and useful members of 
tlie Board of Directors of this Company, who have been 
longest associated witli its management, have desired, for 
some years past, to withdraw from theii' labors in connection 
with it, and will avail themselves of the present occasion and 
of the prosperous condition of the Company to do so, gratified 
at being able to leave the administration of its affairs with 
those who may be selected by the present rej)resehtatives of 
its securities. 

"The position I have held so long and the duties it imposed, 
it had been my cherished and announced determination to 
relinquish at an earlier day, but the unsettled state of the 
country just at the close of the war, and my solicitude for the 
prompt completion of the connection with the Union Pacific 
Railroad at Omaha induced me for the time to delay doing so. 

" Proposing now to close all my official relations with the 
Chicago & J^orth- Western Railway Company, for whose 
welfare and progress I have watched and labored so long and 
with so much interest and hope, which interest I shall continue 
to cherish in the kindest spirit towards all connected with 
it, and with undiminished hope and confidence in its still 
increasing prosperity, growth and usefulness ; I desire in 
conclusion, to express my great obligations and indebtedness 
personally, and the indebtedness of the company for its pro- 
gress and success, to the earnest, laborious and self-sacrificing 
efforts of the able Board of Directors with whom it has been 
my good fortune and happiness to have been so long and 
pleasantly associated. And like expressions of acknowledg- 
ment of obligations and indebtedness on the part of the 
Company, the Board of Directors, and myself, are equally 
and eminently due to all the able and faithful officers and 



120 TUKNER's guide to TJfE KOOKY MOUNTAINS. 

employes of the coinpiiiiy, wlio have been associated with and 
accomplished so much for it, and so many of whom have 
given the best years of their lives in undivided efforts to 
promote its welfare. 

" ISTor would I willingly forego this opportunity to express 
my obligations and the obligations of this Company to the 
people along its various lines of road for their early, liberal 
and continued support of its measures and interests, or my 
regret at severing the intimate, and ever agreeable and 
interesting relations to them, which have grown out of my 
connection with this enterprise." 

Henry Keep, Esq., is President; Perry H. Smith, Esq., 
Yice-President ; and Geo. L. Dunlap, Esq., General Superin- 
tendent of this railway. 

The matter of the management of this mammoth corpora- 
tion is well worthy of considerate reflection. ISTearly twelve 
hundred miles of track have to be looked after and kept in 
repair; every rod of which, Avith the bridges, acqueducts, 
ditches, and all things appurtenant, is subject to frequent and 
rigid inspection ; hundreds of engines and thousands of cars 
have to be supervised ; many trains each day are loaded and 
dispatched ; an army of employes must be hired, superin- 
tended and controlled ; the accountability of each man regis- 
tered ; payment to the last hour periodically and correctly 
made; the whereabouts of a hundred trains at the same 
moment must be known, and the correct history of each re- 
corded; the minutest incident of all transactions noted; and 
yet, so sensitive is all the machinery that not a single inhar- 
mony occurs without the fact coming at once to the great cen- 
tral brain which directs and moves the whole work. ISTothing 
but the most superior ordei* of executive ability prevents the 



FROM CLEVELAND TO CHICAGO. 121 

whole design from being thrown into disorder in a day. The 
trains start with a regnlarity, and in such order, are rnn with 
a care and precision, and arrive at their places of stoppage, 
meeting and destination with snch exactness, and with such 
an apparent facility, that they seem almost to be governed in 
their motion by some undeviating natural law, analogous to 
that which rules the courses of the stars, and holds the earth 
in its orbit. 

Eailroading, in its infancy, was little more than a series of 
experiments ; hence it was, to a degree, annoying, uncertain, 
and unsafe. It has now^, how^ever, been reduced to a science, 
and its manipulations have become a business, a trade, a pro- 
fession, to be learned and prosecuted like any other. Skill 
and intelligence rise to the gurface and become the controlling 
agencies, giving to the traffic economy and profit, and ensur- 
ing an extraordinary degree of comfort, convenience and 
safety. Confidence has taken the place of distrust, and acci- 
dent is almost as little feared or calculated upon as that the 
sun will forget its diurnal rising and setting. 



16 



VI. 



FEOM CHICAGO TO THE MISSOUKI. 



Upon the broad and open prairie ! To one who has never 
before looked upon these " God's fields" of the West, the sen- 
sation produced is almost indescribable. Th ecity recedes 
from view, and the limitless expanse fills the vision. Before, 
behind, all around, the monotonous variety stretches further 
than the eye can reach, l^ow a gentle undulation, like a 
wave of the swelling sea ; now a patch of woodland, like an 
oasis in the desert ; but, altogether, a vast breadth of culti- 
vated and cultivable land reaches away till it melts into the 
deep blue of the horizon. In the late spring-time, or in the 
early summer, the all-pervading green is almost oppressive. 
Flowers of rich and variegated hues lift their modest petals to 
the sun, bending often and anon to breezes soft as those 
which " blow o'er Ceylon's isle." Aromatic odors regale the 
senses, and a premonition of abundance points to the harvest- 
time. The terms indicative of indigence, want and famine, lose 
their significance, and plenty seems to be the presiding goddess 
of the scene. Hills do not peep o'er hills, neither do Alps on 
Alps arise, but fields, crowded with more than tropical ver- 
dure, exhibit their sure prophecy of agricultural wealth. As 
the harvest-time approaches the landscape changes. The fad- 
ing flowers retire from the foreground ; the delicate tassels of 



FROM CHICAGO TO THE MISSOURI. 123 

the maturing corn-lields undulate to the touch of the summer 
breeze ; the ripening cereals intermingle their golden tints 
with the evergreen of the prairies, and the fragrance of newly 
mown hay rides upon the air. Autumn changes all. Then 
the work of the sower and reaper is done. Plenty crowns his 
board, and, with an independence which only rewards honest 
toil, the husbandman treads his broad acres, conscious that 
his hopes are already lost in luxuriant fruition. Lazy cattle, 
indolent from very excess of fatness, lift their inarticulate 
voices in seeming gladness, while innumerable wild fowl, 
startled by the noisy train, whir in field and farm land. Win- 
ter comes with howling blasts, and storms, and snows, and 
frosts. This, indeed, is the inclement season of the year ! 
Yet hope points to the spring-time. The boreal blasts will 
not always sweep over the plain ; vernal zephyrs, with show- 
ers, sunshine and fructifying warmth, will come, and the rm'al 
picture will be reproduced. So on speeds the train through 
the broad and open prairie. 

For many a mile evidences of city life abound. As it were, 
the city is wrecked, — broken in pieces, — and the debris is 
scattered around. In fact, the ever-existing longing of the 
human breast has been answered, and many an one has 
escaped from the moil and misery of street and alley, to enjoy 
the purity and freshness of the country. Hence the mansions, 
country houses, and cottages observable on either hand — now 
scattered singly among trees and shrubbery, and anon 
gathered into hamlets of rural beauty and quietude. These 
are generally suburban residences, where wealth, elegance 
and refinement " most do congregate." Harlem, Cottage 
Hill, Lo:mbard, Danbt and Wheaton are passed with mar- 
velous rapidity, and the train stops at Turj^er's Junction, 



124 turner's guide to the rocky mountains. 

thirty miles from Chicago. Here the Galena Division of the 
IS^orth-Western Railway branches off and runs north-westerly, 
through Belviclere, Rockford and Freeport to Dunleith, on the 
Mississippi. Crossing the river to Dubuque, a junction is 
made with the Dubuque and Sioux City road, already com- 
pleted to Cedar Falls, soon to be in working order to Fort 
Dodge, on the Des Moines river, and to be completed, at an 
early day-^ through to Sioux City,- on the Missouri. At Cedar 
Falls connection is made with the Minnesota Falls and Cedar 
Yalley road, now nearly completed north to St. Paul. The 
Dubuque and Sioux City road, when completed to the Mis- 
souri river at Sioux City, will open for convenient settlement 
a very splendid portion of Iowa. The tourist, the prospector, 
the seeker for a delightful home in the West, will not fail to 
make this detour from the now main track of travel, and see 
for himself one of the most desirable j^ortions of Illinois and 
Iowa. When this thoroughfare is completed one hundred 
thousand farmers, and as many more artizans, can find com- 
petence and independence along its line, in brief and inexpen- 
sive connection with the more populous portion of the country. 
All tliat the most advanced civilization can demand will soon 
be within the reach of the settler here, and an enlightened 
and progressive populace will possess a land teeming with 
plenty, and figuratively, if not literally, overflowing with milk 
and honey. Important towns are already springing into 
existence, destined, ere long, to become seats of intelligence, 
refinement, industry, and wealth. The church spire and the 
inevitable school-house, attest already the Puritan origin of 
the immigrant ; and the industry and thrift everywhere 
abounding denote that here boasted chivalry has neither a 
status nor a home. True, many of the settlements and 



FKOM CHICAGO TO THE MISSOURI. 125 

towns give evidence of recent origin and immaturity. It is 
astonishing, however, how quickly, in the West, enterprise 
and industry evoke all the appliances of a high Christian 
civilization, and make the broad prairies to yield their rich 
and varied tribute. In the early settlement of 'New England 
a quarter of a century scarcely sufficed to give a home of 
which a reasonable man might be proud. A few months in 
these fat valleys and prairies accomplish more than those long 
tedious and laborious years. The garner and the store are 
filled with but little effort, and the " wolf" is driven from all 
doors because there is no poverty. 

But to return to Turner's Junction. The town has but a 
few hundred inhabitants, and is of little importance, except as 
a railroad station in the midst of a fertile country. The train 
speeds on, passing Geneva, DeKalb, Rochelle, Franklin, 
and several minor stations, to Dixon, ninety-eight miles from 
the place of starting. Rochelle is a fine town in Ogle 
county, seventy-five miles west of Lake Michigan, containing 
about two thousand people. It has a Baptist, Methodist, 
Presbyterian and Catholic church, a large public school-house, 
and a select school. Seven teachers are employed. The 
manufacturing establishments comprise four blacksmith shops, 
three wagon shops, one foundry, one planing mill, one sash, 
blind and door factory, and one flouring mill. It is in the 
midst of a fine farming country, and farms can be bought in 
the immediate neighborhood for from twenty-five to sixty dol- 
lars per acre. 

Dixon is a very pleasant and thrifty place on Rock river, 
and at the point where the Illinois Central Railroad crosses the 
I^orth-Western. It is the business center of a large scope of 
very fine country, and is fast becoming important as a manu- 



126 turner's guide to the rocky mountains. 

facturing town. Its schools are excellent, and society is fast 
assuming the intelligence and refinement of the better class of 
New England towns. The Rock river valley, in which Dixon 
is situated, is noted for its fertility and thrift. The river is 
one of the finest in the West. It furnishes an abundance ' of 
water-power, which is constant, and easily available. The 
valley is already quite densely populated by an industrious 
and intelligent people, and many flourishing towns have com- 
menced their career of mechanical and business usefulness 
there. The railway company has established an excellent 
eating-house at this j)lace, which very constantly elicits the 
commendation of the weary and hungry traveler. 

Leaving Dixon, Rock river is soon crossed, and, passing 
jSTelson station. Sterling is reached in twelve miles. Ster- 
Ang is one of those towns which seems to have sprung from 
the deep, rich prairie soil almost as a natural production. It 
numbers nearly three thousand people, and is fast increasing 
in wealth and importance. Fourteen miles further travel 
brings us to the promising town of Morrison. This is the 
seat of Whiteside county, and contains about twenty-seven 
hundred inhabitants. It is incorporated, and is governed by 
a President and Board of Trustees elected annually. There 
are seven churches here, viz. : Congregationalist, Presbyterian, 
Methodist, Methodist Episcopal, Baptist, Catholic, and Uni- 
versalist. There is a graded public school-house which cost 
about $25,000; also, private schools for small children. A 
foundry and machine shop, several wagon manufactories, and 
a number of flouring mills, are among the leading industrial 
establishments. The farming lands, for many miles around, 
are excellent and very desirable, and range in price from 
thirty to fifty dollars per acre. In the immediate neighbor- 



FROM CHICAGO TO THE MISSOURI. 127 

hood of the town some farms have recently sold as high as 
one hundred dollars per acre. Altogether, Morrison is a 
thrifty growing place in every particular, and should not be 
passed by without especial notice. 

Through an exceedingly luxm-iant stretch of country we 
now approach the Mississippi river which, we reach at Ftjlton, 
an incorporated city with three thousand inhabitants. This 
is a river city of no small importance. Beautifully located, 
healthy, and with an enterprising population, Fulton is des- 
tined to become a city of note in the West. There are six 
churches here, viz: two Presbyterian, Baptist, Methodist, 
Dutch Eeformed and Catholic. The schools, as is common in 
Illinois, are excellent. The Graded Union School accommo- 
dates over five hundred students, and offers superior advantages 
to those who desire instruction, from the rudiments to the 
higher branches commonly taught in high schools and acade- 
mies. The school is free to all between the ages of six and 
twenty-one years. The Illinois Soldiers' College is also 
located here. This is a first class institution of solid learning. 
It is capable of accommodating four hundred students, and 
has now about two hundred and fifty in attendance. Several 
important and profitable manufacturing establishments are 
found here, among which is prominent one of the largest stone- 
ware potteries in the country. An abundance of unimproved 
land can be had in the neighborhood for a maximum of 
twenty dollars per acre, and improved farms are held at from 
twenty to fifty dollars. Much of the country is densely 
wooded, and all is of a very superior quality. At this point 
the Chicago & JSTorth-Western is crossed by the Western 
Union Eailway, connecting Milwaukee, Wisconsin, with Port 
Byron, Illinois, the distance being one hundred and eighty- 



128 turner's guide to the rocky mountains. 

one miles, and the distance from Fulton to Milwaukee on^ 
hundred and fifty-nine miles. The Western Union Railway 
connects at Port Byron with the Chicago, Rock Island & Pa- 
cific ; at Freeport with trains from Cairo, St. Louis, Galena, 
Mineral Point and Dubuque ; at Clinton Junction, Wisconsin, 
with trains from Chicdgo, Prairie du Chien, La Crosse, Green 
Bay, Oshkosh, Madison and Janesville ; and at Racine with 
trains from Chicago and Milwaukee, and with boats on Lake 
Michigan. The distance from Chicago to Fulton is one 
hundred and thirty-six miles, and the running time about six 
hours. 

The Mississippi river, sometimes called the " father of 
waters," when considered in connection with its main branch, 
is said to be the longest river in the world. It is certainly 
much the largest water course in IN'orth America. Nicollet 
traced the smaller branch, which retains the name of the 
lower current, to a small rivulet in the extreme portion of 
the United States, sixteen hundred and eighty feet above tide 
water, in latitude 47^ 10' north, in longitude 94^ 55' west, 
and as the Missouri rises in the state of Oregon, the great 
river may be honestly claimed as an institution of our country. 
From its source the general direction of the stream is south- 
ward, making, it is true, many detours in other directions, 
until it falls into the Gulf of Mexico. In its lengthy journey 
to the sea, it is constantly receiving accessions to its volume 
from various rivers flowing from the Alleghanies on the one 
hand and the Rocky mountains on the other. Its total length 
is about three thousand miles, but considered in reference to 
the Missouri river, the length is four thousand five hundred 
miles. It is computed that the Mississippi and its tributaries 
drain an area of country containing about one million two 



FROM CpriOAGO TO THE MISSOURI. 1 20 

liuiidred iiiid thirty tliousand square miles, or nearly one-half 
< )t' the territory included within the boundaries of the .United 
States. The Amazon of Soutli America, much the larscest 
river in the world, drains an area of not far from two millions 
and a half square miles. 

The Mississippi,, with its numerous tributaries, presents a 
system of navigable streams unequaled in the world, and wliicli 
lias liad an important bearing ujdoii the settlement and de- 
\ek)pment of a large portion of our country. To gain full 
control of this great highway of commerce the Louisiana 
purchase was made as long ago as 1803 ; and to abandon it 
now to any outside power or influence would be considered 
as little short of a betrayal of the life of the nation. The 
necessity of an absolute and unitary supervision of these 
mighty waters in all their great length formed one of the 
strongest arguments in favor of prosecuting the late war of 
the rebellion to a successful issue, and is of itself thought to 
be an insuperable consideration against any prospective dis- 
solution of the Union. The borders of ten states are washed 
by its waters, and the lower channel is the key to an immense 
and rapidly increasing commerce. It forms a natural means 
of defense to the nation of no small importance ; in the hands 
of an alien or an enemy it might be highl}'- dangerous and 
would be always annoying. 

The following data, carefully compiled by aiu)ther hand, are 

especially interesting to all. It is said that the Mississippi is 

ascended by steamboats to the falls of St. Anthony, about 

twenty-two hundred miles ; and above* these falls it is again 

navigable. From the head of the Ohio river at Pittsburg to 

the Gulf of Mexico the distance is twenty-four hundred miles. 

Up the Missouri boats of considerable tonnage have passed to 
17 



130 TFEXEk's GITIDE TO TH?: TiorKY MOUNTAINS. 

theA'ery foot of the Rocky mountains, a distance of more than 
four thousand miles from the Gulf. The xVrkansas and the 
Red rivers are each navii>:able for more than a thousand miles, 
while the Cumbei-land and the Tennessee aifoi'd water com- 
munication between the Gulf and the extreme eastern portion 
of Kentucky and Tennessee. By the Illinois river steamboats 
penetrate far towards Lake Michigan, and the topography (►f 
this region indicates that at some past period the waters of 
the great lakes flowed down the valley of the Mississippi. 
Below the mouth of Red i-iver the Mississippi is di^nded 
among numerous arms or passes which pursue independent 
courses to the Gulf. The highest of these is on the west side, 
called the Atchafalaya. Below its point of separation the 
region is known as the delta ; above this the alhnial plain 
of the river extends thirty miles above the moutli of the 
Ohio, where precipitous, rocky baidvs occur. The total length 
of the plain, from the mouth of the Ohio to the Gulf, is esti- 
mated at not less than five hundred miles, varying in breadth 
from thirty to eighty miles. Tlie total area of the alluvial 
plain is estimated at nearly thirty-two thousand s(juare miles, 
of which the delta constitutes about fourteen thousand square 
miles. The northern extremity of the delta is elevated tw<> 
hundred and seventy-five feet aboNc the surface of the sea. 
and is there and everywdiere nearly level with h)w watei- in 
the Mississippi river. This plain has l)een raised up from the 
sea level by the sedimentary de])osit (►f the i-iver itself. Tlie 
actual length of the river trom tlie mouth (»f the Ohio to the 
Gulf is eleven hundred and seventy-eight miles, wliicli (V\>- 
tance e:kceeds a straight line by about s(»\-en hundred miles. 

The delta extends tar out into tlie (iulf of Mexico, I'isiug 
from a few inches to ten feet above the level of the sea, and 



FROM CHICAGO TO THE MISSOURI. 131 

is slowly, but almost imperceptibly, advancing into the gulf, 
by the shoaling caused by tlie deposition of the sediment 
brought down the river. This is mostly dispersed by the 
waves and currents, and carried far out into the gull It can- 
not be doubted that the Gulf of Mexico is undergoing a pro- 
cess of sedimentary accretion, which, in the course of time, 
will appear at the surface, and drive the waters back to the 
ocean. The great compensating and equalizing laws of nature 
are at work, and tlie disintegrated masses of the Rocky 
mountaiTis are beino: transferred, with a rei>:ularit\^ and cer- 
tainty uuknown except in the mechanism of nature, to the 
gulf. Every drop of the Missouri ri\'er comes freighted with 
its wealth of mountain soil t(> aid the innumerable armies of 
coral insects ever constant at their submarine work of manu- 
facturing,- a new continent. It is the work of ag-es, to be sure, 
but it is a work sure to be finished. What has already been 
accomplished at the Mississippi delta has required, at a fair 
computation, no less than one hundred thousand years of 
time ; what is to be done may run thi-ough a million more. 
In the future all is conjecture, as in the past much is fable. 
Six days is a remarkably short time to create a universe, when 
a world is so long in perfecting ; and six thousand years — but 
science and theology may settle their own dilierences. 

The average flow of water in the Mississipj^i is variously 
estimated, l)ut the best authorities make it fully equal to that 
of the Ganges, which is five hundred and eighty tliousand 
cubic feet in a second. This immense volume may perhaps 
be best appreciated from the consideration of the fact that the 
confluence of the Missouri occasions no perceptible accretion 
of the water in the main channel. Even where the Missouri, 
which is half a mile wide, joins its curi-ent to that of the Mis- 



132 turner's guide to the rocky MOUNTAI]SfS. 

sissippi, the river below is narrower than either one above the 
junction. Of conrse, the deptli is hirgely increased. The 
uniformity in tlie widtli of the great river is remarkable. At 
ISTew Orleans it is somewhat less than half a mile wide, and 
this width is subject to very little vai'iation for a distance of 
nearly two thousand miles, except that in some of the heiids 
it swells out to near two miles. The depth is variable, reach- 
ijiii,- in some places nearly two hundred feet, and maintaining 
a general maximum of neai'ly one hundred and thirty feet. 
The velocity of the flow of the water of the river is variously 
estimated, the best authorities making the mean about two 
and a quarter miles an hour. The velocity at the surface is 
said to be about two per cent, less than the velocity bel(>w the 
sui-face to near the bottom, tliis being occasioned by contact 
with the atmosphere. The mean rate of descent per mile for 
the tii-st four hundred miles above the mouth is about two 
and one-fifth inches. The ordinary current of the Amazon 
\'aries from one to three and three-quarter miles jjer hour, 
and it is said that ships and steamers of from one thousand to 
two thousand tons burthen can safely navigate the waters of 
that mighty river and its tributaries for a combined distance 
of ovei" ten thousand miles ! The Mississippi stands second 
in no respect to but one river in the world, and when viewed 
in reference to its uses, leaves all others tar behind. As an 
artery of connnerce and civilization, it has no peei* nor parallel 
on the globe. 

The transit from Illinois to Iowa, across the Mississippi 
river, is made by means of an immense bridge. This work of 
itself is sufficient to mark the enterprise of the IS'orth-Western 
Kailway, and is a fair illustration of the energy and sTq)erior 
engineering ability (»J' the day. Thosu massive spans present 



FROM ("HIOAGO TO THK MISSOUKI. 133 

the bold assurance that no impediments are to retard the 
onward strides of Anglo-Saxon ingenuity. The '' father of 
waters " might have depressed the spirits and dampened the 
ardor of tlie first adventurous immigrants, but presents only an 
opportunity for the triumph of skill and science. Witli tliu 
utmost safety and facility the railroad train moves aci'oss, and 
the traA^eler finds himself on trans-Mississippi ground. Hail 
Iowa ! 

It is a curious fact that the Spanish navigated the (xulf of 
Mexico for two centuries without being aware that tlie secoiul 
largest river in the world debouched its w^aters into it. The 
French, after establishing their dominion in Canada, obtained 
some information about the Mississippi as early as 1660, but 
did not discover its mouth for several years afterwards. The 
French had and remained in possession of Louisiana until 
1762^, when they ceded it to Spain. In 1800 I^Tapoleon the 
F'irst induced and consummated a retrocession to France. In 
1803 the United States Government bought the vast territory 
for fifteen millions of dollars. It was a happy purchase, and 
entirely illustrative of the magnificent aspirations of LTnch^ 
Sam when he takes it into his head to buy a farm. The 
country comprehended in this purchase included nor only the 
[)resent state of Louisiana, but also all the country to the 
jiortli and west between the Mississippi and the Pacific, 
except such portions as were then occupied by Spain, and 
reaching away north to the British possessions. Tlie Ameri- 
can flag was first raised over this territory at 'New Orleans on 
the twentieth day of December, 1803. The ])resent state of 
Iowa is a j)art of the Louisiana pnrcliasi'. 



134 



TURNER S GUTDK TO THE ROCKY MOUNTAINS. 



IOWA 

is one of the interior states of the American Uni6n, and tlio 
sixteenth one admitted under the Federal Constitution. Its 
extent is two hundred and eight miles north and south, jiud 
an average of about three hundred miles east and west. Its 
area is fifty-live thousand and forty-five square miles. It has 
tour liundred and sixty square miles less territory than Illi- 
nois. The following table shows the population of the state 
from 1840 up to and including 1867 : 



YEARS. 


WHITE. 


COLOBED. 


TOTAL. 


184U 


42,924 
191,881 


188 
333 

"361 
480 
271 

1,669 
•••••• 


43,112 
192,214 
204 775 


1850 


1851 


1852 


227,773 
325,202 
519,148 


228,134 
325,682 
519,414 
633,549 
674,913 
902,040 


1854 


1856 


1859 


1860 


673,844 


1867 









Since last year the increase has been very rapid, but is not 
ascertainable. The state is bounded on two sides by tliose 
two great navigable rivers, the Mississippi on the east and the 
Missouri on the west, and has within her borders a large 
number of inferior water-courses, none of Avhich are practi- 
cably navigable, but most of them affording abundant aiul 
Qxcellent hydraulic power. All of the interior streams flo^\' 
into one or the other of the great boundary rivers, through 
valleys distinguished for the elements of agricultural richness. 
The chief of these rivers are the Des Moines, the Cedar, the 
Iowa, the Wapsipinicon, the Turkey, and the Upper Iowa, 
all of w^hich run generally parallel witli (^ach other, and fall 
into the Mississippi. Those flowing into the Missouri are 
generally short and of small Nolume. Many, as the Chariton, 



FROM CHICAGO TO THE MISSOURI. 135 

Grand, Platte, Kodawav and ]S"islinabotany, pass into Mis- 
souri, ajid join the Missouri riv^er in that state. Iowa is 
emphatically a prairie state, devoid of mountains or great 
inequalities. The surface is generally undulating, rising fre- 
(piently in gradual and grand swells to summit levels of con- 
siderable altitude, and forming a country of unrivaled beauty. 
The southern portion of the state is the most picturesque, 
al)()unding with grassy lawns and verdant plains, interspersed 
with groves, and watered by meandering rivulets. Portions 
of the north part present more bold and striking scenery, the 
surface is more elevated, and many hill-tops are covered with 
towering oaks and other forest trees. The mining sections of 
the north-east part abound in excellent farming land. The 
prairies of Iowa, however, form the most unique, picturesque 
and wonderful features of the state. Stretching in every 
direction, as far as the eye can reach, they are covered, even 
in their native wildness, with the richest grasses, interspersed 
with innumerable flowers of rarest hues and wonderful fra- 
grance. Groves, thickets, and sometimes large tracts of wood- 
lands variegate and beautify the landscape. Thousands of 
springs and small streams afford abundance of water, and add 
to the general loveliness of the scene. Even where the hand 
of art has not disturbed the repose and beauty of nature a 
i"ural aspect is discoverable which is quite delightful. 

The coal measures are regarded as the most permanent 
sources of mineral wealth in Iowa, although the lead mines 
in the Galena limestone have attracted considerable attention, 
and liave, so far, yielded the most important and valuable 
l)roductions. In the south part of tlie state beds of bitumin- 
ous coal, of fair <iuality, have been found, not less than seven 
feet in thickness, and apparently inexhaustible. Excellent 



186 titrnkr's guide to tftk ropky mount atns. 

coal iiiiiK's liavo also been opened in the central and northern 
])(>rfi(>ns of tlie state, and the indications ])oint to nnlimited 
stoi'es elsewliere, distributed at convcMiient int('i'\als. Iron 
niH' is abundant and of good (jnality, and (»tlier minerals 
are fonnd to some extent. 

The soil of Iowa is excellent, and ])erha|)s no other state in 
the Union has so small a projxtrtion of waste gi-oniid. The 
\allevs of the Ked Cedar. Des Moines, Iowa, east and west 
Nishnabotany, Boyer, and of many lesser streams, are rinex- 
ceeded in fertility by any lands in the world. The soil is rich 
in organic elements, and is noted for the large amount of 
saline matter which it contains, properly mixed with silicates, 
the whole atibrding a combination which only belongs to the 
most productive upland plains. 

The climate of lowd is nKnU'rate, and in regard to salubrity 
and general healthiness, the state is classed among the most 
favored countries of the world. There is little or no stagnant 
water, the rolling nature of the surface furnishing a natural 
system of drainage superior to any thing ever accomj)lislied 
by art. The winters, it is true, are severe, but the springs are 
early and pleasant, the sunnners equable and hmg. and the 
autumns lovely beyond comparison. Taken altogether, Iowa 
is pei-liaj^s capalde of supporting in plenty a larger p(|pulation 
than any other equal extent of territory in the country. 

Timber is comparatively scarc^e. Along the river bottoms, 
howev^er, there is a tine growth of ash, elm, maple and cotton- 
wood, while in otlicM- localities are found poplar, oah, hickory, 
walnut, linn and other varieties. In the north some pine is 
found. '■' Sometimes the woodland extends continuouslv aloiii"' 
the Mississippi foi- miles ; again it stretches in a wide l>elt far 
off into the country, marking the course of some tributary 



FROM CHICAGO TO THE MISSOURI. 



137 



stream ; and often in vast groves, several miles in extent, stand- 
ing alone, like islands in the wilderness of a^rass and flowers." 

Among fruit trees the apple and pear flourish best. Peach 
trees grow luxuriantly but seldom bear well. Plums, grapes 
and gooseberries are indigenous. The cereals attain an uncom- 
mon perfection and potatoes are a favorite staple. The soil is 
easily cultivated and the products resulting from labor are 
always satisfactory and sometimes incredible. 

In 1860 the assessed value of property was as follows : 
Real Estate, - - - - $149,433,423 

Personal Property, - - - 55,733,560 

Total, ----- $205,166,983 
The true value of real and personal property in 1850 and 
1860 was respectively as follows : 

In 1850, -----$ 23,714,638 

In 1860, ----- 247,338,265 

showing an increase in ten years of $223,623,627, or the enor- 
mous increase of about nine hundred and forty-three per cent. 
The number of acres of improved lands in 1850 was 824,682 
and in 1860 it was 3,780,253. The cash value of farms in 
1850 was $16,657,567 : in 1860 it was $118,741,405. In 1850 
the value of farming implements was $1,172,869 and in 1860 
it was $5,190,042. The return of live stock for 1850 and 
1860 shows as follows : 



Horses 

Asses and Mules 

Milch Cows 

Working Oxen 

Other Cattle 

Sheep 

Swine 

Total 
18 



1850. 



88,536 


174.957 


754 


5,713 


45,704 


188,546 


21,892 


56,563 


69,025 


291,145 


149,960 


258,228 


323,247 


991,161 



649,118 



1S60. 



1,966,313 



138 



TURNER S GUIDE TO THE ROCKY MOUNTAINS. 



The value of live stock in 1850 was $3,689,275 ; in 1860 
it was $21,776,786. 

The following table gives a comparative statement of the 
chief productions of agriculture for the years indicated : 



Wheat bushels, 

Rye " 

Indian Corn '* 

Oats " 

Irish Potatoes " 

Barley " 

Buckwheat " 

Value of Orchard Products dollars, 

A'alue of Market Gardens " 

Value of Home-made Manufactures.. " 

Value of Animals slaughtered " 

Butter pounds. 

Cheese " 

Hay tons. 

Wine gallons. 



1850, 



1860. 



1,530,581 


8,433,205 


19,916 


176,055 


8,656,799 


41,116,994 


1,524,345 


5,879,653 


276,120 


2,700,515 


25,098 


454,116 


52,516 


216,524 


8,434 


131,234 


8,848 


141,149 


221,292 


314,016 


821,164 


4,403,462 


2,171,188 


11,526,002 


209,840 


901,220 


89,055 


707,260 


420 


3,706 



Iowa derives its name from the river, so called, and was 
originally, as before stated, a part of the vast territory included 
in the Louisiana purchase. The first settlement of white 
men within the present limits of the state was made by Julien 
Dubuque, a Canadian Frenchman, in 1788. He obtained a 
grant of a large tract of land including the present city of 
Dubuque and the adjacent rich mineral lands. Here he built 
a fort, mined lead and traded with the Indians until his death, 
in 1810. In 1834, Iowa was placed under the territorial 
jurisdiction of Michigan ; and in 1837, Michigan having been 
admitted as a state, the jurisdiction of Wisconsin was extended 
over Iowa. Other settlements than already mentioned were 
not made till 1833, when companies of Americans settled in 
the vicinity of Burlington and soon afterwards at other points 
on the Mississippi. It was not until June, 1838, that Iowa was 
erected into a separate territory, the seat of government being 



FROM CHICAGO TO THE MISSOTJKT. 13D 

at Burliiigton. The territoiy then comprised an immense 
breadth of country, amounting to 194,603 square miles. In 
December, 1846, less than twenty-two years ago, Iowa became 
a state of the Federal Union, and from that time forward has 
made marvelous strides in the march of enterprise, improve- 
ment and wealth. It is perhaps doubtful if any other state 
or country in the world presents equal inducements for settle- 
ment. Lands are cheap and the area open for selection is 
very large. The quality of the soil is unsurpassed. The 
climate is good and water abundant. The facilities for markets, 
though not yet perfected in all sections, are fast progressing 
and will soon be admirable. Millions of broad acres await 
the advent of the intelligent worker. A few hundred dollars 
and reasonable industry will secure a home and insure perpet- 
ual independence and plenty. Opportunities almost without 
number are within the reach of all comers. Mechanics, 
artisans, laborers of all kinds and classes are wanted and 
welcomed. Hydraulic power is wasting, lands are lying bar- 
ren and unproductive, all for the want of human heads and 
hearts and hands. The wants of Iowa are great, but they 
are only those which spring from an almost infinite wealth 
of opportunities. 

Clinton is situated on the west bank of the Mississippi 
river, and is a city of fair proportions and flourishing business. 
The population is estimated at some seven thousand. x\n 
actual count might reduce or increase this number. Activity, 
growth, enterprise and energy are apparent in every quarter. 
The location is level, somewhat monotonous, and, but for the 
fine water view, would be as uninteresting as any exclusively 
prairie town. The streets are well laid out, wide and decently 
improved. The business houses are beyond the average in 



140 TURNER^S GUIDE TO THE ROCKY MOUNTAINS. 

similar places, some blocks being really metropolitan in their 
appearance. The Toll Block is a splendid structure and 
would do credit to any city. The private residences indicate 
a high order of taste and present an exhibition of superior 
skill. The hotels are very good, especially the Iowa Central 
House which, in point of comfort and even luxury, is hardly 
surpassed anywhere. The schools are quite superior and the 
citizens seem to take a just pride In them. The Chicago & 
North-Western Railway Company have here a large round- 
house and extensive workshops. To the account of this rail- 
road Clinton may credit very much of what she is or is to be. 
Yet the people hei'^ know, and seem to act upon that knowl- 
edge, that a river, no matter how long and large, and a railroad 
however important, well managed and liberal, cannot make 
successful towns without other and further effort. Hence, 
prophecies of future greatness, which are not only abundant 
but evidently sincere, are coupled with such enterprise as, 
together with natural facilities, give hope of speedy fulfillment. 
The lumber business is large ; in fact it is doubtful if any 
other place west of Chicago deals so heavily in this article, so 
essential to a prairie country. The saw mills of C. Lamb & 
Son and others are superb in their kind. S. L. Toll & Sou 
are heavy manufacturers of lumber into doors, blinds and 
other articles of use, and have a first class establishment. 

Clinton is not a county seat; it has a tributary country only 
upon one side, and has no natural advantages superior to 
many other places upon the river, yet, by that inherent enter- 
prise which is already manifested, slie will soon become a 
town of great trade and importance. It is easy to see, how- 
ever, that the life of the place is in its manufactures, and that, 
to keep pace with the advances of the times, these have to be 



FROM CHICAGO TO THE MISSOURI. 141 

constantlj increased. The facilities for building are excellent. 
The best of rock is quarried in the town itself and good brick 
are cheap. Lumber, of course, is plenty and of the choicest 
(juality. Real estate, though held at figures not unreasonably 
low, is in good demand and salable. The population of the 
town is increasing, and persons of capital can here find plenty 
of chances for investment. Altogether it may be said that 
Clinton is an honor to Iowa and that the traveler is here very 
pleasantly introduced to the trans-Mississippi country. By 
calling upon Frank H. Woodworth, the inquirer may easily 
gain truthful and important information in regard to town 
or country property. 

Two miles up the river is the beautiful little city of Lyons. 
An hourly stage runs from Clinton, so that the detention is un- 
important. Lyons narrowly escaped becoming a great place 
by the passage of the river by the railroad here. For a time 
its fate hung trembling in the balance, and finally the decision 
was against it. The population of the town is about four 
thousand. It is handsomely located, bordering upon the river 
and reaching back upon the pleasant hill sides to the west. 
Beautiful sites for private residences abound. It has a pic- 
turesque aspect and although away from the railroad may be 
considered a desirable location. Its business is quite consid- 
erable and flourishing. The surrounding country is well 
improved and highly productive ; and the trade which centers 
here makes Lyons a wheat market of note. There are many 
attractive residences and the business houses are of a superior 
order. It has been settled about thirteen years. There are 
five flouring mills, some of Avliich are of large capacity. The 
latest improvements in machinery and most desirable inven- 
tions in milling are here in use. Lyons flour stands high in 



142 turner's gtttde to the rocky mountains. 

all markets, east and west. There are three saw mills of large 
capacity, with lath machines, &c. Among other manufac- 
tnring establishments may be mentioned one respectable 
carriage factory and a stave and l)ari'el concern of large pro- 
portions. The schools are first class. One graded and two 
ward schools employ ten teachers and one principal. There 
are also a seminary nnder the control of the Presbyterian 
Synod, and a Catholic school. Learning of all kinds is fos- 
tered and the intelligence of the people stands high. The 
moral and religions aspect of the city is denoted by eight 
churches of respectable dimensions. The Catholics are also 
building a large Cathedral of beautiful design, which will 
soon be completed. The visitor who looks for much that is 
desirable will not be disappointed in Lyons. 

The county of Clinton is very large and very productive. 
An air of plenty is all -pervading. Wheat, oats, barley, Indian 
corn and potatoes are staple crops and are raised in large 
quantities. Grass, of course, is spontaneous and the limit to 
the hay crop is the ability to make it into hay. The prairie 
grass is of fine quality, but tame meadows abound. Passing 
eighteen miles by railroad from the river we reach De Witt, 
the county seat. This town is very far from the geographical 
center of the county but is easily reached from all quarters. 
The population is over two thousand and the trade is consid- 
erable. Efforts have been made to remove the county seat 
from De Witt to Clinton, but without success. The object 
for such a change can only be apparent to interested specula- 
tors. One feature is observable in all prairie towns of even 
moderate pretensions, on the railroad. It is this: each one 
has its store or stores for the sale of agricultural implements 
and farm machinerv. To be without these accommodations 



FROM CHICAGO TO THE MISSOURI. 143 

would be to abandon all hope of growth or of trade. The 
wants of the country demand such depots ; the work of open- 
ing up the splendid farming lands of the West would be 
very inconvenient, if not quite impossible, without them. As- 
sortments are generally full from the minutest instrument to 
wagons, mowers, reapers and threshers of the most approved 
styles and patterns. De Witt is no exception to the rule in 
this respect. There are several churches here and good 
schools ; indeed, a foundation seems to have been laid for a 
pleasant, healthy and important town. From De Witt to 
Cedar Eapids is a distance of sixty-two miles, through a 
prairie country of excellent quality. There are manv fine 
farms on either side of the railroad, respectably if not highly 
cultivated. Orchards are frequent, and groves of Cottonwood 
locust and other trees abound. The usual products of the 
section, are raised in profusion and an air of ab.mdance is 
observable in every direction. The farm-houses have a cheer- 
ful aspect and many barns suggest the probability of garnered 
plenty. Large herds of fat and sleek cattle tairly revel in the 
rich herbage. The towns are not important, but each one 
evidently forms the nucleus of growing wealth and intelli- . 



fi^ence. 



^ 



WHEATLA2.D has about five hundred people, with stores 
churches and schools. ' 

LouDOK rejoices in a population of over three hundred, and, 
very properly, claims to be a rising town. 

Olaeencb numbers her seven hundred or more, and eWnces 
a thrift and enterprise which will soon double the number 
Ot course the inevitable school-house is prominent, and 
church edifices are not wanting. 

Mecha^-icsvii.le rests quietly upon the fertile plain, and. 



144 turner's guide to the rocky mountains. 

with her seven or eight liundred inhabitants, gives promise of 
reasonable increase and considerable prominence. It is in 
Cedar County, and iifteen miles from Tipton, the county seat. 

Mount Yernon has some three hundred souls, and is sur- 
rounded with a country which will warrant the prophecy of 
speedy increase. The Chicago & North-Western Railway 
has called these several places into existence, and made their 
support possible, and their growth certain. But for this great 
thoroughfare, these beautiful prairies would, to a great extent, 
to-day be lying in their primeval solitude, richly laden, it is true, 
with their native herbage, and with their wealth of flowers 
wastine: their " sweetness on the desert air." Railroads are 
great civilizers, and, in truth, are no mean missionaries. 
Wherever they go, churches and school-houses soon fortify 
them on either hand, towns and cities spring from naught into 
prosperous existence, and plenty abounds. IS^o where have 
these remarks been more amply and successfully verified than 
along the line of the great North-Western in Iowa. Its con- 
struction has ultimated in important triumphs of civilization. 

Cedar Rapids is a fine town of about five thousand inhab- 
itants, pleasantly located on the Cedar river, two hundred 
and nineteen miles west of Chicago, in Linn county. The 
situation is healthy, picturesque, and every way attractive. 
The level ground bordering upon the river recedes with a grad- 
ual slope, until it is lost in the high and rolling sections in the 
rear. The opportunities for drainage are excellent, and build- 
ing sites are plenty, and susceptible of being wrought, by tlie 
hand of art, into very beautiful and attractive homes. The 
soil is dry, rich, and productive. Shade trees and shrubbery 
gi'ow with remarkable rapidity, and gardens of vegetables and 
flowers present an aspect of plenty and beauty. The dwel- 



FROM CHICAGO TO THE MISSOURI. 145 

lings are generally of a respectable order, and some are 
highly attractive, giving evidence of a high order of artistic 
taste. The business houses are mostly built of brick, and are 
roomy and substantial. There are four hotels in the place, 
all comfortable, but none pretentious, seven churches, a 
graded school, and two fine ward schools. Cedar river is a 
fine, clear, rapid stream, of large volume, and affords excel- 
lent facilities for manufacturing. A toll bridge connects the 
city with the opposite bank, where there is quite a settlement. 
It would seem that the interests of trade and ag:riculture, of 
city and country alike, should demand the abolition of this 
catchpenny bridge concern, and give perfect freedom to 
travel. The day for such restrictions upon transit has passed. 
The annoyance to the public should be considered by far to 
outweigh the miserable pittance, in the shape of tolls, which 
such corporations are enabled, by some hasty legislative en- 
actments, to pocket. The bridge itself, from present appear- 
ances, will soon tumble down, and the corporation had better 
go with it. Such impediments cannot last. 

A dam, not of the most substantial character, has been 
thrown across the river here, and furnishes an abundance of 
water power. The fall is seven feet, and the amount of water 
presently furnished gives an average power sufficient to keep 
in motion seventy-five runs of stones. This power is capable 
of being greatly increased. The present race is less than 
four hundred feet in length. There are three water flouring 
mills, with theii- ten runs of stones, and, near the depot, a 
new steam mill is nearly ready for operation, with three runs 
more. Transit to the Chicago market requires only thirty-six 
hours. The flour made here stands very high in the market. 
The wheat is almost exclusively of tlie spring varieties, but 



146 turner's guide to the rocky mountains. 

the quality is very superior. The extensive fields in the sur- 
rounding country, groaning beneath a wonderful burthen of 
ripening cereals, give good assurance that these mills need 
never stand still for want of material. 

There is a paper mill of considerable capacity on the w^est 
side of the river. Three saw mills, a stave mill, and a plan- 
ing mill, afford evidence, at least, that timber and lumber are 
not among the unanswered wants of Cedar Rapids. There 
are two foundries and three furniture manufactories here. 
Two w^oolen mills, one driven by water, and the other by 
steam, are using very successful efforts to relieve the New 
England manufacturers from heavy losses in furnishing the 
city and surrounding country with woolen fabrics. 

The wagon factory of Upton, Chambers & Co. is located 
here. These gentlemen, with commendable enterprise, have 
determined to test the question whether the West is obliged 
to depend for an indispensable article of husbandry on manu- 
facturers further east, or supply its own wants in this regard. 
The result, so far, is satisfactory. The " Star Wagon," made 
at Cedar Rapids, is taking a high position in the market. 
The factory is perfect in all its appointments, and supplied 
throughout with the latest improvements and inventions. It 
is pleasant to know that, although these works have grown 
already to quite large proportions, the demand tor wagons has 
far outstripped the capacity to make them, and that large ad- 
ditions are found to be not only desirable, but indispensable. 

The general business of the place is considerable, and 
steadily increasing. One of the most important establish- 
ments is the agricultural implement and farm machinery 
depot of Messrs. F. J. Upton & Co. This establishment is 
widely knowui, and stands second to no similar one west of 



FROM CHICAGO TO THE MISSOURI. 147 

Chicago. During the season now closing they have disposed 
of over four hundred reapers and mowers, as one item of 
their sales. 

Cedar Rapids is an important railroad point. Here is the 
southern terminus of the Dubuque v^ South-Western road, 
which runs north-easterly through Marion, the seat of Linn 
county, Springville, Viola, Anamosa, Langworthy, Monti- 
cello, Sand Springs and Worthington, to Farley, a distance 
of fifty-six miles, where it forms a junction with the Iowa Di- 
N'ision of the Illinois Central Railroad for Dubuque, twenty- 
tliree miles farther on ; thus affording easy access to the 
north-eastern portion of the state, and a ready connection 
with the npper Mississippi and Wisconsin. A road is con- 
templated, and will undoubtedly be soon built, from Burling- 
ton, on the Mississippi, through Cedar Rapids, to intersect the 
Dubuque and Sioux City road at Cedar Falls. It will pass 
np the valley of the Cedar river, and through a very interest- 
ing portion of the state, where railroad facilities are now much 
needed. 

The country surrounding Cedar Rapids is first class. Well 
cultivated farms abound, and a general appearance of thrift 
is observable everywhere. Wheat, corn and grass are the 
leading staples. Orchards are not infrequent, and seem to 
give j)romise of good results. There are some unoccupied 
lands, which can be bought at reasonable prices, and which 
offer unexceptional inducements for settlement. 

Crossing Cedar river by a substantial wooden bridge, the 
train pursues its rapid course over the undulating praii-ie and 
through Fairfax, JSTorway and Florence, twenty-five miles, 
to Blairstown, a village of one thousand inhabitants, situ- 
ated on Prairie creek, a small stream which meanders through 



148 turner's guide to the kocky mountains. 

the town on its way to join the Cedar. The place derives its 
name from John I. Blair, Esq., a gentleman whose efforts in 
behalf of railroad interests at the West, especially in Iowa, 
have given him a wide and well deserved repntation for sagac- 
ity and successful enterprise. It is in the southern tier of 
townships in Benton county, and about midway of the county 
east and west. The county seat is Yinton, about twenty miles 
north, and near the center of the county. 

Blairstown is a thriving town, young, it is true, but destined 
to become an important center of trade, enterprise and 
refinement. Much good taste is already exhibited in the 
distribution and construction of both private and public 
buildings. The roomy and well filled stores, in the business 
street, indicate a healthy condition of affairs, and point to a 
substantial population in town and country as the probable 
consumers. There are three grain elevators here of fair ca- 
pacity, and a steam flouring mill, "svith two runs of stones. 
The churches are Methodist, Presbyterian, Congregational 
and German Evangelical, the first and the last of which have 
each a church edifice. A fine seminary is in course of erec- 
tion, at a cost of several thousand dollars, which will be a 
cherished addition to the town, and give a desirable tone to 
society. The public schools are of a high order, and are Well 
attended. Tangeman, Book & Young are heavy dealers in 
general goods, and purchase all kinds of produce, to accommo- 
date which latter branch of their business they have a large 
warehouse and elevator. The "Pennsylvania House" is a 
very comfortable hotel, well kept by the brothers H. & L. 
Gund, who also keep a general stage oftice. Blairstown is 
the nearest point of approach of the Chicago & J^orth-Western 
and the Chicago, Pock Island & Pacific Pailroads, the distance 



FROM CHICAGO TO THE MISSOURI. 149 

to Marengo, on the latter road, being less than ten miles. A 
daily stage connects the two towns, and runs north to Yinton 
and Cedar Falls. 

The country around Blairstown for many miles is such as 
the agriculturist or the economist delights to look upon. It^ 
a portion of that rich body of land, partly prairie and partly 
bottom, which intervenes between the Cedar and the Iowa 
rivers. Everything of the vegetable kind which is adapted to 
the latitude and climate grows with a luxuriance and attains 
a maturity absolutely surprising. The results of slight and 
imperfect culture are quite remunerative, but a generous sys- 
tem of tillage is followed by a prodigous yield of cereal, grass 
and root crops. The counties of Benton and Iowa are 
studded all over with splendid farms, and thrift and independ- 
ence are exhibited at every turn. The ripening harvest fields 
of July present, as they wave in golden undulations to the 
breeze, a premonition of plent}^, as well as an aspect of rural 
beauty, rarely to be met with in the world. The farm-houses 
and out-buildings are, for so new a country, very superior. 
Timber and woodlands, though by no means covering a large 
breadth, are sufficient for the wants of the people. Many 
fine groves of forest trees have been planted and are growing 
rapidly. Orchards are thrifty and will soon be in such a 
condition of maturity as to furnish fruit in profusion. An 
abundance of unimproved lands is in the market and improved 
farms can be purchased at prices ranging from twenty to fifty 
dollars per acre, according to location and the value of build- 
ins^s. TVater is plenty and good, and no country can boast ol 
a climate of greater salubrity and health fulness. Such, in 
brief, is this delightful section, which invites the immigrant 
to home and plenty. 



150 titrnek's guide to tht: rocky mountains. 

Passing Buckeye station we come speedily to Belle Plaine, 
on the western border of Benton connty and near the banks of 
tlie Iowa river. The phice is properly named, for all around 
the " beautiful plain,- ' covered with its wealth of natural ver- 
dure, flowers and cultivated crops meets the eye. The town 
is laid out with taste and good judgment ; the streets are wide, 
the building lots large, and the slightly rolling surface of the 
ground aftbi'ds e:5^ellent natural drainage. Water of fine 
quality is abundant and easily obtained. It is proverbial for 
its healthfulness as well as desirable for its beauty, thriftiness 
and promise. The population has already I'eached over fifteen 
hundred and is gradually increasing witli the wants of trade 
and tlie demand for mechanical and other industry. As is 
quite general in these new and growing prairie towns, the 
people are orderly, intelligent, earnest workers who have come 
together to better their fortunes, and rear a town distinguished 
for morality, enterprise and solid wealth. They are not 
waiting for some special and mysterious act of providence to 
make them rich, but ai*e intent on helping themselves in such 
way as to deserve success and thus secure it. The railroad 
company have made Belle Plaine the end of a Division, and 
have erected here capacious repair shops and other necessary 
buildings for their accommodation. The' business of the town 
is considerable, well conducted and is increasing in a healthy 
ratio, corresponding to the growth and wants of the surround- 
ing country. It is already seen and felt that the interests of 
town and country demand a large increase in manufacturing 
industry ; hence, mechanics and skilled workers of all kinds 
are not only desired but most heartily welcomed and liberally 
encouraged. Without manufactures, it is sensibly and prop- 
erly argued, no inland town can rise above the level of the 



FROM CHICAGO TO THE MISSOURI. 151 

surrounding country ; and, however remarkable the agricul- 
tural capabilities of the country, they are necessarily limited, 
and if they are the only resource, themselves limit in turn 
the growth of the central town. "With manufactures the town 
reaches out beyond the natural borders of trade and draws 
sustenance, wealth and all the elements of increase and im- 
portance from abroad. The argument is good, and not only 
applicable to this but many other localities. There are four 
churches here, all, it is believed, heartily and successfully 
engaged in e\'angelizing works. The schools answer all edu- 
cational requirements, being well managed and well taught. 
Twenty-five miles away in a north-easterly direction, situated 
on Cedar river, is Yinton, the county seat. 

The location of Belle Plaine is near the corners of four 
counties, Wz. : Benton, Tama, Powesheik and Iowa. These 
counties contain two thousand five hundred and ninety-two 
square miles, or considerably over a million and a half of acres 
of land, nearly every acre of which is capable of easy and 
high cultivation, and from which may be gathered, year after 
yeai", an immense quantity of agricultural productions. 
Wheat and Indian corn are the leading staples, though all the 
cei'eals and root crops grow luxuriantly, and grasses, both 
native and foreign, have no limit. Markets are accessible 
from almost every jDoint and good roads run in every di- 
rection. The country is well watered by rivers, springs and 
brooklets, while wells may be easily and successfully sunk 
almost anywhere. The valleys of the Cedar, Iowa and their 
ti'ibutaries aftbrd abundant timber and Avoodland, in addition 
to which groves of forest trees are easily raised at little ex- 
pense. Orchards grow vigorously, and the country will soon 
be supplied with an excess of domestic fruit. Of course, only 



152 turner's auiDE to the rocky mountains. 

a portion of the trade of these four counties centers at Belle 
Plaine. Among the important business concerns may be 
mentioned E. G. Brown, who deals at wholesale and retail in 
general merchandise, and the large Belle Plaine elevator of 
Twogood & Co., who also conduct a heavy forwarding and 
commission trade and deal largely in grain and agricultural 
implements. Those lopking for cheap and excellent lands for 
settlement, either improved or unimproved will gather much 
valuable information by calling on Clark & Tewksbury or 
Ploward & Johnson at Belle Plaine, two of the best law firms 
of central Iowa, and heavy dealers as agents in real estate. 
These lands, of which there is an abundance, sell at prices 
ranging from twenty to fifty dollars j^er acre. The leading 
hotel at this place is the Sherman House, where the wayfarer 
can find a pleasant stopping place with many of the home 
comforts which he has left behind. It is kept by Wm. D. 
Oyler, a gentleman who seems to know his business. 

Chelsea is the next station going westward, passing which 
we reach Tama City, formerly Toledo station, 270 miles from 
Chicago and 132 from the Mississippi river. This town is in 
Tama county, from which it derives its name. It is delight- 
fully situated on the Iowa river, and has over 1,200 people. 
The business is quite similar in amount and kind to that of 
Blairstown and Belle Plaine, as are also the facilities, soil and 
surroundings. There is a first class graded school, and a 
school-house is now in course of construction at an expense 
of $12,000. The church organizations are four in number, 
viz. : Methodist, Presbyterian, Episcopal and Christian. The 
Methodists alone have a church edifice. Wm. P. Browne 
conducts a large storage, forwarding and commission business, 
sells agricultural implements, and buys grain and other pro- 



FROM CHICAGO TO THE MISSOIJRI. 153 

duce. The JSTational Hotel is in every respect "first class." 
The worthy host, E. J. Brown, understands his business, and 
is attentive to it. The traveling public will here find accom- 
modation not excelled in any town west of Chicago. There 
is also attached a livery stable, perfect in all its appointments. 

Toledo, two and a half miles north of Tama City, is the 
county seat of Tama county, and has a population of between 
ten and twelve hundred. The court house, a brick structure, 
is a prominent building here. It cost over $20,000. A daily 
stage runs between here and the depot at Tama City, carrying 
the mail. The misfortune of Toledo is that it is either too far 
from or undesirably near the railroad. It still retains its 
prominence as the county town, but trade gravitates towards 
the railroad. It is a pleasant, healthy spot, with good schools, 
several churches, and is still prized as a place of residence 
and of considerable business. The leading dealers in and 
agents for the sale of real estate at Toledo are Graham & 
l^elson and Struble Brothers. Either of these firms possess 
reliable information, and are worthy of full confidence. 

Tama county comprises a fine body of land, witli an area 
of 720 square miles, or over 460,000 acres. Iowa river passes 
across the southern end, and the whole county is well watered 
by that river and its tributaries and streams, falling into the 
Cedar, and running north-easterly. The face of the country 
is considerably diversified, the prairies frequently swelling 
into sightly eminences, and stretching away in gentle decli^n- 
ties to meet the thickly-wooded valleys and meandering 
streams. Fine springs are not infrequent. The nativ^e flora, 
interspersed with the verdure of spring-time or early summer, 
is beautiful beyond description, and forms an important fea- 
ture in a wide-extending landscape of peculiar picturesqueness. 
20 



154 turner's guide to the rocky mountains. 

The farm products are tlie same as those before noticed in 
other and adjoining counties. Many choice locations are 
offered to those seeking homes in the West. 

Orford in Tama county, and Legrand in Marshall cf)unty, 
are railroad stations of moderate pretensions, passing which, 
and crossing Timber creek, we come to Marshalltown, the 
seat of justice for Marshall county. For the purpose of illus- 
trating this important town and county, we can do no better 
than make liberal extracts from an able and comprehensive 
sketch recently given to the public by Mr. Charles Aldrich. 
The writer goes on to say that "in the year 1862, a pamphlet 
was published here, with the following imprint : ' Taylor & 
Barnhart, Publishers ; Chapin & Co., Printers.' It was 
devoted to a description and history of this county, and its 
first few paragraphs, containing a concise statement of facts, 
are as pertinent now as when they were written. We there- 
fore extract the following, taking j)lecisure in thus giving our 
worthy predecessors the credit they deserve : 

"Marshall county is situated in about the center of the 
state. It is twenty-four miles square, containing 368,640 
acres. The Iowa river enters the county near the center of 
its north boundary, and taking a general southerly course, 
leaves the county at the center of its eastern boundary. 
About one-quarter of the county lies on the east and north 
side of the river, and the balance on the south and west. The 
Iowa is a fine, rapid stream, of pure, clear water, preserving- 
its volume well at all seasons of the year, and is at an oi-dinary 
stage about forty yards wide. 

■X- * -)f -X- * -Jf 

"The south-eastern portion of the county is well watered 
by the branches of the Skunk river, three or four of which 



FROM CHICAGO TO THE MISSOURI. 155 

rise in the county and flow south ; Clear creek is the most 
important, and runs through the west j)art of Eden township 
for about eight miles. 

"The face of the country is of that peculiarly undulating 
character incident to prairie countries ; no high hills, no rocky 
glens or deep valleys. Along the river are some extensive 
bottom prairies from a mile to two miles broad, which are 
very level, and some of the lowest in high water are subject 
to overflow. These bottoms make the best of meadows for 
the cultivated grasses, and are the natural early pasture 
o-rounds in their wild state. Grass starts on these bottoms 
from two to three weeks before it does on the high prairies. 
The rolling prairie is the prairie proper, and is by far the 
greatest part of the county. It rises gradually in easy swells ' 
from fifty to a hundred feet above the bed of the river, and 
forms fine table-lands intersected by small streams winding 
through its li\T[ng verdure to the Iowa. The table-land or 
upland prairie is di*y and rolling, having a deep, rich, alluvial 
soil, free from stone, and lacking no properties to grow in 
perfection any product suited to the climate. In its natural 
state it is covered with fine short grass, and an infinite variety 
of the floral tribes, from the stately rosin weed down to the 
bright-eyed, lowly violet. 

"This county contains 33,000 acres of timber or wood land, 
mostly on the Iowa river, but small groves are scattered on 
the smaller streams in almost every part of the county. Tim- 
ber creek grove is the largest of these detached groves, and 
contains about five thousand acres of the best timber in the 
county. The timber is composed of oak, (white, red, burr 
and jack,) black walnut, butternut, hickory, hackberry, ash, 
elm, etc. The supply of timber is better than in most counties 



156 TURNEK^S GUIDE TO THE KOOKY MOUNTAINS. 

in the state, and an abundance for the wants of the country 
for many years to come ; and the settlement of prairie coun- 
tries always increases the growth of timber by keeping down 
fires in the groves, and by tlie planting of groves on the 
prairies. There are doubtless more acres of timber growing 
to-day than there were ten years ago. Trees grow very 
rapidly, and the prairie is becoming dotted with locust and 

Cottonwood groves. 

* -X- -;<- * -sf * 

"The principal varieties of timber cultivated thus far are the 
Cottonwood, white willow, silver (soft) maple and Lombardy 
poplar. All things considered, it is our opinion that the culti- 
vation of the maple, from the seed, will give the most satis- 
factory results. This seed ripens in May or the first of June, 
and if planted at once and cultivated like corn, the young 
trees attain an altitude of three or four feet tlie first season. 
The second season will see many of them eight feet high — 
which is certainly rapid enough to satisfy any reasonable cul- 
tivator. A very few years will see such timber fit for rails or 
raih'oad ties. 

* -)t vf -K- ^ -Jf 

"During the past three or four years considerable attention 
has been paid to grape culture in this and surrounding towns. 
Already several vineyards have been started, while the 
farmers are waking up to the ease with which they can supply 
themselves with this choice fruit, and are planting vines as 
fast as their means and circumstances will permit. Our dry 
rolling prairies are well adapted to tlie vine, while the shel- 
tered nooks along the timbered margins of the streams seem 
to be its natural habitat. The fact that timber screens can be 
so easily and so rapidly grown, will obviate all objection to 



FROM CHICAGO TO THE MISSOURI. 157 

the prairies for grape culture. It is a well ascertained fact, 
that a belt of white ^\dllow, cotton wood or silver maple, 
planted at the same time the young vines are set out, will 
afford ample protection to a vineyard as soon as it really needs 
it. From the impetus which grape culture has received up to 
this date, and the preparations which many culturists are 
making for engaging in it extensively, there can be but little 
doubt that in a few years grapes and wine will be very largely 
produced in Marshall county. 

* -Jf * -Sf -x- * 

" Apples are succeeding with us very finely, many varieties 
maturing here in greater perfection than we have ever seen 
them elsewhere. Early cultivators, who brought their trees 
from far eastern nurseries, failed as a matter of course ; but 
now, after many have sustained heavy losses, and hammered 
out an experience which has stood the test of years, there is 
no doubt that with a proper selection of varieties, success is 
certain. 

* * -jf ^^ -x- * 

"Peaches can only be raised here by burying the trees in 
winter, or giving them some equally effective protection ; but 
our county is a very j^aradise for all kinds of small fruits. 
The strawberry, currant, raspberry, gooseberry, succeed here 
as well as in any climate in the world, rewarding the cultivator 
amply for all his care and toil. Fortunes may be made 
right here, by cultivating almost any of these, for if our mar- 
ket is ever overstocked, they may be canned or made into 
wine, for distant markets. 

"Little or nothing has yet been done in the direction of 
hop raising in our county, but the facts that the hop is an 
indigenous production, and that it hardly ever fails to mature, 



158 TURNER'S GUIDE TO THE ROCKY MOUNTAINS. 

fiilly sliow that its culture on a large scale would be very prof- 
itable. In the absence of poles, a system of trellising has 
been adopted, which is said to be admirably adapted to the 
wants of a prairie region. It would richly reward industrious 

men to look into this subject. 

* * -:f -}f * 4f 

" Our soil, while apparently drying rapidly after the melting 
of deep snows, or heavy falls of rain, yet possesses the quality 
of retaining moisture in a very remarkable degree. The 
gently rolling surface also carries off all surplus water. In 
no other section have we ever observed those two qualities so 
equally balanced. The consequence of this is, that whether 
the season be wet or dry, the Marshall county farmer is always 
sure of a crop. And it is a fact, that during the fifteen to 
seventeen years since our county first began to be settled, 
there has been no failure in our crops — a fact that can be 

stated of but few localities in the country. 

* * -)f -jf -jf * 

" The immense population which the opening of our great 
highway will cause to spring up all along the Rocky moun- 
tains, will for years to come absorb the surplus products of 
central Iowa — the garden of the west — and render the 
labors of the agriculturist successful and remunerative beyond 
contingency. These facts, coupled with the low price both of 
farms and unimproved lands, must cause this region to receive 
constant additions to its population. We are witnessing the 
results of these adv^antages in the unexampled rapidity with 
which our county is now growing. 

* * -X- -X- -x- * 

"The citizens of Marshalltown have ever been noted for 
their enterprise in road and bridge building, not always con- 



FROM CHICAGO TO THE MISSOURI. 159 

fining their aid to the highways that lead to their town. 
Different portions of the county have been the recipients of 
their bounty, and even the dreaded Skunk, with her quagmire 
bottoms, has been rendered passable through the contributions 

of her citizens. 

* -H- -X- -:v -x- -sf 

" The educational interests of Marshall county are at least 
keeping pace with, if not in advance of, her material interests. 
The youth of the county are amply provided for, and the 
privileges of a good school are within the reach of all classes 
in the community. The people of Marshall county believe 
in schools. Parents throughout the county take an honorable 
pride in these public institutions, to which, under all circum- 
stances, they can look as the safe and profitable resort of their 
children, and where they are trained to those physical, intel- 
lectual and moral habits, which bless every station, and pre 
vent poverty, vice and crime. 

"In the higher departments of learning there are two insti- 
tutions at present, in successful operation. 

^ ^ -jf ^ -jf * 

" In addition to these seminaries there is, in eacli town, a 

system of graded schools. 

* -jf -^ -jf * -K- 

" As few towns of its size in the West can boast of as large 
an amount of business — converging, as it does, from a district 
of country radiating from here in almost every direction for 
50 or 60 miles — so, few present more attractive inducements 
to purchasers. Our dry goods, grocery, agricultural imple- 
ment, drug, leather, book and stationery, hardware, clothing, 
and furniture stores are always supplied with heavy stocks in 
their respective lines, and their annual sales foot up surj)ris- 



160 turner's guide to the rocky mountains. 

inglj heavy amounts. Trade is upon a very healthful basis — 
there having been but one small failure here during the past 
three years." 

This interesting and truthful account of Marshalltown, and 
the county which it adorns, has been given here with especial 
satisfaction, because it is generally not only descriptive of the 
locality to w^hich it immediately refers, but is equally appli- 
cable to other counties and towns in tlie vicinity, and to the 
business and interests of a very important section of the 
state. 

A more minute and particular account of Marshall county, 
with graphic descrijDtions and personal reminiscences, may be 
found in a little volume recently published by Mrs. Nettie 
Sanford. To give a particular description of the business of 
Marshalltown, or even a list of the active business men, would 
occupy too much space. A few must suffice. Boardman & 
Brown, as a law firm, stand at the very front of their profes- 
sion in Iowa. They do a large business, and are legal 
advisers for the Chicago and IN'orth-Western Railway Com- 
pany. They have also a real estate agency, for the sale and 
purchase of lands, payment of taxes, &c. Johnson & Hara- 
don are also lawyers and real estate agents of good repute, 
and are doing a thri\H[ng business. D. W. Cunningham 
deals largely in lumber. E. G. Sleight is a storage, forward- 
ing and commission merchant, and buys grain. E. G. Sleight 
iSz Co. keep a large agricultural warehouse and seed store. 
The First National Bank of Marshalltown is located here. 
The " Williams House," near the depot, is large, and well 
conducted by Williams & Brother. Bailroad passengers dine 
at this house. 

Fourteen miles west of Marshallt(>wn, and in the same 



FROM CHICAGO TO THE MISSOURI. 1^1 

county, is the fine village of State Center. This thriving 
town is situated on the head waters of Timber creek, and has 
an exceedingly pleasant location. The view from the west- 
ward is especially fine. It was founded less than five years 
ago, and in that time has made a remarkable advance in 
wealth and imjDortance. Its population is about three hun- 
dred, and its stores, shops and manufactories give evidence ot 
present prosperity, and assurance of future progress. A large 
public school has already been erected, and is furnished with 
the most modern conveniences. It is in the midst of a very 
fertile section of country, which brings its wheat, corn and 
other marketable commodities here for sale, and purchases its 
supplies from merchant and mechanic. The stores are well 
filled with stocks of such goods as the country needs, includ- 
ing, of course, a full assortment of agricultural implements, 
and a variety of farm machinery. Town and country are 
healthy as well as pleasant, and in either there is plenty of 
room for new-comers of enterprise and industry. The re- 
marks heretofore made in reference to Marshall county apply 
with great force to the surroundings of this vigorous and 
hopeful town. It is true that State Center has a powerful 
competitor in the county seat, but there is room enough, on 
these fat prairies, for both to grow. 'No addition can be made 
to either town without benefiting the other nor without being 
of very positive advantage to the country from which both 
di'aw life. 

Leaving State Center we immediately enter the county of 
Story and passing the small depot town of Colo, reach 
JS'evada the seat of justice of Story county, a pleasant prairie 
town of from ten to twelve hundred people. The county was 

organized in 185-1, and the first house was built in Kevada 
21 



162 turntsr's guide to the rocky mountains. 

the same year. Tlie town was doomed to many years of 
languish ment and to those untoward vicissitudes incident to an 
inland point without the means of egress to the outside world, 
when, happily, the railroad now a part and parcel of the great 
Chicago & USTorth-Western corporation, came, like a special 
providence, to its relief. The location was excellent, the sur- 
rounding country beautiful and rich in organic functions 
almost beyond comparison, hypothetical wealth and import- 
ance stood out in large proportions and colored with hues 
deeply tinted a la rose^ yet ingress and egress were slow, ex- 
pensive and altogether too occasional. Anon the railroad 
came with its ponderous engines and sweeping trains, almost 
entirely annihilating distance and overcoming obstructions 
which had theretofore startled the traveler and retarded immi- 
gration. The golden moment was known to be at hand. 
Hope deferred became crystallized in pleasurable fruition. 
Story county, by this new order of things, experienced a sort 
of miraculous reconstruction, and l^evada, the county seat, 
was put in connection with the world of civilization. The 
town is peculiarly and particularly of the prairie order. The 
fecund soil will certainly cause grass to grow under the feet 
of the pedestrian unless his steps are made to the measure of 
quick music. In this there is no respect paid to persons. 
The town has fair developments and fair pros2:)ects. Already 
there are four general stores, three drug stores, all of them 
very fine and affording the only token that the place and 
county are not blessed with perennial liealth ; two grocery 
stores, one variety store, one clothing store, two hardware 
stores and one leather and harness store. Honorable mention 
deserves to be made of the fact that this place, like Cedar 
Rapids, has no sak)on nor any pUice whatevei* where alcoholic 



FROM CHICAGO TO THE MISSOURI. 163 

liquors are publicly sold. There is a union graded school 
with buildings costing ten thousand dollars, free to all, which 
is in a very flourishing condition. The churches are Metho- 
dist, JS'ew School Presbyterian and Cumberland Presbyterian, 
which latter we confess to be an outshooting of evangelism 
l)eyond our knowledge or comprehension. Spiritualism has 
here no specific organization, but has some adherents. 

The county of Story has not a large population, although it 
is gradually and surely adding to its numbers. Ten thousand 
is now the ultimate figure. It contains five hundred and 
seventy-six square miles or three hundred and sixty-eight 
thousand six hundred and forty acres of land. The inevitable 
prairie abounds, rich, black and productive, interspersed at 
intervals with fine groves of oak, hickory and walnut, with 
maple and elm along the streams. At least one-fifteenth of 
the surface is covered with timber. Nearly one-third of the 
county is waste and wild, ready to be appropriated at mod- 
erate cost by new-comers. The soil, of sandy loam and 
vegetable mould, is everywhere deep with a subsoil of clay 
and gravel. Water is abundantly distributed by the Skunk 
river, east and west Indian and Squaw creeks and their 
numerous tributaries. Springs of pure, cold water are often 
met with. The surface is generally sufi&ciently rolling to 
afford perfect natural, and in all places to make easy artificial 
drainage. Some coal deposits have been found in the county, 
but none have yet been practically developed. There are 
several quarries of fine building stone. The climate is healthy 
and pleasant. Unimproved lands sell at from four to ten dol- 
lars per acre, and improved farms from fifteen to thirty dollars. 
Timber lands^ range from fifteen to sixty dollars per acre. 

Ames is in the western portion of Story county on the 



164 tfrner's guide to the rooky mountains. 

Skunk river. The first settlement was made in July, 1865, 
about which time the railroad was opened to the place. The 
population is now not far from five hundred. The business of 
the town is considerable. There are four general stores, one 
hardware store, two drug stores, three grocery stores and two 
lumber dealers. Messrs. Evans & Co. deal largely in grain 
and other produce and sell agricultural implements arid farm 
machinery. Marshall, Drake & Rainbolt have a real estate 
and collecting agency, and Mr. Rainbolt is an attorney at law. 
The town being within two miles of the agricultural college 
of the state, a special act of the legislature prohibits the sale 
of wine, beer or any spiritous hquors. As the general law 
does nearly the same thing the special one may be considered, 
perhaps, as a work of supererogation. If both laws are not 
violated, Ames may well claim the " crown of virtue " in 
Iowa. The liveliest interest is taken in schools and a fine 
union school-house is nearly comj)leted. Tlie churclies are 
Methodist Episcopal and the Congregation alist, each having 
a good house of worship. There are two hotels. Ames is 
directly north of Des Moines the capital, and very near the 
geographical center of the state. 

The Iowa Agricultijral College, an imposing structure, 
is located on the state farm, about one mile and a half from 
Ames. The college is in plain view from the railroad. The 
officers of the institution are as follows : 

Hon. E. F. Gue, President. 

Hon. H. M. Thomson, Seci'etarv and Superintendent of 
Farm. 

Maj. S. E. Rankin, Treasurer. 

C. A. Dunham, Architect. 

The farm contains several hundred acres of excellent land. 



FROM CHICAGO TO THE MISSOURI. 165 

selected witli due reference to geographical position, timber, 
water and qnalitj of soil. All these conditions are happily 
blended. The college building is of brick, of ample dimen- 
sions and constructed with due regard to its prospective uses. 
It is nearly completed, and will be apj)ropriately opened on 
the 21st of October, of this year. This is an institution of 
great importance to the state of Iowa, and cannot be too 
highly prized by the intelligent yeomanry of that state. It 
has taxed the time and energies of the best talent to bring it 
into existence and will, it is hoped, long stand as a monument 
to the names of its projectors. The college is munificently 
endowed by an act of Congress appropriating lands for such 
purposes, as will appear from the following extracts from the 
second annual report of the trustees : 

"In July, 1862, Congress appropriated the several loyal 
states in the Union, for Agricultural Colleges, 30,000 acres of 
land for each Senator and Representative in Congress. The 
amount under this grant, to the state of Iowa, was 240,000 
acres. Any state accepting this grant is required, by the 
terms of the grant, to erect the necessary college buildings, 
without using any of the proceeds of the lands for that pur- 
pose, within five years from the time of the acce23taiice of the 
grant. The state of Iowa, at the special session in September, 
1862, accepted this grant, with this and other conditions im- 
posed therein. 

"Peter Melendy was appointed by the Governor to select 
the lands embraced in the grant, and in October of the same 
year entered upon the work. 

"The following extracts from his report will show how and 
where the lands were located : 

" ' It was ascertained that there were about 6,000,000 acres 



166 turner's guide to the rocky mountains. 

of vacant lands remaining in tlie state, two-thirds of which 
were in the Siuux Citj district, comprising all the counties 
north of township 85 and west of range 33. It required some 
days to prepare the necessary maps and plats for reference, 
and I was ready to commence the examination of lands about 
the first of IS^ovember. It soon became apparent that the 
land speculations of a few years since had reached, in various 
directions, from the settlements along the rivers, and that a 
large part of the timber had been entered, together with con- 
siderable portions of the adjacent prairie. Under these cir- 
cumstances I adopted the policy of selecting good lands only, 
even if they were so far from timber as to be slightly depre- 
ciated at present below the minimum of the government 
price. I considered it expedient also (confirmed by the 
opinion of several of the college trustees) to select about 
50,000 acres within the six mile limits of the land grant rail- 
roads — the Dubuque and Sioux City and the Cedar Rapids 
and Missouri River Railroads. For convenience, these will 
be designated as railroad lands, and as they are taken at the 
maximum price it reduces the aggregate to about 200,000 
acres. It is believed, however, that by the extension of these 
roads this class of lands will become quite as remunerative to 
the college fund as any of the lands selected at the minimum 
price. In the selections I have kept in view the adaptation 
of the lands to agricultural purposes, especially for grain- 
growing and stock-raising ; also, the probable points of mar- 
ket, when the country becomes settled, and generally their 
location near the line of roads as well as probable towns ; and 
in the railroad lands, in most instances, their position in 
reference to probable stations, or on roads leading through or 
near them to railroad depots. 



FROM CHICAGO TO THE MISSOURI. 167 

* * -Sf * -Jf * 



a c 



30,000 


acres. 


85,000 




20,000 




50,000 




6,000 




4,000 





The quantity in the several land districts, and the quan- 
tity of raifroad lands, are indicated, nearly, in round numbers, 
by the following figures : 

Fort Dodge district railroad lands 

" " " other lands - 

Sioux City district railroad lands - 

" " " other lands - 

Des Moines " railroad lands 
" " " other lands - 

Total, about ------- 195,000 '\ 

'' ' These figures, like those referring to the lands in some 
of the counties, will be slightly changed in perfecting the list, 
by the omission of some tracts selected by the counties, and 
perhaps by some pre-emptions. The apparent deficit in the 
total number is made up, nearly, by considering the maxi-. 
mum-priced railroad lands at twice their actual quantity.' 

"By a subsequent adjustment of the selections with the gen- 
eral government, the number of acres embraced in the grant 
was brought up to 204,309 acres, which amount was certified 
to the state." 

None of these lands are as yet sold, but a large proportion 
has been leased. The land agent says, in his report of 
December last, that no absolute sales have been made, " the 
contracts being wholly in form of leases, with a right of pur- 
chase to the lessee, or his assignee, and consequently no part 
of the principal has been received, nor is it probable that the 
purchase-money on many of the leases will be paid until at or 
near the expiration of the term of lease. 

" All leases have been so drawn as to terminate on or 



168 turner's guide to tme rocky mountains. 

before the 31st day of December, 18Y5, at which time it is 
expected that all of the lands will have been disjDOsed of, the 
principal collected and remitted to the college, and all busi- 
ness pertaining to the land agency closed up." 

A few miles further travel brings us to the city of Montana 
and end of the railroad division. The following description 
of this important place, and a glance at the county has been 
furnished by D. L. Smith, Esq. : 

" Montana is located on the line of the Chicago and North- 
Western Railway, two miles north and two and one-half miles 
east of the center of Boone county, Iowa, and two miles north 
and fifteen miles west of the geographical center of the state. 
It is 342 miles west of Chicago, 203 west of Clinton, 121 west 
of Cedar Rapids, 121 east of the Missoui-i river, 40 north of 
Des Moines, and 40 south of Fort Dodge. 

"The city was surveyed and platted in March, 1865, by 
the railroad king of Iowa, John I. Blair, of Blairstown, N. J., 
President of the Cedar Rapids and Missouri River Railroad 
Company, and under the supervision of the efficient Secretary 
and chief engineer of that company, W. W. Walker, of Cedar 
Rapids, who advertised that on the 29th of the same month 
there would be a sale of lots at auction. At that time the 
nearest railroad point was Nevada, twenty-five miles east, 
and the land which is now the site of Montana was mostly an 
unbroken prairie. Many were present at the sale as specta- 
tors, having little or no faith, while many that came with the 
intention of purchasing were discouraged, and returned be- 
lieving the scheme a failure. But through certain promises 
of Messrs. Blair and Walker, numbers, knowing that what 
they purposed they performed, were induced to buy, and the 
sales of that day amounted to twelve thousand dollars. 



FROM CHICAGO TO THE MISSOURI. 169 

" And well have these gentlemen kept their promise, for 
through their instrumentality Montana is now the terminus 
of the East and West Iowa Divisions of the Chicago and 
JSTorth-Western Eailway, which necessitates an immense out- 
lay of capital at this point for the erection of car and locomo- 
tive works, round-house, etc. 

" The Railway Company has erected a round-house contain- 
ing twenty-nine stalls, furnished with all the modern conven- 
iences for heating, supplying water, etc. It is built of brick, 
with iron-girded slate roof, and fire-proof, making it the 
largest and most complete in the Korth-west. Also, a 
brick blacksmith shop 40 x 100 feet, a repair shop, supply 
store, etc. 

" Among the improvements made by the company last sea- 
son is a depot building 40 x 200 feet, and two and one-half 
stories high, with a dining hall sufficiently capacious to accom- 
modate two hundred and fifty persons, and of which any town 
might justly be proud. The Railway Company is now pre- 
paring to erect a machine shop 70 x 200 feet, together with a 
large car shop, which when completed ^vill form the most 
extensive railroad works west of the Mississippi. 

" The first building in Montana was put up in July, 1865, 
and at present the city contains a population of over three 
thousand souls. The completion of the works above referred 
to will require the presence of three hundred additional em- 
ployees, with their families, making it fair to suppose that the 
addition to the population from this source alone will reach 
fifteen hundred in three months. The augmented demand 
for labor and capital which must be occasioned by this in- 
crease, together with the rapid development of the agricultural 

district, lead to the belief that the influx of population from 
22 



170 turner's guide to the rocky mountains. 

other sources will fully equal tlie above figures during the 
next year, making an increase of one hundred per cent. 

" Sixty thousand messages are received and dispatched from 
the telegraph office per annum. 

"Four Express lines diverge from the Montana division office. 
Two daily lines east over the Chicago & Xorth-W<istern Rail- 
way, requiring the services of seven messengers ; two daily 
lines west, over the same road, with five messengers ; one 
daily line north and one south. The local business of the of- 
fice amounted to $22,690.63 the past year. 

" The natural advantages of location and proximity to tim- 
ber and coal have not been overlooked by capitalists. In the 
past month many of the prominent railroad fronts have been 
sold for manufacturing purposes. 

" Of churches, the city contains one in a finished condition, 
and two in course of construction. 

" Two brick school-houses are being erected, at a cost of six 
thousand dollars each, and a site has been purchased for a 
High School building to be erected next season at a cost of 
twenty-five thousand dollars. 

" The business transacted by the Chicago & North- Western 
Railway at this point, in freight and passengers, for the year 
ending December 31st, 1867, amounted to $225,252.72 ; and 
the net earnings of the entire road for the same year foot up 
$12,610,492.64. Eighteen trains pass over the road daily, all 
of which are made up at Montana. 

" Boone county contains one hundred and fifty square miles 
of timber of an excellent quality. The whole county is un- 
derlaid by rich and inexhaustible coal beds, the veins, of 
which there are three, varying in thickness from twenty 
inches to six feet. A vein is already opened measuring four 



FROM CHICAGO TO THE MISSOTTRI. 171 

feet, and the coal is found of a superior quality, burning free 
from clinker and leaving nothing but a white ash. Previous 
to 1865 no coal was mined in the county; and at the present 
time one thousand souls are employed in the mines, and 
hundreds of tons shipped daily for the use of the Chicago & 
T^orth-Western and Union Paciiic Railroads. 

"The fire-clay, of which there is an unlimited supply, is 
shipped east by car loads for potters' use. This clay also 
makes a superior quality of fire-brick, which find market in 
Chicago, and bring one hundred dollars per thousand deliver- 
ed at the depot in Montana. 

"As evidence of the agricultural advantages of Boone 
county, as viewed by immigrants, and the rapidity with 
which it is being settled up, it may be cited that, during the 
month of June last, sixteen thousand acres of land were set- 
tled upon and improvements commenced by actual settlers. 
The following figures exhibit the population of the county for 
three years past; 1866, 5,235; 1867, 9,861; 1868, July 1st, 

14,000." 

Another account gives the foUomng in relation to the 

county : 

"The general surface is imdulating; but in some parts 
rather hilly, especially along the Des Moines river, where 
there are some magnificent blufi"s, and very fine scenery. A 
remarkable chain of hills called " Mineral Ridge," passes en- 
tirely through the north side of the county. The original 
surveyors are said to have complained that their compass 
needles were distracted when running lines over this ridge, 
from which fact they inferred that mineral existed in the hills. 
Hence the name. 

" The timber is principally along the Des Moines river, and 



172 turner's guide to the rocky mountains. 

is perhaps as fine a body of timber as can be found in any 
part of the state, averaging in width through the county 
about four miles. There are also several groves of good tim- 
ber on Equiwa creek in the north-east part of the county, and 
on Amaqua creek in the west part. Altogether about one- 
fifth part of the county is timbered. The wood lands include 
all varieties of timber indigenous to the state, the most com- 
mon being oak, walnut, hickory, linn, ash, sugar maj)le and 
elm ; plums, crab aj)ples, cherries, grapes, blackberries, rasp- 
berries and strawberries grow wild, in abundance. 

" The soil is a rich loam, similar to that on the high prairie 
all over the central part of the state, and in this respect will 
compare favorably with any other county. It appears to be 
well adapted to spring wheat, oats and corn. Rye and barley 
are sure crops, but little raised as yet. Timothy and blue 
grass grow well. 

" Coal mining ha^? now become a leading busines.s. From 
five hundred to a thousand tons can be raised daily, when all 
the mines are in operation, and the coal is not only used by the 
towns and cities east and west of us, but two hundred miles 
of the Xorth-Western Railway supplied ; besides a large por- 
tion of the coal used on the Union Pacific Railroad, is furnished 
from the Boone county inexhaustible coal fields. If five 
hundred tons were raised dui'ing the working days of a year, 
at $4 50 pel' ton, the price jiaid by the railroad company, it 
would amount to nearly lialf a million of dollars, or about 
one-fourth the assessed value <tf all the real and personal 
pi'operty of Boone county. According to all appearances and 
estimates, the coal beds of tlie county are able to supply that 
amount of coal per yeai' foi- one or two centuries at least. 
These speculations are upon tlie supposition that neither the 



FROM CHICAGO TO THE MISSOURI. 173 

number of mining companies nor the capacity for mining 
shall increase, which is contrary to the spirit of advancement 
and enterprise of the age. If coal mining increases as fast as 
such enterprises ordinarily do, the value of coal raised per 
year will, before many years be expressed by millions." 

BooNSBOKO is the county seat of Boone county, and has a 
population of nearly twenty-five hundred. It is situated in 
the center of the county, a short distance from the railroad, 
but in plain sight from Boone station. This place illustrates 
the fact that the passage of a railroad through a town is not 
indispensable to prosperity. Proximity in this case has been 
sufficient. Boonsboro has perhaps received all the advantages 
of rail communication without any of its annoyances. Loca- 
tion, capital, intelligence and enterprise are here felt to be the 
chief elements of success, and they are successful. The place 
has a large trade, and is, withal, a growing and important 
town. The good schools of Iowa are here fully illustrated, 
and religious privileges abound. Added to all other advan- 
tages, the broad prairie, with its immense agricultural capa- 
bilities, stretches in CA'ery direction, a perpetual guarantee of 
growth and importance. There are many substantial busi- 
ness houses here, among which may be mentioned W. Harris, 
wholesale and retail grocer and dealer in produce, and Logan 
ife Canfield in the same business, and also heavily engaged in 
mining and selling coal at wholesale on the Des Moines river, 
two miles distant from Boonsboro. The stranger will obtain 
ample information in regard to opportunities for investment 
or settlement, by consulting Barnhart & Wilbur, at their Boone 
county land agency ; C W. Williams, attorney at law and 
real estate agent; or J. F. Ecclerton, whose ofiice is devoted 
to the same business. Boonsboro is not a town to be passed 



174 turner's guide to the rocky mountains. 

without examination. Tt is a desirable place for both resi- 
dence and business. It lias already attained a matiiritj 
which, for so vouniJ: a town, is hio^hlv creditable, and there is 
a spirit among the people which Avill not permit the loss of 
advantages already gained, l)iit which will compel further suc- 
cesses. 

MoiNGONA is five miles west of Montana, on the Des Moines. 
Tt is a new town, brought into existence by the mining inter- 
est which centers thereabouts. Here are the great coal mines 
of central Iowa. The N^orth-Western Coal Company's works 
are on the Des Moines river, three-quarters of a mile above 
Moingona. The company owns, in all, a tract of about twenty 
thousand acres of the best coal lands m the West. What is 
called the "old shaft," has been worked since April, 1867. 
The coal from this shaft is lifted by an engine of forty-horse 
power, wliich cost six thousand dollars. The company is also 
working another shaft about half a mile further west, on the 
railroad, which, when opened to its full capacity, will, it is 
expected, deliver four hundred tons of coal per day. The 
thickness of the vein at the old shaft is three and one-half 
feet, and indefinite in extent. At the new shaft the thickness 
is four feet. The quality of the coal in this vicinity is nearly 
uniform. The coal taken from these mines is, by some, 
regarded as superior to any other found in the vicinity, but 
the difference is probably attributable alone to the manner of 
mining. Compared with the Illinois and some other coal the 
product of these mines is, perhaps, a little inferior in some 
respects, and for some uses ; for steam-making there is prob- 
ably little difference, and the preference, if any, is in favor of 
the Moingona coal. There is more sulphur in this coal, and 
a larger admixture of slate, which, burning, forms into clinker. 



FROM CHICAGO TO THE MlSSOmi. 175 

Extra care is required in its use, and even then it must be 
admitted that it is harder on the boiler than Illinois coal. The 
depth of the old shaft is seventj-six feet, and of the new one 
one hundred and thirty feet. The J^orth-Western is also 
operating a drift mine on the east side of the river, of a capa- 
city of about fifty tons per day. These mines are all worked 
by tlie IN^orth-Western Coal Company, under the efficient 
guperintendency of Martin Hinzie, Esq., formerly of Omaha, 
IN'eb. The stockholders are, for the most part, also stockhold- 
ers in the Union Pacific Eailroad, T. C. Durant, Esq., being the 
heaviest. The Union Pacific Company has a contract for the 
whole product of the mines, and it is shipped to the Missouri 
river with all possible dispatch. The value of the coal at the 
mines is about four dollars per ton. Mr. Hinzie has had 
charge here but a few months, but under his superintendency 
the quality of the product has materially appreciated, and the 
cost of mining has been considerably lessened. These results 
have been accomplished by a rigid adherence to system, care 
and economy. The capital stock of this company is $400,000. 
The Moingona Coal Company was organized in 1866, and 
is chiefly owned and operated by John I. Blair, Esq., througli 
the efficient agent and superintendent Mr. H. Parkhurst. The 
comi)any owns about ten thousand acres of excellent coal 
lands, and the deposits are supposed to be inexhaustible for 
centuries to come. Four shafts are already sunk, and two 
drift mines are opened. The daily capacity of these mines is, 
or soon will be, over five hundred tons. Several other persons 
are working drifts, and turning out about one hundred tons 
per day. The surface of the country is uneven and broken. 
In the midst of these wonderful praii-ies, however, it exhibits 
a picturesqueness extremely pleasant and satisfactory. The 



176 turner's guide to the rocky mountains. 

beautiful Des Moines river winds among the hills, and the 
music of its ripples breaks the silence of the adjacent forests. 
Altogether, this is a romantic as well as rich portion of the 
state. At Moingona the traveler will find pleasant lodgings 
at the Moingona House, kept hj Jacob Leppla. 

Speeding rapidly through Ogden, Beaver and Hager, we 
come, in twenty-three miles, to Jefferson, the seat of justice 
for Greene county, containing about seven hundred people. 
The town is handsomely located on tlie high table-land be- 
tween Coon river and Hardin's creek, about half a mile east 
of the former and two miles west of the latter, and very near 
the center of the county. It was laid out in November, 1854, 
but in consequence of having no thoroughfare leading to or 
from it, improved but little until the great Chicago and 
North-Western road penetrated and passed through it. In 
the early days of its existence the travel to Council Bluffs and 
even Sioux City went south through Adel and Winterset. 
Jefferson is situated about seventy-five feet above the river, 
and is sightly, airy and healthy. It contains eight dry goods 
stores, two drug stores, two boot and shoe stores, three hard- 
ware stores, one furniture store, two harness shops, three 
blacksmith shops, one wagon shop, nine lawyers, four physi- 
cians, eight land agents, one banking house, one livery stable, 
two lumber yards, three hotels, and a newspaper. As a hotel 
the Revere House, by Annis Bros., is equal to the best. 
Mickel & Head are bankers and land agents ; Harvey Potter 
is a lawyer and land agent ; H. C. Rippey is attorney at law 
and land agent ; and W. B. Mayer has a general land agency, 
and is also a lawyer. 

Greene county was organized in 1854. There was then 
plenty of game, elk and deer being found in great abundance. 



FROM CHICAGO TO THE MISSOURI. 177 

In 1856 and 1857, however, the snows were so deep that it 
was impossible for them to escape the pnrsuit ot men, dogs 
and wolves, and since then none have been seen. In early 
days there were no roads across the wide prairies, or bridges 
over the streams, and the traveler on the prairie was like a 
ship at sea without compass, and had to take his course as 
1)est he could, relying on his own judgment. To cross the 
prairie in midwinter was dangerous, for fear of getting lost 
and perishing in the cold, and in the spring it was dangerous 
on account of the high waters, and many are the hardships re- 
lated by the early settlers. In the spring of the year, before 
the high waters would subside, the scanty stock of provisions 
would frequently be expended, and families were reduced to 
tlie most straightened circumstances. 

jN'orth Coon river enters Greene county on the west side, 
eight miles south of the north-west corner of the county, and 
flows east and north for about three miles, and then in a 
south-easterly direction to the south-east corner of the county. 
Taking the meanderings of the river, its length in Greene 
county is about 40 miles. It is a rapid flowing stream of 
clear water with gravelly bottom, good timber along its banks, 
and afl'ords an abundance of water power for all kinds of 
manufacturing purposes. There is a high range of bluffs ..n 
each side of the river from 50 to 75 feet in hight, through the 
county, in a few places reaching the river ; but as a general 
tiling are from a half to one and a half miles distant. 
Tlie timber along its banks is from one-half to two miles in 
width, and consists of oak, ash, elm, maj^le, hard and soft, 
Cottonwood, hickory, walnut, butternut, cherry, elm, bass- 
wood, hackberry, &c. 

Cedar creek enters the county from the north, flows south 



178 turner's guide to the rocky mountains. 

and empties into the iS^orth Coon river. There is good tim- 
ber along its banks about half a mile in width. 

Hardin's creek and Butrick's creek both run in a southerly 
direction and fall into North Coon. There is plenty of timber 
along the valleys of these streams. 

In the county there is one flouring mill, and one in process 
of erection, near Jefferson, four water and Ave steam saw 
mills. Tlie amount of lumber manufactured at these mills 
during the past year is about 4,500,000 feet. The amount 
imported from Clinton and Chicago during the past year is 
about 2,500,000 feet. 

The soil is a rich black loam, composed of vegetable depos- 
its, from two to eight feet in depth, with clay subsoil. It 
produces wheat, corn, oats, rye, barley, buckwheat, sorghum, 
potatoes, flax, and in fact all the grains and vegetables com- 
mon to the northern states, in great abundance, and with but 
little labor. 

But little attention has been paid to the raising of fruit, but 
so far as tried, apples do well, and peaches have been raised 
in the county. It is believed that apples, pears, plums, cher- 
ries and the smaller fruits can be produced in the greatest 
abundance along the streams. The tame grape yields well 
where tried, and in fact, no county can beat it. 

The educational facilities are good. Tliere are twenty-six 
school-houses in the county and schools are taught in them 
from six to nine months in the year. 

Tliere is about 20,000 acres of timber in the county, of 
good quality. Prices of timber land range from $15 to $40 
per acre, according to the distance from Jefferson and the 
railroad. 

The number of acres of prairie is 348,640 acres, of which 



FROM CHICAGO TO THE MISSOURI. 1Y9 

10,54:8 are improved. These lands are as rich and productive 
as can be found anywhere in the Union. Prices of unim- 
proved prairie land range from $2.50 to $20 per acre ; at a 
distance of three to ten miles from timber, prairie land can 
be had at from $2 to $5 per acre. Improved lands rate from 
$10 to $30 per acre. 

There is a large ledge of rock in the banks of the North 
Coon river, about six or seven miles above Jefferson. Good 
building stone is found two miles south of Eippey, along the 
river. The cobble-stone, "nigger heads" and boulders are 
found in various parts of the county. 

Coal is found in considerable quantities in the south part of 
the county, on Coon river — and there are indications of it in 
many other parts. Greene county is in the coal field, and it is 
thought there is an abundance of coal underlying it, but we 
are not able to tell tlie depth. There has been but little effort 
to iind it. 

There is a considerable quantity of peat in various parts of 
the county, and in sufficient quantity to insure its being used 
as fuel when the country becomes more populous. 

Perhaps no coimty in the Union gives the farmer greater 
reward for his labor than Greene county. For ages the an- 
nual crops of grass, untouched l)y the scythe, and but partially 
kept down l)y herbivorous animals, have accumulated organic 
matter on tlie surface of the soil to such an extent, that even 
a long succession of exhausting crops will not materially 
impoverish it. The Chicago & North-Western Railway 
passes through the county from east to west, dividing it 
equally north and south ; extends from Chicago to Council 
Bluffs and there connects with the Union Pacific Railroad ; 
also crosses the Mississippi river and terminates at the Mis- 



180 turner's guide to the rocky mountains. 

souri river, giving the farmer the advantage of an eastern 
and western, and also of a northern and southern market 
for his products. 

East of Greene county eleven and twelve miles are the 
hnest coal beds in the state, on the Des Moines river, and 
only about one day's drive from any point in the county. 
In the southern part are line coal l)eds, where the farmei- 
can obtain fuel at i-easonable rates. Lumber for building 
and fencing can be obtained on the railroad at from $30 to 
$70 per thousand. Xative lumber can be had at from $25 
to $30 per thousand. The health of the county is excel- 
lent. Perhaps the only objection that can be urged to it 
is the scarcity of timber; but this objection is obviated 
by the railroad bringing in lumber in great abundance, from 
the great timber regions of the North and East, and it is sold 
so that the farmer can improve his fann much cheaper and 
better than he could in the older and timbered states of the 
East; besides the soil is much easiei- tilled and a great deal 
more productive. 

Timber is easily raised. By planting a few acres of tim- 
ber, a person can in ten or twelve years have all he needs. 
Good drinking water can be obtained at any place in tlie county 
by digging. The average depth of wells is from 10 to 20 
feet. There are several fine sju-ings in the county and a num- 
ber of small streams of living water. All that Greene county 
now needs is 5,000 or 0,000 good industrious farmers to make 
it one of the most beautiful and productive counties of the 
state. 

Ascending almost imperceptibly, but with reasonable speed, 
the eastern acclivity, we leave Scranton aiul Glidden in the 
rear, and in fifty-three miles from Boone station or Montana, 



FROM CHICAGO TO THE MISSOURI. 181 

arrive at Carroll, the seat of justice for Carroll county. 
This is a new town, handsomely located on the railroad, not 
very far from the geographical center of the state, nortli 
and south. It has borne the blushing honors of a county 
seat but a few months, but bears them well. Some three 
hundred people make up the population of tlie l)risk, wide- 
awake and hopeful shire. A commodious school-house, 
costing about $9,000, has already been erected. It is aston- 
ishing with what pertinacity the descendant of the puritans 
sticks to the traditions of his lathers. Wherever he goes, in 
whatever clime he may dwell, whatever skies above him, in 
poverty or in prosperity the school-house and the church are 
the first objects of his attention. For his children, he prefers 
education antl a high moral culture before money ; and for 
himself, he is ready to sacrifice all proper means for the 
accomplishment of the desired end. H(?nce it is that we see 
all through the West where the Anglo-Saxon possesses his 
home in peace, whether in country ur in town, these tidy 
structures knowm as the colleges of the poor man, and see 
glittering spires pointing like the finger of hope to heaven. 
So is it here in Carroll ; the temple and the school-house rise 
together, and with never failing faith the fruits of both are 
looked for in the virtue and intelligence of the rising commu- 
uity. These sagacious people know, for so have they been 
taught and such is their experience, that every dollai* expended 
in these instruments and accessories of civilization is quad- 
rupled in the enhanced value of their property. Thus it is 
that piety and learning, with all their blessings, are secured 
without cost, and liberality becomes a profitable speculation 
stamped with a divine benediction. Most of the various 
branches of business of the country are represented here. 



182 turner's guide to the rocky mountains. 

The old county seat of Carrollton is about ten miles south- 
east of Carroll. It has a good farming country around it, 
but is not probably destined to reach a large growth. 

CooN Kapids is a small town eighteen miles south-east 
from Carroll. It contains a good flouring mill and a sawmill. 

Carroll county, in 1867, contained but six hundred and 
eighty-eight people. The tide of immigration pouring in has 
probably doubled the number in the past year. It contains 
over three himdred and sixty-eight thousand acres of splendid 
land, well watered, and adapted, in every particular, to suc- 
cessful and profitable cultivation. For grain culture or rear- 
mg: stock it is one of the best counties on the line of the rail- 
road, or indeed in the state. There is only one objection to 
the locality. It cannot be denied that timber is scarce, there 
l>eing but about ten thousand acres in the county. Groves of 
forest trees are being planted which thrive exceedingly well. 
Each settler very properly conceives it to be his first duty to 
protect his prairie residence from the driving storms of winter 
by a wind-break of timber, and this process is fast diversify- 
ing the face of the country with beautiful and valuable groves. 
Lands can now be bought very cheap in Carroll county, but 
it is easy to foretell that this golden opportunity will not last 
long. Muscle and money, both of which are setting in this 
direction, will soon place this among the most desirable 
and wealthiest portions of Iowa. J. E. Griiflth, Esq., real 
estate agent and attorney at law ; Elwood & Deal, real 
estate agents, or Gilley & Wilkinson, bankers and land agents, 
whose cards appear elsew^here, will at any time give full and 
satisfactory information in relation to all matters of interest 
connected with the county. Charles Bofink has for sale, at 
wholesale or retail, all kinds of bnildinii: or fencinfi^ lumber. 



FROM CHICAGO TO THE MISSOURI. 183 

All the necessaries, conveniences, and most of the luxuries of 
life are procurable at Carroll city. 

From Carroll up — up, the rolling prairie, covered with 
luxuriant and waving verdure, six miles to East Side station, 
thence onward to Tip Top, the summit level between the two 
great rivers. The view is grand — magnificent ; rolling, swell- 
ing in gentle undulations, the face of the country looks as 
though it had just been crystallized from the surges of " old 
ocean." N^ow down the Missouri slope ! The change is 
magical. The streams have changed their direction, and each 
rip2)le seems to be an echo of "Westward, ho !" Descending, 
we pass West Side, get a glimpse of the East Boyer, leave Yail 
behind, and reach Denisox, the beautiful seat of justice of 
Crawford county, sitting queenlike on an eminence between 
the East and Main Boyer, near their junction, four hundred and 
twenty-three miles from Chicago. Denison overlooks a delight- 
ful valley, through whose leafy groves the Boyer meanders for 
miles and miles away. The long trains of cars go "march- 
ing on," under a receding cloud of smoke by day and radiant 
with fiery coruscations by night, animating the scene, and 
making prophecy of the "good time coming," when the hills, 
and dales, and valleys shall be covered by an industrious and 
happy yeomanry, and plenty will fill the garner, while peace 
possesses the soul of the recipient of ten thousand bounties ! 
The town is chiefly settled by immigrants from glorious Kew 
England, which has sent out her millions of social and in- 
dustrious missionaries, flanked on the one side by the pulpit, 
and (in the other by the school-house. That temple of the 
cliivalry, the saloon with its poisoned shrine, is not here. 

The population of Denison is not large. It is a new town, 
and numbers not much over three hundred people. Towns 



1.S4 turn>]r's guide to the rocky mountains. 

must have a beginning. New York once liad less inliabitants 
than Denison connts to-day. Early Dutch governors, with 
their quaintly clad but well deported families, in olden times, 
picked blackberries in Wall street, or gathered hazel-nuts in 
Broadway ! Many a dreamy urchin of Manhattan has sought 
his truant cows wdiere now winds the busy mart of Pearl street, 
and has played l^all in the vacant spaces ai'ound the church- 
yard of Triiuty. Ihixom damsels, from the household <jf 
Werter Van T wilier, have tripped gaily in moonlight prom- 
enade through the winding paths of Maiden Lane, and even 
tlie courtly Stuyvesants gave substantial and merry dinners 
to the el'itt^ in sunmier time, at theii* country liouse below the 
''Union Scpiare" of to-day. The pleasant resorts of Flora 
McFlimsy, in Madison Scpuire, were once in the deep forests 
of New Amsterdam, and tlie shoddydom of Fifth avenue was 
at best but a cornfield or a cabbage patcli. So we come back 
to the proposition — towns must have a beginning. 

The business of the place is represented by three dry goods 
and grocery stores, one hardware store, one furniture store, 
one drug store, two saddle and harness sho23S, two boot and 
shoe shops, two hotels, one blacksmith shop, one wagon shop, 
one saw mill and one flouring mill. One })hysician and two 
lawyers, all highly ornamental l)ut not extremely useful, grace 
the town. Artisans aiul workers of all kinds are needed and 
will be wannly greeted. There is considerable water power 
yet unimproved. Here the railroad makes an elbow and 
runs south-westerly to the Missouri Yalley, and to Council 
Bluffs, sixty-seven miles away. A large breadth of territory 
can easily be made tributary to this locality. The fecund 
prairie awaits the plow, from whose fui-rows shall spring 
plenty. The pleasant groves invite settlers to joyous homes, 



FKOM CHICAGO TO THE MISSOURI. 185 

and all together give promise of the coveted advantages of a 
highlv civilized condition. Several railroad connections are 
anticipated here. 

The futnre of Denison is regarded with much interest by 
shrewd business men and persons seeking homes and fortunes. 
Stranirers desirinac to satisfy themselves in relation to it, will 
receive the most gentlemanly attention from the founder of 
the town, Mr. J. W. Denison, on the spot, or by applying to 
Morris McIIenry et Co., dealers in real estate there. 

Crawford county is threaded with rivers and branches with 
their rich valleys. The Boyer runs south-westerly through 
the county, diagonally ; East Boyer flows into the main stream 
a short distance Irom Denison. The eastern sections are 
watered by the Otter, the Paradise and the l^ishnabotany, 
while the Middle and East Soldier meander in the western 
part of the county. Along all of these streams are found fine 
farming lands, interspersed with timber aggregating about 
eight thousand acres. Some of the uplands are rough, but 
much the largest portion of the county is susceptible of easy 
cultivation, and is very healthy. The Chicago t% l^orth-Wes- 
tern Railway, the great artery of central Iowa, enters the 
county at a point nearl}^ due west from Chicago, and at the 
center turns sharply to the left and winds down the valley of 
the Boyer on its way to the Missouri and the Eocky moun- 
tains. 

The population of this county is not far from two thousand, 
a circumstance, perhaps, favorable to those who are in 
})ursuit of cheap lands that are sure immediately to rise in 
value. Immigration is flowing in quite rapidly. There are 
some fifteen organized school districts and as many school- 
houses, with a disposition to build more as they are needed. 
24 



186 turner's guide to the rocky mountains. 

Besides Denison, there are three raih-oad stations, viz : West 
8ide, Yail and Crawford, all of which promise to become 
towns of some importance at no very distant day. There are 
also several other young towns in the county of more or less 
pretention. These are Deloit, seven miles above Denison, 
with two flouring and two saw mills, two stores, several me- 
chanics' shops and a brick school-house; Swedeboy, four 
miles above Deloit, with a steady and industrious class of citi- 
zens wdio are already arranging for a meeting and a school-house ; 
Bakertown, six miles from the county seat, and Chartei* Oak, 
sixteen miles west of Denison, where the American Emigrant 
Company have commenced a very j)romising settlement, and 
have some fifteen thousand acres of first class farmino: lands 
i'or building up the town. These lands are selling for from 
three to ^ve dollars per acre, on long time to actual settlers, 
thus giving persons of very moderate means opjxjrtunities to 
secure homes. This town is located on the west bank of East 
Soldier river, and on the direct road from Denison to Onawa, 
and is about equi-distant from Dunlap on the Boyer and Ma- 
pleton on the Maple. 

Crawford is ten miles from Denison, and eight miles 
further on is the new town of Dunlap, in Harrison county. 
It is only about one year since this town was commenced, and 
it has now a population verging on one thousand and its 
growth is unabated. The railroad company have erected here 
a fine round-house and other necessary structures, including a 
commodious and well arranged dining-house and hotel where 
sumptuous fare is served by Mr. Alex. Crow, the proprietor. 

Dunlap is beautifully located in the famed valley of the 
Boyer, the fertility and picturesqueness of which are beyond 
description. It is flanked on one hand by bluff-like eminences. 



FROM CHICAGO TO THE MISSOURI. 187 

a]icl the rich prairie on the other stretches away as far as the 
eye can reach. Here is, unquestionably, to be an important 
seat of trade, and it is ah*eady known to be a desirable place 
for residence. The town is very healthy. There is only one 
doctor and he has grown weazen faced and- terribly attenuated 
from absolute starvation. It is a peaceable place, no lawyer 
having, so far, poked his ugly visage into its quiet precincts. 
It is a moral place. Only two churches have been organized, 
the Congregational and the Methodist. There is a good dis- 
trict school. Most branches of business are rejDresented here. 
Building is progressing and new inhabitants are constant!}^ 
coming in. The population consists mostly of eastern people, 
many of Avhom are from the ancient commonwealth of 'Con- 
necticut. Dunlap has fine prospects. The real estate busi- 
ness is ably conducted here by J. L. Koberts, Esq., who has 
farms and village property for sale. 

Ten miles south-westerly from Dunlap, Woodbine graces 
the rolling prairie. It is a place of some four hundred people 
and does a thriving business. The surrounding country is 
excellent and large quantities of grain and other produce find 
a market here. It has a rural appearance, and is very sightly 
and healthy. The soil in the neighborhood is very superior, 
and, as prices of land are low, settlers are coming in rapidly. 
Town and country increase in about the same ratio, and 
either are (piite desirable for a place of residence. The grain 
trade here is large. B. C. Adams & Co. and W. A. Jones 
deal extensively in farming implements and machinery, and 
purchase produce of all kinds. It is a good market town and 
the stores are well filled mth merchandise. At the " Wood- 
bine Hotel," kept by G. W. Pugsley, the traveler will find 
himself pleasantly entertained. 



188 turner's guide to the rocky mountains. 

Down the Boyer valley, ten miles from Woodbine, is located 
the growing town of Lo(^an, which is beautifully situated on 
the second bottom about forty rods from the Boyer river, and 
six miles south of Magnolia, the county seat. It was laid out 
in June, 186Y, and has now about two hundred people. There 
are three dry goods and one drug stores, two hotels and a 
blacksmith shop, a flouring and saw mill. There is a good 
limestone quarry at this point, in and along the river. The 
mills are built, on rock and the dam is of stone. There is a 
large sjDring at this point. T. M. C. Logan deals in agricul- 
tural implements, lumber and grain ; Kelley Bros, keep a 
fine drug store; Brady & McCurley deal largely in grain, 
and William Orr is a cattle broker and turns his attention to 
blooded stock of all descriptions. A daily hack runs from 
Logan to Magnolia, the county seat, six miles nortli. 

Magnolia was located as the seat of justice for Harrison 
county in March, 1853, and is on a high, rolling prairie, near 
the center of the county, six miles from the Chicago & I^orth- 
Western and ten miles from the Sioux City & Pacific Rail- 
road. It has now about five hundred inhabitants, and does a 
large trade. It contains three dry goods and grocery stores, 
two drug and book stores, two stoA^e and tinware stores, 
two boot and shoe stores, is well supplied with mechanics, 
has two lawyers, three doctors, a newspaper and printing 
office, four land ascents and a o'ood hotel. There are five church 
organizations and four meeting-houses. 

The present court-house is a two story frame, thirty by forty- 
feet. Court room on second floor, neatly finished. County 
officers on the first flo(>r. It was erected in 1855. 

There is a neat one story frame school-house, thirty-six by 
foi'ty-six feet, nicely finished and conveniently seated with 



FROM CHICAGO TO THE MTSSOTTRT. 189 

the most improved seats and desks, for one hundred scholars. 
The citizens employ the best of teachers. A Miss Hillis, a 
graduate of Grinnell College, has recently opened a select 
school for both sexes. 

Raymond's Hotel is a good place for the stranger to refresh 
himself, and the hack line of Geo. R. Brainard makes daily 
and close connection with the cars at Logan. 

Harrison county is in the fourth tier of counties north from 
the south line of Iowa, is bounded on the west by the Missouri 
river, on the north by Monona county, on the east by Craw- 
ford, and on tlie south by Pottawattamie county, and w^as 
organized in 1853. 

The soil on the uplands is of a black porous nature, and is 
the same for tlie depth of sixty feet, or to water below the 
surface. It is said that dirt taken out of wells sixty feet deep 
seems, to produce as well as that on the surface. The total 
number of acres is estimated at 487,120, of which betw^een 
80,000 and 100,000 is timber ; 115,373 acres bottom lands, of 
which 36,343 acres overflow. The uplands are broken or 
rolling, but all, or nearly all susceptible of the highest state 
of cultivation. Improved lands are w^orth from $15 to $30 
])er acre ; unimproved bottom lands, from $10 to $20 ; up- 
lands, prairie, first class, from $5 to $10 ; second class, from 
$4 to $7 ; third class, broken, from $2 to $5 ; timber, hard 
wood in the hills, $20 ; cottonw^ood, from $30 to $50 per acre. 

There are numerous fine springs of pure water in various 
portions of the county, and the most beautiful pebbly l)rooks 
flow from them of the clearest and best of water. 

There are five flouring mills, four of which i-un by water. 
They manutacture about 150,000 bushels of grain annually, 
into flour and meal. There are also thirteen steam and two 



190 turner's guide to the rocky mountains. 

water saw mills, whicli cut about twenty-five million feet of 
lumber yearly. 

There is more timber in Harrison county than in any other 
county on the slope. There is a good deal of hard wood 
timber in the bluffs. There must be near 100,000 acres 'of 
timber in the county. There are thi'ee ledges of limestone 
in the county. One quarry is near the village of Logan. 
The mill-dam across the Boyer is built out of this stone. 
Orchards are being set out iu abundance. Apples, pears, 
(piinces and grapes grow large and nice. Some peaches have 
been raised. In the bottom lands the finest quality of wild 
grajjes are found in great abundance. 

Ten miles from Logan is the new town of Missouri Val- 
ley, a place of some trade, but at present chiefly important 
from the fact that here is the junction of the Sioux City & 
Pacific road with the Chicago ife North-WesteriL The town 
'is situated at a point where the Boyer valley is merged with 
the Missouri bottom, and hence has a c«umtry contiguous of 
extraordinary worth. It is not too mucli to pi*edict a prosper- 
ous future for this place. Western enterprise is at work, and 
will soon be followed by its usual happy results. The firm of 
McBride & Birchard, wholesale and retail druggists, is among 
the most reliable. These gentlemen have a branch store at 
-New Jefferson. P. D. Mickel, Esq., is a lawyer, and is 
entirely conversant with the landed interest of the town and 
county. Missouri Valley is frequenth^ confounded with St. 
Johns. The latter town is on the Boyer, two miles east of 
the junction. 

An account of the Sioux City & Pacific Railroad, with its 
peculiarities, towns and the country through which it runs, is 
ii-iven at souie leiiii:th, elsewhere in this work. 



FKr>M CHICAGO TO THE MISSOURI. 191 

Winding down the vallej of the Missouri and along in the 
sliadow of higli bhiffs, in a direction nearly south, for twenty 
niiles, the widely and favorably known city of Council 
Bluffs is reached. It is some three or four miles from the 
river and nestles quietly and romantically at the base of, and 
among the hills which give name to the place. The Council 
Bluffs are so called from the tact that, according to Indian 
tradition, for many ages these hills formed a neutral ground 
M'here w^arlike tribes met for council and to form treaties 
(►tfensive and defensive. The exact spot where these meetings 
were held is not now deiinitely kiiuwn, though Mr. Sarpil, an 
Indian trader, well acquainted with the language and convers- 
ant with aboriginal traditions, is of the opinion that the hills 
in the neighborhood of the city of Council Bluffs mark the 

localitv. 

«/ 

The history of the city of Council Bluffs is chequered by 
extraordinary vicissitudes. It was first settled by the tugitive 
Mormons who had then recently been driven from Nauvoo, 
Illinois, and was known as Kanesville. A post ofiice by this 
name was instituted, and Ivanes^dlle became a noted fron- 
tier town. Here 2:atliered the whole Mormon tribe, includini!: 
dupes, scoundrels and incarnate devils. Joseph Smith, the 
head impostor, had been assassinated, l^auvoo evacuated, and 
the peregrinating saints here gathered for the purpose of 
niakino; a final fiis^ht to the fastnesses of the Rockv mountains. 
They came not by hundreds but by thousands. Ignorant, de- 
based, filthy, disgusting, they gathered in herds, like cattle, 
or sought refuge, warmth and animal comfort in holes and 
caves, excavated in the earth. Covered with vermin, rotten 
with disease, and loathsome in every respect, here they rather 
hybernated than lived until the seething mass of living putrid- 



102 turner's guide to the rocky mountains. 

ity in May, 1848, struck out for tlieir final home in the Salt 
Lake Valley. The Mormons made some improvements, 
though none which have not already been wiped out. In 
1853, the new town of Council Bluffs was surveyed and laid 
(►ut. and Kanesville and the Mormons were remitted to obliv- 
ion and Salt Lake City. When the gold discoveries of Cali- 
fornia burst upoii the world, and extraordinary innnigration 
commenced to flow westward, across the plains, Council 
Bluffs was in the direct road, and soon became the favorite 
outfitting and starting point. Tims trade, thi-ift and specula- 
tion were very snddenly inaugurated, and prominence was 
easily attained. It was the outpost of civilized life. All be- 
yond to the Golden Gate was a dreary waste of plain or an 
almost insurmountable barrier of mountains. The inunigrant 
and the adventiu-ei- rested a day or two at Council Bluffs and 
then, excited and fevered, crossed the Missouri and plunged 
into the nnknown beyond, to encounter hardships, dangers or 
death in the pursuit of sudden wealth. To-day thousands 
threaded the busy streets of the frontier town ; to-morrow soli- 
tude awaited the sound of incoming footsteps. 

Council Bluffs is favorably located, not only in a business 
view, but as a converging point for numerous railroads seek- 
ing connection ^dth the great pioneer line to the Pacific. The 
Union Pacific Railroad starts from the eastern bank of the 
Missouri, which is the westerii boundary of the city as it is 
laid out. Hither have already been completed the Chicago & 
North-Western and the Council Blufis & St. eloseph roads, 
the former connecting with Chicago, and the latter with St. 
Louis. The Sioux City & Pacific road, by its connection with 
the North-Western, at Missouri Yalley, also tends to the same 
point and gives a close connection with the great packet line 



FROM CHICAGO TO THE MISSOURI. 193 

OH the Upper Missonri, from Sioux City. The Burlington & 
Missouri River road will soon be completed, and will by its 
connections form another grand trunk line to Chicago. The 
Chicaao, Eock Island & Pacific road is nearly constructed to 
Council Bluffs, and will, before many months, constitute still 
another i^reat thorouo:hfare from Lake Michio-aii to the Mis- 
souri. The American Central, to be composed chiefly of 
eastern roads already built and some contemplated new ones, 
will, ere long, form a direct through connection with the sea- 
board. In addition to those alread}' mentioned, other roads 
and routes are spoken of as likely to be opened before the 
lapse of many years. In view of this concentration of rail- 
road interests at this point, preparations have already been 
commenced for transfer grounds and depots which, when com- 
pleted, will be far superior to any now known in the country, 
or in the world. It is expected that here much of the western 
bound commerce and travel across the continent will concen- 
trate, and that here, also, the trade of the Indies and of the 
Pacific coast will be largely distributed. If these anticij)ations 
are realized, the future of the city is destined to be extremely 
l)ri]liant. 

Council Bluffs is very pleasantly located, is handsomely 
laid out and has '' ample room and verge enough " for the 
settlement of many thousands of people. The present popu- 
lation is the subject of various estimates, but is not definitely 
known ; it is probably, however, over seven thousand. The 
settled portion of the city is built near and under shelter (^f 
llic blufi's. It has inan}^ very imposing business blocks and 
private residences. There are several fine churches and a 
court-house of large dimensions, and which is substantially 

built and artistically arranged and decorated. Tlie legitimate 
25 



194 turner's guide to the rocky mountains. 

business interests are in a tlonrisliing condition. Quite a 
large M'liolesale trade centers liere. The want of nianufac- 
turinff establisliments is already felt and has been to some 
extent supplied, though a fine field is still open for capital and 
enterprise, in this branch of industry. There is one national 
bank and two private banking houses. The schools afford 
abundant facilities for the education of children and youths 
and are well conducted. The country on the north, east and 
west is noted for its excellence, and immigration is fiowiug in 
with great rapidity. As a whole. Council Bluffs presents 
many attractions which cannot fail to arrest the attentifMi of 
those seeking permanent and pleasant homes in the west. 

Pottawattamie county, of which Council Bluffs is the capi- 
tal, contains nine jmndred and sixty srpiare miles, or over six 
liiindred and fourteen thousand acres of land. In point of 
territorial limits it exceeds any other county in the state. Its 
superior business advantages are fully equaled by its agricul- 
tural capabilities. For the most part, the soil is unsurpassed 
in fertility. In addition to the numerous fine springs and 
rivulets the county is watered by the Boyer, Willow, Big 
Pigeon, and the East and West Nishnabotany rivers, and 
Mosquito, Keg, Silver and otlier creeks. Some of these 
streams afford valuable water power, and their rich and pic- 
turesque valleys invite settlers to cheap, healthy and fruitful 
homes. Perhaps no portion of the state is more desirable. 
.The following census returns for the years indicated show the 
variety of fortunes through which this county has passed : 

1849 pop. 6,552 1854 pop. e^,060 1863 pop. 4,737 

1850 " 7,828 1856 '' 3,498 1865 '' 5,388 

1851 " 5,758 1859 '' 5,012 1S67 " 8,733 

1852 '' 5,057 I860 '' 4,968 



FROM CHICAGO TO THE MISSOURI. 195 

In point of population, Pottawattamie county has stood in 
reference to tlie other counties in the state, at the periods 

mentioned, as follows : In 

1849 it was Sth 1854 it was 33d 1860 it was 4Tth 

1850 " 8th 1856 '^ 44th 1863 " 4Tth 

1851 " 16th 1859 " 43d 1865 " 50th 

1852 " 21st 

and in 1867 it was the 43d. 

The foregoing figures, and the facts which they disclose, are 
not, by any means, to be taken to the detriment of the county 
to which they refei'. The Mormon ingress and departure 
account for much of the inequalities of population ; besides, 
it must be remembered that Council BlutFs has for manv 
years been the resting place of that ebbing and flowing tide 
which has kept the plains so lull of outgoing and incoming 
adventurers. The ti'utli is — and it may as well be stated — 
that the advantages of Pottawattamie county, Iowa, have not, 
heretofore, been appreciated. The sparse population indi- 
cates that the ad\antages of the situation have not been fully 
understood by those seeking homes and fortunes in the west. 

Any one may see that lands hei'e, in proportion to their 
true value, are unaccountably neglected. A few years will 
disclose the fact that the county is a very desirable locality, 
and its fifty thousand inhabitants will prove this prophesy 
coi-rect. Ill relation to other portions of Iowa, bargains are 
here to l)e met with of extraordinary value to incomers. Pott- 
awattamie county, unshorn of its present dimensions, must 
soon be the most important of Iowa's fruitful sections. 

Cass county is immediately east, and when the railroads, 
now in course of construction, are completed, will find a sure 
and never-failiim- market at (council Blufis. All that has or 



196 turner's guide to the rocky mountains. 

can be said commendatory of Pottawattamie is true of Cass. 
The remarks in relation to tlie celebrated Nishnabotany val- 
leys apply with fnll force to those productive lands which 
stretch across, in a diagonal direction, the county of Cass. 
In fact, for an hundred miles in all directions, except to the 
west, a splendid but partially developed country, is ready tu 
become tributary to Council Blufl's, which is really the start- 
ing point to the gold bearing mountains and the great Pacific 
slope. It may here be profitably remarked that j^osition does 
not make cities, and that those who quietly await a special 
interposition of providence to make them rich are usually 
disappointed. At Council Bluffs the inquirer may gain much 
useful information of J. M. Palmer, Bloomer & Edmonson, 
and N. P. Dodge. Dr. 8. M. Ballard, an old resident of 
Iowa, is capable of giving good counsel, he having surveyed 
the greater portion of Western Iowa, and of consequence, 
being acquainted with almost every section of land there. 
These o^entlemen can all be found at Council Bluffs. 



VII. 

FROM THE MISSOUEI RIYER 
TO THE MOUNTAINS. 



Tlie Missouri is one of the luugest, in some respects the 
most valuiible, and in other regards the most worthless, ul' 
American rivers. It is navigable from its continence with 
the Mississippi, near St. Louis, northward, over three thou- 
sand miles, to Fort Benton. It is distinguished for its tortu- 
ous windino-s, its shiftins: channels and its treacherous sands. 
Its current is generally rapid and deep, with frequent and 
dauii-erous shoals. The water at all stashes is freio-hted with 
mountain soils and dissoh'ed alluvion to such an extent as to 
give it a constantly turbid appearance. Hence, the popular 
nanie of '' Old Muddy," generally applied to it by frontier 
2)eople and river men ; and the Indian name which signifies 
" Mud River." Navigation usually commences on the Mis- 
souri in April and continues until December. The mountain 
rise or freshet, occasioned by the melting of snow near tlie 
head waters, occurs in June or July. At this time the banks 
are full, the current rapid, and large areas of low bottoms are 
overflowed. Navigation at such times is almost entirely ex- 
perimental and attended with great risk. The channel of 
to-day may be a sand-bar to-niorrow, and the skill of the most 



198 turner's guide to the rocky mountains. 

experienced pilot is merged in nncertainty and conjecture. 
As the season advances the water subsides, until only boats 
of very light draft can pick their way through the shoals and 
follow the thread-like channels. With the fiill rains conies a 
larger river, when navigation is easy, safe and profitable. 

At its mc^uth the Missouri is over half a mile wide, and in 
many places it is much wider. The area which this river 
drains is estimated at 519,400 square miles. About four 
hundred miles from its S()Uj*ce it passes through a narrow 
gorge denominated the "Gates oK tlio Rocky Mountains/' 
These " gates '' are nearly six miles in length, and the per- 
pendicular walls of rock, which rise directly from the water to 
the extraordinary liight of tweh'e hundred feet, are only ioiii- 
hundred and fifty feet apai-t. For tliree miles oidy one spot 
is presented where a fuothokl can be obtained between the 
rocks and the water. The o-i-eat falls are about one hundred 
and forty-five miles below the "gates." They are the grandest 
on the North American continent, except Niagara, and consist 
of four cataracts, respectively of nineteen, twenty -six, Ibrty- 
seven, and eighty-seven feet pei"[»endicular descent, sepai-ated 
by rapids. The whole fall, in a little o\er sixteen miles, is 
three hundred and fifty-seven feet. 

The Missouri loses its name at its confluence with the 
Mississippi. This, howevei', is an arbitrary and unjnst appli- 
cation of geographical nomenclature. Where the two rivers 
meet the Missouri is much the lai'gest, and, by right of })re- 
eininence, is entitled to the nanie. The vantage-ground 
caiTied by usurpation is seldom reclaimed, and henceforward 
the Missouri, for all time, must flow tn the Gulf as a tributary 
of her nn'nor sister, the Mississippi. 

From lt>wa, the river is now crossed by feri'y boats. The 



FROM THE MISSOURI RIVER TO THE MOUNTAINS. 199 

accommodation is ample and little delay is occasioned. A 
great bridge is to be l)uilt. The contract lor this is already 
let by the Union Pacific Kailroad. When completed, the 
structure will be, by all means, the most perfect, the most 
substantial, and probably the most expensive of any bride^e 
in America. The shifting sands of the river render it vain to 
predicate to-day where the channel will be to-morrow. Hence, 
it is useless to build a draw for the accommodation of ship- 
ping. A high bridge is, therefore, to be constructed, with a 
sutHcient elevation to permit the largest steamers to pass, even 
at the highest stages of the water. The utmost attention has 
l)een paid to this gigantic work, and engineering skill of the 
highest order has been evoked. The (piestions of importance 
to be solved w^ere railroad utility, safety, permanency, and 
non-ol^struction to the navigation of the river. Tlie conclu- 
sions arrived at have been crystallized into the following plan : 
The approach from the east side is seventeen hundred feet, by 
means of trestle work, from one foot to fifty feet in bight. From 
the west side the approach is about eight hundred feet. The 
main bridge is to be composed of ten spans of two hundred 
and fifty feet each, or twenty-five hundred feet in all. The 
elevation above high water is sixty feet. Each span is to l)e 
supported at either end by pneumatic spiles of iron, eight feet 
six inches in diameter, in sections half an inch thick. The 
spiles are to go down to and rest on the bed rock, and vary in 
U'ngth from sixteen to seventy feet. The eastern end is to 
i-eacli lar up the bottom of the Missouri towards Council 
Hlnfis, where the transfer grounds are to be situated, and where 
trains will be made up for the Pacific coast, and where distri- 
Initions will be made of the great occidental trade for the 
Atlantic cities and Europe. The western terminus of the 



200 turner's guide to the rockv mountains. 

hridge will be on a beautiful plateau of* land, in Onialia, called 
'' Train's Table/' On this table a niagniiicent depot is to be 
erected, surpassing in extent and convenience anything of the 
kind hitherto undertaken. Here, upon the banks of the 
Missouri, which but a few years ago were supposed to be tlie 
eastern boundary of an almost impassable desert country, the 
wealth of the Indies will meet the flowing riches of the Orient, 
and the commerce of the uttermost parts of the earth will tind 
exchange. Welded into one, the cities of Omaha and Coun- 
cil Bbitt's will become a mart of traffic such as the world has 
seldom seen. What a change from the time when the Indian 
warwhoop awakened the slumbering echoes of these valleys 
and plains ! 

The Missouri ri\ er is likely to l)ecome the base of o})era- 
tions of the several railroads which w^ill e\'entually cross the 
continent, and somewhere in or near its valley, the njitional 
capital will undoubtedly l)e finally established. The political 
center of the land is fast tending in this direction, and sooner 
or later, the West will demand that recognition to which her 
political and material potency will justly entitle her. That 
little malarious patch of ground on the Potomac, to which 
patriots and politicians are annually banished, will be allowed 
to revert to its original solitude, and a live city in the great 
West will be built which, while it dues honor to the name of 
Columbus or Washington, shall, like Rome, be the seat of 
Empire for the World! Out from this throbbing heart shall 
run a thousand arteries of ti-ade, and hither shall converge 
those sensitive political nerves which ramify every part and 
parcel of the most free and highly developed country in the 
world. 

Transfer of passengers from the east to the west side of 



FROM THE MISSOUET KIVER TO THE MOUNTAINS. 201 

tl»e Missouri is now made by means of omnibuses. The 
delay is not great, but the annoyance is sometimes consider- 
able. Once across, with his feet planted upon the soil of Ne- 
braska, the traveler begins to realize that, if not in, he at 
least approaches the great West. The two great rivers of 
l^orth America are between him and the lakes. New York 
is more than thirteen and Chicago five hundred miles behind ; 
in front stretch the forestless plains to where, ^ve hundred 
miles away, rise the Kocky mountains in massive grandem-. 
Westward, e\'idences of civilized life are imj)erfect and inter- 
mittent to where the golden sands of California are washed 
by the placid waters of the Pacific. 

Nebraska is a new state, her advent into the Union dating 
no further back than 1866 ; yet the virgin soil within her 
wide borders, the mineral wealth which underlies a good por- 
tion of her surface, her central position and natural advan- 
tages for trade and manufactures, most persuasively invite 
immigrants to prosperous settlement and independent homes. 
The state has a frontage on the Missouri of more than three 
hundred miles, and is thus connected with the great system 
of navigable rivers flowing into the Gulf of Mexico. Her 
inland and non-navigable streams are numerous, including the 
Platte, the Elkhorn, the Loupe, and many others, which drain 
and water the state, and add to her other agricultural resources 
their extensive and fertile bottoms. The settled portions 
of the state have already demonstrated that, in point of gen- 
eral productiveness, Nebraska is entitled to a high rank among 
her sisters, and that, ere long, a large population will draw 
support frum her broad acres. It is true that much of the 
western half of the state may require artificial irrigation to 

some extent, but the water can be easily obtained, and the 

26 



202 turner's guide to tjie rocky mountains. 

expense will be light. Ko part is deficient in those rich 
grasses, which retain much of their verdure and all their 
juices through the inclement seasons of the year, and give to 
the prairie and plain the appearance of immense law^ns or 
parks. These grasses are highly prized by the experienced 
graziers, and must ever be a source of wealth to the state. 
Excellent Indian corn is raised with little cultivation, and 
wheat of a very superior quality grows luxuriantly. Indeed, 
this latter cereal has already taken a position in the market, 
unsurpassed if not unequaled by the wheat of any other 
state in the west. Timber is scarce, away from the river 
and creek bottoms ; it is, however, easily cultivated, and the 
increasing facilities for transportation will soon aiford abund- 
ant supplies from abroad at reasonable expense. The under- 
lying beds of coal, when developed, will furnish cheap fuel 
at accessible points for all domestic and manufacturing pur- 
poses, and for an indefinite period. The climate of the state 
is healthy, and in many parts of the year quite delighttul. 
Malarious diseases are little known, and ailments of the lungs, 
so fatal in many other places, are infrequent here. Millions 
of acres of good lands, in desirable locations, can still be 
entered at government prices, and comfortable homesteads be 
secured for almost nothing. The political institutions of 
JS^ebraska are fully equal, and in many respects superior, to 
those of any of the older states. Much interest is taken in 
the cause of popular instruction, and an excellent system of 
common schools will \erj soon secure to all the benefits of a 
good education. In 18f)(> the total population was 28,841, 
since which time no enumeration has been taken. For the 
last four or five years the infiux of immigration has been very 
great. It is safe to say that, within the past year, half a mil- 



FROM THE MISSOURI RIVER TO THE MOUNTAINS. 203 

lion acres of virgin soil have been broken by the plows of the 
settlers. These incoming sons of toil — these creators of 
wealth — even now, and soon to a much greater extent, will 
require all the necessaries and even luxuries known to civil- 
ized man. That thrift which ever follows labor, directed by 
intelligence, will insure that independence which forms the 
basis of cultivated communities. Hence, towns and cities 
will spring up recpiiring all kinds of mechanical skill and 
industry, and creating marts for trade and traffic which will 
concentrate capital and facilitate exchanges. Thus, oppor- 
tunities will be offered to all manner of enterprise, and a 
thousand avenues to usefulness and fortune will be opened. 
This neophyte state will be resonant with the hum of human 
industry, in all its modifications and departments, while peace, 
prosperity and plenty shall reign supreme. 

The United States Land offices are at Brownsville, Ne- 
braska City, Omaha and Dakota. 

The following are the state officers of N'ebraska : 
Governor, - - - David Butler. 
Secretary of State, - Thomas P. Kennard. 
Auditor of State, - - John Grillespie. 
Treasurer, - - - Augustus Kountze. 
Attorney for the State, - Champion S. Chase. 
That this new state has just entered upon a bright and 
glorious future there can be no doubt. N'ow the geographi- 
cal, she will soon be the political center of the republic ; rich 
in resources, and almost ecpii-distant from the two great 
oceans, she must, by force of inevitable laws, become the cen- 
ter of important commercial interests, with a naturally rich 
and entirely unexhausted soil, the gentle urgings of free labor 
will gather from her fecund bosom nourishment for the in- 



204: turner's guide to the rocky mountains. 

coming millions, while skilled labor will fashion wonderful 
productions in a thousand ways, for innumerable uses. 

Omaha is the chief citv of Nebraska. It is the capital of 
Douglas county, the very name of which is suggestive of the 
great statesman, whose genius brought the territory, and 
finally the state into political being. ISTo locality can present 
a more beautiful site for a town or large city. The front upon 
the Missouri is extensive, and back, the land is high, rolling, 
and very beautiful. The old state-house, situated c»n the 
lieight of ground, is a notable landmark, and can be seen for 
miles away. The streets are wide, airy, and with a gentle 
declivity towards the river, aiford excellent means of drain- 
age. The soil is not of the best, in its natural state, but it 
aifords a fine foundation for the usual and indispensable im- 
provements of a city. The main portion of the town is on a 
commanding hight, fully forty feet above the Missouri. The 
water obtained from wells is of excellent quality, it not only 
being pleasant to the taste, but quite healthy. 

The population of Omaha is variously estimated. By some 
it is put as low as twelve thousand, wdiile others, quite as well 
informed but more sanguine, declare eighteen thousand to be 
the inside limit. The happy mean might perhaps present the 
true figures. The city is truly metropolitan in appearance 
and, with an impudence peculiar to the West, the people al- 
ready claim for their town the position and the name of the 
" young Chicago." Business is not concentrated upon one 
nor a few central streets, but occupies many, reaching in some 
directions to the suburbs and following the thoroughfares to 
the utmost limits. In the more central portions large blocks 
have been erected for the accommodation of trade which, in 



FROM THE MISSOURI RIVER TO THE MOUNTAINS. 205 

internal arrangement and architectural apjDearance, would grace 
any city in the land. The trade is by no means confined to 
the limited wants of the city and immediate country, hut 
roaches out across the plains and into the treasure-hearing 
mountains. The main portion of its traffic is done at whole- 
sale. Stores and warehouses are crowded with immense 
stocks of all varieties of merchandise, where inland dealers 
can l)e supplied at a great saving of time, expense and risk 
over eastern markets. But enterprise has not exhausted itself 
in mercantile pursuits. The manufacturing interests have a 
growth and development truly astonishing for so young a 
place. In fact, nearly all bi'anches of industry commonly 
prosecuted in American cities have here their representatives, 
and, although limited and insufficient, they are prosperous 
and productive. The legal and prospective terminus of the 
Union Pacific Railroad, it is true, is on the east bank of the 
Missouri, but practically, so far, it has been and for some 
time to come must be at Omaha. This, together with the 
work shops of the great corporation established there, has 
given a very extraordinary stimulus to the city. In some re- 
spects business may have been overdone, and excessive prices 
may have been asked and paid for unproductive property, but 
the general effect has been salutary and trade, industry and 
prices have recently settled down to legitimate channels and 
determinate standards. The demands of industry and enter- 
prise have been answered by a remarkable influx of capital, 
so that it is doubtful if any place of its size in the West, sur- 
2)asses Omaha in that material aid so essential to prosperous 
development. There are thr^^ National and several private 
banks here. Tlie amount of deposits in two of the National 



206 turner's guide to the rocky mountains. 

banks, as shown by recent reports, is extraordinary. In April 
last these deposits were as follows : 

First N"ational Bank, - - - $1,719,974 45 
Omaha National Bank, - - - 897,144 46 

The third National institntion has recently been established. 
Messrs. Caldwell, Hamilton & Co., one of the oldest banking- 
houses in the state, do a heavy business and stand high in 
linancial circles. The figures which we have given from otH- 
cial sources seem to indicate that the progress of Omaha is not 
of an ephemeral sort, but that it rests on a substantial basis, 
which nothing at present seen can shake or imd ermine. 

Omaha has recently become the headquarters and base of 
supplies for the department of the Platte. Large and expen- 
sive barracks and buildings are now in course of coustruction 
for the accommodation of the service. This fact of itself 
gives the city a desirable prominence and adds greatly to its 
prospects of growth. 

While Nebraska was a territory, the capital was at Omaha, 
and a State-House of imposing appearance Avas erected on 
Capitol Hill. Recently, the capital of the state has been re- 
moved to Lincoln, an inland town some fifty miles to the 
south-west. A railroad will soon connect the two places. 
The state offices still remain at Omaha, where also the Fed- 
eral courts are held. The public buildings are unimportant. 
There is a good court-house and several creditable churches 
are already built and in course of construction. An effort has 
been made during the past summer to supply the city with 
gas, but the works are not completed. The hotels are numer- 
ous, generally well kept, and ^ome of them are imposing 
without and luxurious within. Many of the private residences 
are monuments of good taste, and indicate the ample means 



FROM THE MISSOURI RIVER TO THE :\IOLTNTAINS. 207 

and high culture of their possessors, while a few rise to the 
dignity of palatial mansions of the first class. Of these the 
most noticeable is the estate of Augustus Kountze, Esq., called 
Linden Hill. This suburban villa, with its surroundings, 
tliough lacking the maturity wdiich age and culture will im- 
part, is certainly a very delightful S230t. The house stands 
upon an eminence far above the valley and the adjacent city. 
From this lofty position, the view is lovely beyond description. 
A panorama is presented, including Omaha, the city of Coun- 
cil Bluffs, the broad bottoms, covered with verdure and 
stretching far away, until they are lost in the hazy distance, 
and the Missouri river, whose silver-threaded channel is in 
view for more than fifteen miles, as it winds its way towards 
the Gulf. The distant hum of the busy city, the gliding 
steamers upon the river and the incoming and outgoing 
trains upon the railroads, lend unusual animation to the scene. 
Nature and art are blended into a harmonious whole which 
captivates the senses and delights the enlightened taste. The 
architect and the gardener seem to have caught ins2-)iration 
from the scene, and to have modeled their creations with a 
N'iew rather to illustrate than to beautify nature. Hence the 
chaste and subdued style of the mansion and its out-buildings ; 
and hence the care which has been taken to preserve those 
towering forest trees, those shrubs and native flowers wliicli 
crown the situation. Picturesque as one of those noble old for- 
tresses, reared by feudal hands upon the banks of the Rhine ; 
lo\ely and romantic as are those seats of elegance and ease, 
wliich nestle in tlie nooks and peep out from the verdure-cov- 
ered hill-sides along the Hudson, Linden Hill is crystallized 
into a place of such exquisite beauty that it must be a joy 
forever. 



208 turner's guide to the rocky mountains. 

The early liistoiy of Omaha presents but a reproduction of 
the inflations, speculations, disasters and discouragements 
which most of the cities of the West have experienced. 
Brought before its time into this breathing Avorld, its growth 
was forced by unnatural stimulants until its constitution gave 
way and a general collapse ensued. The commencement of 
the Pacific Kailroad, the opening of new avenues of approach 
from the eastward, and the gradual settlement of the adjacent 
country, imparted new life and vigor, gave present importance 
and glimpses of prospective greatness to the young city. 
Her present only is assured ; her future is to be wrought out 
by a proper use of those advantages which surround her, and 
which enlightened enterprise may readily control. 

The county of Douglas fronts on the Missouri, and is 
bounded on the west by the Platte. The county is not large 
and, until within a few years, has had a bad reputation tor pro- 
ductiveness. It is now ascertained that its lands, though per- 
haps not as fertile as some of the richest portions of the West, 
yield abundant crops, and that few sections are more desirable 
for agricultural purposes. The surface is generally rolling, 
without being broken, and its many beautiful and healthy 
locations for building renders it a favorite place for a desirable 
class of settlers. "V^heat, corn and j^otatoes are successfully 
raised, and the size and quality of garden vegetables supplied 
to Omaha, indicate a soil well adapted to horticultural hus- 
bandry. Fruit-raising is as yet an experiment about which 
little can be predicated with certainty ; it is dilHcult, however, 
to discover any reason why apples, pears, grapes, and the 
smaller fruits may not be profitably cultivated. The popula- 
tion of the county was in 1860 only 4,328 ; at present it must 
considerably exceed twenty thousand. There is now a good 



FROM THE MISSOURI RIVER TO THE MOUNTAINS. 209 

opportunity for selecting desirable farms here, at a low price, 
which, in a few years, will be very valuable. 

Quite recently the traveler, after immense labor and prepa- 
ration, regretfully cast a last, lingering look upon the Missouri 
and the bluffs beyond, and turned his footsteps toward the 
plains and the mountains to the westward. Plunging into the 
\'ast unknown, with all communication with the civilized world 
completely closed, he pursued his weary journey for weeks, 
sometimes for months, as little knowing the events of the busy 
world as though ejected from his native planet. It is so no 
longer. Luxuriously reclining in a palace car, he is now car- 
ried, at great speed, over one of the best railroads in the world, 
across river, plain and mountain. A thousand miles from 
Chicago, he takes his " ease in his inn,'- and, while he daintily 
sips his mocha or his wine, reads the news of the world, not 
an hour old ! A week takes the hasty tourist to the moun- 
tains and Returns him, refreshed and recuperated by vitaKzing 
breezes, to the busy moil of the lake borders. Soon, less time 
will give him a view of the Golden Gate and the placid 
waters of the Pacific. 

The depot and adjacent grounds at Omaha present a busy 
scene. The workshops of the Union Pacific Railroad send 
forth their smoke, and noise, and bustle, while a thousand 
artisans and other workers assert the dignity of their man- 
liood and the nobility of free labor by the concurrent exercise 
of muscle and brains. There are no drones here. How can 
there be when locomotives, cars and all kinds of machinery 
are to be built, and ten thousand men are waiting, a thousand 
miles away for material and supplies with which to construct 
the great railroad of the age ? The scene is a novelty, indeed, 

it is wonderful. Immigrants, tourists and adventurers, 

27 



210 turner's guide to the rocky mountains. 

mingle in the hixurioiis cars and are alike eager for the 
new fortunes and scenes which await them. The train moves 
out and on, not to large cities and towns, and the favorite 
haunts of men, but away from them. It glides along the 
valley, winds through ravines and mounts the hills until, in 
four miles, the Omaha summit is gained two hundred and 
twenty-three feet above the Missouri. Through a line country 
the train speeds on, passing Pappillion (pronounced Papeo), 
twenty-nine miles, to Elkhorn. Shortly, Elkhorn river is 
crossed. To the left a belt of timber marks the course of the 
Platte, and on the other hand the channel of the Elkhorn 
presents a similar indication. Near Yalley station the clear, 
rapid waters of the Platte appear. Thus far the country is 
rolling, but natm-ally fertile. The road now strikes into the 
valley of the Platte, denominated by some the garden spot of 
America. This famous bottom, hundreds of miles in length, 
ranges from eight to fifteen miles in width, while the soil, com- 
posed of a dark, vegetable mould, is from three to ten feet in 
depth, and virtually inexhaustible. Forty-six and a half 
miles from Omaha is the town of Fremont, in Dodge county. 
Of the original inland " paper towns " of Nebraska, this is 
the only one which was not called a city, and it is larger now 
than all the others put together. 

Fremont was laid out in August, 1856, by a company of 
actual settlers, Avho immediately and in earnest commenced 
substantial improvements. The bright hojDes of the pioneers 
were however, not speedily realized, for the financial crash of 
the following year drove many back to the East, and effectu- 
ally crippled the enterprise of those who remained. The 
discovery of gold mines in Colorado, at or near Pike's Peak, 
induced a flood of immigration in 1858 and the following 



FROM THE MISSOURI RIVER TO THE MOUNTAINS. 211 

year, and re-instated the prosperity of the infant town. From 
that time onward, Fremont has had a steady and healthy 
growth, until the population nmnbers over fifteen hundred. 
During the past year, more than two hundred buildings have 
been erected, some of which are quite ornamental as well as 
useful to the town. The new hotel, built by Mr. W. H. 
lluftalen, and now just ready for occupancy, is probably the 
best public house between Omaha and California, and would 
be a credit to almost any place. Business of all kinds is very 
prosperous and is gradually increasing. Something of its 
extent mav be slathered from the fact that there are now there, 
seven hotels and boarding houses, one banking house, six dry 
goods and grocery stores, three exclusively hardware stores, 
two boot and shoe stores, one tobacco store, two drug stores, 
three fruit and notion stores, three grocery stores, two millin- 
ery stores, one furniture store and a fair representiation of 
mechanical industries. There are also two lumber yards, two 
grain warehouses, a fine flouring mill and a well furnished 
livery stable. The Fremont Tribune^ a weekly journal, is 
published by J. N. Hays. The religious organizations are 
Congregationalist, Episcopal, Methodist Episcopal and United 
Presbyterian. The Congregationalists and Episcopals have 
each a neat but not large church edifice. There is a free 
public school of two departments, and St. James' Hall, an 
Episcopal Seminary under the direction of Rev. O. C. Drake, 
is about to be opened. 

Fremont enjoys a fine location in the valley of the Platte, 
flanked l)y the valley of the Elkhorn. Thus, a tributary 
country, of unusual fertility, stretches in every direction. 
The Union Pacific road crosses the southern border of the 
town. A well conducted eatinghouse furnishes supper to 



212 turner's guide to the rocky mountains. 

passengers on the outgoing trains. Tlie Sioux City & Pacific 
road is now nearly graded from De Soto, and will soon form 
a connection with the Union Pacific road here. The Sioux 
City & Pacific road may be practically regarded as an exten- 
sion of the Chicago vt IN^orth-Western from Missouri valley. 
There are two or three other companies organized for the pur- 
pose of building railroads north and south from Fremont. 
The result will probably be a road from Sioux City, by the 
way of Fremont, to Lincoln, the capital of the state. A com- 
pany is also organized to bridge the Platte river at this point. 
The population consists, chiefly, of immigrants from ]N^ew 
England, 'New York and Pennsylvania, and of a superior class 
of Germans, Danes and Irish. The fine business opportu- 
nities are here by no means exhausted. Good mechanics, in 
most branches, are especially needed. 

The boundaries of Dodge county, of which Fremont is tlie 
seat of justice, were defined and fixed at the first session of 
the territorial legislature of Nebraska, in the winter of 1854-5, 
and the county was soon after organized. Its population is 
now^ between four and iixe thousand and is rapidly increasing. 
The quality of the land is most excellent. Wood is scarce, 
but can be obtained, for domestic purposes, at moderate cost. 
Crops grow luxuriantly, mature early and sell readily. The 
market is generally at the West. The price of land ranges 
from $2 50 to $100 per acre, the former for government lands 
and the latter for select locations, well improved, next to the 
county seat. There are from twenty-five to thirty thousand 
acres of government land in the county, subject to entry un- 
der pre-emption and homestead laws. Under the former, 
actual settlement for at least forty days, with improvements 
sufiicient to show actual intent to occupy and cultivate, entitle 



FROM THE MISSOURI RIVER TO THE MOUNTAINS. 213 

the pre-emptor to entry, by paying $2 50 per acre. Under 
the homestead law, actual and continued settlement for five 
years, and payment of about fifteen dollars in fees, entitle the 
applicant to eighty acres without further cost. The pre-emp- 
tor or the applicant for a homestead may be of any tongue, sex, 
color, clime or nation under heaven. Before these laws all 
men are equal arid all women equal to men. JS^o other nation 
in the world can show a plan of equal munificence, or offers 
such inducements to the honest, poor man, no matter whence 
he comes. 

There are many inducements for settlement in Fremont 
and Dodge county. The county is healthy and easy of access ; 
land is cheap and very productive ; a ready market for all pro- 
ductions is at hand ; and, in addition to all these advantages, 
society is already organized and the cherished concomitants 
of civilized life in older communities, are established. 

Columbus is situated on the railroad, and near the southern 
verge of Platte county, forty-six miles west of Fremont. It 
has between three and four hundred people, is in the midst of 
the Platte valley and is, unquestionably, destined to become a 
town of note. The business is already considerable and is 
rapidly increasing. A railroad from Sioux City to this point 
is in anticipation and will probably be built before many 
years. There are several stores and good hotels. A large 
flouring mill has just been completed by an enterprising citi- 
zen, Mr. Hofiinan. 

Two hundred and ninety-one miles from Omaha the J^orth 
Platte is crossed, by means of a bridge twenty-six hundred 
feet in length. This structure is not permanent, but is suffi- 
cient for present use. Ere long, it will be replaced by a 
substantial and expensive woik. A few rods from the river 



214: turner's GiriDE TO 'IFFE ROCKY MOUNTATNP. 

the traveler finds himself at the town of Xorth Platte, an 
important railroad station, containing several hnndred inhab- 
itants. The railroad company has here erected large work- 
shops, a roundhouse and an eatinghouse and hotel. The 
other buildings are not pretentious, but some of them are 
quite neat in appearance. Xorth Platte was, for some months, 
in 1867, the practical terminus of the road and enjoyed a 
nmshroom growth peculiar to places thus situated at the West. 
Trade was brisk, vice, in multifarious forms abounded, and 
anticipations were of the highest kind. Anon, the railroad 
reached Julesburg, eighty-six miles further on, and a general 
hegira commenced. One line June day, the larger portion of 
IN'orth Platte was packed upon cars and, in a night, trans- 
ported to Julesburg. Another day saw Julesburg completed. 
Hotels were ready for guests, wholesale stores for customers 
and haunts of vice for victims. Gamblers, thieves, prostitutes 
and assassins were engaged in a grand carnival of vice. Self 
respect and common decency were lost in the giddy whirl, and 
the very name of Julesburg became a " hissing and a by- 
word " in the land. But here the itenerant city was doomed 
to unrest, and in less than six months it was transported, 
almost bodily, to Cheyenne, the magic city of the plains. At 
the present time the station house and a few straggling huts 
mark the spot where indesci'ibable orgies were once enacted, 
and a few hundred dollars w<»uld buy the whole town where 
single lots, but a twelve-month ago, sold for thousands. 

At the 104th parallel the boundar}^ between Nebraska and 
Wyoming is passed. 

Wyoming has only recently, by act of Congress, been 
erected into a territory. The greater portion of it was once 
a part of Dakota territory. It covers that immense exj)anBe 



FROM THE MISSOURI RIVEK TO THE MOUNTAINS. 215 

of country lying between parallels 41*^ and 45^ north latitude, 
and 104° and 111° longitude west from Greenwich, and has 
an area of one hundred and ten thousand square miles. It is 
therefore larger than Illinois and Iowa united. 

The situation of Wyoming is extraordinary. It is the true 
water shed of the continent. From its lofty svnnmits spring 
the waters of the Missouri, the Platte, the Columbia and the 
Colorado. The surface of the territory is extremely diversi- 
fied, containing, as it does, all modifications of prairie, plain, 
valley and mountain. From this circumstance arises the fact 
that a variety of natural scenery is presented, imequaled, 
perhaps, in the world. The apjj roach to the mountains, from 
the east, is so gradual that an altitude of more than five thous- 
and feet above the surface of the Missouri river is almost 
imperceptibly gained. The scenery, thus far, is quiet, subdued 
and eminently rural. The immediate ascent of the mountain 
range called the Black Hills is abrupt and exceedingly grand. 
Rocks and peaks are piled in most fantastic shapes, bounding 
mountain plains and parks of wonderful beauty. In the 
distance, the eye rests upon what appears to be a city, with 
its temples and its towers, its palaces and its castellated 
defenses. Anon, a huge cathedral, with nave, and transept, 
and buttresses, and columns, bursts, like magic, upon the view, 
as if to assert the sublimity of nature and make ridiculous 
the highest achievements of art. Crumbling peaks and de- 
caying buttes illustrate the silent, irrepressible and infinite 
processes by which the creative hand reduces and modifies all 
matter to the law of uses. In the distance, towers the snowy 
range whose white tops are alternately wrapped in mantles of 
misty blackness or glistening in the full blaze of sunlight. At 
Sherman, thirt}^ miles west of Cheyenne, about five hundred 



216 turner's guide to the rocky mountains. 

and fifty from the Missouri river and a thousand from Chi- 
cago, the practical summit between the two oceans is reached, 
at an altitude, above tide water, of 8,248 feet and this, strange 
to say, without meeting a single rod of maximum grade on 
the Union Pacific Eailroad. Indeed, the wagon road, as it 
winds among the hills and reaches towards the top, encomiters 
less obstructions and has an easier ascent than many of the 
turnpikes of the East. 

The climate, so far as it has reference to health and com- 
fort, is faultless. N'either the heat of summer, nor the cold 
of winter, is excessive. The rarified atmosphere causes the 
turbid blood of the invalid to flow in accelerated and health- 
ful pulsations, while freedom from excessive moisture and 
sudden changes of temperature, renders consumption and all 
diseases of the lungs and throat almost impossible. Thou- 
sands have already attested the healing qualities of these 
mountain breezes, and there can be no doubt that, ere long, 
Wyoming will not only be the resort of the pleasure-seeker, 
but that invalids, in untold numbers, will seek the health- 
giving breezes which constantly play around lier grand old 
mountain tops, and sweep down, through ravines and canons, 
to the grassy and salubrious plains. 

But crags, and peaks and hills, with mountain parks and 
sloping plains, covered with Italian skies, are not the only 
material required for the upbuilding of a great state, or the 
sustenance of a large population. Italy and the Alps, long 
proverbial for beauty and health, with all their wealth of art 
and natural endowments, are jjeopled, to a great extent, by 
peasants, brigands and lazzaroni. The tourist and the invalid 
look for a few days upon the j^icture, inhale the pure air, 
drink the sweet waters, and are gone forever. Profitable in- 



FROM THE MISSOURI RIVER TO THE MOUNTAINS. 217 

dustry, the substantial basis of private or public wealth and 
national importance, are wanting. So with Wyoming : if she 
has nothing within her limits to attract the settler, with his 
labor, his capital and his enterprise — nothing with which to 
build up great industries, and to found, foster and perfect a 
high toned civilization, it were better, perhaps, that she be 
allowed to revert to her original owners, the Indians, and be 
given over to barbarism and savage uses forever. Happily, 
however, it has already been demonstrated that the territory 
contains the elements of immense wealth, and presents in- 
dustrial opportunities scarcely equalled on the continent. 
Let us see. 

The foundation of all industries is agriculture. JSTo people 
can be prosperous and independent without the capacity to 
produce their own food, to supply from their own soil and 
from their own workshops at least a large proportion of their 
necessaries. The inadequacy of the sterile hills of ^ew 
England, aided by the few narrow valleys there, in this regard 
has been long apparent. From this circumstance have arisen 
the many oft-repeated, prolonged and earnest prayers which 
the manufacturers of that section have sent up to our 
national counsels for help in the way of so-called protec- 
tion. The petition is one for bread only. So long as this 
request — augmented and intensified, year by year, as the 
barrenness of the soil increases — is answered, so long New 
England may, perhaps, hold her supremacy as a manufac- 
turing district. The manifest reluctance of the ISTorth-west, 
however, has, within a few years, operated as a disturbing and 
destroying element, and already manufactories as well as 
men are emigrating westward. The material, the oppor- 
tunities and the market are found to be in those fertile states, 
28 



218 turner's guide to the rocky mountains. 

where food is abundant and cheap. There producer and con- 
sumer, in harmony of interests, can make their exchanges 
with facility and economy, and receive all the benefits which 
flow from an untramelled reciprocity. In view of these facts, 
it is proper to inquire as to the agricultural resources of 
Wyoming. Up to the present moment, few attempts at til- 
lage have been made in the territory, so that we can gain 
little light from experience. In every instance, however, 
where crops adapted to the latitude and temj)erature have 
been cultivated, the residt has been successful. The bottoms 
bordering on the streams are fertile, and, as a general thing, 
are sufficiently moist without artificial irrigation. In these 
soils, no doubt, not only grasses, but all the cereals and roots 
usually raised at the temj)erate zone, can be produced with 
unusual facility and in great perfecttion. Much of the country, 
however, is composed of plains, imperfectly watered and 
without timber. A large proportion of these plains are 
arable, and under a proper system of irrigation, will un- 
doubtedly produce in abundance. Where water cannot be 
procured from the surface, wells have only to be sunk a few 
feet in depth. Irrigation is, for the most part, not only easy, 
but comparativ^ely inexpensive. This mode of procuring 
water for the purpose has been successful in Utah, California 
and elsewhere. In short, there is no serious impediment to 
the production of food sufficient for a very large population, 
and at a cost little, if any, exceeding that of similar products 
in Illinois or Iowa. Be this as it may, there is one thing 
absolutely certain : Wyoming as a stock country has no su- 
perior anywhere. Abundant and wonderfully nutritious 
grasses abound on plain and valley, covering the earth as 
with a carpet, far away towards the tops of the mountain 



FROM THE MISSOURI RIVER TO THE MOUNTAINS. 219 

ranges. The dry atmosphere, freedom from fall and early 
winter storms, the even and moderate temperature and abun- 
dant food combine to make the territory the paradise of 
domestic animals. Beef is fat, juicy and of exquisite flavor, 
and the mutton of the mountains is superior to any to be 
found in the low lands. Sheep thrive the year round, without 
artificial shelter, and with no food but grass, and the wool 
produced is said to be much better than is yielded by the 
same animals lower down the slope. The following letter 
from Mr. A. Street, who has been long acquainted with stock- 
feeding hereabouts, has been furnished by Dr. H. Latham, to 
whom it was addressed : 

" From an experience of over twelve years in wintering 
stock on the plains, I am satisfied there is no country better 
adapted to the purpose than Wyoming and Colorado terri- 
tories. I have wintered herds of my own and others in 
Wyoming repeatedly, and the per centage of loss is less than 
in wintering in the states on corn and hay. Here we feed 
nothing, but herd our stock on the dry grass. During the 
last winter I had charge of two thousand head of cattle 
belonging to Wells, Fargo ife Co. These cattle were worked 
very hard during the summer and fall in transporting govern- 
ment supplies to the Powder river country, and many of them 
were not turned out until the first of January, and were so 
poor that they could scarcely travel to the herd grounds, some 
forty miles. They had nothing all winter but grass, not a 
mouthful of hay nor grain, and yet we lost only about thirty 
head out of the two thousand. Many of them were fat 
enough for beef in March and April, and by the first of May 
nearly all were in good working condition. From long expe- 
rience, I am fully satisfied that the ' gramma,' or bunch grass 



220 turner's guide to the rocky mountains. 

which abounds in this country, is far superior to any of the 
tame grasses of the states. Drying up in the fall without any 
rain upon it, it retains all its nutritious properties, and re- 
mains green at the root all winter." 

The facts and opinions expressed in the foregoing note 
could be abundantly fortified by the experience of hundreds 
of other herdsmen and ranchmen. There can be no doubt of 
the general proposition that Wyoming is unsurpassed as a 
grazing country. 

But the excellent agricultural character of the territory 
being conceded, it may be properly urged that no country 
exclusively rural in its pursuits can, from the nature of things, 
ever become densely populated. This is undoubtedly true, 
and it becomes proper to inquire what other facilities are 
offered for the absorption of labor, the employment of capital, 
and for useful production. 

Of timber, in some portions of Wyoming, there is so little 
that it may be almost truthfully said there is none. Along 
some of the water-courses, and occasionally upon the bluffs 
and hills a tolerably fair growth is found, while on many of 
the mountains, as the Medicine Bow, Mud river. Big Horn 
and Snowy ranges, large forests of an excellent quality of 
white and yellow pine and ISTorway spruce abound. But it 
is evident that those industries which mainly require for their 
prosecution the products of the forests cannot be successful 
here. Even fuel is now, or must soon be, sought for else- 
where. Nature, however, sometimes prodigal but seldom 
parsimonious, operating by the great law of compensation, has 
underlaid plain and mountain with incredible quantities of 
most excellent coal. The value of this mineral alone, which 
is already discovered, is great beyond estimate. Those able 



FROM THE MISSOURI RIVER TO THE MOUNTAINS. 221 

and experienced geologists, Professors Silliman and Hill, 
report that fields of bituminous coal underlie many thousands 
of square miles in "Wyoming. Professor Silliman says he has, 
from personal inspection, determined the location of over five 
thousand square miles of coal-fields, and has satisfactory evi- 
dence of the existence of more than twenty-five thousand 
miles more. He descended into a shaft and saw several dis- 
tinct veins of superior quality, varying in thickness from five 
to eleven feet. This shaft is near Carbon, on the Union 
Pacific Railroad, six hundred and fifty miles west of the Mis- 
souri river, and is now worked on a large scale by the railroad 
company. In many places coal crops out, and gives indica- 
tion of fine drifts of unusual thickness. The quality of the 
mineral, thus far examined, varies considerably, but all of it 
is good. An inspection of the specimens in the cabinet of the 
geologist of the railroad corporation at Omaha, will serve to 
verify representations seemingly extravagant in relation to 
the quality and extent of these valuable deposits. 

Thus is a great want of the country supplied with abund- 
ance from an unexpected source. But these discoveries, 
scarcely second to no one of the age, when the scarcity of 
fuel west of the Missouri valley is considered, could form the 
foundation of but a very limited industry but for the concur- 
rent one of immense deposits of iron ore in close proximity 
to the coal. Here now is presented the basis of manufactur- 
ing interests which promise an immediate and very great 
influx of population and a prospective wealth beyond esti- 
mate. ( Told and silver and other valuable minerals undoubtedly 
exist in these mountains, indeed, in many places they have 
already been discovered. Some adventurers will seek and 
find fortunes in unearthing these precious deposits ; but all of 



222 turner's guide to the rocky mountains. 

them together, added to all the other gold and silver mines in 
the world, do not approach, in intrinsic vahie, the coal and 
iron mines of Wyoming. Tn relation to this subject the 
accomplished government geologist, F. T. Hayden, writes as 
follows to Dr. Latham, of Cheyenne, under date of August 
24th, 1868 : 

• " I take great pleasure in communicating to you some of 
the results of my examination of the iron districts of Wyo- 
ming. I regard the iron ore leads of the territory as of great 
value, and almost indefinite in extent ; and if the coal of 
which there is the greatest quantity, can be made useful for 
smelting this iron, it will prove as great a source of wealth to 
the people of this country as the iron ore leads of Pennsylva- 
nia are to the people of that state. 

"The first iron mines I examined wei*e those connected 
with the coal formations along the eastern base of the Lara- 
mie range, commencing about ten miles south of Cheyenne 
City. This ore is an amonite, commonly known by the name 
of brown hematite, or brown iron ore. The specimens 
obtained were very compact, showing that it must have been 
derived from the carbonate of iron, and it will certainly prove 
to be of excellent quality. I have estimated the coal forma- 
tions south of Cheyenne City and north of the Arkansas, to 
occupy an area of over fi\'e thousand square miles, and all 
this country is covered with this brown iron ore to a greater 
or less extent. It is said to yield seventy per cent, of metallic 
iron, and about three tons of the ore is required to make one 
ton of pig iron. This ore has been pronounced, by such 
authorities as Profs. Hill and Sillinuxn, equal to the best 
brown ores of the East. 

"At the sources of the Chug Water are massive beds of 



FROM TUB MISSOURI RIVER TO THE MOUNTAINS. 223 

iriagnetic iron ore of the best qnality. It is very mucli like 
the Champlain ores of the East, and cannot fail to produce 
the best of iron. The quantity is unlimited, and if the pow- 
erful corporation of the Union Pacific Eailroad can succeed in 
combining the two great elements of wealth in this territory 
— coal and iron — so as to utilize them, Wyoming must event- 
ually hold a relation to the contiguous territories similar to 
that w^hich Pennsylvania now sustains towards the neighbor- 
ing states. Polling mills and iron furnaces will spring up 
everywhere, and it will not be many years before the last ton 
of iron will cross the Missouri river on its way westward. 
You have enough iron ore in the territory of Wyoming alone 
to supply the demand of the entire West for a generation or 
more, and new discoveries will be made almost daily. The 
time has come when the vast mineral wealth of this region 
must be rendered useful, and successful methods of reducing 
the ores will be sought and found." 

Cheyenne, the chief city of Wyoming, and probably to be 
the territorial capital, is situated on Crow creek, a small trib- 
utary of the Platte, and near the base of the Black Hills, 
which form a notable spur of the Eocky mountains. Its his- 
tory, so far, presents many remarkable points. On the 9th of 
July, 1867, Hon. J. R. Whitehead pitched his tent here and 
became the first settler. The same day Thos. E. McLeland, 
the present postmaster, and P. M. Beers, arrived with their 
families. The survey of the town was commenced, by the rail- 
road company, on the 19th and completed on the 21st. The 
first city election was held on the 10th of August, when 350 
votes were polled. On the same day the post-office was estab- 
lished, through which were daily sent and received in October, 
Kovember and December following, over twenty-six hundred 



224 turner's guide to the rocky mountains. 

letters. A daily paper called the Leader was first published 
by N. A. Baker, September 19th. The first banking house 
was opened on the 25th of the same month. A second daily 
paper, the Argus^ was established towards the close of Octo- 
ber. The railroad was completed to Cheyenne, November 
13th, and the first passenger train from Omaha arrived the 
following day. A city charter was graiited by the territorial 
legislature, about the first of January, 1868, and the first 
election under it was held on the 28th. On the 10th of Jan- 
uary, society had become so far civilized that a vigilance 
committee was organized, the functions of which were exer- 
cised on the 20th in the hanging of three desperadoes, and a 
gentle admonition to some hundreds of others to keep the 
peace or prepare for the consequences. 

The growth of the new city was almost magical. Blocks 
of business houses were erected in a few weeks. Immense 
stocks of all kinds of merchandise poured in, and soon a 
dozen streets became busy marts of trade. The population 
swelled to at least six thousand in as many months. Yice, as 
well as business, flourished exceedingly, until Cheyenne 
enjoyed the unenviable notoriety of being the wickedest place 
in the world. As the time for opening the raih-oad line to 
Laramie drew near, the scum and filth of Cheyenne began to 
disappear. Swarms of brutalized and loathsome beings 
migrated across the Black Hills to new scenes of wretchedness 
and vice. Thus happily purified \\\(i real prosperity of the 
magic city commenced. There are now few indications of 
immorality here, not seen in towns of similar size elsewhere. 
The population is somew^hat diminished in numbers but greatly 
improved in quality. Decent people can now live here with- 
out blushing, and may properly be proud of the civil, moral 



FROM THE MISSOURI RIVER TO THE MOUNTAINS. 225 

and business-like aspect of their healthy and very pretty city. 
Trade has become permanent and substantial, and honest, 
useful industry is meeting with satisfactory rewards. 

Cheyenne is five hundred and sixteen miles west from 
Omaha. Its proximity to the mountains must ever make it 
an important railroad depot. A large number of powerful 
engines must at all times be kept in readiness here, and, as a 
consequence, extensive workshops must be maintained. The 
railroad company has already built splendid accommodations, 
and has also erected a large hotel and eating-house. A rail- 
road will soon connect the place with Denver, a trifle ovei- 
one hundred miles distant, and, very likely, before long a con- 
nection with the Eastern Division of the Union Pacific Rail- 
road will open up a continuous route to St. Louis. The 
wholesale business of the city is now large, and as the point 
is one from whence supplies must inevitably flow in all direc- 
tions, the trade will increase with the settlement of the sur- 
rounding country and the accumulation of avenues of distri- 
bution. Fort Eussel, one of the largest military posts on the 
plains, is located three miles north of the city. The distribu- 
ting Quartermaster has also large warehouses and corrals near 
by, whence supplies go out in all directions to the various 
posts. 

HAZ.^:RD station is six miles west of Cheyenne, and at the 
immediate base of the Black Hills. Here the mountain as- 
cent begins in earnest. The ascending grades and devious 
windings of the road bring us, in a few miles, to a view of 
the eternal snows which crown the distant mountain peaks. 
All around, as far as the eye can reach, mture asserts the 
sublimity of her fashioning, in ten thousand aspects of pictu- 
resqueness and beauty. The laboring engine, stern in the 



226 TURNER'S GUIDE TO THE ROCKl MOUNTAINS. 

apparent consciousness of inherent power, crawls up tlie 
grade, and winds, with its clattering train, among hills of 
granite, through parks of exquisite beauty, and over yawning 
chasms, towards the summit, (tranite Canon is gained. 
The vision is absolutely astounded. The grand, the sublime 
and the beautiful are mingled in a landscape bounded on the 
one side by everlasting snows, and on the other, by soft Italian 
skies. Eastward stretch the plains, gently melting into the 
azure of the distant horizon ; westward the snowy range, in 
chalky undulations, bounds the ^dew. All around are evi- 
dences of those creations whicli mark the Ancient of Bays, 
of growth, perfection and decay. Up, up the grand old 
mountains to the very summit. Sherman is gained, and the 
traveler stands amazed, 8,248 feet above tide water, and as 
near heaven as the Union PaciHc Railroad approaches. The 
rarefied atmosphere allows the blood to course freely through 
the veins ; the spirits rise, by natural exhilaration, to a point 
of almost moral intoxication ; the eye is ravished with the 
prospect ; the senses are astounded at the profound and inde- 
structible records of creative power. The crumbling peaks, 
the decaying buttes, and the general disintegraticm of j'ocky 
masses, mark the ongoing transformations of the material 
world. A spring of pure, soft, sweet water gushes from its 
granite fountain, and dances in fantastic riffles dowTi the 
mountain side. light and shade alternate over the broad ex- 
panse. Now the shimmering sunlight is reflected troiii a 
neighboring peak, and anon a gathering cloud gives portent 
of the approaching tempest. Here the waters of the conti- 
nent divide. In one direction, the pui-ling rills start on theii- 
long joui'ney to the Atlantic; in the other, they tumble down 
the Pacilic slope. 



FROM TTTE MTSSOT"^RT RTVER TO TFTE MOFXTAINS. 227 

Xow commences the descent. Soon the first maximum 
grade of ninety feet to the mile is encountered. The brakes 
groan and creak \diile the reversed engine cautiously steadies 
its precious freight down the apparent precipice. Shortly the 
high bridge over Dale creek is crossed, at snail's pace. It is 
a dizzy liiglit, but engineering and money have made the 
passage entirely secure. Decayed granite forms the road bed. 
Weather-beaten and crumbling buttes appear on either hand. 
The character of the country changes. There is nioi'e vege- 
tation and timbei* and better soil than on the eastern slope. 
In a few miles red sandstone appears, and, directly, emerging 
from mountain fastnesses, the train sweeps into the plains of 
Laramie. It is no light thing to cross this summit; indeed, 
its passage forms an experience to be cherished for a lifetime. 
Ere long the tourist will linger here, and, l>y degrees and in 
detail^ digest the scene, and revel in the inspiration which it 
imparts. Compared with what is here seen, the mountains 
of the East are dwarfed into Lilliputian hills ; even Mount 
Washington sinks into a gentle undulation, and the Adiron- 
dacs become elevated plains. 

The Laramie plains have the appearance of great fertility. 
Doubtless some artificial irrigation would be necessary to suc- 
cessful cultivation. The soil, from the base of the hills to the 
river, is of a reddish cast, and, as a peculiarity, it may be 
noted that the easterly bank of the Laramie, for many miles, 
is red, while the other side is of a whitish and entirely difier- 
ent formation. This distinction is constant, no matter how 
frequent nor how abrupt the windings oi' the stream. 

Fort Saunders is five hundred and seventy-one miles from 
Omaha, and one and a half miles further on is the city of 
Laramie. The position of this new city, now scarcely six 



228 turnek's guide to the rocky mountains. 

months old, must always make it a place of importance. Like 
Cheyenne, it has run its course of what may be called ter- 
minal wickedness, and its scum has floated on to the railroad 
front. The permanent population is not large, but is healthily 
increasing. The railroad company has erected a large round- 
house, extensive workshops, and a hotel and eating-house, 
which would grace almost any Atlantic city. There is an air 
of business and thrift here Avhich presages prosperity and 
growth. The ti-aveler cannot fail to be impressed with the 
change wrought by the advent of the railroad in the short 
space of a few months. 

Crossing, directly, the Laramie river, we strike out upon 
those j)lains so long and so justly the terror of the immigrant. 
Yery soon white crusts and exudations appear in spots, un- 
mistakably indicating that the earth is poisoned by an excess 
of alkali. Vegetation is stinted, and finally ceases altogether. 
The eyes, the mouth, the whole j)erson is tortured with the 
penetrating salt. The water is useless, and so are the barren 
plains which stretch in every direction. Every acre is a 
token of worthlessness, and an earnest of poverty to its pos- 
sessor. A landed aristocracy here would be the lazzaroni of 
the world. The fee simple of a universe of such land would 
entitle its possessor to such cliarity as the pauper has a right 
to claim, but not to a vote, if a real estate qualification were 
required. So much for the soil of these plains. Here, how- 
ever, comes in again the law of compensation. Underlying 
the whole worthless surface are coal mines of great value, 
which no conceivable consumption can exhaust in centuries to 
come. 

The bluffs to the eastward rise high and precipitous, resem- 
bling those which bound the Missouri valley. Ten miles from 



FROM THE Ml!?SULKr KIVEK To THE MOlNTAIN^i. 229 

Laramie another line of bluffs appears, nearly at right angles 
with the former, but lower, and resembling tlie banks of the 
upper Ohio. These are occasionally shaded down as though 
wagon roads had been graded through them. On the left, 
the snowy range is at all times in sight. Soon after leaving 
Wyoming station Little Laramie is crossed, near its mouth, 
where the Great Laramie again appears, creeping along the 
bluff's. Henceforward, to the west crossing of ]N"orth Platte, 
the sameness is alnu>st paintul. Benton, six hundred and 
ninety-five miles from Omaha, is reached, and here, to quote 
the words of a recent traveler, '• on the ashy plain, with not 
a blade of grass, much less a tree, with the delicate poisonous 
dust filling the air, and irritating every sense, is a most 
exaggerated and offensive specimen of the mushroom town, 
that follows the temporary terminus of the road. A thousand 
or two people are gathered in tents and cheap board shanties ; 
the railroad employs a hundred or two ; a few of the rest are 
cheap store-keepers, but the great bulk are running ' restaur- 
ants ' and ' saloons,' or are downright loafers and speculators 
in the vices of themselves and their fellows. It is enough to 
turn a healthy stomach to wade through the deep and volatile 
dust of its streets and study the prevailing life along them. 
Purgatory would be a paradise compared to it for a week's 
residence. Thirty days hence it will move on and evaporate : 
else it would soon perish from its own poisons of earth and 
air and humanity. Such an aggregation of disagreeableness 
and oftensiveness can only long exist by frequent changes. 
It would rot with permanence." 

The railroad is completed about one hundred and fifty 
miles beyond Benton, but at the present writing is not open 
for travel. Wonderful eff'orts are being used t(.> perfect the 



280 



TURNER S GFinK TO THE ROCKY MOUNTAINS. 



work, and it may be safely predicted tliat by the tourtli day 
n1' 'Tidy. 1869, trains will pass troni the Missouri to Saci'a- 
uiento, Califoi'iiia. 

Tlic towns on the Ihiion l^icilic road are, at present, few 
and far between. The most important ones have already 
been mentioned. The stations are frequent, and for the bene- 
lit of travelers, as well as a matter of record, the names of 
these are given, together with their respective distances from 
Omaha : 



NAMBS OF STATIONS. 



Pappillion , 

Elkhorn 

Valley 

Fremont 

North Bend.... 
Shell Creek.... 

Columbus 

Jackson 

Silver Creek.., 

Clark's 

Lone Tree .... 

Chapman's 

Grand Island.. 

Pawnee 

Wood River.... 

Gibbon 

Kearney 

Stevenson 

Elm Creek 

Plum Creek.... 
Willow Island. 
Bradj"^ Island.. 
McPherson .... 
North Platte .. 

O'Fallons , 

Alkali 

Ogalalla 

Big Spring 



Distance 

from 
Omaha. 



12..3 

28..9 

35..2 

46..5 

61. .5 

75..9 

91..7 

99..3 

109..4 

120..7 

131. .9 

142..3 

153..8 

161. .5 

172..1 

182..9 

19 1. .3 

201 ..2 

211..5 

230..3 

250..7 

268..4 

277..5 

291. .4 

307..9 

322..4 

341. .6 

36(»..9 



NAMES OK STATIONS. 



Julesburg 

Lodge Pole 

Sidney 

Potter 

Autelope 

Bushnell 

Pine Bluff 

Egbert 

Hillsdale 

Archer 

Cheyenne 

Hazard 

Granite Canon. 

Buford 

Sherman 

Red Butte 

P'ort Sanders.. 

Laramie 

Wyoming 

Cooper's Lake. 

Lookout 

Rock Creek 

Como 

Medicine Bow.. 

Carbon 

Percy 

St. Mary's 

Benton 



Distance 

froni 
Omaha. 

~S77.A 
396..0 
414..2 
433..1 
451. .8 
463..2 
473..2 
484..4 
496..4 
508..O 
516..4 
522..4 
535.-4 
542..2 
548..'.^ 
564..0 
571..2 
572..5 
586..4 
598..1 
603. .6 
622..1 
637..6 
644..7 
653..4 
665..6 
679..0 
694..5 



The following table, showing the altitude and distances on 
the IT. P. R. R. from Omaha to f]\e California line, is taken 
from a report of Gen. G. M. Dodge, chief engineer of tlie 
i"t»a<l : 



FROM THE MISSOURI RIVER TO THE MOUNTAINS. 



231 



Distanee. 



Missouri river at Omaha — initial point of first hundred., 

Omaha summit — elev. grade 

Elkhorn summit 

Elkhorn river, surface of water at crossing 

North Platte, surface of water at crossing 

Station 4034^ near mouth of Lodge Pole, Julesburg 

Lodge Pole creek junction, station 5575 

Crow creek crossing, Cheyenne 

Evans' Pass, Sherman 

Laramie river junction 

Green river, mouth of Bitter creek 

Summit between Black's Fork and Green river 

Water in Black's Fork, 2 miles below mouth of Muddy 

creek 

Summit between Muddy creek and Bear river 

Sui'face of water in Bear river 

Summit at head of Echo canon 

Mouth of Weber canon 

Salt Lake City 

Desert, east side 

Desert, west side 

Gooshoot Pass 

Reed's Pass of Humboldt Mountains 

State line of California — terminal point 



0.00 

4.17 

28.97 

30.49 

290.53 

376.95 

484.75 

513.76 

545.62 

571.39 

812.34 

820.00 

858.00 

893.00 

926.00 

959.00 

995.00 

1026.76 

1100.84 

1176.00 

1259.47 
1622.50 



Altitude. 



968 
1191 
1191 
1191 
2790 
3528 
5262 
6019 
8248 
7175 
6315 
6464 

6375 
7567 
7046 
5535 
4655 
4285 
4600 
4700 
6030 
5550 
5195 



The distances fr<Mn Cheyenne to the places named are as 
follows : 



Fort Laramie, - 
Fort Fetterman, 
Fort Keno, - - 



- 90 miles. Denver, Col. Ter., Ill miles. 

- 80 " Helena, Mont. To]-., 609 '' 

- 104 '' Fort Benton, '• 749 •' 



We have ah'eady spoken, at considerable length, of the 
Union Pacific Eailroad. Yery httle more need be said. It 
is one of the best constructed roads on the continent, and 
is more perfect In all its appointments than the larger propoi-- 
tioii (►f older lines. The freight and })assenger cars embody 
all the latest improvements, and are suificiently numerous 
foi- the large trathc of the r<uid. The Pullman sleeping cars 
are simply palaces on wheels. All the best machine shops of 
the country have contributed their skill and experience in 
furnishing motive power, so that the numerous engines are 
nowhere surpassed. Eating-houses are established at con- 



282 TURNER S GUIDE TO THE ROCKY MOUNTAINS. 

venient points and their affairs are superbly administered. 
The road bed is even, compact and substantial. Tu speak of 
the management of the road is difficult, because the simple 
truth carries with it an air of exaggeration, and just commen- 
dation requires more words in the superlative than good 
taste will tolerate. A high rate of speed is attained with 
ease and perfect safety, and altogether it is a very pleasant 
road to travel over. The passenger trains are at all times 
well tilled and frequently crowded, while the amount of 
freight passing westward is immense. A large proportion of 
the freight business is for the government, but much the 
largest on account of the railroad corporation itself. 

At Cheyenne, connection is made with Wells, Fargo & Co.'s 
stages and freight lines for Denver, Central City and other 
places in Colorado, and for far-otf stations in 'New Mexico and 
N^evada. At the temporary terminus of the road the stages 
and expresses of the same enterprising company meet the 
trains with extraordinary punctuality, and carry passengers 
and freight to Salt Lake City, Virginia, Helena, Boise City, 
and a hundred other places. 

The route from Cheyenne tu Denver has already become 
quite familiar to travelers. Splendid coaches, drawn by six 
blooded horses, better bred than the English hunter, and 
active and nimble as the famed steeds of Arabia, roll at high 
speed over roads Macadamized by nature beyond the approach 
of art. The distance is one hundred and eleven miles. 
Sweeping around towards the base of Long's Peak, and in 
full view of Mount Sheridan, the i-oute crosses the Cache-a- 
la-Poudre and strikes Denver on the hither side of the Platte. 
But for the slight unpleasantness which exists between '' Lo, 
the poor Indian " and his white brother, the journey would 



FROM THE MISSOURI RIVER TO THE MOUNTAINS. 233 

be one of the most desirable iii the world. Over this route, 
until our Indian commissioners have other " big talks " with, 
and make further distributions of arms and ammunition to 
the " noble red man," it must be confessed that a Spencer 
rifle is a very pleasant traveling companion. 

It is not proposed here to enter into a description of Col- 
orado, its cities, mines, mountains, plains, parks and wonders 
in general. This will be done in a separate work soon to be 
prepared, which will include a sketch of the approach by the 
Smoky Hill route, from Kansas City on the Missouri. 

The efficient officers of the Union Pacific KaiLroad Com- 
pany are as follows : 

President, ----- Oliver Ames, Esq. 

Vice-President, - - - T. C. Durant, Esq. 

General Superintendent, Webster Snyder, Esq. 

Deputy Superintendent, H. M. Hoxie, Esq. 

Chief Engineer, - - - Gen. G. M. Dodge. 

Geologist, ----- David Van Lennep, Esq. 

Treasurer, ----- John J. Cisco, Esq. 



30 



VIII. 



THE MISSOUKI VALLEY — SIOUX CITY AND PA- 
CIFIC RAILROAD— THE GREAT ROUTE TO THE 
UPPER MISSOURI— THE NORTH-WEST TRANS- 
PORTATION COMPANY. 



At Missouri Valley Junction the Sioux City and Pacific 
Railroad diverges from the Chicago and North- Western, and 
runs northward to Sioux City seventy-five miles. This road 
is new, it having been opened only in March last, is well con- 
structed, and ably conducted. It passes through a country 
remarkably well adapted to the purposes of a railroad. After 
making the first abrupt turn at Yazoo station, near the Mis- 
souri river, it runs nearly seventy miles north with but very 
few and very slight curves. For more than seventy miles it 
has not a single cut. The road bed is thrown up from either 
side, and ample ditches are thus made for complete drainage. 
Other than this necessary and uniform elevation there are no 
embankments. The grades are so slight as to be entirely 
imperceptible to the unassisted eye. The bridges are few, 
short and easily built. Altogether, for speed, safety and 
economy this road has few equals and no superiors. Very 
few, if any, of the railroad lines hitherto opened in the coun- 
try, are presently or prospectively more important than this. 
By it the settlement and cultivation of the great Missouri 



THE MISSOURI VALLEY. 235 

valley, stretching from Council Bhiffs away north to Sioux 
City, a distance of nearly ninety miles, are not only made 
possible, but profitable. This valley forms, perhaps, one of 
the most extraordinary bodies of land in America, certainly 
in the Union. Its width varies from a few to more than 
twenty miles, and it contains an area of nearly a million acres 
of farming land of almost inconceivable richness. The soil, 
which is an alluvial deposit, freighted, probably, by the tur- 
bid waters of the Missouri from the upper countries, is, on an 
average, not less than fourteen feet in depth, and is said to be 
just as fertile at the bottom as at the top. It is black, light, 
and easily worked. It is scarcely ever seriously affected by 
drouth, and quickly absorbs a superabimdance of rain. But 
small portions are ever injured by floods, and even these can be 
reclaimed from danger at trifling cost. Many small lakes and 
bayous, together with the several rivers which flow through, 
afford abundant and convenient watering places for stock, and 
good water is found, at any point, at less than twenty feet be- 
low the surface. The immense growth of native grasses and 
other verdure attests the quality of the soil, three tons of good 
hay being often gathered from an acre. One hundred bush- 
els of corn, or forty bushels of wheat, can easily be raised to 
the acre, by a fair system of tillage, so that the valley is ca- 
pable of producing three million tons of hay, one hundred 
million bushels of corn, or forty million bushels of wheat, 
as it might be cultivated in either, to the exclusion of all else. 
The timber lands bordering on the Missouri and other rivers 
are quite extensive, and groves and spurs of cottonwood and 
other forest trees are met at frequent intervals. On the east- 
ern side, picturesque blufts, generally crowned with trees, rise to 
the hight of from a few to more than two hundred feet, in- 



236 turner's guide to the rocky mountain's. 

termitting only for the passage of incoming rivers and their 
fertile valleys. Of these streams, the Little Sioux, the Ma- 
ple, the Soldier and the Willow may be named as the most im- 
portant. Some of these subsidiary valleys stretch for miles 
away from the main one, and vary in width from three miles 
to less than one. They are generally well wooded, and, from 
the fact that they are well protected from the severe winter 
winds, have already become favorite places for settlement. 
This grand natural garden spot, embracing not much less than 
a fiftieth part of the state, is, no doubt, capable of sustaining 
in luxury more people than inhabit the state to-day. There 
is no hazard in the prophecy that, before many years, these 
cheap lands, teeming with latent agricultural wealth, will be 
covered with productive farms, and thickly settled with an in- 
telligent and independent populace. Towns will be built, 
manufactures will flourish, and all the appliances and results 
of civilized life will abound. The traveler in the West will 
find very few objects or places which will better repay a care- 
ful inspection than the Missouri valley, from Council Bluffs to 
Sioux City. 

Leaving Missouri Yalley Junction, the road loms nearly due 
west six miles, to Yazoo station. A track is ah-eady being- 
laid west from Yazoo to the Missouri River, where a crossing- 
is intended at or near De Soto, Nebraska. Thence a road is 
contemplated, and will soon be completed, to Fremont, on the 
Union Pacific line, forty-seven miles west of Omaha. This, 
when in operation, will shorten the through route to the 
mountains many miles. At Yazoo the Sioux City & Pacific 
road makes an abrupt curve to the northward, and thenceforth 
deviates little from a straight line to near its termination. 
The stations and distances from Missouri Valley are as follows : 





THE 


MTS80TTRI VAT.LEY. 


237 


Yazoo, - - - 


■ - 6 miles. 


Blencoe, - - 


- 32 miles. 


Modale, - ■ 


- - 10 


u 


Onawa, - - 


- 38 " 


Mondamin, 


- - 16 


kk 


Sloan, - - - . 


- 55 " 


River Sioux, 


- - 23 


u 


Sargent's Bluff, 


- 69 " 


S 


ioux Ci^ 


7. - 


- - - Y5 miles. 





Onawa is the only place worthy of present notice between 
the termini. It is a very attractive and flourishing town on 
the prairie, of some four hundred inhabitants, and is the cap- 
ital of Monona County. There is a respectable court-house, 
a weekly newspaper, several churches, and a good school. 
The railroad company has erected tasty and commodious 
depot buildings. The "Onawa House" is a generous hos- 
telry, reminding one of those "taverns" of many years ago 
in the eastern states, where the traveler was sure to find a 
welcome, fortified by neatness, rest and plenty. The business 
houses of Onawa are quite numerous, and sufficiently large, 
while the dwellings have a tidy and attractive appearance. 
It is the center of a profitable and growing trade, and has 
generally the elements of a populous and very desirable place. 
The price of real estate is reasonable, and many improve- 
ments are going on. 

The country around Onawa, which is in Franklin township, 
cannot be too highly commended to the notice of those in 
search of a desirable place for settlement. It is all com- 
posed of that rich prairie bottom of which we have before 
spoken. The prices of land are variable, but none high. For 
a wide circuit improved farms are so frequent that locations 
are easily secured in good neighborhoods, where all social and 
fair educational privileges can be enjoyed. Building and 
fencing materials, although comparatively high, are easily se- 
cured. There are unlimited ranges for cattle, and hay, in any 



238 turner's guide to the rooky mountaests. 

quantities, can be cut and secured at a slight cost. Fuel is 
somewhat expensive, But readily obtained. What this county 
wants is intelligent, industrious farmers and mechanics. To 
such no warmer welcome will be extended anywhere, and no- 
where will such persons find a place which affords more sub- 
stantial inducements for settlement. 

Passing up the valley, no change in the general features of 
the country is observed until we reach Sargent's Bluff. Here 
the bluffs, toned down to moderate proportions, make out to 
the westward, and nearly reach the river. A short distance 
further on, and the valley is completely shut in, the Missouri 
washing the base of the bluffs. Here occurs the first and only 
excavation on the road. The cuts, though quite deep in 
places, are short, and were easily made, and offer no impedi- 
ment to the working of the track. Emerging from these cuts, 
glimpses of Sioux City are caught, and directly the train, 
turning a sharp curve to the left, stands still at the depot and 
terminus of all railroading in this direction. 

Sioux City is, in many respects, one of the most import- 
ant places in the North-West, and is well worthy to command 
the attention of capitalists and men of business. It is, of 
course, a modern city. The first buildings, chiefly of logs, 
were erected only thirteen years ago. It was then in the 
midst of a dreary wild, with few civilized inhabitants within 
many miles. Approaches from a distance by land were quite 
impracticable, if not impossible. The Missouri river was the 
common highway, and when that was closed communication 
with the outside world was nearly suspended. The trade upon 
the upper Missouri was so limited that steamboats . in those 
far-off regions were but occasional visitors. The arrival of a 
boat was an incident which might well attract the attention of 



THE MISSOURI VALLEY. 239 

all the settlers. By boats came much of the food, many of 
the necessaries, and all of the rude luxuries of pioneer life. 
The shrill whistle, echoing through the timber and along the 
bluffs, betokened the arrival of new immigrants, gave promise 
of messages from distant homes, and suggested the possibility 
of approaching visitors, whose familiar faces should make 
manv hearts e^lad. And so there was much watchins^,' some- 
times tearful, but hearty, greetings, and frequent disappoint- 
ments. 

In 1856 many additions were made to the new town, and 
all went prosperously enough until the great financial revul- 
sion of 1858, sweeping through the country like a tornado, 
reached the frontier town, and overwhelmed bright hopes and 
budding fortunes in a common and almost irretrievable ruin. 
The devastation of Sioux City was almost complete, nor was 
it until four years thereafter that gleams of light broke through 
the darkness. Many who had come here determined and 
hopeful, and expecting to make homes and fortunes, had de- 
spondingly retraced their steps, and other adventurers failed 
to replace the fugitives. Utter depopulation seemed almost 
inevitable. But the turning-point came at length, and a sec- 
ond day of prosperity dawned, brighter than the first. The 
Indian war in Dakota and Minnesota was the immediate cause 
of the second advent of prosperity, the occasion of financial 
and business recuperation. Immediately Sioux City became 
a sort of sub-base of operations and supplies for the govern- 
m'ent, and an important point of rendezvous for the army. 
Settlers were attracted, capital flowed in, all branches of trade 
and industry flourished, improvements were made, the lost 
vantage-ground was recovered, and the future of the town 
assured beyond a doubt. 



240 turner's guide to the rocky mountains. 

Immediately following, or, rather, concurrent with, the stim- 
ulus of the war, came a knowledge of the discovery of mines 
of glittering wealth in Montana and Idaho. The armies of 
the rebellion were then disbanding, and hardy and enterpris- 
ing men immediately flocked in myriads to the golden fields. 
St. Louis, with her usual avidity, sought to control the new 
trade, in which she was, to a large extent, successful ; but 
Sioux City retained her position as a convenient place for 
outfit and supply. Trade increased, and, day by day, became 
more permanent and profitable. Then came the railroad, 
opening up a new, convenient and cheap avenue of transpor- 
tation and traftic, and giving to the city an importance hitherto 
only dreamed of by the most sanguine. 

Up to the time of the opening of the Sioux City and Pa- 
cific Railroad, it was easy enough for St. Louis t<» measurably 
control the trade of the upper Missouri and rlie mountains 
which it penetrates. JSTow, however, the situation is changed, 
and Sioux City has become, or is fast becoming, the river 
base. Nearly a thousand miles of dangerous and uncertain 
river navigation is cut ofi", a great amount of time and expense 
saved, and much annoyance obviated. A. healthy competition 
is also secured. 

The distance from St. Louis to Fort Benton, the head of 
navigation on the Missouri river, is over three thousand one 
hundred miles, and no boat, it is believed, has ever been able 
to make but a single round trip in the season. So profitable 
has been the monopoly, however, that it has not been an 
infrequent occurrence for a steamboat to clear her cost in a 
single season. Freight and passenger fare were inordinately 
high, and the usual insolence of unchallenged carriers became 
:in iiuiioyance, if not an intolerable nidsance. The legal 



THE MISSOURI VALLEY. 241 

restraints imposed upon common carriers were evaded, ignored 
and laughed at. Carelessness and indifference became almost 
a habit, and the disappointed and ruined shipper was often 
left to repair his fortunes as best he could. N"o wonder dis- 
satisfaction grew to be deep and frequent. The railroad, that 
great equalizer of values, and convenient distributer of pro- 
ducts, came, and an immediate change took place. Chicago 
was at once placed in close business relations with the moun- 
tains, and navigation over a thousand miles of riffles and 
sand bars was obviated. The I^^orth-West Transportation 
Company, operating in connection with, though uncontrolled 
by, the railroad interest, completes the line of speedy transit 
to the head of navigation, some two thousand miles above. 
This company has already in commission a fleet of fine boats, 
expressly built for the frequent shallows of the river, and yet 
strong, speedy and safe, and forming a regular, cheap and 
desirable line from the opening to the close of the business 
season. Some of the economies of this line are — first : time, 
with its usual incidents. One of the company's boats, the 
past season, made the trip to Fort Benton in nineteen days, 
and the round trip in the unprecedented time of forty-one 
days. This same boat, by the 20th of July, had made two 
round trips, and in all probability, will complete her fourth 
before she is obstructed by ice. Second : reduced insurance, 
freight and fare. It is obvious that the risk of navigating 
two thousand miles of river is less than that incurred when a 
thousand miles are added. Indeed, this is no small item, for 
tliree per cent, is the actual difl^erence. It is equally apparent 
that the carriers' charges must be less for a part than for all ot 
a route, but really the rates are reduced in a much greater 
rati(» than the distance, from the fact before stated, that boats 



242 tttrner's guide to the rocky mountains. 

are enabled to make three or four trips in a season from 
Sioux City, and only one from St. Louis. Third : that gene- 
ral advantage, so highly estimated by all shippers, of secur- 
ing, by competition, dispatch, care and attention, and that 
common safety against which underwriters do not insure. It 
is the intention of the North- West Transportation Company 
to keep pace with the increasing demands of trade by adding 
new boats to their fleet, as they are required, so that at no 
time will delays occur for want of the means of transporta- 
tion. "What is proposed will be done ; for the stockholders 
have the capacity, the enterprise and the capital ; and the im- 
mediate management is in the hands of Captain Joab Law- 
rence, whose distinguished energy, experience and probity 
are a sufficient guaranty for all that is promised. 

Something of the importance of this trade may be gathered 
from the fact that, during the season of 1867, the property 
sent to Montana alone aggregated over eight thousand tons, 
which was moderately valued at eight millions of dollars. 
The tonnage and the value have been greatly augmented this 
year, and will continue to increase, year by year, for an in- 
definite period. Its advantages, although manifestly great to 
the young frontier city, must, if properly appreciated, be- 
come still more important to Chicago. If this latter city is 
alive to her own best interests she will never allow St. Louis 
to regain the vantage-ground, over the loss of which she is 
still mourning. Little more than an accident has given to 
Chicago the opportunity to control this immense and new 
trade ; nothing short of determination, effort, and perhaps 
casual sacrifices, can perpetuate it. 

Sioux City is located on a fine dry prairie, in the rear of 
which runs a crescent of blufis of moderate elevation. The 



THE MISSOURI VALLEY. 243 

river front is sufficiently high to aiford an excellent levee, 
which is never inundated. The water is deep, constituting a 
tine landing, where steamboats of any size may harbor with 
safety. The business houses are commodious, and for the 
most part, built of brick, many of which, of fine quality, are 
manufactured in the immediate neighborhood. The streets 
are well laid out, wide, and generally improved. Many of 
the primitive dwellings have already given way to others of 
more modern styles, and new improvements are going on at 
every turn. On the adjacent bluffs are found many pleasant 
and sightly building spots where several fine homesteads have 
been erected, and others are contemplated. Business of all 
kinds is brisk and profitable. Manufactures are limited, but 
increasing. The schools are good, and most of the prevail- 
ing religious denominations have churches. The population 
is about 3000. The people are characterized for energy, 
industry and true western hospitality. These qualities, with 
the habit they have of minding their own business, have made 
many of them rich, and are generally considered an excel- 
lent investment for old residents or new-comers. Of all 
animals, drones are the most thoroughly despised, and the 
space allowed them is very limited. Sobriety, from a rule, 
has grown to be a habit. The city is the seat of justice for 
Woodbury county, which is one of the largest as well as one 
of the best counties of the state. The county contains eight 
hundred and sixty-four square miles, or 552,960 acres of land. 
The vallev of the Little Sioux is near the eastern boundary, and 
is very attractive as a place for settlement. The West Fork, 
Floyd rivers, and several tributaries of the Little Sioux and 
Missouri rivers, flow through and water the county. Thousands 
of acres of desirable lands are for sale, at reasonable prices. 



244 turner's gihde to the rocky mountains. 

Within two miles of the center of Sioux City, the Big 
Sioux, Perry Creek, and Floyd rivers empty into the Missouri. 
These streams run through valleys of fine land, and afford 
considerable water power. From the North-Western Hotel 
and the St. Elmo, stages leave daily for Yermillion, Yankton, 
Fort Randall, and all other points in Southern Dakota and 
Minnesota. 

The Pacific liailroad bill, which spoke into life the most 
magnificent enterprises known in this or any other country, 
provides for a branch from Sioux City on the Missouri river 
to a junction with the main line. Originally, doubtless the 
intent was a direct line across the river, and in Nebraska, but 
by a special act of Congress, a diversion was allowed on the 
Iowa side, to the present town of Missouri Yalley, near St. 
Johns. It is there, as before observed, to cross the river, 
and join the main line at Fremont. This road is called the 
Sioux City and Pacific, and may be considered as a collateral, 
but important branch of the great continental trunk. It has 
a splendid land grant, and entries can now be made by set- 
tlers on favorable terms and at low prices. The main ofl&ces 
of the road are at Cedar Rapids, where the Yice-President 
and Superintendent, W. W. Walker, resides. John I. Blair, 
of New Jersey, is President, and Mr. L. Burnett is Assistant 
Superintendent, having his ofiice at the Missouri Yalley 
Junction. 

The Dubuque and Sioux City road, after a series of efforts 
and failures, has passed into new hands, and will now soon 
be completed. Its western terminus is Sioux City, and it 
will open, for easy and successful settlement, the choicest 
part of northern Iowa. This road when completed forms 
another trunk line from Chicago to the Missouri, and if the 



THE MISSOURI VALLEY. 245 

capitalists and business men of that city know their own 
interests it will be in running order very speedily. 

The Sioux City and St. Paul Eailway is designed to be 
the Iowa or Missouri river end of the Minnesota Yalley road, 
and a section of the great route from St. Paul to a junction 
with the main trunk of the Union Pacific. The country 
through which it passes is represented as being very fer- 
tile, abounding in timber, well watered, and enjoying a 
climate which, for comfort and health, should make it the 
resort and residence of persons of delicate conetitutions, and 
those afiiicted with diseases, especially of a bronchial or pul- 
monary character. The distance from Sioux City to St. Paul 
is two hundred and forty miles, the whole route offering an 
easy grade, and ensuring speedy and cheap construction. It 
may well be remarked that the completion of this road will 
make Sioux City the great lumber market of the Missouri 
Valley. Minnesota lumber is the great product of that state, 
and forms a staple of inconceivable value, subject to an un- 
limited demand. The gold mines of California, Colorado, 
Montana or Idaho are not more prolific of wealth than the 
almost inexhaustible forests of Minnesota, Wisconsin and 
Michigan. Now, the lumber of St. Paul and Minneapolis is 
floated down the Mississippi to Lyons and Clinton, a dis- 
tance of nearly five hundred miles, and thence goes by rail- 
road more than three hundred and fifty miles to Council 
Blufis or Omaha ; thence up the river two hundred miles, 
over '' the grave of steamboats," to Sioux City, or else by 
rail to the Missouri Yalley Junction, and thence to the same 
place of destination by the Sioux City and Pacific road, a 
distance of over four hundred miles. The expense of this 
roundabout way is enormous, and equally oppressive to the 



246 ttjener's guide to the rocky mountains. 

producer and consumer. By this line, soon, no doubt, to be 
completed, the points of consumption are reached with facility, 
and at a saving of nearly six hundred miles of transportation. 
By the completion of these roads and of others which will 
be built, it is easy to see that Sioux City is destined to 
become a great railroad center in the Xorth-West, and a 
point of unusual conmiercial, manufacturing and agricultural 
interest in the country at large. 

But this is not all. A road is contemplated and will surely 
be built, connecting Sioux City with, the Union Pacific, at or 
near Columbus, Nebraska. This will bring Chicago, Mil- 
waukee and other important places in Wisconsin, Minnesota, 
and even soon the shores of lake Superior, in immediate con- 
nection, by the shortest possible route, with the great Salt 
Lake basin, California and the Pacific coast. It will also 
open a line of traffic and travel between the places and sec- 
tions mentioned and the upper Missouri with Dakota and 
Montana. Central in this magnificent system of intercom- 
munication sits Sioux City, receiving tribute and gathering- 
wealth and importance from all. 

It may be valuable to the immigrant and to others seeking 
locations to know that a United States land office is established 
at Sioux City, and that nearly two millions of acres of land in 
the district are open for entry at government prices. The 
county of Woodbury, together with the contiguous and sur- 
rounding ones of lola, Sac, Buena Yista, Cherokee, Plymouth, 
Sioux, O'Brien and Clay, form a breadth of country embrac- 
ing nearly one-eighth of the state of Iowa, and containing as 
good land as can be found in the world. In point of climate, 
salubrity, soil, markets, present and prospective resources, 
water, social, religious and educational pnvileges. domestic 



THE MISSOURI VALLEY. 247 

comforts and general facilities for all that enters into and 
makes up a high status of civilized life, this section of Iowa 
is unsurpassed, if indeed, it is anywhere equaled. 

Beyond Sioux City, in the far-off regions of Dakota, Mon- 
tana and Idaho, the reader must look for himself. As in all 
new countries, much is imperfectly known and more unknown. 
It is a vast territory for exploration. Thousands have visited 
it, spent their brief day there, and returned to add their mite 
to the general stock of wonders. We do not pretend to follow 
them, but wish those who do God speed and much prosperity. 



CONCLUSION. 



It is unnecessary to say to the intelligent reader who has 
glanced over the foregoing pages that the work which we have 
undertaken to perform is but imperfectly done. The field is 
large and diversified, and, as we have progressed, places and 
objects worthy of description and remark have accumulated 
as our space has diminished. Enough has, however, we think, 
been said in regard to the interesting route which we have 
traversed, to awaken attention and point to a more minute 
and thorough examination. The settlement of the West has, 
really, but just commenced. The improvements of the few 
past years are only so many indices pointing to much greater 
ones which are speedily to follow. Homes are to be estab- 
lished, cities built, wealth developed and fortunes realized all 
over those broad prairies and plains, and in the gold-bearing 
mountains. Hitherto the country has made our railroads; 
beyond the Mississippi the conditions are reversed, and rail- 
roads are making the country. That the immigrant has hard- 
ships to encounter, great labor to perform, and many discoui-- 
agements to meet, cannot be doubted ; but how light and friv- 
olous are all these, compared with the barriers which earlier 
settlers have overleaped and the promised success which awaits 
determined, energetic and intelligent effort ! 



ADVERTISEMENTS. 



MICHI6A1 SOUTHERH 



AND 



Lake Shore Railroad Line. 



THE GREAT THROUGH ROUTE 



BBTWJIKK tun 



E3JLST J^1<TJD -Vv^EISa?. 



All the pviucipal Railways of the New England and Middle States connect at 
Buffalo and Dunkirk with the Great 

l.j^k.b: shore roxjte 

FOR CHICAGO, 

Where Direct Connections are made with the 

Ghr-eat I*acific Route 
FROM OMAHA TO THE ROCKY MOUNTAINS. 



Passengers are assured that this is tiie only Lime running Throoom 
Trains between Buffalo and Chicago WITHOUT CHANGE. 

Eastward-bound Passengers should be sure and obtain Tickets via the 
MICHIGAN SOUTHERN & LAKE SHORE LINE, the great Theouoh 
\mkkican Route between the West and East. 

Always ask for Tickets via MICHIGAN SOUTHERN RAILROAD. 

F. E, MOUSE, Gen'l Bass, Agent, 

No. 56 Clark Street, Chicago. 
31 



250 turner's guide to the rocky MOrrNTAINS. 

mm PACIFIC RAILROAD. 



Great Platte Valley Route! 



Only ALL RAIL Route to the Rocky Mountains and the Mines! 



NOW OPEN FROM OMAHA TO BENTON ! 

Six Hundred and Ninety-five Miles west of the Missouri River. One 
Hundred and Twenty-five Miles additional track nearly ready. 



THE UNION PACIFIC RAILWAY 

Is now running Daily Trains from OMAHA to BENTON, 350 miles nearer the 

Gold and Silver Mines of 

NEVADA, IDAHO AND MONTANA 

than any other line ; passing through a country unsurpassed in Agricultural 
and Scenic Beauty, over a road bed equal to any in the United States. 

Trains of this Road connect with the Chicago & North-Western Rail- 
way at Omaha. Connections made with Wells, Fargo & Co.'s Overland 
Line of Stages at Cheyenne for DENVER, SANTA FE, and all other 
points in COLORADO and NEW MEXICO ; and at BENTON for SALT 
LAKE, SACRAMENTO, and all points in UTAH, NEVADA, IDAHO, 
MONTANA and CALIFORNIA. 

LA.RGJ-E AND COMIJMOIDIOXJS OA.RS. 
PULLMAN*8 PALACE SLEEPING-CARS ON ALL NIGHT TRAINS. 

First Class Eating Houses at convenient points along the Line. 



New York to San Francisco^ in Twelve Days. 

Omaha to Denver^ in Thirty six Hours. 

To Salt Lake Oity^ Four Days. 

To Sacramento, Eight Days. 

C. D. WHITCOMB, W. SNYDER, 

aea'l Tlckdt Agant. (Hn'l Sap't. 



ADVERTISEMENTS. 251 

THE 

Union Pacific Railroad Co. 

Offer a limited amount of their 

FIRST MORTGAGE BONDS 

AT PAR, PRINCIPAL AND INTEREST 

PAYABLE IN GOLD! 

These Bonds are for $1,000 each, and have Coupons attached. They have 
thirty years to run, and bear annual interest, payable on the first days of 
January and July at the Company's Office in the City of New York, at the 
rate of six per cent, in gold. 

At the present rate of premium on gold, these Bonds pay an annual income 
on their cost of 

And it is believed that they will soon be at a Premium. 

The Company have but a very limited supply of their Bonds remaining on 
hand — but it is expected that the first installment of the New Bonds, to be 
issued on that portion of the road to be completed this year, will soon be 
ready. 

Any subscriptions accepted to a greater amount than can be filled from 
Bonds now in the Company's possession, will be supplied from the New Bonds 
in the order in which they are received. 

The Company reserve the right to advance the price of their Bonds fo a 
rate above par at any time, and will not fill any orders or receive any sub- 
scriptions on which the money has not been actually paid at the Company's 
office before the time of such advance. 

Parties subscribing will remit the par value of the Bonds and the accrued 
interest in currency at the rate of six per cent, per annum, from the date on 
which the last coupon was paid. Subscriptions will be received in New 
York at 

The Company's Office, No. 20 Nassau Street, 

AND BY 

JOHN J. CISCO & SON, BANKERS, No. 69 Wall Street, 

AND BY THE 

Company's Advertised Agents throughout the United States, 

Remittances should be made in drafts or other funds par in New York, and 
the Bonds will be sent free of charge by return express. Parties subscribing 
through local agents, will look to them for their safe delivery. 

JOHN J. CISCO, Treasurer. 

N>w ToBK, October 2, 186S. 



252 TtJRNER's GUIDE TO THE ROCKY MOTJNTAmS. 

Chicago & ITorth- Western H'y, 




Coniprlsmg all the principal railroads from Chicago directlj' 
North, North-West and West. 

^^r\ PASSENGER TRAINS LEAVE CHICAGO DAILY (Sundays ex- 
2mJ\J cepletl), on the diflFerent Divisions of the Chicago and North-Wesi- 
ern Railway, for Dixori, Fulton, Clinton, Cedar Kapids, Boone, Sioux City, 

COUNCIL BLUrrS AND OMAHA, 

where connections are made with the Union Pacific Railroad (Main Line) for 
Cheyenne, Laramie, Denver, and all parts of Nebi'aska, Colorado, Utah, 
Montana, Idaho, Nevada, California and Oregon. 

The Chicago and North-Western Railway is the Only Direct Route to 
Freeport, Galena, Dunleith, Dubuque and Cedar Falls ; Janesville, Madison, 

PRAIRI£ BIT €A1IEN, I^A CRO|S}S£, ST. PAUL, 

Watertown, Berlin, Green Bay, Marquette, Hancock and Houghton; Kenosha, 
Racine, 

and all points in Iowa, Wisconsin, Minnesota, and the Lake Superior 
Country. 

Connections are made at Dunleith, Prairie du Chien and La Crosse (dur- 
ing the season of navigation), with a daily line of first class Steamers for all 
points on the upper Mississippi river. 

Baggage Checked Through to Destiuatioii. 

Superior Arranpfl Sleepiui Coaclies on all Nirtt Trains. 

Passengers for any point west or noj-th-weat of Chicago, to avail them- 
selves of the many advantages offered by this Conipany, should be particular 
to ask for Tickets via Chicago and North- Western Railway, which 

can be purchased at all principal Railroad Offices in the .South-West, and in 
Chicago at the Depots as above. 

B. F. PATRICK, J. P. HORTON, G. L. DUNLAP, 

Gen. Pass. Agent. N.-W. Pass. Ag't, Chicago. Qen. Sup't. 

TAMA CITY, |6WA~" ™"°^ 



Storage and Commission Merchant, 

And jUcater in all Ainds oj 

AGRICULTURAL IMPLEMENTS, GRASS SEEDS, &c. 

ALSU DEALER IN 

YAMA GITT, YAMA ©©TITISilfT, I©WA. 



ADVERTISEMENTS. 263 

Chicago & Uorth-Westsm U'y. 

SHORTEST AND MOST EXPEDITIOUS KOUTE TO ALL POINTS 

E^ST &c sotjth:. 

Express Passeuger Trains, composed of Coaches with all modern improve- 
ments, are run daily on the different Divisions of the Chicago & North- 
western Railway, in connection with 

All Trains from the West and North-West to Chicago, 

uiaking close connections with the Michigan Central, Michigan Southern, 
Pittsburgh, Fort Wayne & Chicago, Chicago & Great Eastern, Chicago & 
Alton, Illinois Central, and all other Eastern and Southern railroads, for 

DB.TROIT, DXJIQ-KIRK. 

BXIFJEPiSLLO, STJS. BJRIDGM:, 

QUEBEC, SPKI3SrC3-FIEI^r>, 

^WORCESTER, BOSTOlSr. 

NEW YORK, PHILADELPHIA, 

Pittsburgh, Harrisburgh, Baltimore, Washington, Cincinnati, Cairo, 
Wheeling, Louisville, Memphis, Columbus, St. Louis, Vicbsburg, 

SAVING TIME AND SECURING COMFORT AND SAFETY. 

Baggage checked through to all principal points, and no extra charge for 
transfer through Chicago. 

Passengers have choice of routes via Chicago, enjoying nil the modern 
improvements in use on first class railways. 

SUPERIOR ARRANGED SLEEPING COACHES ON ALL NIGHT TRAINS. 

Passengers for any point East or South should be particular to ask for and 
see that their tickets read " Via Chicago & North-Western Railway.' 

GEO. L. DUNLAP, General Sup't. 

B. F. Patrick, J. P. Horton, 

General Pansenger Agent. N'.-W. Pass. Agent, Chicago. 

TAMA CITY, IOWA. 





State Street y nort?f of HJfnpire !Slock, 
E. J. BROWN, Proprietor. 

The Traveling Public will here find good fare at moderate charges. Good 
Stabling and Livery Stable attached. Charges moderate. 



264 XmBNER's GUIDE TO THE KOCKY MOUNTAINS. 

SIOUX CITY AND PACIFIC 



Now completed from Missom-i Yalley to Sioux City, Iowa, 
and Fremont, Neb., on the U. P. K. R. 

Shortest and Q,uickest Route to Fort Benton, Western Iowa, 

Nebraska and Dakota, and 3 5 miles tlie Shortest Route 

to the Far West, saving Two Hours time 

over any other route. 

This Road forms a junction with the Chicago & North-Western Railway 

AT MISSOUBl VALLEY, 

Twenty Miles above Council Bluffs, and runs North through a Magnificent 
Valley of Land Seventy-five Miles 

TO sioTJx: oiTir, 

where it connects with the 

Splenilii Steam PacSets of tlie Nortb-f est Transportation Conmany 

For the Upper Missouri and Fort Benton. 

DAILY PASSENGER AND FREIGHT TRAINS 

Are run in close connection with Trains on the Chicago & North-Western, 

thus making a 

Continuous liine from Sioux City eastward; and to the Mountains 
by the Union Pacific Road. 

THE SIOUX CITY & PACIFIC RAILROAD 

Is thoroughly built, and, all its equipments are of the very best order. 

J. I. BLAIR, Pres't. W. W. WALKER, Sup't. 

S. BURNETT, Ass't Sup't. S. C. ANNABLE. 

Gen'l Fr't & Ticket Agent. 



ADVERTISEMENTS. 256 

SOUTH BEND, INDIANA, 

UNIVERSITY OF NOTRE DAME. 

M% ir@^©®^ ^Q)mmtWt> t^item^* 



THIS Institution, incorporated in 1844, enlarged in 1866, and fitted up 
with all the modern improvements, affords accommodation to five hundred 
students. Situated near the M, S. & N. I. R. R., it is of easy access from all 
parts of the United States. 

TERMLS : 

Matriculation Fee $ 5 00 

Board, Bed and Bedding, and Tuition, (Latin and Greek included,) 
Washing and Mending of Linens; Doctor's Fees and Medicine, and 

attendance in sickness, per session of five months 150 00 

French, German, Italian, Spanish and Hebrew, each 10 00 

Instrumental Music 12 50 

Use of Piano 10 00 

Use of Violin... 2 00 

Vocal Music 10 00 

Drawing 10 00 

Use of Philosophical and Chemical Apparatus 5 00 

Graduation Fee 10 00 

Students who spend their summer vacation at the College are charged 

extra 35 00 

Payments to be made invariably in Advance. 

Class Books, Stationery, &c., furnished at Current Prices. 

No expenditure for Clothing nor advances for pocket money will be made 
by the Institution, unless an equivalent sum of money be deposited with the 
Treasurer of the College. 

Each Student, on entering, must be provided with 

6 Shirts. 2 Suits of Clothes for the Winter. 

6 Pocket Handkerchiefs. 2 *' *' ** Summer. 

6 Pairs of Stockings. 1 Overcoat or shawl. 

6 Towels. 1 Table-knife, 1 fork. 1 tea-spoon. 

6 Napkins. 1 Hat, 1 Cap. 1 Table-spoon. 

o Pairs Boots or Shoes. Combs, brushes, &c., for toilet. 

The first Session begins on the first Tuesday of September, 
the second on the 1st of February. 

For further Particulars, address, 

REV. W. CORBY, 0. S. C, Pres't. 

N. B. Express charges on parcels to the Students should be pre-paid. 



256 



rURNER'p aUIDE TO THE ROCKY MOUNT A INK. 




isroTR.E iD^^iynE, izsriDi^nsr^ . 



Is situated on a beautiful drive, two miles from the thriving city of South Bend, and one miU* 
from the University of Notre Dame. It is conducted by the SISTERS OP HOLY CROSS, ladier- 
whose talent and energy, together with the cordial co-operation of the public, have secured to 
Indiana one of the most desirable Institutions for the education of young ladies in the United 
Stateo. 

THE LOCATION 

Is one most fortunately chosen, the rapid and health-imparting waters of the St. Joseph River 
encircling the eminence on which it stands, and the wooded banks Rffordlng a pleasant theater 
for vigorous sports and delightful rambles. 

THE GROUNDS 

4re charmingly laid out, and ornamated with summer-houses, fountains, shrines and statuary, 
presenting a landscape to extort the admiration of the most indifferent. 

The seclusion from the town— so promotive of study — is more than compensated for, by the 
great attention paid to healthful amusements, which is a strong feature of the system observed 
at St. Mary's ; indeed no expense is spared to render the young ladies cheerful and happy wh!k 
pursuing their classical course. 

THE BUILDINGS 
Are large and well appointed, heated throughout by steam, furnished with hot and cold baths, 
and perfectly ventilated. They are also tastefully adorned with choice paintings, statues and 
oratories, the handsome Music Hall being supplied with harps, guitars, and thirty ulanos, at! 
kept in constant use. 

THE PLAN OF TEACHING 
With the Sisters of Holy Cross, is to incorporate the accomplishments upon a sound moral and 
scientific basis, thus to render them but the just expression of an interior culture, rather than a 
gilded mask to conceal a total deficiency of sound education, which we too frequently find them. 

LITERARY AND SCIENTIFIC LECTURES 

Are afforded the pupils through the year by accomplished professors from the University o! 
Notre Dame. Excellent facilities are also enjoyed for the study of Latin, while the modern 
languages receive due attention. French and fxermau being the native tongues of several of 
the teachers, they are spoken in the Academy, and fluency encouraged by stated Conversn 
tions held in the hours of recreation. 

The corps of Musical Instructors is unsurpassed, and many pupils enter for the sole object 
of acquiring this branch. Distincuished Professors are employed in Vocal Music, as .<ilf«o in 
the essential art of FUocutinn. 

THE DISCIPLINARY GOVERNMENT 

Is mild, and conducted wiih such energy and vigilance as always to secure perfect order and 
regularity. The young ladien are kept within the line of duty more by a sense of honor and 
justice than by fear of punishment. Pupils become the children of the House, th« Sistsrii 
watching over their be.st interests with the solicitude of mothers. 

Non-Catholic pupils are received, and are only required, for the sake of uniformity, to assist 
at the public and regular exercises of Religion with propriety and decorum 

A daily line of carriages is established between the Academy and the city of South Bend. 

ADDRESS, NOTKE DAME, INDIANA. 



ADVERTISEMENTS. 



257 



A. A. ALLEN, - PROPRIETOR, 

Corner Michigan and Water Streets, 

SOUTH BEND, - - INDIANA. 

Stage-House for Niles, Berrian and St. Joseph, Mich. ; I'lyniouth, Marshall 
County, and Walkerton, Ind. 

Omnibus to and from the Cars, or any part of the City. 
Notre Dame Hack leaves twice a day. 






^3 ^^t 



«^ 



9 



IIOIITII-WESItflli [EElSIOn MANyFACTUIIIlie CO, 

SOUTH BEND, INDIANA, 

We hnvc always on hand Fine, Coarse and Medium Excelsior, for Mattresses 

and Upholstering purposes, 
W. L.. OHUUCH, Agent, CHICAOO. 



m\ 




[OPPOSITE DWiriHT HOUSR,] 



I. SKINNER, Proprietor, 

No. 54 Michigan Street, South Bend, Indiana. 

SOUTH BEND, INDIANA, 

M.inniactiiro Sash, Blinds, Doors, Moiildiiii^s, Picture Frames, Banisters, 
Brackets, House Trimmiuj^s, &c., 

AND SELL AT WHOLESALE AND RETAIL. 
ORDKRS SOLI CITE J3. 



•^ Mm. ic* 



'*v< ^*« 



MANUFACTURERS OF FURNITURE, 

SOUTH BEND, INDIANA. 

BLHEAUS. WASH STANDS, TABLES, BEDSTEADS (or Latest Styles), 

at lowest Manufacturer's Prices. 

NO LUMBElt USED THAT IS NOT THOROUGHLY SEASONJBD. 

ORDERS SOLICITED. 



258 turner's guide to the rocky mountains. 

CHICAGO, ILL. 



IsAAO Mter, President. 
S. A. Walker, Secretary. 



H, M. HiGoiNS, Treasurer. 
Chas. p. Jackson, Supt, 



£L BORADO WINE COMPANY, 



a 

« 

a 
u 
a> 
u 

3 

o 

a 
1^ 







No. 122 South Clark Street, Chicago, III. 

Vineyard in El Dorado, El Dorado Co., California. 

Make and Sell White, Red, Hock, Sherry, Port, Angelica, Muscatel, 
Sparkling, Catawba, Muscat, Isabella and Eureka Wines and Grape Brandy. 



ifkfi 




L 




Successor to PIKE & CAVANiSTA, 
IManuLfactn-rer^ audi 13ealei-t^ in 



9 



Farnitare, Bedding and Upftolstery Goods, 

No. 85 Randolph Street, Chicago. 

J. H. PIKE, Agent. 

Agents for Folsom & Chuech's Excklsior Manupacturinq Company, 

South Bend, Ind, 



Office: Room 13 Insurance Buildings, 



Rurus Rose. 



No. 160 and 162 fVashinf/toii Street, 

CHICAGO, ILL. 



Ca88 ChATMAX. 



ADVERTISEMENTS. 269 

CLINTON, IOWA. 

FRANK H. WOODWORTH, 

Agent and Dealer in Heal Estate, 

CLINTON, IOWA. 

Every description of Real Estate bought and sold. Have for sale thou- 
sands of acres of choice farming lands. Will pay Taxes anywhere within 
the state. 




CLINTON, iOWA. 

B. F. CHILDS, - PROPRIETOR. 

This is the largest and best house in the city. It is pleasantly located in 
full view of the river and the railroad bridge. 



The best arranged Sash ami Boor Factory in the Xorth-l¥est, 
and the largest in the state. 



s. Xj. toll <& CO., 

Manufacturers of and Dealers in Sash, Doors, Blinds, Mouldings, Brackets, 

Balusters, Stair Railings, &c. Office, No. 100 Second St. Factory 

Twelfth Avenue, between First and Second Streets, 

CLINTON, IOWA. 

Special advantages otfered to the trade. 



c. LA-MB & sons', 

llanafacturers of and Dealers in 

GaiiE-Sawfii LDinlier, Latli, SMiIes. Sasli M Doors. 

A good assortment of Flooring, Siding and Finishing Lumber always on 
hand. Second and third Mills south of railroad bridge, 

CLINTON, IOWA. 

Cars loaded in yard free of charge. 



360 turner's oriDK to tiik Roc^i^ mohntaixs. 

LYONS, IOWA. 



Notary Public, Real Estate & Insurance Ag't. 

Property leased and Heats collected ; state, count y and local taxes paid ; 
conveyancing ; and Abstracts of Title procured. United States Claim Agent. 

No. 71 Main St., LYONS, IOWA. 

Rbfbrekobs.— Ezra Batcheller, Milwaukee, Wis. Benjamin Lake, Lyons, lown. 
n. S. BALCH. A. I). CI.AUK. r. K. P. ItAf.CH. 

B^XjGH &C OO., 

Boot and Shoe Jobbers, 

No. 51 Main St., LYONS, IOWA. 

Manufactory. Grovelaud, Mass. 

A. C. -J. KAUFMAN, 

Wholesale nni Retail Dealer in 

&ranfl, Spare anfl Upriilt Pianos, Oiiaiii; and Melodeoim. 

I3ra.ss, German Silver and Reed [nstrunients in great variety and of all 
qualities and prices. 

Warerooms, Nos. 4 and 5. 

Randall House Block, LYONS, IOWA. 



CEDAR RAPIDS, IOWA. 



WM. B. LEACll ct CO., 

'Pr'oprieforx <,/' 

Flouring and Lumber Mills, 

CEDAR RAPIDS, IOWA. 



VDVERTISEMENTS. 261 



UPTON, CHAMBERS & CO., 

JKanufaciurers oj 

Lumber and Farm Wagons, 

CEDAR RAPIDS, IOWA. 

We manufacture our goods from carefully selected material, employ none 
but experienced workmen, and give careful attention to every part of our 
work. 

The largely increasing demand for our Wagons has made us feel confident 
that we are manutacturing an article that gives satisfaction to our customers. 

Orders addressed to us will receive prompt attention. 

AOKIOTJLTXJR^A.L l^TAI^EHOXJSE. 

(Establlahed in 1859.) 

F. J. UPTON «&; CO., 

>VholeeiHle aud Uetail Uealei-N iu 

Reapers, Mowers, Threshers 

WaioDs, Plows, auil all itinfls of Slaiidarfl Farm Machiuery, 

CEDAR RAPIDS, IOWA. 

Proprietors of Tobias' celebrated Patent Open Ditching Machine for the 
state of Iowa. 

Are engaged exclusively in this branch of business, and from long expe- 
rience in the trade, and close attention to the wants of our customers, hope 
to merit a share of patronage. 



262 turner's guide to the rocky mountains. 

BLAIRSTOWN, IOWA. 
TANCEMAN, BOOK ^ YOUNG, 

Dealers in all kinds of 

Dry Goods. Clotliii, Hats & Caps, Boots & Slioes, firoceries, Crockery, 

stone and Wooden Ware, Yankee Notions, Ae, 

BLAIRSTOWN, BENTON CO., IOWA. 

All kinds of Country Produce taken in exchange for goods. Have also a 
Warehouse and Elevator on railroad track. Cash paid for all kinds of Grain 
and Live Stock. 

Fi)mmif iTamla H@mii) 



BLAIRSTOWN, IOWA. 

H. & L. GUND, - PROPRIETORS. 

General Staffe Office. Good Stables attached, 

TOLEDO, IOWA. 

Real Estate Agents, 

TOLEDO, TAMA COUNTY, IOWA. 

Z/ands Sought a7id Sold, and Taxes ^aid, 

G. R. Steublb. C. B. Bradshaw. 

Attorneys and Connselors at Law, 

TOLEDO, TAMA COUNTY, IOWA. 

J. H. STBUBLS, Cotinty Treasurer. 3. S. STSITBLE, Attorney at Law 

Land Apnts, Conveyancers, and notaries Public, 

TOLEDO, TAMA COUNTY, IOWA. 

Special attention given to Buying and Selling Real Estate, Paying Taxes, 
and making Abstracts of Title. Terms reasonable. 



ADVERTISEMENTS. 

BELLE PLAINE, IOWA. 



F. G. Clabk. 



263 



W. A. Tkwksbury. 



Attorneys and Counselors at Law, 

REAL ESTATE AGENTS AND NOTARIES PUBLIC, 

Belle Plaine, Benton C/Ounty, Iowa. 

Lands Bought and Sold, Taxes Paid, Titles Examined, Absti-acts Fuinielied, 

Sm.f &c. 

(SUCCESSOR TO s^orrj^ <& co.,) 

^V'lIOL.KSiklL.K JLNT> RETAIL DEALER IN 



Y 



^^ i\i\^^. 1^ -It ^ ^©ip'^p 



Ready-made Clothing, 
jSoots and Shoes , Groceries, Queensware, dc, dc, 

BELLE PLAINE, BENTON COUNTY, IOWA. 
V^ Cash. paid, for Grrairx and Co-aixtry Prodiaoe. "W^ 

T^V^OaOOD Sd CO., 

PROPRIETORS OF BELLE PLAINE ELEVATOR, 





.A-KTJD X3£3.A.X<SX%S Il^^■ 



Grain and Agricultural Implements, 
MARSHALLTOWN, IOWA. 




,yi^>l'R THE ^AILfiOAT) IDE-pOT, 

MARSHALLTOWN, - - IOWA 

Livery Stable in connection with this house. 

Stages leave Daily for Iowa Falls and Eldora. 

Sample Rooms in business part of town, to which we carry Passengers 

FREE. 

House lately refitted and refurnished. 

RAILROAD PASSENGERS DINE HERE. 



264 turner's GFIDPJ to the ROrivY \rOUNTAINS. 

E, G. Sleight. N. S. Kbtchtjm. 

Agricultural Warehouse and Seed Store, 

Wholesale Warehouse near Depot. Retail Store cor. Main and First 8t8. 

E. G. SLEIOHT, 

Storage, Forwarding & Commission Merchant, 

AND DEALER IN GRAIN, WOOL AND LIVE STOCK, 

MARSHALLTOWN, IOWA. 

Office, No. 1, Station. Street. 

B. W. Johnson. A, F. Habadon. 

JOHNSON & HAKADON, 
Attorneys & Counselors at Law, 

REAL ESTATE AGENTS AND NOTARIES PUBLIC, 

]tIarstaalltown. ::i[ar4iihall County, Iowa. 

Lands Bought and Sold, Taxe.s Paid, Titles Examined and Abstracts Fur- 
nished, and all matters pertaining to Real Estate promptly attended to. 
Practice in the State and U. S. Courts. 
Especial attention given to Conveyancing. 

Keferenoes— Gov. Samuel Merrill, of Iowa; Ex-Gov. Wm. M.Stone, of Iowa; First Na 
tional Bank, Marshalltown, Iowa; President and Faculty of Harvard Law School ; Hon. T. A. 
Jenckes, M. C. 

ID- -\Kr. oxjisr3sri3M*o:Ei.A.is^L^ 

GANG -SAWED LUMBER, SHINGLES, 

LATH, SASH, DOOUS, cV:c. 

TSltLSt Ya.rd near Marshall AVoolen IVtillai, 
Jf^ ^SJff:>i LZ TO V 'JV; lO WA . 

0. U. W00DBU2Y, Pr3St. T. B. ABELL, V. Prest. 0. W. FBACKZB, Cash. 

THE 

First National Bank of Marslialltown, Iowa. 

DIRECTORS. 
H. E. J. BOARDMAN, THOS. B. ABELL, O. M. WOODBURT, 

OEO. GLICK, DAVID PARRET. 

Prompt attention given to Collections. Taxes paid in all Counties ia 
Central Iowa. 



ADVERTISEMENTS. 265 

STATE CENTER, IOWA. 



By R. H. BXJLLOCK, 

Sla^^ Center, Marshall Comity, Iowa. 

Livery Stable attacl)ed. Patronage solicited and Hatisfaction miaranteed. 



Notary Public and Real Estate Agent, 

STATE CENTER, MARSHALL COUNTY, IOWA. 

Will examine Titles, Furnish Abstracts, Pay Taxes, Redeem Lands sold 
for Taxes, Buy and Sell Real Estate, individually or on Commission. 

WARREN WALKER, 

state Center, Marstiall County, lon^a. 

Insurance promptly effected in some of the best Fire, Life, Accident and 
Live Stock Companies in the Union. 

WHOLESALE DEALERS IN 
TIN, SHKiGT IRO]Sr ^ND COI'i'ER ^W^^RE, 



FKA 

WARRB 

QKO 



<RBN WALKER, V State Ceiiter, Marshall County, Iowa. 

. W. DKAN. ) 



B^A^I^ISrS Ssz "W^^^X^KIEIi 



y 



Produce Commission Merchants, 

AND DEALERS IN 

AGRICULTURAL MACHINERY, 

SX^VTE CENTEIK,, JVI^RSH^LL CO.. lO^V^. 

The highest Cash price paid for Grain and Live Stock. Elevator corner 
of Cayuga and First Streets. 

32 



266 turner's guide to the rocky mouishains 

NEVADA, IOWA. 



9 

War Claim and Ht^al Estate Agent, 

>EVAI>.\, STORY COUNTY. IOWA. 

CHAUNCEY WELTON, Proprietor. 

Free Bus to and from Cars. Good Yards and Stabling for Forty head of 
Horses. 

Greneral Real Estate Argents, 

jvun4f)A, sro^r coujvty, iows±. 

Will attend to Buying and Selling Land, Paying Taxes, Furnishing Abstracts, 

&c., &c. 

OF-JEPICK IN COURT HOXJSK. 

T, C. Davis, Co. Treasurer. M. C. Allkx, Co. Surveyor, 

T. J. 20SS, NoUry PubUc. L. lEWIH, Att'y at Law. 

JROSS & IRWTlSr, 

Attorneys at law and Dealers m Real Estate, 

lSrE^^^I>.A^ STORY COUNTY, IOT\^-A.. 

W. a. ALLBN, late Co. Surveyor. J. A. FITCHPATSICZ, Co. Clerk. 

ALLEJV 4- FITCHPATRICK, 



m 



NEVADA, STORY COUNTY, IOWA, 
Buy and Sell Real Estate, Pay Taxes, Examine Titles, and furnish Abstracts. 
Mr. Allen being an experienced Surveyor, and a resident of the county 
for twelve years, we can guarantee accuracy in looking up and showing lands. 
We have the only perfect Abstract of Titles in Story County. 



ADVERTISKMEM.T8, 26T 

AMES, IOWA. 



MARSHAL, DRAKE & RAINBOLT, 
Real Estate and Collecting Agents, 

A X D 

,7V. A. RAIJ^BOLT, 
ISJ^otary jPiiblic and A^ttorriey at La^v, 

A.1MICS, STOK.Y COXJIsTXY, IOT\^A. 

Milton Evans. Walter Evans 

GRAIN AND PRODUCE MERCHANTS, 

And Dealers in 

IPLOXJR, S^LX. LIIVtE, CEJMElSrX, PXJIVIPS, &o , 
A.nieSy Story County, Iowa. 



MONTANA, IOWA. 

A, J. WESTCOTT, Proprietor. 

Stage OflBce for Des Moines and Fort Dodge. 

Billiard Hall and Barber Shop attached. 

Baggage carried to and from the Cars free of charge. 

IVES & AVILMOT'S 

PILiOE ilLLlAi© MILL, 

Corner of Eighth and Allen Sts., 
MONTANA, BOONE COUNTY, IOWA. 

One Carom Table, One 15-ball Pool Table. Three 4-pocket Tables. 
All Phelan and Collender Tables. 

3M ^ 31^ M M W ^ ^ ^ 

And Chicago & North-Western Railway DIning-Hall, 
H. B. MIJVIER, Proprietor. 

Stages leave I>aily for Des M^oiixes and. JP^ort Dodge. 



2(}S turner's guidk to ihk rocky mountains. 

ii- HCXJIDSOISr^ 

c^4llornrr tV Cciinsr/c/- at .L(Us' fS' H.^^i^ [Est ate afl^ent^ 
Mioisrx^^i:^^^, BOONn: county, io^\^^. 

HtcKtiKKNCRS — J. B. Hurlburt, Treasurer of Boone Co. , Iowa; Kd. B. Warner, Treasurer of 
Whiteside Co., lUinola; S. M. McCreti & Co., Com. Merchuuts, Chicago, Illinois; Firet National 
Hauk, Morrison, Illinois; A. K. Welles, Banker, Montana, Iowa. 

BOONESBORO, IOWA. 



J. W. Barniiart. D. L. Wilbur. 

BOONE COUNTY LAND AGENCY 



Boonesboro, Boone County, Iowa. 

Lands Bought and Sold, Titles Examined, Abstracts of Titles furnished, 
Taxes paid for non-residents, and a general Agency business transacted. 
Particular attention given to correspondence. 

C. Logan. 0. Logan. T. N. Canfield. 

^^THOLKSALE .A.I^^r) R.KTA.IJL, DEALERS IN 

GROCERIES OF ALL KINDS, 

And }f?iolesale dealers in Coal, 

West Side of Public Square, Boonesboro, Boone Co., Iowa. 

C. W. WILLIAMS, 

ATTORNEY AT LAW, NOTARY PUBLIC, 

Alnd Real Estate Agent, 

boonesboro, boone county, low^^. 

jr. F. E003L.EST0 isr, 

ATf ©KME¥ AT LA 

Kotarg fublic and I^and Ji-g^nt, 

BOONESBORO, BOONE COUNTY, IOWA. 



ADVERTISEMENTS. 



W. HARRIS, 



269 




And Dealer in Country Produce of all Kinds, 

Main Street, JN ox-tli-TVest corner of Fublic Square, 
BOONESBORO, BOONE COUNTY. IOWA. 



MOINGONA, IOWA. 



ii®iar€®if4 



JACOB LEPPLA, Proprietor, 

MOINGONA, BOONE COUNTY, IO\\^A. 

House uew aDd newly furnished. Good Stabling and Livery Stable 
attached. 



JEFFERSON, IOWA. 




By AJVJs'IS BROTHEBS, ® 

JEP^ITERSOIV, GJ-RBENK COUNTY, lOT^A. 

Livery Stable connected with house. Free Bus to and from all Trains. 
This house is new and newly-furnished, and no pains will be spared to 
make it a first-class stopping-place for travelers. 



H^RVJEY JPOTTER, 

Connty Judge, 

Attorney at Law, SolJcitor m Cliancery, 

AND NOTARY PUBLIC, 

T;^ill practice in aU the Courts of the State. 
Taxes Paid, Titles Corrected, Abstracts furnished, and all other profes- 
sional business pi-omptly attended to. 

Particular attention given to Collecting. 
Office in Court-House, 



ATTORNEY AT LAW AND LAND AGENT, 

Je^'erson, Greene Cout?/j\ loH^a. 

Practices in District, Circuit and Supreme Court.s : Buys and St-lls Heal 
Estate, P<iys Tax«s. makes Collections, c'vcc. 



2(0 TrrpNER's guide to the rocky mountains. 

W\ B. MAYES, Attorney at Law, 

JKF'F'IGRSON, ORKKISTE COUNTY, lO^WA. 

Lands Bought and Sold, Tiiles examined, Abstracts furnished, Taxes paid 
for non-residents, and all Law and Collection business transacted promptly. 
Prompt attention given to Correspondence. 
N. B. — Forty Thousand Acres of Land for Sale in Greene County. 

CARROLL CITY, IOWA. 
G-ILLEY &~WILKINSON, 

BANKERS AND LAND AGENTS, 

CARROLL CITY, CARROLL COUNTY, IOWA, 

Buy and Sell Exchange, Collections made. Lands Bought and Sold, Taxes 
paid, and prompt attention given to Land Agency and Banking business. 

Rbfkrbnces — Fifth National Bank, Chicago, 11!. ; Wilkinson k Co., Bankers, Syracuse, 
N. Y. ; First National Bank, Morrison, HI ; Rodgers, Patterson & Co., Bankers, Sterling, 111. 

Wholesale and Retail Dealer in 

Saginaw and Green Bay Lumber, 

Latli, SMnglEs, Do^rs, Sasli, Asriciiltiiral Iipleineiits, Wagons, &c,, 

j>it the Chicago Z^umbe?' Tard, Ca7'roll City, Iowa. 

J. E, griffTth^ 

^ttovttfit and ^ottusidot at Jair, 

AND REAL ESTATE AGENT, 

Will buy and Sell Lands on Commission, Pay Taxes for non-residents, 
furnish Abstracts of Title, and do any and all business connected with Land 
or Collection Agencies. 

Good references given if desired. 

7. ELWOOD, Co. Mgo and Secorder. JOEK Z. DEAL, Sep. fiecorddr. 

REAL ESTATE] A(4EN1.^S, 

Ca?'roll City, CarroH Connty, Iowa. 

Real Estate Bought and Sold on ConmHssinn : Taxes I'aid and Lands 
redeemed from tax-sale. Will furnish Abstract of Titles, (S:c. 

Over Fifty Tliousand Acres of Land in Carroll County for sale. 



ADVERTTRElVrETsTTS. 271 

DENISON, IOWA, 



PROVIDENCE WESTERN LAND CO. 



-AND- 



American Emigrant Company, 

J. W. DENISON, Agent, 

DENISON, IOWA. 

Thirty thousand acres of choice prairie and timber lands, in Crawford 
county, Iowa, for sale. These lands are situated along the line of the Chi- 
cago &' North -Western Railway. Upon the north and west side they extend 
b?ck in different localities from one to sixteen miles, from Denison to Charter 
Oak, on the west bank of the East Soldier. They are rolling, well watered 
and healthy. The soil is a dark loam, with a due mixture ot sand and clay, 
being adapted to the raising of stock or grain, and favored with a choice of 
markets, with flouring and saw mills near at hand, and woolen manufactories 

within twenty miles. . *-i e nr* 

Terms.— Prairie from $3.00 to $10.00 per acre, and timber from $15.00 
to $20.00, and on time to suit purchasers. In some cases longer time is 
given, and no advance payment, but with annual interest. 

REFERRSCBS.-Morris, McHenry & Co., Denison, Iowa; Gov. E. Dyer Pres't Pror. West. 
Land Co., Providence, R. I. ; J. C Savory. Gen. Sup't Am. Em. Co., Des Moines, Iowa; Gen. 
G. M. Dodge, Council Bluffs, Iowa. _^__^_^___»____^_— — — . 

DUNLAP, IOWA. 

All kinds of Real Estate 

DUNLAP, HARRISON CO., IOWA. 

Has on hand fine farming lands and town property, for sale or rent. 



WOODBINE, IOWA. 

WM. aTjones, 

Dealer in P. Shuttler's Chicago Wagons, Brown's Corn Planters, Buckeye 

Reapers and Mowers, Marsh Harvesters, Plows, Cultivators and 

all Standard Machinery. Salt. Lime, Cement and 

Stucco always on hand at wholesale and retail. 

WOODBINE & MISSOURI VALLEY JUNG., IOWA. 



27*2 turner's mnnK to tiik RorivY mountains. 




"B)B 




T 




Gr. W. Pugsley, Proprietor, 

G^OOID STA.BI^IlSrG^. 

B. C. ADAMS & CO., 

Dealers in alt kfuds of 

Agricultural Implements & Farm Machinery 

WOODBINE, IOWA. 

The latest improvements and inventions always on hand. Also Agent for 
the celebrated Star Wagon. Cash paid for Wheat, Corn and all kinds of 
Farm produce. 

LOGAN, IOWA. 

Agricultural Implements, Wagons, Lumber 

SALT, LIME, STUCCO, Sec, 
LOGAN, HARRISON COUNTY, IOWA. 

Cash paid for all kinds of Grain. 

Licensed Cattle Broker, 

LOGAN, HARRISON COUNTY, IOWA. 

Dealer in Blooded Stock of all descriptions. 

E. ].. KELLF.Y. G. T. KELLEY. 

Dealers in 

Drugs k Medicines, Dye Stuffs, Oils, Paints 

( HKMM AIS. NOTIONS ANI> I ANtV (;OOI)S. 

LOGAN, HARRISON CO., flOWA. 



ADVEKTISEIMENTS. 273 



DEALERS 11^ 



Grain and Live Stock, 

LOGAN, HARRISON COUNTY, IOWA. 

fi-^sF" Warehouse on railroad track, east of Depot. *==@|[ 

MAGNOLIA, IOWA. 

H. 0. HARSHBARGER, 

Real Estate Agent, County Recorder, 

AND NOTARY PUBLIC, 

MAGNOLIA, HARRISON CO., IOWA. 

Will pay Taxes, furnish Abstracts, and transact all business with care 
and dispatch. 



Real Estate ^geiit 

AX1> CJLKRK OF THK I>ISTKI<JT t'OFRT. 

MAGNOLIA, HARRISON CO., IOWA. 

Will buy and sell Real Estate, pay Taxes, furnish Abstracts, and transact 
all business in hi^ line with fidelity and dispatch. 

RUDASILL, WOOD & LOW, 

WJiolesaW' and Kctail I)eal<'rs in 

Staple and Fancy Dry Goods, 

Hardware, Crockery, Groceries, &c., 
MAGNOLIA AND LOGAN, HAR^IISON COUNTY, IOWA. 

Also dealers in Wagons, Plows, and all kinds of Agricultural Implements. 

RAYMOND'S HOTEL 

William T. Raymond, Proprietor, 

MAGNOLIA, HARRISON COUNTY, IOWA. 



Hack leaves each day for Logan, on the North-Western R'y. 



274 turner's gtttde to the rocky mountains. 

Brainard's Hack Line and Livery Stable, 

Geo. R. Brainard, Proprietor. 

MAGNOLIA, HARRISON CO., IOWA. 

Makes daily trips between Magnolia and Logan, on tlie N.-W. R'y, con- 
necting with Mail Trains East, and West, and carrying the U. S. Mails. 

G. F. Waterman, Attorney. S. Devell, Ccnnty Surveyor. 

Attorneys and Counselors at Law, 

SURVEYORS, GENERAL LAND AGENTS AND CONVEYANCERS, 

MAGNOLIA, HARRISON COUNTY, IOWA. 

MISSOURI VALLEY, IOWA. 

W. S. MClJKinE. A. T. BIRCHARD. 

McBRIDE &, BIRCHARD, 

Wholesale and Retail Dealers in 

Drags, Paints, Oils, Dye Stuffs, 

PATENT 3IEDICINES, PERFITMERY, Ac, 

Missouri Yalley aud New Jefferson, Iowa. 

P. D. MICKEL, 

AND REAL ESTATE AGENT, 

ONAWA, IOWA. 



Drugs, stationery, Books, 

TOILET AND FANCY ARTICLES, 
ONAWA, IOWA. 



ADVERTISEMENTS. 275 

R. G. Fairchild. G. a. Dotjqlas. 

FAIRCHILD & DOUGLAS, 

DEALERS IN 

fry Goods, Clothing, Groceries, Teas, Hardware, Crockery, 

Hats, Caps, Boots, Shoes, Driisrs, Medicines, Oils, Dye Stuffs, &c. 
ONAWA, MONONA COUNTY, IOWA. 

C. H. HOLBROOK. B. D. HOLBROOK. 

Real Estate and Exchange Office, 

HOLBROOK & BROTHER, 

OW^WA, - IOWA. 

Taxes Paid. Lands Located, and Titles searched. 

Refer to Merchants' Savings, Loan and Trust Co., Chicago; Third National 
Bank, New York. 

CJlia^rles j^tkins, 

JDEAZEM IN 

Reafly • Mafle ClotliD^, Geitleiiiei's FDriisMiiE Mi, 

Hats and Caps, Boots and Shoes, Dry Goods, 

Groceries , fat'ni*, Oitx , G/nss, t&c. 

ONAWA, - - - IOWA. 

Elijah Peake. D. J. Rockwell. 

f 
ONAWA, MONONA COUNTY, IOWA, 

PEAKE & ROCKWELL, - - PROPRIETORS. 

A Billiard Hall is Attached to this House. 

SIOUX CITY, IOWA. 

H, P. BooGE, St. Louis. J. E. Boogb, Sioux City. .T. I. Boogb, Sioux City. 

H. D. BOOGE & COMPANY, 

Wholesale and Fetail "Dealers in 

Staple and Fancy Dry Goods, Clothing, 

Qneeiiswaro, Groceri«'s. Boots and Shoes, 

f/f/t/i nnfl Cffi}s , ifr., iC-r. 

Masonic Block, Corner 3d and Pearl Streets, 

SIOUX <'1TY. - lOW.V. 



276 turjter's guide to the rocky mountains. 

MoDOUOALL, MILLARD & CO., 

And Dealers in 

BE]r)s _A.isriD BEiDiDiisra-, 

SIOUX CITY, IOWA. 

G. K. McDougall. A. J. Millard. L. £. Skinner. 

Wholesale and Retail Dealer in 

Dry Goods, Reaiy-Made ClotMni Boots aid Sloes, 

And Groceries and Provisions. 

rEAUL STREET, NEAli THE LEVEE, 

SIOUX CITY, 10 ^y A. 

TKKMS. - - <'ASH. 

JEFFERS & HAMILTON, 

Real Estate Brokers & Insurance Agents 

PEARL STREET, opposite Tootle & Charles, 
HIOXJX CITY, IOWA. 

Will buy and sell Lands and City Property on Commission in Iowa and 
Nebi*aska ; pay Taxes for Non-Residents ; examine and furnish abstract 
titles, and make entries of Government Lands. 

Gp:oroe Weare. John P. Allison. 

WEAEE & ALLISON, 

BiWKEItS, REAL ESTATE & TAX-PAYIIIE AGENTS, 

DKALKKS IN 

Foreign and Domestic Exchange, Government Securities, Land Warrants, 55c. 

JSIOTJX CIT^^. IOV^\A.. 

REFERENCES. 

National Park Bank, New York. Spencer, Vila & Co., Boston. 

Lunt, Preston k Kean, Chicago. Clark Brothers & Co., St. Louis. 

COLE & HEDGES, 

1>EAI,EKS IN 

Mowers, Reapers, Plows, Caltivators, Drills, 

And all kinds of Agricultural Implements and Farming- Machinery. 

Cash paid for all kinds ol' fanners' produrr. 

SIOUX CITY, lOAVA.. 



ADVERTISEMENTS. 27T 

T. J". i^xisri^j^xiD, 

Wholesale and Retail Dealer in 



Pearl, between 2d and Sd Streets^ 

®, Be ^ m. 9. mMm&mm^ 

T^^ MOLES ALH: 

Groceries, Boat Stores and Provisions, 

SIOUX cm, ' - IOWA. 

THOS. J. STOZS^E, 

Banker and Real Estate Agent, 

SIOUX CIXV, XOVJA. 

Dealer in Exchange, Gold Dust, Government Donds, Warrants, i^e. Pays 
taxes and locates lands. 

Refer to Ninth National Bank, New York, or Second National Bank, Chicago. 



1. BI^M® H@M]L 



C. K. SMITH, Proprietor. 

SIOUX CITV, IOWA. 

This House is new and newly furnished, and is intended to be first class in 
all its appointments. 

R. J. Percy. A. M. Rowk. 

PERCY & HO^VV^E, 

General Dealers and Comffiission Merchants, 

SIOXJX CITY, lOTTA.. 

Will Store and Forward Goods to the Mountains. 



2TS TrKXKK's GUIDK TO ITU: KCM KV MOUNTAINS. 

E. G. BuKKAM. Jk. E. H. Bucknam. 

BURK AM & BUCKNAM. 

Real [stale, Insuiance, Collectian and Genefal Agents, 

{SIOXJX CIT^^, IOWA. 

Will buy and soil land and city property on commission, pay taxcM and 
make entries of Govej-iimcnt Land. Collections and Genei-al Agencies solicited. 

REFKRENCt:S.— Robt. Reid, Manager Marine Bank, Chicago, 111. ; E. I. Tlnkham, Cashier 
Second National Bank, Chicago, 111. ; Lawrenceburgh National Bank, Lawrenceburgh, Ind. ; 
Burkam & Co., Bankers, Cincinnati, Ohio; E. G. Burkam, Banker, New York City; Frontier 
National Bank, Eastport, Maine. 

W. H. LIVINGSTON & CO., 

Dealers in 



Clothing, Boots Si Shoes, Hats, Caps, and Furnishing Goods, 
PEARL ST., SIOUX CITY, IOWA. 

^roOTLE & CHARLES, 

)i''hotesale heaters in 



i;ia?'0 HDKJi) /iOV^^^XOX^ 



Dry Goods and Queensware. 

SIOUX CIT^vr. lOWA^. 

MILTON TOOTLE, St. Joseph, Mo. JGEIT H. CHARLES, Sioux City, Iowa. 



GOEWEY & M'KEWON, 

1 



Dealers in 

9) 



9 
Pearl St., Sioux City, Iowa. 

Wholesale and Retail Dealer in 



IK 



■X3) 



m 



5SS» 



Cutlery, Stoves, Agricultural Implements, 

Britannia., Japanned and Tin-ware. 

PEARL ST., between 2d & 3d, SIOUX CITY, IOWA. 



ADVEBTISEMEN18. 279 

Hardware, Iron, Hails, Glass, 

Tools of all kinds, Saddleiy Hardware, Leather. 
AjSTD >Sk.GM?,ICXJI^TTTR,yVl^ iM:piL.K:vrKjv'rs. 

SIOUX CITY, IOWA. 

j^ K. TJ 3sr -^ j^ 3sr, 

Wholesale and Retail Dealer in 

IMPORTED AND DOMESTIC 

Whiskies, Brandies, Gins, Wines, &c. 

Second St., between Pearl and Douglas, SIOUX CITY, IOWA. 

C. K. HOWARD. VV. M. STITES*. 

Wholesale and detail Dealers is 

Drugs, Medicines, Paints, Oils, Glass, Dye Stuffs 

Tobacco, Cigars, Pipes, Toilet and Fancy Articles, 
SIOUX CITY, IOWA. 

North-Western Hotel, 

Second St., between Pearl and Douglas, SIOUX CITY, IOWA. 

JAMES MOLONEY, Proprietor. 

Boarding $2.50 per day. 

Stage.s leave this house daily, for Vermillion. Yankton, Fort Randall, and 
all other points in southern Dakota. 
Good Stabling attached. 



COUNCIL BLUFFS, IOWA. 

I 









280 turner's guide to the rocky ^[OU.NTAIXS. 

RIDDLE, FULLEll &. CO., 

Ki'ctiliors and Jobl>er!s in 

IMPORTED WINES & LIQUORS, 

BOURBON AND RYE WHISKY, 

JPalnier\s Blocks 44^ Lower Broadivay, 

courrciL Biurrs, iowa. 

Thos. Officer. W. H M. Pusey. 

BANKERS, COUNCIL BLUFFS, IOWA. 

K, E] m K rt E jsr C K S : 



Metropolitan Bank, New York. 
Third National Bank, Chicago. 
Allen, Copp iV Nisbet. St. Louis. 



N. Holmes & Son, - Pittsburgh. 
Gilmore, Dunlap & Co,, Cincinnati. 
Johnston Bros. & Co., Baltimore. 



D. C. Bloomek. J. D. Edmundson. 

ATTORNEYS, BROKERS AND REAL ESTATE, 

Government Claim and Insurance Agents, 
OFFICE m BROADWAY, - COUNCIL BLUFFS, IOWA. 




Particular attention given to Payment of Taxes, and Purchase and Sale of Real Estate. 

N. L. THATCMEl!. ISAAC M I'l.lIOLLAND. 

WliolcKHle ]>ealorK in 

Flouf, Grain, Provisions, Hides, Furs, Wool, k, 

FORWARDING & COMMISSION MERCHANTS, 

ADVANCES MADE ON CUNSIGNMEMTS. 

KILDAY & GUITTAR'S 

iiif iiiLi iiLyiii iill, 

25 Main and 26 Pearl Street, 
COUNCIL BLUFFS, - - IOWA. 



ADVERTISKIVreNTS. 281 



ETMLF iiif HEii, 

Hats, Caps, Furs and Furnishing Goods, 

rillLLirS BLO( K, 103 BROADU AY, 
COUNCIL BLUFFS, - ■ IOWA. 

J M PAT. TVr E ¥? 

423 Broadway, Council Bluffs, Iowa, 

Lamls and Town Property bouglit awl ^old on (Commission. Money iuvcstc"! 
carefully for Eastern parties in Lands or Town Property, or on Mortgage, 
with ample security, at 10 per cent, interest. Has been in this business for 
14 years in this place, and is well posted in lands and town property. 

OMAHA. NEBRASKA. 



WHOLESALE DRUGGIST 

Awl Dealer in 

latent ^Uditiin^s and grmigi^ts' ^nndries, 

PIOJVEEIt BLOCK, 

ISO Farnham St., Omaha, Nebraska. 

F. D. COOPER. A. A. COOPER 

F. D. COOPER & CO., 

Maanfaetursrs and Jotters of the celebrated 

COOPER WAGON & AGRICULTURAL IMPLEMENTS, 

All kinds of Farming Machinery Sold on Commission. 
A grood Stock ol" Bug-§rieK and CarrSajsres always on hnnrl. 

2 36 HARN EY ST., OMAHA, NEBBASKA. 
CHAMPION S. CHAS£\ 

ROOMS 8 S 9 TEMPLE PLACE, 

Eesideuce cor. Thirteenth and Dodge Sts., - OMAHA, NEBRASKA. 

Wisconsin. — The Judges of the Supreme and Circuit Courts. 

Chicago. — General J. H. Howe, .Vttorney for Chicago it North-Western Railway. 

St. Louis. — Colonel J. B. Modlton, Chief Kngineer, N. M. R. R. 

New York. — Colooul H. N. Twomblv, !• Park Place. 

Washington, D. C— Chief Justice S. P. Cbase. 

83 



282 TURNER'S GUIDE TO THE ROrK\ MOUNTAINS. 

DEWEY, TRIMBLE k CO., 



'Wliolcsalp 1>or1i>i*n in 



187 & 189 Farnham St., Omaha, Nebraska. 
^ I. M. & A. J. FRANK, 

Wholefialc aiKl Rotail 

Clflthiiii &BEts' FiruisMiiE Goois, Blankets, Buck Gloves, 

Rubber and Oil Clothing, Boots and Shoes, Pocket Cutlery, ^c, Sec, 

WHOLESALE KOOMS \V STAIUS. CASH I'AIU FOK KAW H KS AM> KOBKS. 

178 Farnham Street, Omaha, Nebraska. 
Dealers in 

Pianos, Cabinet Organs, Melodeons, Music, &c., 

OMAHA, NEBRASKA. 

All kiuUs of latest Sheet Music "always on hand. 

H. K. SMITH. A. r. llOI'KIN8. 

SMITH & HOPKINS, 

Agents for Mlssoiiri River Packets, aM Dealers in Coal and firaln, 

OFFICE 491 THIRTEEyTH ST., 

Between Farnham and Harney, - - OMAHA NEBRASKA. 

W. R. BABTLETT. ROLLIN C. SMITH. 

Seal ^state probers anb iSentral ^anb ^gents, 

OVER OMAHA NATIONAL BANK, 
Cor. Ihniqlas and Thirteenth /SY«., Omaha, AcOraska, 

will attend to the Purchase and Sale of Real Kstate, Payment of Taxe?, Oonveyaucing, <fcc. 
Special attention given to investments for non-residents. Ail business promptly attended to. 

Rkfebescks.— Hon. C. C. Trowbridge, Pre.s't Dot. <fe Mil. R U ; lion. H. P. Baldwin, Pres't 
Second Nhtioual Bank; Wni. A. Howard, Ex-.Mpniber of Oongresis ; David Preston & Co., 
Bankers, Detroit, Michigan; and Omaha National Bank, Omaha, Nebraska, 



adtt;rti8emekts. 



283 



Omaha 




Liiferf Stable, 



G. W. HOMAX, Proprietor. 

Corner JTarney and ^Sf ft Sis., - . OMAHA, NEBRASKA. 

The best of Horses and Carriages always on band. 
Particular attention given to the Sale of Stock. 



L. WOOD WO H!TH, 



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And WAOOIV M:ATERIA.L oI-AII Descriptions, 
228 Douglas Street, Omaha, Nebraska, 

A. J. SIMPSON, 



Keeps on hand 

EXPRESS WAGONS 

AND — 

BUGGIES. 




Always for Sale 

CARRIAGE MATERIAL 

-- AND — 

TRIMMINGS. 



Also CARRIAGE TAlNTINtr AND TRIMMING, 

Fourteenth St., bet. Douglas and Dodge, Omaha, Nebraska. 

(Establislied 1 8 5 S .) 



'•P 



DEALERS IN AGRICULTURAL IIVIPLEIVIENTS, 

ANQ GEN^iu Gcr^ivriyirssroN (yi:E,R:e,H;Aiv.Ts 

For the Purchase and Sale of all kinds of 

Farm Macliinery and Merctiaiiflise, Asricnllnral Impleineiits, 

fiite, W00I, is^mmx, itoto, %mt, pair, f mb, 

AND BUILDERS' MATERIAL GENERALLY, ^ 



284 turnkk's ouidp: to ihe kocky mountains. 



Wholenale and Ketfail 



iEILEi in riNE lOLiTHlii, 

TSTo. «lJ5i DOTJOX^AS ST., 

Corner Thirteenth Street, - - OMAHA, NEBRASKA. 

Branch House of T. W. Sprague & Co., Cincinnati, 0. 

ISVKON REKD. LEWIS H. REKIJ. 



.tTPa m. 



Real Estate Agents and Conveyancers, 

513 FOURTEENTH STREET, OMAHA, NEBRASKA. 

The oldest established Real Estate Agency in Nebraska. Keep an Accurate 
and Complete Abstract of Titles to all Real Estate in Omaha and Douglas 
County. 



197 Douglas St., cor. 12th, Omaha, Nebraska. 

HENRY L. LATEY, Proprietor. 

UAKUFACTUSEB OF ALL EIITDS OF CF.ACKEIIS, BBEAD AND COITFECTIOHEBY. 

Orders solicited and promptly filled. 

A// Goods deJivered at depots J^ree of Charf/e. 

C. H. NICHOLS & CO., 

Wholesale and Retail Sealers is aad Manufacturers of 

Ladies' and Cents' Fm«! Boots and Sbo0s; 

ALSO A Fiiii. siipi»i;v or 

FRENCH, ENGLISH & AMERICAN CALF & KIP SKINS, 

52'il Thirteenth Street, 

Corner Douglas, - - - OMAHA, NEBRASKA. 

MILLS & McALISTER, 

Wholesale and Eetail Dealer: in 

FINE CLOTHING FOR MEN AND BOYS, 

Also Gentlemen's FURNISHING GOODS in full variety. 

iiAR4j;f:sT HOI I si: i!« Tin: city. 

229 Douglas Street, ■ - OMAHA, NEBRASKA. . 



/ 



ADVERTISKMENTS. :>S§ 

KELLOM & CLARK, 
GENERAL INSURANCE AGENTS, 

Fire, Marine and Life. 
OMAHA, NEBRASKA. 



ST. jaMiEs mm. 

First Class House. 

CORNER lOTH AND FARNHAM STREETS, 

o:m:j^h:^, - ztrsBi^^SK:^. 

Hestauiant connected. Day Boarders accommodated. 

ABBOTT A 1:0., Proprietors. 

1). D. VV. Abbott. 0. T. Higgins. W. P. BeaumoDt. L. S. Currier, 



AMERICAN VAPOR STOYE MANUFACTORY, 

I'Uder the St. Jaiues Hotel, 

CORNEK lOTH AND FARNHAM STS., 

OMAHA, - - NEBRASKA. 

ORDEKS KILLED AT SHORT NOTICE. 

D. D. W. ABBOTT & CO., 

D. D. W. Abbott. 0. T. Higgins. W. P. Beaumont. F. W. Currier. 



FREiVlONT, NEBRASKA. 



H. M xj isr a E K, 



— DEALER IN — 



Drugs, Faints, Oils and Dye kStuiik, Toilet iSoaps, 
Toilet Articles and Perfuies, Glass Ware aud Oiieeiisware, 

E. H. KOGKR8 & CO., 
BANKERS, 

Attorney at Law and Real Estate Agent, 

F&EMONT, DODGE CO.. NEli. 

Psctlcular atteuliuii puhl tu CulivctiuOH, Dxamiuatluu of XUles uud iJBjiutr Tiu«s. 



28G tukner's guide to the rocky mountains, 

NYE, COLSON & CO., 



-DEALERS IN — 



Flour, Grain, Agricultural Implements, 

Pine Lumber, Shingles, Lath, Doors, Sash, &c., &c. 
JVear JR. B. nepot. FREMONT, NEB. 

GEORGE F. BLANCHARD & CO., 

WHOLESALE AND RETAIL DEALERS IN 

Hardware, Cotlery, Pumps, Glass, Hails, Stoves, &c., 

■ Manufacturers of Tin, Sheet Iron and Copper Ware, 
Corner Broad and Fifth Sts, FREMONT, NEB. 

MEDINA LIYERY AND SALE STABLE, 

T03I WILSOIV &^ OO., Proprietor?!*, 

Horses and Carriages to let at reasonable I'ates 

Parties wishing Conveyance into the Country will save 
money by calling at the Medina Stable. 

Arthur Gibson. F. W. Gidson. 

A. & F. W. GIBSON, 
Books, Stationery and News Depot, 

Sixth between E. & F. Sts., FREMONT, NEB. 

Dealers in Coufectionery, Canned Fruits, Cans, Tobacco, ('igars. l*ibes, 
Yankee Notions, Toys. Blank Books, Cutlery, &v. 

WIIOLKSALK AND RKTAII- DKALKR IN 

ilwmmm 



(iaeensware, (iiass Ware, Furoiture ami Agricultural Impieiueuts. 

SIXTH STREET, - - FREMONT, NEB. 



ADVERTISEMENTS. 28T 

S. W. Hayes. .1. S. McClart. 

ia:-A.-yE!S & CO., 

WHOLESALE AND RETAIL DEALERS IN 

Fruits, Stationery, Boots, Shoes, &c., &c. 

Cor. Sixth and E Sts., - - FREMONT, NEB. 



I MEM ON T NEBRASKA, 

This House is pleasantly located, entirely now, well furnished, 
and the largest between the Missouri River and Salt Lake. 

FREMONT MILLS. 

Custom and MercJiaiit Millers and Dealers m 
FLOUR AND GRAIN. CASH PAID FOR WHEAT. 

Near the Railroad Depot, - - FREMONT, NEB. 

cr^nv^ES EC. 3m:oe, 

— DEALER IN— 

J3oots and- ©lioes, 

HEA.TS J^ISIT) CA^FS. 

Sixth Street, near Broad, - - FREMONT, ifEB. 

WHOLESALE AND KETAIL DEALERS TN 



Corner Broad and Sixth Sts., - - FREMONT, NEB. 

Also, North Bend, Nebraska. 



•288 TfTRNER's firn)!-: to ttik RonKV motxtat^'s. 

CHEYENNE, W. T. 

\V. H. iMlLLKB. THUS. .1. smEET. 

Attorneys at Law, 

Principal Office at CHEYENNE, Wyoming Territory, 
Piactice in all the Courts ol" this and the adjacent Territoi-ies. 
Particular attention given to Criminiil matters. 

CHARLES McDonald, 

Storap, Forwarflini aofl Cfliiiiimsioii Mercliaiit, 

Slonc Block, rirc I'roof W:ir<'li4»ii»e, 

Corner 20ih and O'N'eil Streets; Also, Corner Ifitli aod Kdciy, 

<'JJETEN\E, W. T. 

Wholesale and Retail Urorery House, and Goneral Outtitting Kstablishmcnt. Rectifier and 
Xiauufactiirer of Whisky and Pure Spirits. 



iii.®!)"^!?^]^ :Bm©®® C& ©® 



2> 



JB J^ jSJ -KZ JBj JrCr S J 

Corner Sirleenth and JEdrfy Sfreeig , 

CHEYEWK, - WYOMING TERRITORY. 

Prompt attention given to collections in Wyoming, Colorado and I'tah. 

CONNECTING BANKS: 

First, National Bank of Omaha, Neb. Colorado National Bank, of Denver, Col. 

Rocky Mountain National Bank, of Central City, Colorado. 

J. W. FRENCH & CO., 

Storage and Commission Merchants, 

ANP DEALERS IN 

fytnnher, (irttrerirs, Provisiona, Baron, Flour, Grain, &c. 

AIpo, Agents for M»>rchantp Union Express Co.'s Fat>t Freight Line?; Fire t'roof Warehouse, 

Cheyenne, Wyoming Territory. 

Rbfbrencks— First National Bank, Denver, Col. ; Geo. T. Clark <t Co., Bankers, Central 
City, Col. ; Rollers A Co., Bankers, Cheyenne ; Omaha National Bank, Omaha, Neb. ; Kountze 
<fc Co., Bankers, Cheyenne; Gen. A, h. Chetlain, Salt Lake City. 

-r. R. WHITr,UKAl>. AV. W. OOPbKTT. 

Attorneys, Solicitors and Counselors. 

CHEYENNE, WYOMING TERRITORY. 



,1'!!!""°^ CONGRESS 

If ill?' 





017 167 734 8 # 



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